(Topic ID: 285170)

Funhouse: Shooter Rod Alignment (Post-Restore)

By Pinball_Eddie

3 years ago


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#1 3 years ago

Greetings, hope everyone is having a safe and great New Year so far...another quick one today.

I finished my restoration and the LAST thing that is just a thorn in my side is the right shooter. I got the left shooter perfect and have no issues at all but the right one is not consistent.

I've adjusted it left, right, up and down multiple times and when it seems like I got it, then one random shot makes the ball rattle at the entrance of the metal ramp. I know there is always some wiggle room with a shooter rod no matter what final position you have it in, meaning if you hold it to the right, left, up or down you can get different results but my main goal is just pulling the shooter and letting go as before the restore, I never remember the ball hitting the entrance of the metal ramp (last pic) and ricocheting back and forth at that entrance.

The playfield is an older Micro and was cleared by Kruzman and the playfield support fits fine in the lockdown bar and is in the same position each time. I have room for adjusting all directions and I believe I have it oriented right in terms of up and down because if I adjust it in any of these positions, the ball looses momentum when shooting, so it's just a left or right issue apparently.

I'm also not sure if perhaps the metal ball guide\rail on the right side (pics 6 and 7) needs to bend out towards the shooter lane a little as in my before restore pics, it seemed to stick out a little and not sure if perhaps the ball is supposed to flow off of that to prevent it from rattling back and forth the metal ramp launch entrance? Initially I tried and pushed\bent it inwards thinking this was causing the ball to go into the ramp entrance and rattle back and forth.

I would say it shoots fine 7 out of 10 times to give an idea on it's consistency as I was under the impression it's either aligned properly or not, meaning it will either shoot correctly or not vs. this sporadic behavior I'm getting.

Hope all this makes sense and I've attached some pics to show its current position.

Thanks so much for any and all help and stay safe everyone.

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#2 3 years ago

Try taking the rubber off the mini post between the red and the clear insert.
May be glancing off of it.

#3 3 years ago

On mine, the metal ramp is a little closer to the right rail than yours. Do you know if its hitting the left or right side when it does hit and rattle around?

#4 3 years ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

Try taking the rubber off the mini post between the red and the clear insert.
May be glancing off of it.

Will try this first and if it fixes it, can try a smaller rubber.

Quoted from arcadenerd925:

On mine, the metal ramp is a little closer to the right rail than yours. Do you know if its hitting the left or right side when it does hit and rattle around?

Not sure which side it hits as it’s so quick and maybe I should setup my phone to record in slow motion. I just know when it happens, it goes back and forth quickly at the entrance of the metal ramp. Only happens 2-3 times out of 10 attempts.

I sure hope this isn’t the cause since it wouldn’t move much and not sure how that would affect the ramp flap screw placement. I’ll check this morning but I think the ramp is up against the wooden side rail and if that’s the case, it wouldn’t be able to be moved.

Thanks everyone for the help and feel free to continue the tips and suggestions.

Stay safe.

#5 3 years ago

Ok I adjusted the ramp as it was too far left and the same exact behavior, maybe 8 out of 10 shots are good. It really does it more with short pull (trying to get skill shot).

I tried removing that rubber on the post and it still did it so it definitely isn’t the rubber.

I also adjusted the shooter rod several times and have it dead center (used a laser).

I don’t know what else to do or if this is just one of the results that you have to live with when doing a restore, perhaps due to the clear? I know it never did it before but last playfield was worn out and no clear at all.

I even took slo motion video and when it rattles, sometimes it will hit the right side of the ramp entrance and sometimes it will hit the left side of the ramp entrance, think this is due to the shooter rod, see next paragraph.

The other thing is I don’t think it will ever always shoot it perfect every time because when you twist the shooter rod, it will slightly change where the tip rests on the ball. The shooter rod was purchased new about 5 years ago and not sure if shooter rods shouldn’t be this way and if I need to buy a new one? The rods were kept away from my project area so they weren’t bent recently and were like this before the restoration.

Any help is appreciated.

#6 3 years ago

Have you put a level on play field? Cabinet may be level but pf could be off. Just a thought.

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from Cash_Riprock:

Have you put a level on play field? Cabinet may be level but pf could be off. Just a thought.

Sure did, first thing I did before testing, side to side is at 0 and pitch is at 6.5 and used a digital level that also has a bubble in it.

I went ahead and ordered some new shooter rods and springs as I still think the rod is slightly bent as I don't think the tip should change positions when rotating it so when I change the shooters I'll also check the leveling again.

