(Topic ID: 206157)

Funhouse - My first restoration (help me not botch this!)


By arcadenerd925

1 year ago



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  • Latest reply 10 months ago by arcadenerd925
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There are 266 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 6.
#201 1 year ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Having never done cabinet decals but having lots of paint experience, I have to ask why are people painting the entire cabinet the base color if 99.9% gets covered by the decal? Seems like a waste of time and material that increases the odds of incorporating flaws. Couldn't one spray a very light feathered edge coat of base color just around the tiniest part of the perimeter (think airbrush rather than big hvlp gun) thereby minimally affecting the hard won baby's butt smooth primer surface?

That is exactly what I do. All you need to do is seal the wood where the decals go. Primer does that just fine.

#202 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

So in that case, the purple edges.. was that latex paint? if so, were you able to sand/smooth it? (or not an issue because it was smooth enough feathered)
I did not full on paint the sides, but its certainly got more paint on it than your pic.

That was latex paint, yes. I think very similar to what you purchased. I sprayed it with an HVLP and did my best to feather it. Once it was dry, I took the edges down by sanding, you can't see it there in that photo.

This was all based on bryan_kelly's advice, and honestly, you won't see a better, smoother decal application. As bryan_kelly says, you don't need it to be "glass smooth," so you can go too far, but imperfections definitely carry up through the decal if you're not careful. A hard painted edge would be visible so best to sand it down.

#203 1 year ago

Oh, nevermind, right from the source.

#204 1 year ago

Thanks, that really helps. Going to try hand sanding with 400 grit first and see how smooth i can get it before pulling out the power sander if all else fails.

#205 1 year ago

Hand sanding worked fine, started with a slightly coarser grit and then moved up to a finer one.

So now all the surfaces that will have the decals applied are super smooth again.

20180626_192629 (resized).jpg
#206 1 year ago

Quick question regarding BW HD leg bracket install posted here if anyone has done this before:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/re-installing-bw-hd-leg-brackets-question-doesn-t-sit-flush#post-4475297

#207 1 year ago

Made a crude coin door insert on the scroll saw.

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Installing decals dry so I used some weights to hold it down while I lined things up (shined a flashlight through the start button hole and used that as my reference point)

20180628_195639 (resized).jpg

No more excuses, time to get it done. I have never applied any kind of vinyl decal before so of course my fear was that I would totally F*&^* it up. I watched as many videos as I could watching others do it and prepared myself as best I could with the right tools.

20180628_225013 (resized).jpg

Very pleased with how the front came out.

Only one minor hiccup: While peeling back one side (with the weights holding down the other) one corner creased just a tiny bit. I did not realize how thin the material is. Luckily, 80% of the crease was cut out for the left leg protector. What was left wasn't very noticeable.. however, I used my heat tool set very low to warm up the vinyl which allowed me to smooth out the crease. Not even noticeable now. Awesome.

#208 1 year ago

With the front done, my confidence was much more solid. Time to do the sides.

20180630_155110 (resized).jpg

For the bottom and back/top I used a straight edge to cut. Otherwise, I carefully "scraped" a fresh blade along the edge at a 45 degree angle.

#209 1 year ago

Next up: touch up the corners to match the decal.

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Even got a little help

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#210 1 year ago

With the cab protectors on, I really wanted to get the legs back on this beast.

I had purchased the HD leg brackets but noticed they did not sit flush in the corner. I felt like the gap was too big to simply be "pulled in".

I screwed in the leg bolts to the new bracket, added washers and tightened it up. That seemed to work fine (and at the very least, It's much stronger than the original dinky ones I replaced)

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#211 1 year ago

In prep for putting the backbox (and then later, coin door) back on, I needed to address the hardware.

I decided to sand the paint/rust off the bolts and then spray them with Rustoleum black "Hammered Finish"

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#212 1 year ago

With the bolts done, the backbox came together nicely.

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(Note: I will be moving the batteries off the board, but wanted to wait until I decide where to mount the LED and GI OCD boards)

#213 1 year ago

Back on her feet again!

In retrospect:

- Surface prep: Glad I sanded smooth the final coat before decal application. They aren't joking when they say any surface irregularity will show through. That being said, I feel like I did a pretty damn good job on the bondo/sanding/priming stage.

- Trimming vinyl: On my next restore, I am leaning towards using a straight edge for all edges/corners. While I feel I did fine holding the blade right on the edge, it left little margin for error. It takes a serious steady hand for those sweeping all-in-one fluid motions to really get a perfect cut.

- Paint color: I was tripping over nothing, the color match is nearly perfect. Very happy with how it looks.

- Ground braid: I went back and forth on this. I do not posses a pneumatic staple gun (let alone a narrow crown long nose one for upholstery, which is what most seemed to recommend). In the end, I opted for a cheaper one (that wasn't a long nose, but still narrow crown): amazon.com link » This worked fine for me.

