July 2014 build here. This one is the least reliable NIB I've experienced. I can't imagine what it would be like if I actually played it a lot.

Oh well. Have you put in a ticket? JJP tech support is really good, although they seem more stretched thin lately.

Did you deal with the inductor recall problem on the power supply board? I wonder if this is somehow related?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/yikes-woz-fried-lots-of-smoke-where-do-i-start

Should be pretty straightforward. Does it pop immediately? The suspects are all coils or magnet coils:

Witch Top magnet
Witch bottom magnet
Top lanes magnet
Right orbit magnet
monkey magnet

Castle flipper coil
Munchkinland flipper coil
left sling coil
right sling coil
top lanes sling coil

Power off then check them with an ohm meter and see if any of the above-listed coils are shorted or have much lower resistance than others. If so, that one is likely your problem. You can access the castle flipper coil without removing the mini-pf through the hole in the main pf underneath.

If you don't know how to use an ohm meter, power off, then you can mark (DEFINITELY MARK!) the coil leads so you can put them back on right and then remove one set of coil leads at a time (insulating them with electrical tape while off so they don't hit something while loose and cause a bigger problem) then power on and play the game and see which one eliminates the problem when disconnected. Repeat until the problem one is isolated.

Stuff happens. A Ghostbusters we got in the subway coil died almost immediately. I used one on hand to get it going, but Stern sent a replacement I held on to. I just used that replacement and it blew out a board transistor - the coil was shorted, brand new. If you own pins, you eventually become a pretty good tech. It's too expensive to pay someone else to maintain them for you.

Wait, so 702, 707, and 708 fuses are testing good (did you test it outside the holder, by itself? In circuit can give wrong results.) and yet you have no power to the magnets and coils below that? In coil test with the cutoff switch pulled out (so the game doesn't cut power), NONE of these fire:

Witch Top magnet
Witch bottom magnet
Top lanes magnet
Right orbit magnet
monkey magnet

Castle flipper coil
Munchkinland flipper coil
left sling coil
right sling coil
top lanes sling coil

Definitely figure out which items on the list I gave are working and which aren't. That might give a clue about what's happened.

If none of the lights on the fuses are on, yet all the fuses are testing good, your problem lies upstream. Check continuity from the board to the transformer. There are two connection points where wires could be not making contact (pin got pushed out of the connector or connector is slightly unplugged). With the POWER OFF - Check Wire to Board connection on the IO board. Check the wire to wire connection through the chassis. If that still isn't the problem, check to make sure your interlock switch is plugged in and working properly. If the switch in the coindoor isn't working, you could have flakey high power.- I'll check back on this thread when I get home tonight, or you can PM me.

Eric - The guy who designed the JJP electronics platform.

Did you check all the coils in the coil/magnet tests? Which fire, which don't?

I wouldn't be concerned with this at all.

When the power is remover (by opening the door for example) the large filter caps discharge slowly and so you see the LEDs stay alight and fade away.

When the power is applier (by closing the door) the power is applied IMMEDIATELY to the power supply and the filter caps charge rapidly so the LEDs appear to light instantly.

All perfectly normal behavior and very unlikely to be connected to your current issue.

I would check the surface mount diodes on the Io board that feed the coils driven by the fuse

they only light up with coin door shut?

Have you checked the bridge rectifier prior to the fuse

Did you run all the coil tests to see which coils/magnets work and which don't?

So you verified that the top lanes magnet and right orbit magnet also are not working? Prior you had said they may be working.

Next I think you just need to verify that the coils are getting power, so you can decide if this is a power issue or a control (transistor) issue.

Check all the wires to the coils for abrasions. My trough coil wire was too close to the plunger so when it fired it shorted. If you replace the fuse and the game boots up but blows when the ball enters the trough this might be the case.