(Topic ID: 288501)

Funhouse speaker upgrade..NOW LETS TALK PINSOUND!

By cosmokramer

3 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 51 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 months ago by pencilneck
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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#16 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Ugh, as this project budget spirals out of control I think this is the best choice for my beloved Funhouse...
Its only money right?
Ok so now that I have made a decision, what are the best choices for replacement speakers in this title with the pinsound system (links greatly appreciated) and also what components do I need for pinsound?
Thanks
Oh, and I guess I will put in the shaker as well...

I went with the Pinball-Pro speakers this time.

Im also nearly done with my "over-the-top" restore. I had 20 years of NOS parts to use up, brand new everything lol.

The new speakers sound great, a bit heavy on the bass with the regular sound card, but easily fixed with the pinsound board.

I also put in pinsound+, the motion control and their shaker, along with GOICD and LEDOCD.

I also ordered all heavy chrome armor, but at the last minute changed back to just brand new stainless.

The chrome seemed to dark and didnt match the mirror blades or the mirror on the CPR backglass.

Im still debating on whether or not to put in a stainless lift channel under the backglass for aesthetics.

I have the system 11 black trim on it right now and it seems fine.

1 week later
#18 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

So if I am adding this to funhouse what exactly do I need?
I want the pinsound system, all new speakers, and a shaker...
Im ready to order

There are no official shakers for the pinsound system, so you have to program them in with the pinsound studio software. They will ultimately have them pre-programmed in the firmware, but not yet.

Its incredibly easy to make once you see it and play with it a bit.

I had pretty good shakers running in about 10 mins of fooling around.

I would, and did, get the pinsound+, the motion control, the stereo cable, and either the speakers from pinsound or flipper fidelity or pinball pro.

Pinsound is pretty nice that you can just order it all from them and be done with it. They have very good speakers also,

I will get the speakers from flipper fidelity next time. They are much easier to install and setup.

One I have a pretty good shaker routine running, Ill post the orchestration to the pinsound community downloads page.

#19 3 years ago

My backbox is pretty full with the LED-OCD, GIOCD and the pinsound motion controller.
Ill post a pic later.

The motion control has to fit all the way to the back wall or the light board latch will hit it.

#21 3 years ago

Yes the game is very over the top.
I went with the pinscore display and modfather rudy paint. 100% LEDs.

The red cable on the LEDOCD board could be 1/2" longer, but it fits.
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#23 3 years ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Rudy's face looks 'different'....

Modfather is cool!

Also from the pics, looks like time to vacuum again lol

That blue sure shows the dandruff!

And, if they fit, mirror blades going in when its done.

#25 3 years ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

And consider putting a small circular mylar on the playfield on the lighter blue area between the 3-oclock insert and the scoop. The playfield notoriously wears at that spot...

I have 20 pieces of mylar already lol.

Everything is well protected!

These are the best:

ebay.com link: Funhouse Pinball Machine complete Mylar Set

#29 3 years ago
Quoted from sb33334:

Is there mylar for these areas that I seem to wear out more and more (by the top hot dog, and wind tunnel), or should I get some generic and cut to shape?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Just get the set i listed off of ebay.

Its perfect.

#30 3 years ago

Also installed all the plastic protectors..

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#33 3 years ago
Quoted from sb33334:

Is there mylar for these areas that I seem to wear out more and more (by the top hot dog, and wind tunnel), or should I get some generic and cut to shape?
[quoted image][quoted image]

It does indeed have a tunnel mylar.

Yes the sheet from germany has all of the wear areas on it.

There are mylars for areas that I hadnt ever considered.

The set is very thorough.

#34 3 years ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

I looked as well. It does not. It misses the area to the left of Rudy and not really sure why they skipped that easy-to-apply area.

Basically there was a mylar to cover every single area that was worn on my blown out playfield.

just get a set and you will see that everything is covered including outhole mylar that you didnt mention.

For the money, its not only over the top, but very inexpensive.

And the fit is nearly dead on.

I have been buying his mylars for years, I have no complaints.

In fact if you contact him directly he will add a mylar to the set if people think is important.

Or, find fault in everything and grumble on

#36 3 years ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

I am still shocked it’s only $25 including the shipping from Germany!!! Seems like a no brainer for anyone/everyone!

Yep! Also they are super thin 2ml and dont deflect the ball like the 3ml ones.

Super transparent and fairly easy to remove when needed with freeze spray..