Thanks for all the help everyone.

#8 3 years ago

So it's your main shooter plunger?

If when you turn the rod you are seeing variance, that would be the next thing you should change out.

When it rattles is it before or after it hits the flap? Since you did a slow-mo, can you see if the ball is headed left or right rather than straight when it gets to it? If you do a controlled plunge (make sure it doesn't twist) you should see some consistency.

Everything you describe sounds like a bent plunger.

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from Zablon:

So it's your main shooter plunger?
If when you turn the rod you are seeing variance, that would be the next thing you should change out.
When it rattles is it before or after it hits the flap? Since you did a slow-mo, can you see if the ball is headed left or right rather than straight when it gets to it? If you do a controlled plunge (make sure it doesn't twist) you should see some consistency.
Everything you describe sounds like a bent plunger.

Yes, main shooter rod (right side). It rattles after it hits the flap. It varies in terms of the direction it does in on each plunge when I did the slo mo which leads me to believe it’s the shooter rod as I know I can never be exact every time I plunge but I still don’t think the shooter tip should change positions so much when rotating it. To better explain, the tip will be exact center on the ball, when I rotate the shooter it will then be on the right side of the ball, then the left and back to center.

Another confirmation of this as sometimes it will start the rattle on the right side of the ramp entrance and others it will be the left side. I got a laser level and lined up the center of where the ball sits and it lines up now exact center of the metal ramp. The ramp flap screws are down enough as I checked with the ball. The metal flap that the ball exits was tumbled and is smooth as it can be and freely moves so don’t think that is causing this ad I put the flap in the up position where the ball wouldn’t hit it and it would eventually hit\rattle the metal ramp entrance.

It doesn’t do it every time as I just think with repeated plunges the shooter rod slowly gets rotated slightly and that’s why it eventually happens.

The other shooter rod doesn’t have this issue as I think the ramp isn’t as tight but the shooter rod does the same thing when rotating and the positioning.

I ordered two new shooter rods, and sleeves as the sleeves I have are a little dirty but not bad (replaced 5 years ago and didn’t play a ton of games). I also went ahead and ordered both springs, inside and out. The other hardware (clips and washers are fine).

Just hoping the new shooter rods are straight and that this will isn’t a common thing. Oh and the rubber tip is new.

I appreciate all the help and will continue to post updates and hoping I can get this resolved as this is the LAST remaining issue as everything else is dialed in. Well the ball lock disc sometimes allows a really fast shot ball to escape but I think this is common and due to the cleared playfield as I have the disc positioned as far as it can go to allow ejects and from what I read the issue is the return spring has to have enough tension to keep a ball from going through but also enough to eject it and it seems the consensus is that this isn’t the best design. I also replaced the disc as mine was mushroomed significantly which I actually thinks helps stop the ball better. I would say the ball escapes 1 out of 10 shots and it’s always a fast and direct shot. The main thing I check is that the position of the disc doesn’t move and it has yet to do so but I also ordered a new crank in case I have to adjust it in the future as the current crank is almost closed and heard once that happens it makes it difficult to ever get it tight enough.

Sorry for the extra stuff but hoping this will help any amateur restorers in the future as this was my first full restoration (cab and playfield).

Thanks again.

#10 3 years ago

The problem is due to the mirco play field

The bevel into the wood that creates the shooter lane is shorter than your original play field by an inch or two. If you still have your old play field this is easy to see if you compare them.

So it creates inconsistency by the time the ball enters that metal portion of the lane

I struggled with your same probelem for weeks.

I only solved it by adjusting and readjusting the leg levels over and over. I solved it with a perfect 6.5 degree pitch and a 0.2 degree difference from right to left measured exactly above the slings.

It helped me a ton by filming the ball plunge in slow motion with my phone. Then you could see where the ball was pulling right or left.

#11 3 years ago

I had your EXACT problem

#12 3 years ago
Quoted from Elicash:

The problem is due to the mirco play field
The bevel into the wood that creates the shooter lane is shorter than your original play field by an inch or two. If you still have your old play field this is easy to see if you compare them.
So it creates inconsistency by the time the ball enters that metal portion of the lane
I struggled with your same probelem for weeks.
I only solved it by adjusting and readjusting the leg levels over and over. I solved it with a perfect 6.5 degree pitch and a 0.2 degree difference from right to left measured exactly above the slings.
It helped me a ton by filming the ball plunge in slow motion with my phone. Then you could see where the ball was pulling right or left.

