(Topic ID: 233169)

Funhouse - replacement driver board?


By Calipindave

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by pinballplusMN
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 1 year ago

Hi guys.

My Funhouse has been through various states of restoration for a few years and is sporting a nice new PF. It was a project game when I got it.

I played it for a while but the gameroom went quiet. Now the kids are teenagers and are having friends playing again. (yeah).

Funhouse had some intermittent resets which I didn't address so now I am getting back to it. A few things I have noticed are that it isn't a warm up thing. It can be a bit random. I have had it happen with heavy play multiball and just normal game play. Sometimes it will be OK for a while and then it will restart and then do it again shortly after.

Voltage on the usual connectors is withing range. (J104 etc). I am seeing about 4.82v on TP2 at start up and about 4.9 after warm up. I know that this is a bit low. Is that voltage low enough to start the usual array of restart tests?

Here is the real question/observation. The driver board is a kludge of previous repairs, new solder joints a few wire jumpers etc. Do I run myself around working through all the usual stuff. I checked the solder joints on connectors and the like and reflowed some of them. The LM3232 looks like its been either replaced or resoldered and doesn't look that good. All in all I am not confident in the quality of the work.

At the same time, I am not keen on spending $ 300 on a new board. I am not averse to replacing it with a known good used board either.

Suggestions are invited.

Thanks

Dave

#2 1 year ago

Do you want to spend your time playing. Or do you want to spend your time repairing ?

Board you have or a good used board may need repairs and continue down that path.

LTG : )

#3 1 year ago

Good points Lloyd. I enjoy some tinkering no doubt but I prefer playing. I suspect I will be tinkering with the existing board endlessly.

Is the 4.9 volts low enough to be the start point in saying it’s in the board and it’s various components.?

If that’s the case then I may not want to spend much more time on this board. I am willing to try a few hey try this ideas.

If I could find a decent working used board out of a game maybe being parted out I would consider it as long as it looks clean and unhacked.

In the end I will spend the $300 if need be, would just like to kick that can down the road if possible,

Thanks

Dave

#4 1 year ago
Quoted from Calipindave:

Is the 4.9 volts low enough

That's an issue if 4.9 is leaving the board. Then more board repairs.

LTG : )

#5 1 year ago

My bsd suffered from resets at 4.9. I replaced the bridges and caps and no more resets. As it was explained to me, the voltage is dropping quicker than a dmm can register. So while it shows 4.9 it may drop much lower for a bit. But it happens so fast the dmm can’t see it and display in time.
Honestly I would replace the board. And either fix the old one or get another as a spare.

#6 1 year ago

Couple ways you can go....

1) pinwiki calls this a 'hack' but I don't agree since the manufacturer of the regulator says it's valid - you add a resistor to it and cut a trace to tune the output. Just because Williams didn't issue a service bulletin saying this or make the board 'support' it doesn't mean that it's a 'hack' - and it works.

2) get the kahr +5 replacement regulator and call it a day.

Post pics of what's been hacked at already - is it just the old mantra of br/cap replacement with added jumpers or is there more going on? It is probably worth it to reverse all the actual hacks you can and repair it correctly. Also depends on what you like doing more do you like repairing stuff or do you just want it to play? Get a new board if you just want to play and sell the old one, don't even fool around with repairing it. If the new board fails so catastrophically that it can't be fixed, you're still in the same position you are now - and you can just buy another new board at that point.

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from slochar:

Couple ways you can go....
1) pinwiki calls this a 'hack' but I don't agree since the manufacturer of the regulator says it's valid - you add a resistor to it and cut a trace to tune the output. Just because Williams didn't issue a service bulletin saying this or make the board 'support' it doesn't mean that it's a 'hack' - and it works.
2) get the kahr +5 replacement regulator and call it a day.
Post pics of what's been hacked at already - is it just the old mantra of br/cap replacement with added jumpers or is there more going on? It is probably worth it to reverse all the actual hacks you can and repair it correctly. Also depends on what you like doing more do you like repairing stuff or do you just want it to play? Get a new board if you just want to play and sell the old one, don't even fool around with repairing it. If the new board fails so catastrophically that it can't be fixed, you're still in the same position you are now - and you can just buy another new board at that point.

I like your thinking on this issue. Especially the first one.
Unless I'm missing something here... why not just send the board out to get repaired and bulletproofed?

#8 1 year ago

Thanks guys for the direction.

I hadn’t seen the kahr board previously and is definitely interesting:

http://www.kahr.us/daughterboard.html Correct?

Slochar I don’t mind working on it but don’t want to make a career out of this board. Clearly there have been brs and caps worked in but I’m not certain they have been replaced. There are large blobs of solder where there might have been attempts to deal with lifted traces and at least one cap had a wire soldered to a keg to get around what must be a bad trace.

Everything is working fine though aside from the resets. TP2 is stable at around 4.9 volts. Perhaps the Kahr board at a relatively inexpensive price would keep things going for now

Mollyspub: I wouldn’t mind sending it out for repair assuming that it won’t be seen as too far gone. I have seen some posts about ineffective repair done so I will dig around the forum to see who is getting the best feedback.

Dave

#10 1 year ago

Sometimes the plug that has ac coming in on the righr side of driver board becomes marginalized over time. This can cause resets as well. Ive had some games where repinning this connector has resolved reset issues.

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