(Topic ID: 198997)

Funhouse Playfield Swap Now in Progress


By bkaelin

1 year ago



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  • 28 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 months ago by bkaelin
  • Topic is favorited by 8 Pinsiders

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#1 1 year ago

Well, I have had a new playfield for a while now, and I don't know happened. Something snapped. I just went into playfield swap mode. It was like I was possessed. Pulled the playfield and mounted it in the rotisserie that has been sitting collecting dust, waiting for this moment. The new pf is beautiful...amazing, like a work of art, almost too good to put into a game. But I am compelled to action.
Hopefully along the way, I won't totally jack this up. It is my first attempt to swap a playfield, and I have read and read and read about it, but been too intimidated to try. Carpe Diem. Hopefully I won't break the first rule of pf swapping (giving up).
Wish me luck.

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#2 1 year ago

im watching this , give lots of updates please.These are my favorite threads!

#3 1 year ago

By the way, I have been experimenting with different methods to hold the playfield to the rotisserie. Is there a preferred method that will ensure a secure grip?

#4 1 year ago

Good luck with this. I just finished up my FH playfield swap a few months ago. I love it. I got the playfield about 14 years ago and dragged it back and forth across the US. I could not get myself to start it, partially because new playfields at that time did not have all the holes drilled. I warmed up by doing a swap on Silverball Mania and Strikes & Spares, then tackled this. Took me months. It will be great.
I took about 1,600 photos as I disassembled. No matter how many I take, I sometimes miss something. If you need a photo, let me know.

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#5 1 year ago
Quoted from bkaelin:

By the way, I have been experimenting with different methods to hold the playfield to the rotisserie. Is there a preferred method that will ensure a secure grip?

For the upper playfield, I remove a couple of the wood screws holding the wood edge and then put in longer wood screws through the rotisserie. If removing the wood edge, like in a playfield transfer or if you want to paint the wood, I just put screws through the existing holes. I always add washers to both sides.

The lower playfield is tougher. I have used clamps in the past, but one stinkin' time they came off. If you are careful about checking the clamps prior to each use, I guess you can go with clamps. I look for existing holes near the edge and use them. But with some pins, there are none. I know this is heresy, but I will now drill two or three small holes near the edge and screw the rotisserie to the playfield there. They are hidden, under the apron, no one will ever see them, and most pins have then there anyway. When I am done, if I feel like it, I coat the holes with poly and they look like they are factory.

BTW, my (and most) rotisseries support the playfield only at the ends. I like to put back on the left/right wood edges on the new playfield as soon as possible. They strengthen the playfield and keep it from sagging. As I add weight back onto the playfield, it can start to sag and I worry about damage or planking.

If doing a poly, be sure to let the poly cure for about a week prior to putting anything back on the playfield.

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from bkaelin:

Carpe Diem. Hopefully I won't break the first rule of pf swapping (giving up).
Wish me luck.

I just finished one for a Friend/Customer. I must admit I nearly gave up and wanted to return it BUT I am so glad I didn't, as having it completed with no switch errors, playing and looking new is EXTREMELY SATISFYING! Samples of Completed Machine;
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#7 1 year ago

What PF did you end up getting to swap? Mirco?

Contemplating doing this myself at some point. keep us posted!

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

What PF did you end up getting to swap? Mirco?
Contemplating doing this myself at some point. keep us posted!

Picked up a Mirco playfield. Hoping to work on it this weekend!!!

3 weeks later
#9 1 year ago

OK, so it's pretty slow going, and mostly, it's gone well.

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#10 1 year ago

So I am a little intimidated by the pop bumpers. I need some encouragement. How hard are they? Any helpful suggestions?

#11 1 year ago

They are easy. Don’t be intimidated! If you can do a swap, you can do pops.

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from pintechev:

They are easy. Don’t be intimidated! If you can do a swap, you can do pops.

You can do it. I had never done a pop bumper swap until I restored the one in the pictures above. YOU CAN DO IT!

#13 1 year ago
Quoted from bkaelin:

So I am a little intimidated by the pop bumpers. I need some encouragement. How hard are they? Any helpful suggestions?

I use this every time, just for reference. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-rebuilding-pop-bumpers

#14 1 year ago
1 month later
#15 1 year ago

How's it coming along? A little bird tells me santa is bringing me a new FH PF from mirco but I dont anticipate starting this until later next year. For now I am reading up on all the FH restore threads so I can start assembling all the parts I'll need.