#38 3 years ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

The set sounds perfect, especially if the playfield is in good shape already so the mylar bits will adhere better. (I find mylar doesn't stick all that well to areas that already have damage).
One note: To apply playfield mylar, I purchased a hard rubber hand roller (seam roller?) that presses mylar down 99% better than doing so by hand. It makes the adhesion very uniform visually. Here's the roller I got: https://tinyurl.com/Mylar-Roller

I use these:

https://www.amazon.com/EEFUN-Squeegee-Wrapping-Professional-Squeegee/dp/B073SVTVBL/ref=sr_1_3

and I always use this, it doesnt hurt the glue, and in fact helps it:

Apply the mylar, get it where you want it. Carefully squeegee out all of the fluid. Let it dry an hour or so, squeegee out further and burnish down.
Hit it the next day with a hair dryer and burnish it further.

https://www.amazon.com/RapidTac-RT-10321-9-Vinyl-Application-Fluid/dp/B006RUG9XO/ref=sr_1_3

In fact I use all the rapid tac products, especially the adhesive remover. Its amazing.

#40 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Would mylar even be needed on a freshly clear coated playfield in a HUO setting?

Its not needed but helps to keep areas fresh from getting too cloudy from ball traffic.

Especially inside and around the pops and where the ball drops down from the ramps and wireforms.

Always you need the mylar 2" below where the scoop throws the ball.

Get the full kit of mylar from the guy on ebay in Germany. It has every thing you need.

Its thin mylar, not like what marco sells. So its not as durable, like for route use, but doesnt interfere with the ball.

Its perfect for home use and is easily removed for change outs.

#41 3 years ago

I think you are starting what I just finished:

Rudy has the modfather treatment.

Translucent pop-bumper bodies from Zitt.

Red siderails from Taylor.

Mirror blades going in if they will fit. If you are doing mirror blades, add 3/32" or 1/8" to the cabinet width.
You will need the extra 1/16" to fit them.

I made this mistake and should have though futther ahead. Now ita a very tight fit.

If you want more pics or vids let me know.

#42 3 years ago

This is how red rails look.

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#44 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Wow, that stunning and almost exactly what I am doing.
I decided not to do mirror blades, they always seem to scratch and look bad even with a slightly wider cab. I may use art blades, or just keep it blue...not sure yet.
I was planning on cutting some new rails and use black lacquer, but boy does that red look nice! I think thats the way Im going with those.
Can you post some close up pics of the pops. I bought solid red white and blue, but the clear may look better, thanks

I went with the Zitt translucent bodies with the 7 LED double sided disk lights, they cast better light on the playfield.

The art director on this project (@pinballgoddess) definitely states that the clean blue walls against the red rails is the best option. Lol, well see, I haven seen any of the art blades that I can buy in to.

Another restore used color matched translucents, either way looks great.

HEP uses a lot of Zitt clear or translucent colored bodies, they look awesome.

I try not to use too much color, it can cast a brownish hue if the light mixes on the playfield.

Also, we looked at coloring the armor or having it chromed.

Oddly it all wasnt quite perfect. Plain stainless had the best presence next to the blue.

Chrome, though beautiful, just looked too dark to me when set on the sides.

#45 3 years ago

The last item is the apron.

I was trying to save it, but an old operator sticker ate the silkscreen paint.

So, Im going with black epoxy paint and new decals now.

I also keep changing the extra ball lamp out.

Due to the angle of the insert from the players perspective, its hard to get it to look bright when it flashes,

Ill do something to it today.

2 months later
#48 2 years ago
Quoted from Kevster219:

I installed pinball pro speakers and a pinsound plus sound board into my FunHouse and immediately took pinsound out. Unfortunately for this game nothing beats the stock setup. The smaller speaker to the right with the coil sounds terrible with the pinsound board, and I tried multiple settings. Even with just the pinball pro speakers Rudy sounds like he’s talking through a wall. I reinstalled just the right speaker with coil and it fixed the issue and was able to leave the rest of the pinball pro speakers but no dice with pinsound. Rudy is nice and clear with that right speaker. I have a pinsound plus and pinball pro speakers in my BSD and honestly I think the stock sound board sounds better in that too. IMO you sacrifice the clarity of the sounds for some added bass and custom files which I care nit to alter my games. If there was no other option on the planet sure great replacement, but I will never replace a perfectly working sound board with pinsound again. I will be selling both of mine at a loss but for me a lesson well learned.

I had the opposite result, lol.

Im using the classic orchestration and with subtle adjustments of the 6 dials, Rudy has never sounded better.

People who have seen my game are shocked at how good it sounds.

And they have funhouse in their collection.

Ill take your pinsound plus if you are selling it at a loss!

I love them.

But as always its probably not for everyone, like LED's.

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