Thanks Eli, was hoping it wasn’t this but will try this today. So you ended up with the right side higher than the left by .2 degrees? Did this cause any issues or differences with gameplay?

Thanks again and glad I’m not alone and it’s a real shame as my Mirco was 5 years old (not ceramic) and also had Kruzman do the clear work.

#13 3 years ago

The 0.2 degrees is higher on left side of machine.

I spent a lot of time adjusting the shooter rod but did not get to the level of detail it sounds like you did. But visually, my shooter appears to hit the ball dead center from left to right but maybe a tiny fraction above dead center from top to bottom.

This solved it for me to the point it’s probably 99 clean shots out of 100.

And the 0.2 degrees is not noticeable during game play. I even drop a ball from top of play field to see how it rolls, and it is so negligible the ball doesn’t really pull at all.

#14 3 years ago
Quoted from Elicash:

The 0.2 degrees is higher on left side of machine.
I spent a lot of time adjusting the shooter rod but did not get to the level of detail it sounds like you did. But visually, my shooter appears to hit the ball dead center from left to right but maybe a tiny fraction above dead center from top to bottom.
This solved it for me to the point it’s probably 99 clean shots out of 100.
And the 0.2 degrees is not noticeable during game play. I even drop a ball from top of play field to see how it rolls, and it is so negligible the ball doesn’t really pull at all.

Thanks again Eli, mine seems to favor hitting the right side of the entrance to the ramp so perhaps my ramp is a little more to the right but will do some playing around with it today and let everyone know.

I checked out my other shooters in terms of rotating to see if the tip moves position on the ball and they do, my Metallica, only 300 plays and was NIB does but no issues and even my Wonka (less than 50 plays NIB) does too so perhaps my shooter rod is fine after all but guess I’ll at least change the sleeve since it’s a little dirty.

Thanks again for the help and tips.

#15 3 years ago

Well I adjusted the leveling and I guess it helped, tried both ways, higher in left and higher on right and left seemed better but still occasionally does it. Hoping new shooter rods will help too as I might as well try it.

It’s a REAL SHAME and DISAPPOINTMENT that these Mirco playfields do not have correct bevel shooter lane length as everything else is perfect and you would think that would be an area that wouldn’t be hard to replicate. I just WISH I would have known about this before I sent my playfield to Kruzman as I’m sure he could have fixed this relatively easily but now I’m forced to deal with this nuisance forever. It’s a hard pill to swallow to spend so much time and money in this restoration to have this one remaining issue that cannot be resolved.

Oh well, hopefully this thread will help someone in the future.

Thanks again for everyone’s help, input and tips.

Take care and stay safe.

#16 3 years ago

I wonder if this has been corrected on the newer runs? You said this was an older run, does anybody have a newer version that would like to chime in?

#17 3 years ago

One thing to know too is the repro ramps are thicker than original, and you may have needed to grind out some pf to get them right.

#18 3 years ago

Glad you were able to dial it in somewhat. Mine is a mirco repro and I did not have this problem so I am a little bit baffled by it. A slow-mo video showing the issue might still be handy.

#19 3 years ago
Quoted from Zablon:

One thing to know too is the repro ramps are thicker than original, and you may have needed to grind out some pf to get them right.

The ramp that it launches on\to is the metal one and is original, the other repro ramps have no issues.

Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Glad you were able to dial it in somewhat. Mine is a mirco repro and I did not have this problem so I am a little bit baffled by it. A slow-mo video showing the issue might still be handy.

Here’s a Google drive link of all the slo no videos if that helps. Some I plunged slow, others full power and some holding the shooter rod left and right while shooting. These are also before I leveled it higher on the left side:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1LtS_V_JkL7L-SZKwVDcLOVMzLklmyBvf

Thanks again for the help.

#20 3 years ago

I looked at your videos but they’re not in slo mo. (Unless I’m missing something). I really can’t recommend slow mo enough because it makes it so much easier to identify the ball path.

I also forgot to mention I very slightly bent/manipulated the metal rail that ends right where it transitions to the rubber and the ramp flap.

In slow mo you can see the ball rides against this.

My game is folded up at the moment due to some basement work being done. But I am happy to send you some pics of mine if it helps. Like I said, I feel like I was able to finally overcome this and dial it in.

So if you continue to have issues just let me know.

#21 3 years ago

In your last video of the drive, I had to go frame by frame but you can see it veer right into the rubber on the right side before the metal ramp. It then bounces over to the left and rattles around. To me, that is not mirco's short shooter lane groove.

