(Topic ID: 194656)

Fuse 702 on WOZ keeps blowing


By WesleyCowan

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 23 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by wtatumjr
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

-1
#1 1 year ago

Been over and over the various items involved in Fuse 702 looking for a short or the cause of it blowing. I've run out of ideas and patience for the night. Spent several hours on this one problem today. I have been having lots of trouble with my WOZ over the past few months and spent lots of time and money.

I now wish I had waited and bought a later production game. I've grown weary and discouraged by spending time working on my HUO WOZ way more than playing and enjoying it. I'm seriously considering selling it and eventually seeing if I can find one way more reliable and less frustrating for me. My was built 9/11/13.

-2
#2 1 year ago

July 2014 build here. This one is the least reliable NIB I've experienced. I can't imagine what it would be like if I actually played it a lot.

Oh well. Have you put in a ticket? JJP tech support is really good, although they seem more stretched thin lately.

Did you deal with the inductor recall problem on the power supply board? I wonder if this is somehow related?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/yikes-woz-fried-lots-of-smoke-where-do-i-start

#3 1 year ago

I recently wrote a thread thread called "why I'm immensely frustrated with my WOZ ECLE." It had settled down after the last fix mentioned on that thread. But problems have returned and this is the 3rd weekend in a row a problem has cropped up. I'm dreading working on it as fuse that blow often involve shorts or things I struggle to figure out.

I'm seriously considering selling it which will mean a big loss with all the time and parts paid for to keep it going the past 3.5 years. Some stuff happened while still under warranty but eh vast majority was afterwards. A few things were caused by my own stupidity. Very sad as I love the game when it's working but now every time I turn it on I wonder if something will already show a problem or later after I've played a few games. Last night I lost it and screamed at the machine as I've put so many hours both recently including this month alone and to have a new problem sent me over the edge.

I quantify that this is not an anti-JJP rant. I own TH and would love some day to own a DI and maybe another WOZ if I can find one that's reliable. I just feel I've had really bad luck and it's been by far the least reliable pin and most frustrating to work on since being in this hobby for 10 years. Bought a later production TH and has been solid so far for 8-9 months since I got it.

#4 1 year ago
Quoted from WesleyCowan:

Been over and over the various items involved in Fuse 702 looking for a short or the cause of it blowing. I've run out of ideas and patience for the night. Spent several hours on this one problem today. I have been having lots of trouble with my WOZ over the past few months and spent lots of time and money.
I now wish I had waited and bought a later production game. I've grown weary and discouraged by spending time working on my HUO WOZ way more than playing and enjoying it. I'm seriously considering selling it and eventually seeing if I can find one way more reliable and less frustrating for me. My was built 9/11/13.

Should be pretty straightforward. Does it pop immediately? The suspects are all coils or magnet coils:

Witch Top magnet
Witch bottom magnet
Top lanes magnet
Right orbit magnet
monkey magnet

Castle flipper coil
Munchkinland flipper coil
left sling coil
right sling coil
top lanes sling coil

Power off then check them with an ohm meter and see if any of the above-listed coils are shorted or have much lower resistance than others. If so, that one is likely your problem. You can access the castle flipper coil without removing the mini-pf through the hole in the main pf underneath.

If you don't know how to use an ohm meter, power off, then you can mark (DEFINITELY MARK!) the coil leads so you can put them back on right and then remove one set of coil leads at a time (insulating them with electrical tape while off so they don't hit something while loose and cause a bigger problem) then power on and play the game and see which one eliminates the problem when disconnected. Repeat until the problem one is isolated.

Stuff happens. A Ghostbusters we got in the subway coil died almost immediately. I used one on hand to get it going, but Stern sent a replacement I held on to. I just used that replacement and it blew out a board transistor - the coil was shorted, brand new. If you own pins, you eventually become a pretty good tech. It's too expensive to pay someone else to maintain them for you.

#5 1 year ago

Wife found a piece of rubber on Munchkin flipper that had moved and therefore it was hitting the switch w/o the rubber on. However, on turning the game on it didn't really fix the issue. Fuse 702 doesn't blow but the red led doesn't light up nor for the two fixes below it. Check all 3 fuses and they're fine. Still no magnets or Munchkin or castle flippers, etc. working. Went over lots of other wires and coils but probably need to what vireland suggested as the next option.

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from WesleyCowan:

Wife found a piece of rubber on Munchkin flipper that had moved and therefore it was hitting the switch w/o the rubber on. However, on turning the game on it didn't really fix the issue. Fuse 702 doesn't blow but the red led doesn't light up nor for the two fixes below it. Check all 3 fuses and they're fun. Still no magnets or Munchkin or castle flippers, etc. working. Went over lots of other wires and coils but probably need to what vireland suggested as the next option.

Wait, so 702, 707, and 708 fuses are testing good (did you test it outside the holder, by itself? In circuit can give wrong results.) and yet you have no power to the magnets and coils below that? In coil test with the cutoff switch pulled out (so the game doesn't cut power), NONE of these fire:

Witch Top magnet
Witch bottom magnet
Top lanes magnet
Right orbit magnet
monkey magnet

Castle flipper coil
Munchkinland flipper coil
left sling coil
right sling coil
top lanes sling coil

#7 1 year ago

Yes all of that's correct Including testing the fuses out of circuit. Weird as it used to be the very sec I hit the own switch 702 would blow with a big pop. Now none blow they don't the leds light up and all of the problems with the things you mentioned not working. In test mode the only thing that shows up as working is the right orbit magnet and I think the top lanes magnet although I'm very tired and I might be wrong about that. Thanks fro your suggestions and replies!

