(Topic ID: 358297)

Funhouse tunnel kickout switch

By mizzou

23 days ago

Topic Stats

  • 2 posts
  • 2 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 23 days ago by PinRetail
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    #1 23 days ago

    Hi all,

    Trying to replace the switch on the subway tunnel kickout. The replacement switch is 5647-12693-25. The original was not responding along with the bottom pop bumper so I put in the replacement switches. Pop bumper works now but the kickout witch is still not functional. Everything else on that circuit is working and the coil for the kickout works. Thoughts?

    #2 23 days ago

    Your new switch should click when the ball rolls on the actuator (sometimes the actuator needs adjustment, but I don't think that's your problem...), and be connected to the green-black and white-grey wires.

    Go into switch test.

    I take an alligator clip and clip one side to the white-grey wire, and touch the other end of the alligator clip to the green-black wire. If it makes a sound, something is strange with your switch wiring, or the soldering. This is where I'd find a bad microswitch, but that isn't your problem here. Odds are, shorting the wires together won't make a sound.

    The reason that shorting the wires together won't make a sound is either because the switch is always on (look at the switch matrix in switch edges test, the box for position 58 will always be on (you can go to single switches and find switch 58 to really confirm). If the switch is always on, it could be something strange with your switch wiring, double check that the wires and the diode are connected to the right terminals.

    The overwhelmingly likely problem is that you won't get any sound in switch test when you short the wires because the wire is not making connection somewhere else.

    So I find another green-black switch wire, and clip the alligator clip to it where it is connected to another switch. Take the unconnected end of the alligator clip to your tunnel kickout switch, and clip the alligator clip to it's black-green terminal. Now activate the switch in switch test. If it makes a sound now, you know that your problem is the green-black wire. If your tunnel kickout switch is still dead, find a switch with a white-grey wire, and connect that switches white-grey wire to the tunnel switches white-grey wire terminal and activate the switch.

    It's quite common, because the wiring for switches daisy-chains from one switch to another, for a switch to be dead due to a disconnected wire, but the wire won't be disconnected at the 'dead' switch, it'll have a broke connection somewhere up the line.

    Once you've identified that your tunnel kickout switch has a problem with the white-grey or the green-black wire, you'll know which other switches to look at for the broken connection.

    Your manual is here:


    The switch matrix is on the inside of the back cover, PDF page 124.

    That'll show you all the other switches connected to the white-grey and green-black wires.

    Fixing this will be easy... finding it will be hard!

    Let us know what you find!


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