Diodes - you need to lift one leg to get an accurate reading.

Then check for broken wire from switch to board in the head.

LTG : )™

Replace the switch.

Open one way and closed the other.

Depends where it is in the line. Only effect switches after the break.

Don't over think this. Check the wires first, then switch, forget the diode.

LTG : )™

Is that the big white switch?

I think these are the ones I bought when I did my FH restoration:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1578

check the color of wire (edit: of) the ball drain switch and the center through switch... Are they the same color wire? If so check your switch matrix and go back up the line of other switches that are on the same color make sure you do not have a wire that is just barely making contact.

RE diodes: Personally I would just as soon replace a .06 cent diode instead of remove it to check it.

I thought you could swap the actuator over. Sorry.

Just for clarification you can test a diode on a switch in the switch matrix while in-circuit (I would make sure the switch is open, but even that is not necessary--unless there are other problems in the circuit). This is not true of all diodes since it depends on the circuit. Not being picky, just trying to save people some unnecessary soldering.

If there are other components in parallel, like a diode on a coil, then you need to lift one leg or you would read through the coil. If there are no other components in parallel then you can test the diode in circuit.

Did you ever put a meter on the switch to see if it works ?

LTG : )™

So I'm having the same problem as the Op. Switch works in test, not in game, etc. I want to replace the diode before I order a switch. I have a few diodes on hand. What size/value diode do I need to use?

Thanks

Pretty much any silicon diode should work. 1N4004 etc.

Diodes rarely fail, and you can test it with a meter very easily. I presume when you say works in test you mean that it tests ok with a meter vs it works in diagnostics?

If the switch tests good then most likely a broken wire in the column or row.

Glad you got it working.

You are learning. Check my post from 25 days ago. A few minutes with a meter and you'd know.

Next time you'll do better.

And you learned more about your game too.

LTG : )™

Stephen, you did just fine and figured it out on your own, which is a good thing.

TerryB™

Gives me something else to check. Hopefully I can check mine out over the holiday.

Thanks CookyJar (that's something I never thought I'd ever say).

Since CJ's all set, what kind of problems are you having?

I called that one. I am glad that you found it. But yours is a good lesson to everyone on how valuable following back wires (as described the switch matrix) can be. I now always check my switch matrix diagram first if I have anything switch out on the play field. If you have 2 or 3 switches out and find out the switches are associate with the same colored wire, it is time to check all solder connections along that wire.

Sorry for the late reply.

I've been having the same problem pretty much. Tested the switch and the other trough switches, the coil that kicks the ball into the trough after it drains, the diodes as well and everything seems to test out fine. The diodes are reading around .520 - .560 on the meter if I remember correctly. I gave the wire a going over and didn't find anything wrong with that.

I had the balls out out of the game and when I turned it on it didn't recognize the balls were missing. I started a game and then it said it was missing a pinball. Not sure if you have to start a game or not for that to happen. Anyway, I put the balls in and the game "found" them. Started playing, had each ball drain and of course it just sat there each time it drained without being kicked back into the trough. I haven't found any switches out on the playfield either.

Still thinking it's the switch.

Any ideas?

Thanks

You have to start a game before it will tell you balls are missing.

Go into switch test and see if the outhole switch is working. Go into solenoid test and see if the outhole solenoid is working.

Check your lock switches. If these are closed, the game may think the balls are there and not in the trough.

I thought so about having to start a game, but wasn't sure of the ball missing procedure. That part is ok then and I can rule out the lock switches.

I'll test the switch and solenoid later today if I get a chance.

I finally got to run a test today (life has been keeping me away from pinball a lot lately).

The outhole solenoid is not working in test. The outhole switch test reads : (A) CLOSED

What game is this?

Funhouse. I used the single switch test on the outhole. Is there another switch test i could've used?

Single switch test is fine. The outhole switch should not be closed all of the time. It should only read closed when a ball is present. Check the switch. If it was stuck closed then that may have fried the driver circuit for the solenoid.

First check and see if you have voltage at the coil. Both lugs should read roughly 50 volts.

If that's good then the drive transistor is Q82. You can check that with a DMM (game off). Pinwiki should have a guide on checking transistors. Also check the pre-driver transistor.

I actually had a ball there during the test. I'll make sure its removed and test it again. If it reads open, then what would be the next step?

I removed the balls and the switch now reads "OPEN" in the single switch test.

I tested the solenoid and got roughly 75 volts at each lug. Is that right? Also, should that solenoid have a diode? Mine doesn't.

I attempted to test the Q82 transistor. I got .433 on the left leg and .38 on the right leg. I tried to get the center leg, but I'm not sure if I did. However, I got the OL reading when I tried and I do believe that's the reading I wanted anyway, a short, correct?

What is the pre-driver transistor?

Yes, that's fine. 50 volts is nominal.

See the following for testing transistors (at the bottom). OL is open, or the opposite of a short.

http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/tutorials/120-electronics-tutorial-transistors

Q81 is the pre-driver for Q82. Link above should also have info on testing it.

So, I finally was able to revisit this issue today after having to deal with "life" for awhile.

I went and re-seated all of the cables to the power driver board while looking for any signs of damage. Lo and behold, after doing that and firing it up, it's working again! I'll keep a watchful eye on it to make sure nothing-else springs up, hopefully nothing does.

Thanks for the help!