1 month later
#16 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

How's it coming along? A little bird tells me santa is bringing me a new FH PF from mirco but I dont anticipate starting this until later next year. For now I am reading up on all the FH restore threads so I can start assembling all the parts I'll need.

Thanks for asking....it is slow. Life gets in the way, but it's all good. I will get going on it again in two weeks if all goes to plan. I am still stripping the old pf, and I don't think I have done any permanent damage to the new pf....yet. But I did notice that if you crank down too much on the playfield posts, you might get some bubbling or delamination (sp?) of the top coat. I have had a couple of spots do that, but not too bad (cue the wise ones, telling me what I did wrong...bring it on).

#17 1 year ago
Quoted from bkaelin:

Thanks for asking....it is slow. Life gets in the way, but it's all good. I will get going on it again in two weeks if all goes to plan. I am still stripping the old pf, and I don't think I have done any permanent damage to the new pf....yet. But I did notice that if you crank down too much on the playfield posts, you might get some bubbling or delamination (sp?) of the top coat. I have had a couple of spots do that, but not too bad (cue the wise ones, telling me what I did wrong...bring it on).

Nice to hear! and I hear ya about life getting in the way. I got my PF and I have just been gathering all the parts needed before I start my own swap.

1 month later
#18 1 year ago

Finally, progress!!!
almost done labelling and prepping. I have transferred most of the big/complicated stuff over. This week I am hoping to get the harness transferred.

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#19 1 year ago

Today I detached everything and/or transferred everything over except the pop bumpers and the wiring harness/switches/bulbs. For some reason I have been postponing the pops because I perceive them as more difficult that other stuff. So I am getting closer!!!

#20 1 year ago

Looking good, I am nearly finished removing everything from mine: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-my-first-restoration-help-me-not-botch-this/page/3

While populating the new PF, have any issues with the holes (have to add any?) or the clear (need to open any up or grind any of the clear away?)

Will be awhile before I am there, need to do the cab/decals first.

#21 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Looking good, I am nearly finished removing everything from mine: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-my-first-restoration-help-me-not-botch-this/page/3
While populating the new PF, have any issues with the holes (have to add any?) or the clear (need to open any up or grind any of the clear away?)
Will be awhile before I am there, need to do the cab/decals first.

I drilled out the existing holes a bit, just to help in the event of too much clear, but not much, and the holes thus far have been pretty good. No major issues yet (knock on wood).

#22 1 year ago

So this is pretty satisfying actually. The old PF is empty. Let the madness continue.

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#23 1 year ago

how did taking off and putting on the pops go? just stopped for the evening and that is the last part on the underside for me.

#24 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

how did taking off and putting on the pops go? just stopped for the evening and that is the last part on the underside for me.

Well, actually, the pops weren't so bad. They seemed to go together pretty easily.
I am hoping for good results once I get this thing all back together.

1 month later
#25 1 year ago

Getting awful close to being done. I have a question for anyone.....When powering the game back on for the first time, are there any safety measures to take, like unplugging power to flippers or solenoids or anything?
I don't want to blow anything up, things have gone really well, and I don't want to screw things up while I am at the finish line.
Thoughts?

#26 1 year ago

Ok, I powered it up, and nothing blew up. I've gradually got everything plugged in (except for some items on the top of the playfield), and so far, so good.
the wiring is still needing to be cleaned up a bit, but not bad for a first time through. Fingers crossed that I will get it done before summer hits.

I still have a short list of things to do:
1 red and 1 white flasher appear to be reversed

Solder one light on playfield
Solder the eject coil
Replace one screw top center post with a with a flat top post
Replace mouth switch
Replace broken switch on outlane
Add coil bumpers where needed
Adjust wires and wire guide and zip tie as needed
Check pop bumper assemblies for proper installation and operation
Replace rear playfield blue wood
Replace ball launch trim
Replace plastics and ramps
Tighten one or two posts

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#27 1 year ago

Oh, I also need to figure out why Rudy's eyes aren't working. Before the swap his eyes weren't moving left or right, now they are not doing anything.

1 month later
#28 12 months ago

Fixed the eyes!!!
Almost done. There are a few tweaks left to fully dial it in, but all the switches, and coils are good.
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