(Topic ID: 145146)

Funhouse trough switch issue


By CookyJar

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 45 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by dontfeed
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 4 years ago

So, just wanted to play one game of Funhouse before going to bed tonight and low and behold a problem popped up (isn't that always the case).

Starting having an issue with the center trough switch not working. Went into switch test and actuated by hand and it remains open, so I then hooked up the multi-meter directly to the switch for continuity and it tests fine, open and closed with manual activation. That rules out a flakey switch issue. I then test the diode with the multimeter and it looks fine (assuming I'm testing correctly).

I'm left scratching my head as to what to look for next, if anyone can point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated.

-Stephen

#3 4 years ago

Hey Lloyd, what is the proper reading I should be getting on the meter when lifting one diode leg?

If it's a broken wire from the the switch to the board would it effect the other switches in the line?

-Stephen

#4 4 years ago

Also, now that I'm thinking about it last week I was playing a game and when the ball drained it did not recognize it. I shook the machine slighty thinking the ball didn't sit on the switch actuator correctly. It worked and the game continued to work properly till tonight. So it looks like that was the beginning of a problem that has now fully taken hold.

-Stephen

#5 4 years ago

So, now after giving Funhouse a nights rest the ball trough switch seems to be working again. I went to start up a game and it immediately went into ball search (indicating the switch was not registering closed) a few minutes later I tried again and it started up and played fine. Checked the switch test and it was registering closed now. So it seems to be an intermittent problem, I'll just have to wait and see if it pops up again. Maybe a connector in the back box not making good contact? However I did reseat the connectors last night and I was still having problems. Any ideas?

#8 4 years ago

Went through the wires and they check out, no breaks. Going to try replacing the switch, it doesn't look like the Cherry D4 switches are available. Does anyone know the proper replacement switch?

#10 4 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Is that the big white switch?

Yes it is, with a 1" actuator. I see some sites selling similar looking switches, just not sure if they'll work correctly.

#13 4 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

I think these are the ones I bought when I did my FH restoration:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1578

These switches don't have the actuator and on the original the 1" actuator is built into the switch.

Quoted from wantdataeast:

check the color of wire not the ball drain switch and the center through switch... Are they the same color wire? If so check your switch matrix and go back up the line of other switches that are on the same color make sure you do not have a wire that is just barely making contact.

Will double check when I get home tonight.

#15 4 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

I thought you could swap the actuator over. Sorry.

That's what I originally thought too. I've been able to previously do that with smaller black micro switches that have the actuator on the outside.

#17 4 years ago
Quoted from terryb:

Just for clarification you can test a diode on a switch in the switch matrix while in-circuit (I would make sure the switch is open, but even that is not necessary--unless there are other problems in the circuit). This is not true of all diodes since it depends on the circuit. Not being picky, just trying to save people some unnecessary soldering.

Thanks for the tip! What determines whether you can test a diode in circuit or not? What kind of circuits allow this?

Quoted from wantdataeast:

check the color of wire (edit: of) the ball drain switch and the center through switch... Are they the same color wire? If so check your switch matrix and go back up the line of other switches that are on the same color make sure you do not have a wire that is just barely making contact.

RE diodes: Personally I would just as soon replace a .06 cent diode instead of remove it to check it.

Checked the switch matrix and followed the line of the other switches with the same color, all look good with no breaks or barley making contact. Going to order a new switch and diode from Steve Young tomorrow and see if that clears things up.

#18 4 years ago

Needed to order some parts for my Gottlieb Mayfair project anyway.

#20 4 years ago
Quoted from terryb:

If there are other components in parallel, like a diode on a coil, then you need to lift one leg or you would read through the coil. If there are no other components in parallel then you can test the diode in circuit.

Cool, thanks for the info. Ordered the switch and diode, hope to get Funhouse settled then back to work on my Mayfair project in the garage.

#22 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Did you ever put a meter on the switch to see if it works ?

With the meter on the switch it works sometimes, so it looks to be flaky. I had a similar issue with multiple flaky micro switches on my RFM, once I replaced the switches everything worked fine.

2 weeks later
#26 3 years ago

Finally figured it out on my end. Replaced the switch and diode and still not getting anything, so again for the fourth or fifth time (I lost count) I trace the wiring back. Then I finally see it, what I didn't see all the other times and what caused the switch to seem flakey. The white yellow wire from the center trough to the "E" stand up, to the the "S" stand up. The wire looks like it's attached, but it really isn't, it's broken free of the solder! I re-solder and finally the problem is solved!

Thanks to everyone for the help! Wish I'd looked closer the first time and maybe I'd notice it earlier.

-Stephen

#30 3 years ago
Quoted from terryb:

Stephen, you did just fine and figured it out on your own, which is a good thing.

TerryB™

Thanks Terry!

Also wanted to mention, I've been enjoying your soldering guide, it will definitely help my soldering work.

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