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from WesleyCowan:

Yes all of that's correct Including testing the fuses out of circuit. Weird as it used to be the very sec I hit the own switch 702 would blow with a big pop. Now none blow they don't the leds light up and all of the problems with the things you mentioned not working. In test mode the only thing that shows up as working is the right orbit magnet and I think the top lanes magnet although I'm very tired and I might be wrong about that. Thanks fro your suggestions and replies!

Definitely figure out which items on the list I gave are working and which aren't. That might give a clue about what's happened.

#9 1 year ago

If none of the lights on the fuses are on, yet all the fuses are testing good, your problem lies upstream. Check continuity from the board to the transformer. There are two connection points where wires could be not making contact (pin got pushed out of the connector or connector is slightly unplugged). With the POWER OFF - Check Wire to Board connection on the IO board. Check the wire to wire connection through the chassis. If that still isn't the problem, check to make sure your interlock switch is plugged in and working properly. If the switch in the coindoor isn't working, you could have flakey high power.- I'll check back on this thread when I get home tonight, or you can PM me.

Eric - The guy who designed the JJP electronics platform.

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from Hogbog:

If none of the lights on the fuses are on, yet all the fuses are testing good, your problem lies upstream. Check continuity from the board to the transformer. There are two connection points where wires could be not making contact (pin got pushed out of the connector or connector is slightly unplugged). With the POWER OFF - Check Wire to Board connection on the IO board. Check the wire to wire connection through the chassis. If that still isn't the problem, check to make sure your interlock switch is plugged in and working properly. If the switch in the coindoor isn't working, you could have flakey high power.- I'll check back on this thread when I get home tonight, or you can PM me.
Eric - The guy who designed the JJP electronics platform.

Wife and I methodically tried all your recommendations and thanks so much for those! Unfortunately the issue remains. The only thing I noticed that seemed weird is that in opening the machine coin door the red leds on the fuses took a very long time and slowly faded out. In past I seem to remember they would go off immediately. When closing the door they came back on immediately. Thanks for taking the time to write to me!

#11 1 year ago
Quoted from WesleyCowan:

Wife and I methodically tried all your recommendations and thanks so much for those! Unfortunately the issue remains. The only thing I noticed that seemed weird is that in opening the machine coin door the red leds on the fuses took a very long time and slowly faded out. In past I seem to remember they would go off immediately. When closing the door they came back on immediately. Thanks for taking the time to write to me!

Did you check all the coils in the coil/magnet tests? Which fire, which don't?

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from WesleyCowan:

Wife and I methodically tried all your recommendations and thanks so much for those! Unfortunately the issue remains. The only thing I noticed that seemed weird is that in opening the machine coin door the red leds on the fuses took a very long time and slowly faded out. In past I seem to remember they would go off immediately. When closing the door they came back on immediately. Thanks for taking the time to write to me!

I wouldn't be concerned with this at all.

When the power is remover (by opening the door for example) the large filter caps discharge slowly and so you see the LEDs stay alight and fade away.

When the power is applier (by closing the door) the power is applied IMMEDIATELY to the power supply and the filter caps charge rapidly so the LEDs appear to light instantly.

All perfectly normal behavior and very unlikely to be connected to your current issue.

#13 1 year ago

I would check the surface mount diodes on the Io board that feed the coils driven by the fuse

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from Ballypinball:

I would check the surface mount diodes on the Io board that feed the coils driven by the fuse

Thanks for suggesting that they all test good.

#15 1 year ago
Quoted from WesleyCowan:

Thanks for suggesting they all test good.

#16 1 year ago
Quoted from Homepin:

I wouldn't be concerned with this at all.
When the power is remover (by opening the door for example) the large filter caps discharge slowly and so you see the LEDs stay alight and fade away.
When the power is applier (by closing the door) the power is applied IMMEDIATELY to the power supply and the filter caps charge rapidly so the LEDs appear to light instantly.
All perfectly normal behavior and very unlikely to be connected to your current issue.

Thanks great info and appreciate you responding as this eliminates concerns with that.

#17 1 year ago
Quoted from WesleyCowan:

Wife found a piece of rubber on Munchkin flipper that had moved and therefore it was hitting the switch w/o the rubber on. However, on turning the game on it didn't really fix the issue. Fuse 702 doesn't blow but the red led doesn't light up nor for the two fixes below it. Check all 3 fuses and they're fine. Still no magnets or Munchkin or castle flippers, etc. working. Went over lots of other wires and coils but probably need to what vireland suggested as the next option.

they only light up with coin door shut?

#18 1 year ago

Have you checked the bridge rectifier prior to the fuse

#19 1 year ago
Quoted from Ballypinball:

Have you checked the bridge rectifier prior to the fuse

Yes and it tests as working.

#20 1 year ago
Quoted from WesleyCowan:

Yes and it tests as working.

Did you run all the coil tests to see which coils/magnets work and which don't?

#21 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Did you run all the coil tests to see which coils/magnets work and which don't?

None of the coils/magnets on those fuses fire in test mode.

#22 1 year ago
Quoted from WesleyCowan:

None of the coils/magnets on those fuses fire in test mode.

So you verified that the top lanes magnet and right orbit magnet also are not working? Prior you had said they may be working.

Next I think you just need to verify that the coils are getting power, so you can decide if this is a power issue or a control (transistor) issue.

#23 1 year ago

Check all the wires to the coils for abrasions. My trough coil wire was too close to the plunger so when it fired it shorted. If you replace the fuse and the game boots up but blows when the ball enters the trough this might be the case.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 165.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pixels Arcade Games
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
ModFather Pinball Mods
$ 114.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside