(Topic ID: 274593)

Funhouse Restore: Which Lighting Option?


By ED-209

5 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 13 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by ED-209
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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Topic poll

“What Lighting Option for Funhouse?”

  • All Incandescents Except Backbox - Home Use Only, Damage Not an Issue 4 votes
    22%
  • GI Incandescents for PF, LED Everywhere Else (Either Non-Ghosting or Reg w\ LED OCD) 3 votes
    17%
  • All LED 11 votes
    61%

(18 votes)

#1 5 months ago

Well I figured I might as well start this one too and I know this is probably going to get heated so please be respectful of other’s choices. I encourage pros and cons discussions as that’s the whole point but will give my input and start from there....

When I got this machine it already had LED’s, some from a kit (don’t care of them), some frosted in the GI, some not underneath, etc. It was a mix and match. I did what I could with my limited knowledge at the time and got the inserts looking pretty good. I didn’t really do the non-ghosting approach. I did replace the flashers with LED ones and the only incandescents I left were the 455 flashers in the backbox as I could not find any LED version that replicated the randomness of the blinks.

So fast forward to about a month ago when I started my first restore journey. I was all set to get the LED and GI OCD boards and do the retro 1 SMD LED’s from Comet, all the same, frosted warm for just about everything as I want the closest thing to incandescents and I prefer the yellow\orange tint. I also forgot about the whole dimming effect when midnight occurs as again it has always had LED’s and didn’t remember from when I last played this in the early 90’s.

I kept reading threads, watching videos, etc. and I came across some older videos of Funhouses with incandescents and actually liked the look of it and this had me 2nd guessing myself. When I got the Funhouse, the old incandescents came with the game so I created a DIY bulb checker (for Wedges and Bayonets) and started testing the incandescents compared to all kinds of LED’s (Warm White, Sunlight, Cool White, Colored, etc.) and I really liked the incandescents a lot more. Don’t get me wrong the warm white is about the closest there is but it just still isn’t the same and I just don’t really care for the REALLY BRIGHT LED look, at least not for this game as compared to the bright incandescent look. I have an MMR and it’s only LED but the way they did it, makes it really look like incandescents. Now my Metallica LED Pro on the other hand is in your face but it works for that game in my opinion.

So, now I was thinking I’ll go incandescents but for every post advocating the benefits, there were the same number of posts stating the regular claims of melting plastics, warping inserts, inserts will come out of the playfield, burning GI connectors, etc. Then again, there were the same number of posts where users say they have none of those issues with their incandescents and that’s really only if you keep your machine on 12 or more hours a day, everyday.

My next thought was ok, I’ll switch the backbox to LED to help with the potential of burning the GI connectors and then use incandescents everywhere else. But I’m still on the fence with using incandescents for the inserts as too many posts and others advice still say that they will eventually ruin the inserts. I am having Ron Kruzman clear my new Mirco playfield I got back in 2015, so suffice to say, I do not want to do anything that could promote damage.

Regarding the above PF GI, it seems using incandescents is favored by a lot of people and there is minimal risk of damage, so that just leaves me with the inserts under the playfield and my only other thought is to just use non-ghosting LED’s as while the OCD boards do look amazing, I’m not sure it would be worth it for me, but I also have Zero experience with the OCD boards.

Ok, that should hopefully give everyone a better idea on where I started and where I am at today.

I really appreciate all the feedback and advice.

Have a great and safe rest of the week.

#2 5 months ago

If you’re already looking at the OCD board. That will restore the ability to “fade” like incandescent bulbs. Led all the way. Less power draw, less strain on connectors, less heat. Home use or not those are major benefits. I LED every Bally/Williams game I have because they used too many bulbs on the GI circuits and that’s why they burn so often. The only thing I leave incandescent is the flashers and it depends on the game. I put LED flashers in Taxi and it looks ok but the regular flashers look incredible on Whirlwind. Comet also does sell 455 blinking bulbs in fast and slow if you’re wanting to swap those over

#3 5 months ago

Just my opinion, but none of these machines were designed for a 30+ year service life. Even with a machine off, wood moves with humidity, capacitors dry out, and the insert glue ages. I feel like LEDs reduce the strain on the whole machine for a minimal change in looks. With well chosen LEDs, I only think about the difference when I see the LEDs next to incandescents.

#4 5 months ago

100% LEDs. HOWEVER. I would recommend leaving the flashers as incandecent. The first non-kit LED conversion kit I ever did was a Jurassic Park. All natural light 2 SMD LEDs from Comet (looked great!). I also added 8 SMD flashers. That... was a mistake. I have never come as close to having a seizure as I had the first time those flashers went off. Like... I'm talking blind spots for seconds. If you do LED flashers and go too bright, you can always block out some of the SMDs with electrical tape.

#5 5 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

100% LEDs. HOWEVER. I would recommend leaving the flashers as incandecent. The first non-kit LED conversion kit I ever did was a Jurassic Park. All natural light 2 SMD LEDs from Comet (looked great!). I also added 8 SMD flashers. That... was a mistake. I have never come as close to having a seizure as I had the first time those flashers went off. Like... I'm talking blind spots for seconds. If you do LED flashers and go too bright, you can always block out some of the SMDs with electrical tape.

use 5smd flashers.

#6 5 months ago

When I did my restoration, I went with the Cointaker LED kit for everything in the game...and people commented on how good it looked. I'm an incandescent guy for the older games, but with funhouse, the cool white GI bulbs and LEDs worked really well with the theme. That being said, do yourself a favor (as mentioned before) and splurge for the LED OCD boards, for both inserts and GI. When the GI dims at midnight, you'll be glad you did.

#7 5 months ago

Thanks everyone for all the feedback.

After reviewing all the instructions for the OCD boards, both GI AND LED, it seems like something right up my alley as I like to customize everything when it comes to computers and technology. I’ll also be getting a Pinsound board for the same reason as well as my Sample machine doesn’t use a WPC audio board so I am unable to use the latest L9 rom and current sound so this way I won’t alter any boards and can easily convert it back to original if I ever need to. I will have to do the jumper mod but that’s easily reversible.

Ok, so going the LED route, I got some samples from Comet, their retro line and their warm is very close to the incandescent look but I am leaning towards the faceted 2 smd bulbs for above PF GI. They are A LOT brighter but with the OCD boards, I can make them as bright or as dim as possible. I’m not sure what to use on the inserts so any advice would be great.

Lastly, the only incandescents I am still on the fence of continuing to use are the backbox 455 flashers as they are more random than any other LED’s I’ve tried but it was a while ago so they could be better now.

Regarding 906 flashers, I’ve seen a lot of advice to actually use incandescents due to the harsh brightness of the LED ones, so not sure about those.

Thanks again everyone for the help and feedback. I’m a good ways away as I’m getting close to priming, painting and decaling the cab and won’t have my Kruzman playfield until earliest September.

Stay safe everyone.

#8 5 months ago
Quoted from ED-209:

Thanks everyone for all the feedback.
After reviewing all the instructions for the OCD boards, both GI AND LED, it seems like something right up my alley as I like to customize everything when it comes to computers and technology. I’ll also be getting a Pinsound board for the same reason as well as my Sample machine doesn’t use a WPC audio board so I am unable to use the latest L9 rom and current sound so this way I won’t alter any boards and can easily convert it back to original if I ever need to. I will have to do the jumper mod but that’s easily reversible.
Ok, so going the LED route, I got some samples from Comet, their retro line and their warm is very close to the incandescent look but I am leaning towards the faceted 2 smd bulbs for above PF GI. They are A LOT brighter but with the OCD boards, I can make them as bright or as dim as possible. I’m not sure what to use on the inserts so any advice would be great.
Lastly, the only incandescents I am still on the fence of continuing to use are the backbox 455 flashers as they are more random than any other LED’s I’ve tried but it was a while ago so they could be better now.
Regarding 906 flashers, I’ve seen a lot of advice to actually use incandescents due to the harsh brightness of the LED ones, so not sure about those.
Thanks again everyone for the help and feedback. I’m a good ways away as I’m getting close to priming, painting and decaling the cab and won’t have my Kruzman playfield until earliest September.
Stay safe everyone.

Put all leds.
455 led blinkers
5smd flashers for the #906 bulbs
8smd for any #89 bulbs

Use 2smd frosted sunlight throughout. In all cases.

Cool white for flashers.

It works really well.

Ledocd and giocd is a life changer.

(Yes its cocktail hour...)

#9 5 months ago

Thanks again everyone for the advice and feedback.

I’ve gone ahead and ordered the OCD boards (both) and will soon be ordering the sunlight frosted LED’s.

I think for now I will continue to use the incandescent flashers and maybe in the future try LED’s.

Regarding the 455 blinkers, I came across a post in the Club LED OCD thread where the 455 LED flashers won’t work right unless you install a capacitor due to the PWM, so I’ll continue to use the incandescents for those for now.

Thanks again and stay safe everyone.

Ed

#10 5 months ago

Bah, why spend $100s to make it look like it would with incandescents?

Don't mind me, I'm disillusioned with LEDs at the moment, been playing my ST a lot and I'm wondering how to tone down the brightness and flashing, at times I can't even see the ball(s)!

#11 5 months ago

I recommend 1smd bulbs for inserts. That's what I did on my FH and even turned the brighness down using the ocd software. I also used 1smd in gi but 2smd will be fine since brightness can be adjusted with the ocd boards.

I used Comet 455 blinking bulbs and they work fine with the ocd boards. I did not replace the flashers, though. There really is not much benefit going with led flashers other than if one locks on it won't melt plastics.

#12 5 months ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

I recommend 1smd bulbs for inserts. That's what I did on my FH and even turned the brighness down using the ocd software. I also used 1smd in gi but 2smd will be fine since brightness can be adjusted with the ocd boards.
I used Comet 455 blinking bulbs and they work fine with the ocd boards. I did not replace the flashers, though. There really is not much benefit going with led flashers other than if one locks on it won't melt plastics.

Cool deal, I’ll try the 455 blinker LED’s to see. I was gonna try the dim ones too but they didn’t have them in Sunlight and think it will look better if I keep them all the same color scheme so got some slow and fast and was able to add it to my other order.

Thanks again for the help.

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