You mentioned that the flap at the end of the lane moves freely so i assume that isnt it.

when you say that you rotate the shooter and it's not longer dead center behind the ball what is the variance? (how far can it be off center?)

(which leads to the next question, i know some rubber tips can be a little wonky and skew things a bit)

you mentioned the rubber on the tip is new, maybe try titans for the tip?

Have you tried different color springs on the rod? changing the velocity of the ball coming out of the lane with different springs might potentially help.

so there are still some things you could try if your not quite ready to throw in the towel yet.

#22 3 years ago

Same problem as mine, Mirco playfield. Also drilled/dimpled incorrectly on the left plunger which effects maybe 85%+ of plunges.

#23 3 years ago
Quoted from Elicash:

I looked at your videos but they’re not in slo mo. (Unless I’m missing something). I really can’t recommend slow mo enough because it makes it so much easier to identify the ball path.
I also forgot to mention I very slightly bent/manipulated the metal rail that ends right where it transitions to the rubber and the ramp flap.
In slow mo you can see the ball rides against this.
My game is folded up at the moment due to some basement work being done. But I am happy to send you some pics of mine if it helps. Like I said, I feel like I was able to finally overcome this and dial it in.
So if you continue to have issues just let me know.

I recorded them from my iPhone in Slo Mo so not sure if by uploading them, that removes that function or if they are only slo mo on IOS devices?

When you bent the metal rail, did you bend it towards the rubber (closer to the wooden side rail) or away (towards the playfield)?

Thanks for the help.

Quoted from arcadenerd925:

In your last video of the drive, I had to go frame by frame but you can see it veer right into the rubber on the right side before the metal ramp. It then bounces over to the left and rattles around. To me, that is not mirco's short shooter lane groove.
You mentioned that the flap at the end of the lane moves freely so i assume that isnt it.
when you say that you rotate the shooter and it's not longer dead center behind the ball what is the variance? (how far can it be off center?)
(which leads to the next question, i know some rubber tips can be a little wonky and skew things a bit)
you mentioned the rubber on the tip is new, maybe try titans for the tip?
Have you tried different color springs on the rod? changing the velocity of the ball coming out of the lane with different springs might potentially help.
so there are still some things you could try if your not quite ready to throw in the towel yet.

The metal flap does move freely and I even opened it up all the way to where the ball wouldn't hit it during testing and it still behaved the same way.

The tip can be pretty far off from just rotating it. I recorded another video and uploaded it to the same Google drive link above and it's called "Rotating Shooters". All I did was keep the shooter in it's resting positions and rotated\turned the shooter rod. I did this first for the main right shooter, then the left (which isn't having any issues). Then I went to my Metallica (less than 300 plays and was NIB from February 2019) and did the same thing to show comparison:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1LtS_V_JkL7L-SZKwVDcLOVMzLklmyBvf

The rubber tips I got new were from Marcos from their standard kit. Never tried Titan tips before.

Regarding the springs, I am using the regular factory specified one and it is 5 years old, bought new ones when I purchased this but I did order new shooter rods and springs (both inside and out) and figured it couldn't hurt to try those. Once I get them (today hopefully), I will do a roll test with the new ones vs. the old ones to see if the old ones are in fact bent and don't roll smooth.

Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Same problem as mine, Mirco playfield. Also drilled/dimpled incorrectly on the left plunger which effects maybe 85%+ of plunges.

Luckily mine was drilled\dimpled pretty spot on from what I can tell, although my Scoop\VUK doesn't seem to quite have a lot of power from other videos I've seen so not sure if others are using a stronger coil (which I did previously) as I put the original spec coil in but it was brand new. I'll be starting another thread about that as I couldn't seem to find any threads on this so be on the lookout and appreciate the help.

Thanks again everyone, hoping the new shooter rods and springs help.

#24 3 years ago

I've had to tweak on mine just as Elicash has and have done two other Mirco swaps. I've had success with the above recommendations and adjusting the apron "fangs" seemed to be the fix for me. Getting it right allows the plunger to hit the ball squarely. Hard to describe but when you make some adjustments to it to allow the ball to get hit differently where the ball rests.

Have you tried this yet?

#25 3 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

I've had to tweak on mine just as elicash has and have done two other Mirco swaps. I've had success with the above recommendations and adjusting the apron "fangs" seemed to be the fix for me. Getting it right allows the plunger to hit the ball squarely. Hard to describe but when you make some adjustments to it to allow the ball to get hit differently where the ball rests.
Have you tried this yet?