- Trim: I decided to go chrome for the rails and hinge (very happy with how it looks). I will probably add the legs to match and I am still on the fence when it comes to the shooter housing (we'll see)

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Next up: Lockdown receiver/bar, coin door, transformer, speaker and then install the cabinet parts/wiring harness.

Also need to put together my first big marco order for populating the new PF.

#214 1 year ago

Anyone who has done this for the first time, knows the challenges you've gone through. There is definitely a learning curve, as you've found out. For a first time, it looks damn nice!

#215 1 year ago

Looks great, I think chrome is the best choice for Funhouse.

#216 1 year ago

FACK that looks good man!! I'm behind you but keeping my eye on you!! Nice!

You must feel like a million bucks standing looking at that on its legs and looking fine!

#217 1 year ago

What a relief looking all your troubles lifting and seeing this beauty !
Fine work !!

#218 1 year ago

Looking good!

FunHouse is an amazing game!

#219 1 year ago
Quoted from Skypilot:

Looks great, I think chrome is the best choice for Funhouse.

Yeah I am liking the chrome too, glad I took the plunge there (going to go ahead and get the matching shooter housings and legs)

#220 1 year ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Anyone who has done this for the first time, knows the challenges you've gone through. There is definitely a learning curve, as you've found out. For a first time, it looks damn nice!

Thanks! Definitely a learning experience. While I don't see myself doing restores often, when I do tackle another one I will def be more prepared.

#221 1 year ago

First big marco order sent!

My assumption on next steps:

1. Install cabinet wiring (while I wait for the marco order)

2. Tumble/clean/polish topside metal parts

3. Light sand/brush on clear of the underside of the new PF

4. Make some sort of t-nut installation tool (a-la: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/t-nut-install-driver#post-1832318)

5. Drill out old and install new ramp flaps

#222 1 year ago

Looking good!

#223 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

First big marco order sent!
My assumption on next steps:
1. Install cabinet wiring (while I wait for the marco order)
2. Tumble/clean/polish topside metal parts
3. Light sand/brush on clear of the underside of the new PF
4. Make some sort of t-nut installation tool (a-la: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/t-nut-install-driver#post-1832318)
5. Drill out old and install new ramp flaps

T-nut installation tool = hammer

#224 1 year ago
Quoted from Davi:

T-nut installation tool = hammer

I don't recommend hammering a playfield. The screw installation tool method works great and draws in the t-nut very nicely. MY ONLY CAUTION using a tool like this is that the washer or surface making contact with the playfield be as large as possible (possibly be covered with felt) and that clear coat be fully cured or you'll end up making a nice felt-like stamp in the clear.

#225 1 year ago

This is looking wonderful dude!! arcadenerd925

#226 1 year ago

Question: Need to remove all ramp rivets to get ready for the new flaps.

Figured I would just drill them out (never removed one before) but started youtubing the process and I guess if the rivet spins it can start melting the plastic.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-remove-rivets

My thought process is:

- Start with the drill, if I get to the point where its spinning, stop, switch to the cutting wheel on a dremel to cut off the back lip and punch it out.

Does this sound about right?

#227 1 year ago

arcadenerd925 I’ll let others chime in, but yes your correct, if the rivet spins it can destroy the plastic quickly. I found using using a dremmel or rotary tool
With a cutting wheel can work well also just have to be slow and patient

#228 1 year ago

So now that the latex paint had been down for a week or so, how is the duribility? Does it scratch easy?

#229 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Question: Need to remove all ramp rivets to get ready for the new flaps.
Figured I would just drill them out (never removed one before) but started youtubing the process and I guess if the rivet spins it can start melting the plastic.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-remove-rivets
My thought process is:
- Start with the drill, if I get to the point where its spinning, stop, switch to the cutting wheel on a dremel to cut off the back lip and punch it out.
Does this sound about right?

Just remember, the Dremel can cause heat too. I like to drill them out but I'll clench the rivet tight before I start the process.

#230 1 year ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Just remember, the Dremel can cause heat too. I like to drill them out but I'll clench the rivet tight before I start the process.

Can you elaborate on the "clench the rivet tight" part?

#231 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Can you elaborate on the "clench the rivet tight" part?

If the rivet spins when you try to drill it out, put it in your press and tighten it up.

#232 1 year ago
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

So now that the latex paint had been down for a week or so, how is the duribility? Does it scratch easy?

So far, feels very durable. I went with high quality exterior paint. It's also laid down over a couple coats of primer and 2 good solid spray'd coats of blue.

#233 1 year ago

Ugh.

So two of the flaps came off easy (entry metal ramp and the trap door) but im having problems with the ramps. First one I tried, the rivet is just spinning. I got some of the back off but not enough (tapping it with a punch and it just isnt budging)

Going to stop for the night and re-group before I bust the ramps. Assuming I need to switch to the dremel/cutting wheel.

