So, just wanted to play one game of Funhouse before going to bed tonight and low and behold a problem popped up (isn't that always the case).

Starting having an issue with the center trough switch not working. Went into switch test and actuated by hand and it remains open, so I then hooked up the multi-meter directly to the switch for continuity and it tests fine, open and closed with manual activation. That rules out a flakey switch issue. I then test the diode with the multimeter and it looks fine (assuming I'm testing correctly).

I'm left scratching my head as to what to look for next, if anyone can point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated.

-Stephen

Hey Lloyd, what is the proper reading I should be getting on the meter when lifting one diode leg?

If it's a broken wire from the the switch to the board would it effect the other switches in the line?

-Stephen

Also, now that I'm thinking about it last week I was playing a game and when the ball drained it did not recognize it. I shook the machine slighty thinking the ball didn't sit on the switch actuator correctly. It worked and the game continued to work properly till tonight. So it looks like that was the beginning of a problem that has now fully taken hold.

-Stephen

So, now after giving Funhouse a nights rest the ball trough switch seems to be working again. I went to start up a game and it immediately went into ball search (indicating the switch was not registering closed) a few minutes later I tried again and it started up and played fine. Checked the switch test and it was registering closed now. So it seems to be an intermittent problem, I'll just have to wait and see if it pops up again. Maybe a connector in the back box not making good contact? However I did reseat the connectors last night and I was still having problems. Any ideas?

Went through the wires and they check out, no breaks. Going to try replacing the switch, it doesn't look like the Cherry D4 switches are available. Does anyone know the proper replacement switch?

Yes it is, with a 1" actuator. I see some sites selling similar looking switches, just not sure if they'll work correctly.

These switches don't have the actuator and on the original the 1" actuator is built into the switch.

Will double check when I get home tonight.

That's what I originally thought too. I've been able to previously do that with smaller black micro switches that have the actuator on the outside.

Thanks for the tip! What determines whether you can test a diode in circuit or not? What kind of circuits allow this?

Checked the switch matrix and followed the line of the other switches with the same color, all look good with no breaks or barley making contact. Going to order a new switch and diode from Steve Young tomorrow and see if that clears things up.

Needed to order some parts for my Gottlieb Mayfair project anyway.

Cool, thanks for the info. Ordered the switch and diode, hope to get Funhouse settled then back to work on my Mayfair project in the garage.

With the meter on the switch it works sometimes, so it looks to be flaky. I had a similar issue with multiple flaky micro switches on my RFM, once I replaced the switches everything worked fine.

Finally figured it out on my end. Replaced the switch and diode and still not getting anything, so again for the fourth or fifth time (I lost count) I trace the wiring back. Then I finally see it, what I didn't see all the other times and what caused the switch to seem flakey. The white yellow wire from the center trough to the "E" stand up, to the the "S" stand up. The wire looks like it's attached, but it really isn't, it's broken free of the solder! I re-solder and finally the problem is solved!

Thanks to everyone for the help! Wish I'd looked closer the first time and maybe I'd notice it earlier.

-Stephen

Thanks Terry!

Also wanted to mention, I've been enjoying your soldering guide, it will definitely help my soldering work.