Haven’t adjusted those yet as they seem to sit dead center in the lockdown bar receiver.

I still think it has something to do with the shooter as I don’t think it should change positions SO MUCH when just rotating it and hoping new shooter rods, sleeves and springs will help if not solve it as when the shooter rod is dead center, it works fine and think as you plunge, it slowly turns and eventually is not centered no more and causes the collision with the metal ramp.

I think this didn’t happen with the old playfield, even though I was using the same shooter rods because the bevel groove was longer that Mirco’s which helped so the shooter rod didn’t have to be so precisely centered but just guessing.

I should have the replacement parts today and we’ll see. I might also try some Titan shooter rods but tried Titan flipper rubbers or silicone ones before and preferred the action from the original rubbers.

Thanks again everyone for the continued help and hopefully this will help others in the future.

#26 3 years ago

Interesting conversation. I have the exact same issue, also repro playfield.

The biggest improvement for me is perfect levelling. Which is not easy on my uneven floor. However 2 out of 10 times the ball still rattles on the ramp inlet

I bent the shooter apron flaps where the ball rests slightly in order to let the ball rest perfectly in alignment with the playfield carveout.

I also have a shooter plunger that ist not perfectly straight with the same behaviour like you describe. Im very interested in the results with your new parts

#27 3 years ago

Ok, slight update, still waiting on the new shooter rods, sleeves and springs but figured I would remove the main shooter and check if it was bent and to my surprise it wasn’t, it rolled perfectly straight.

I then reassembled and turned it and think it was due to the rubber tip as to why it drastically changed positions when turning\rotating like arcadenerd925 mentioned so I kept adjusting and now they hardly move when turning but still slightly and think it’s due to the outside smaller spring and that the sleeve has some play in it and don’t think this can be prevented.

I figured I would still replace everything once the mail runs.

What’s weird is while the main right shooter rod needs to be dead center in the ball, the alert STEPS shooter rod seems to only work correctly when it’s positioned to the right side of the ball, very strange.

Regarding the Scoop\VUK, I just don’t see how the regular specified coil is correct based upon n all the videos of gameplay I’ve seen, meaning the power. I went back to my slightly more powerful coil AE-25-1000 and now it behaves like all the others I’ve watched. My initial issue was it was hitting the rubber right when it ejected due to leveling the left side of the machine slightly higher to compensate for the main shooter issue but I’ve since made it level again. I didn’t test the original coil (even though it was new) since adjusting and can easily do so since I Molexed all the coils but just don’t think it will provide that much power, could be the position or the replacement scoop. Anyway sorry to sidetrack but didn’t start a new thread yet and not sure if I’m going to.

Thanks again for the help and will post an update later.

#28 3 years ago

Ok, the final conclusion and results

First I just want to make sure to this thread is not taken as coming down or saying anything bad about the Mirco playfield I got (not ceramic), it is truly amazing and I didn’t have any issues with the dimples and pre-drilled holes. I do not regret in the slightest on purchasing it and then having Ron Kruzman doing his clear magic on it, made it truly a one of a kind work of art.

Ok, with that said, I think I am done, at least with this shooter rod issue.

I did roll on a flat surface my existing shooter rods and they did not wobble at all but I went ahead and replaced both shooter rods, the longer inside spring, the shorter outside spring as well as the sleeves. When I put the rubber tip on, I made sure to go evenly and not rush it and guess what, when I rotated them, they hardly moved at all. I have no idea why my existing setup did, maybe the shooter rods had issues or perhaps the sleeves and springs were causing so much variance, but just speculating.

So now I went to test and everything appeared to be good, not great but I would say it was a DEFINITE improvement and only had one or two issues with the ramp on the main shooter rod but it could have been the way I plunged, I could have been holding it left, right, up or down as when I started to pay attention when I shot the ball and just relaxed and pulled back smoothly, I didn’t have any issues.

I also did adjust my left shooter STEPS shooter rod so it’s almost dead center now and not sure how it was working as well as it was how it was previously positioned further to the right but again perhaps it was due to the old setup.

For those interested, I did post some additional pics showing the final positioning and some pics of the hook placements that secure into the lockdown bar receiver. I did another test of rotating both shooter rods and posted that video too.