#234 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Ugh.
So two of the flaps came off easy (entry metal ramp and the trap door) but im having problems with the ramps. First one I tried, the rivet is just spinning. I got some of the back off but not enough (tapping it with a punch and it just isnt budging)
Going to stop for the night and re-group before I bust the ramps. Assuming I need to switch to the dremel/cutting wheel.

If the rivet spins when you try to drill it out, put it in your press and tighten it up.

#235 1 year ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

If the rivet spins when you try to drill it out, put it in your press and tighten it up.

Awesome

3 weeks later
#236 1 year ago

had to pause this restore to get new floors. ugh, not fun.

finally back at it.

frustrated with drilling out the rivets, I tried to grind the back off using my dremel... nope

that's when i came up with plan C.. i used some pliers/wrenches to hold the washer on the back while I drilled.

poof. out.. finally!

I have the new flap kit from pinbits. it comes with those little lock sleeves/rings/whatever and a small plastic tool to install them. has anyone ever used these?

I think I am going to take up the kind offers on pinside to use someone else' rivet press.

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#237 1 year ago

Quick update: Got the new flaps installed thanks to @mschonbrun

Next, i finished wiring everything up in the cab and plugging everything (but the PF of course) back in.

Fun house lives! (kinda)

Next up, populate the new PF!

Question (if anyone is still following the worlds longest FH restore thread): I noticed when I took off the ball guides, that some really dug in to the PF. Should I put a washer down where those bolts are riveted to the guide and go through the PF?

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#238 1 year ago

Going to post this in the funhouse club, but figured I would put this here as well.

After the trap door, there is the plastic that gets screwed down to the PF. Should there be pilot holes here? looks like it's just dimples.

Funhouse_Trap_Door (resized).jpg

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#239 1 year ago

Looks great Steve....all your hard work is paying off

#240 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Looks great Steve....all your hard work is paying off

Thanks! you and Nick will have to come over for some brews and pinball once she's done.

#241 1 year ago

No turning back now, time to get this damn thing done. heh

Goal is to finish by the end of the weekend (I have a feeling I'm not going to get much sleep)

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#242 1 year ago

Looking good man! Once you get some momentum it will become less of a mountain

3 weeks later
#243 1 year ago

Hey arcadenerd925 what did u use to paint the cab? Cans or spray gun

#244 1 year ago

I used a Wagner sprayer (plugin, not air powered) that boasted it could spray un-thinned laytex. After some tests, I still thinned it with maybe 5-7% windex (what some dudes in another thread told me to do, heh) and it came out perfect.

#245 1 year ago

Well, here i am.. 25 days after my "I'm going to get it done by the end of the weekend" proclamation.

I thought the easy part was done... The holes in the new PF are drilled, dimpled... screw some shit in, hook some stuff up.. BAM. done.

one word.

nope

by the end of the weekend I was frustrated and defeated. Nothing went wrong, I didn't crack the clear, skid the drill across the PF or anything like that. It's just that... every part of re-populating the PF took 20 times longer than I thought it would.

I decided to disappear for a bit and just try to sort this out over the next 3 weeks.

I had to:

- Widen holes that were the wrong size
- Drill through the holes that were the wrong size and did not go all the way through the PF
- Route down the recessed area underneath the steps ramp so it would sit flush (not sure whose fault that was, probably the repro ramp)
- Tweak several of the repro plastics so they would fit (the one behind the trap door is missing the flange that fits under the trap door hinge... WTF)

Next up, game time. time to get that bad boy off the rotisserie and back in to the game, that actually went fairly smooth. but of course more fun was to follow.

When doing the cab, I had routed out a bit more to the left of the steps ramp shooter as I had heard it doesn't line up to the new PF. Once I put the housing on I could see I still wasnt dead on and steps ramps shots where just bouncing around the posts instead of going up the ram. UGH. so i busted out the dremel and took a bit more off... THEN, the housing over that shooter lane kept holding the ball in a funky spot, so i had to bend that too. (similar follies on the right side housing as well)

The icing on the cake.... re-attaching one plastic I forgot about while the PF was up in the service position.. I dropped the nut and it fell down the back (oribt shot against the ball guide). There was no way to get to it without taking the ramps off (or the PF back out). fuck that, heh, At 11pm and with no patience, I used a magnet rod that i bended and tweaked so that it could go around Rudy's head and get to the nut. Of course, I couldnt get the nut to stick, but i moved it enough to where I shot a ball back there and it hit the nut off to the side.. when I brought the PF back up, it fell out the back and into the bottom of the cab. lol. that whole process took 1 hour of my evening (and the success of it was pure luck).

At that point, I was ready to turn this beast back on and see if it explodes..