I think that’s it as I’m done fiddling with this and want to start enjoying this again and I’m sure I can continue to adjust and adjust but then one time where I might not plunge the ball straight, it does it again and I’d just drive myself insane. If the shooter rods did not move side to side or up and down, then I might continue but since there is so much variance with these shooter rods and how they can be shot so many different ways depending on what angle you hold it, etc., I will just be happy with what I have and congratulate myself on a job well done as this was my first restoration of a pinball and I feel it came out pretty well. Is it perfect, heck no but I knew that wouldn’t even be possible based on my experience, but I’ve already scored a game of 22 million on regular difficulty with no extra balls for score or special, I think it’s pretty dialed in and I just past the 70 game mark.

I want to thank everyone for all your help and taking time to provide your input, feedback and advice. I can only hope that this thread will help others in the years to come as I really couldn’t find any other thread that discussed this.

I was not going to do another thread about the scoop but since I also couldn’t really find anything about the normal behavior and power of the scoop, I will start one. It won’t be an ongoing thread as I am pretty much done with that or at least what I am going to do.

I hope everyone has a great rest of the week and please stay safe out there.

#29 3 years ago

Awesome, glad you were able to get it dialed in. Even if it's not perfect, sounds like its close enough to start enjoying it!

2 months later
#30 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinball_Eddie:

I'm also not sure if perhaps the metal ball guide\rail on the right side (pics 6 and 7) needs to bend out towards the shooter lane a little as in my before restore pics, it seemed to stick out a little and not sure if perhaps the ball is supposed to flow off of that to prevent it from rattling back and forth the metal ramp launch entrance? Initially I tried and pushed\bent it inwards thinking this was causing the ball to go into the ramp entrance and rattle back and forth.
[

man, that post saved my Rudys life
I was wasting hours in aligning/changing things as only 2/3 of the plunges made it all the way around-1/3 got stuck with some rattling noise and fell back to the bumpers.
Finally as proposed by you that was the solution in my case:
realigning the metal guide inwards (towards playfield) gives me a 100% plunge (detail A in pic)
before it seems the ball was sometimes crashing into the right ramp entrance (detail B)

was hard to track down as I suspected the gate flap being the culprit as by holding it upwards I always had a 100% success rate

Rudy is happy now and rewarded me with a new GC score of 100M

20210412_151310 (resized).jpg20210412_151310 (resized).jpg
#31 3 years ago
Quoted from harig:

man, that post saved my Rudys life
I was wasting hours in aligning/changing things as only 2/3 of the plunges made it all the way around-1/3 got stuck with some rattling noise and fell back to the bumpers.
Finally as proposed by you that was the solution in my case:
realigning the metal guide inwards (towards playfield) gives me a 100% plunge (detail A in pic)
before it seems the ball was sometimes crashing into the right ramp entrance (detail B)
was hard to track down as I suspected the gate flap being the culprit as by holding it upwards I always had a 100% success rate
Rudy is happy now and rewarded me with a new GC score of 100M
[quoted image]

Ball rattle there is a real problem.

I moved the flatrail out about 3/32" and now the ball flies thru like a rocket!

2 months later
#32 3 years ago
Quoted from harig:

man, that post saved my Rudys life
I was wasting hours in aligning/changing things as only 2/3 of the plunges made it all the way around-1/3 got stuck with some rattling noise and fell back to the bumpers.
Finally as proposed by you that was the solution in my case:
realigning the metal guide inwards (towards playfield) gives me a 100% plunge (detail A in pic)
before it seems the ball was sometimes crashing into the right ramp entrance (detail B)
was hard to track down as I suspected the gate flap being the culprit as by holding it upwards I always had a 100% success rate
Rudy is happy now and rewarded me with a new GC score of 100M
[quoted image]

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Ball rattle there is a real problem.
I moved the flatrail out about 3/32" and now the ball flies thru like a rocket!

Just wanted to chime in here and say thanks to the people that came before me.

I just got a Funhouse on the weekend and it is awesome!

I did have this shooter rattle going on and all the shooter bracket and tip adjustments just were not making a difference. And then I found this thread and did what was mentioned above about that flap on the outside and how if you pull it in a little bit towards the playfield, the ball stops catching those long rubber rings on the right and flies on by. And sure enough, I can't get it to rattle anymore even if I try!

Easy solution too. I took that slim plastic off to have a look and there appears to be a small L bracket where that metal rail would screw into the playfield through, but mine had no screw in it. And the hole in the playfield was a little off from where I thought I needed it... so all I did was fold a small piece of paper over a few times to get the right thickness and slipped it in between the metal rail and the wood of the playfield. And this brought it out just the right amount. Good to go!!

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