Nope. it just turned on, lit up and I swear I heard angels sing.

Suddenly all the trials, tribulations, shit, crap and stuff that was way harder than I thought it would be suddenly faded into the back ground.

it worked

i did it

it didn't explode

the usual tweaks needed were minimal; 3 lights had to be reseated, one pop bumper switch adjusted, left flipper gap was too close and that was about it.

(there were a few plastics i did not replace since they had riveted pieces on them, will save that for another day when I get a rivet press in)

Last night I just stood there and played game after game for roughly an hour and just enjoyed what I thought would take 2 weeks (but ended up taking 8 months)

Much props to those that helped me get this done (too many to list), specially Bryan Kelly (whom I owe a 6 pack of livermore's finest, which is next on my todo list) as well as mschonbrun for meeting me at starbucks to rivet the ramp flaps in.

After I enjoy this thing a bit more I will take some time to think about the process in general and things I learned that I feel others would benefit from if they happen to be doing this for the first time as well.

These are crap pics (before i fixed a few of the pastics) but it's a start:

20180909_230845 (resized).jpg20180911_141158 (resized).jpg
#246 1 year ago

Ah... the joy of seeing all your efforts come alive ! Congrats

#247 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Well, here i am.. 25 days after my "I'm going to get it done by the end of the weekend" proclamation.
I thought the easy part was done... The holes in the new PF are drilled, dimpled... screw some shit in, hook some stuff up.. BAM. done.
one word.
nope
by the end of the weekend I was frustrated and defeated. Nothing went wrong, I didn't crack the clear, skid the drill across the PF or anything like that. It's just that... every part of re-populating the PF took 20 times longer than I thought it would.
I decided to disappear for a bit and just try to sort this out over the next 3 weeks.
I had to:
- Widen holes that were the wrong size
- Drill through the holes that were the wrong size and did not go all the way through the PF
- Route down the recessed area underneath the steps ramp so it would sit flush (not sure whose fault that was, probably the repro ramp)
- Tweak several of the repro plastics so they would fit (the one behind the trap door is missing the flange that fits under the trap door hinge... WTF)
Next up, game time. time to get that bad boy off the rotisserie and back in to the game, that actually went fairly smooth. but of course more fun was to follow.
When doing the cab, I had routed out a bit more to the left of the steps ramp shooter as I had heard it doesn't line up to the new PF. Once I put the housing on I could see I still wasnt dead on and steps ramps shots where just bouncing around the posts instead of going up the ram. UGH. so i busted out the dremel and took a bit more off... THEN, the housing over that shooter lane kept holding the ball in a funky spot, so i had to bend that too. (similar follies on the right side housing as well)
The icing on the cake.... re-attaching one plastic I forgot about while the PF was up in the service position.. I dropped the nut and it fell down the back (oribt shot against the ball guide). There was no way to get to it without taking the ramps off (or the PF back out). fuck that, heh, At 11pm and with no patience, I used a magnet rod that i bended and tweaked so that it could go around Rudy's head and get to the nut. Of course, I couldnt get the nut to stick, but i moved it enough to where I shot a ball back there and it hit the nut off to the side.. when I brought the PF back up, it fell out the back and into the bottom of the cab. lol. that whole process took 1 hour of my evening (and the success of it was pure luck).
At that point, I was ready to turn this beast back on and see if it explodes..
Nope. it just turned on, lit up and I swear I heard angels sing.
Suddenly all the trials, tribulations, shit, crap and stuff that was way harder than I thought it would be suddenly faded into the back ground.
it worked
i did it
it didn't explode
the usual tweaks needed were minimal; 3 lights had to be reseated, one pop bumper switch adjusted, left flipper gap was too close and that was about it.
(there were a few plastics i did not replace since they had riveted pieces on them, will save that for another day when I get a rivet press in)
Last night I just stood there and played game after game for roughly an hour and just enjoyed what I thought would take 2 weeks (but ended up taking 8 months)
Much props to those that helped me get this done (too many to list), specially Bryan Kelly (whom I owe a 6 pack of livermore's finest, which is next on my todo list) as well as mschonbrun for meeting me at starbucks to rivet the ramp flaps in.
After I enjoy this thing a bit more I will take some time to think about the process in general and things I learned that I feel others would benefit from if they happen to be doing this for the first time as well.
These are crap pics (before i fixed a few of the pastics) but it's a start:
[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice... Tasteful. I like the overall lighting.
More pic please.
What about the start button?

#248 1 year ago

Looks great Steve....looking forward to seeing it live

#249 1 year ago

Awesome man! Exciting to see the fruits of your labour. I’m behind you, keep an eye on my in your rear view mirror, I’m coming up.

Northerndude

#250 1 year ago

Congratulations!

....riveting ramp flaps at Starbucks. LMFAO! That's not something they see every day....

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