Livermore, CA
Quoted from Soulrider911:Here is what ya need! Found a great rotary diamond bit kit, and they come in different course grit:
amazon.com link »
Nice! thnx! (just ordered it)
(Topic ID: 206157)
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Williams, 1990
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On the chin, try naphta / lighter fluid first, then alcohol, then if it does not help try something abrasive. Novus 2. Then Novus 3 or Magic eraser.
Naphta is great to remove dirt mixed with wax - the black stuff that's on dirty rubber.
Quoted from lb1:On the chin, try naphta / lighter fluid first, then alcohol, then if it does not help try something abrasive. Novus 2. Then Novus 3 or Magic eraser.
Naphta is great to remove dirt mixed with wax - the black stuff that's on dirty rubber.
Yeah, the closer i look at it, the more hopeful I am that it can be cleaned up.
Limassol
Quoted from lb1:On the chin, try naphta / lighter fluid first, then alcohol, then if it does not help try something abrasive. Novus 2. Then Novus 3 or Magic eraser.
Naphta is great to remove dirt mixed with wax - the black stuff that's on dirty rubber.
I would be cautious with alcohol , it can sometimes attack certain kind of plastics , dulling the surface.
Pus one on naphtha , lighter fluid and Novus
Rudy is surprisingly in rather good shape. Previous owners must have kept him up. I had novus 1 nearby so i figured "why not", most of the grime came off the chin. Will follow up with a magic eraser and novus 2 if needed.
I am avoiding tackling the bottom side of the PF. I need a motivational speaker or something to get me psyched up, lol. I assume this is where things start to get a little crazy.
Disconnected everything from the backbox to prep for starting the underside. Holy Sh*@#!.. I'm used to modern pins, like when I got the side art for my GB.. Buddy and I disconnected I think 3 molex connectors under the PF and bam, out it came so we wouldn't have to worry about the PF getting in the way.
This has me seriously reconsidering my plan to break this restore into two phases (PF then Cab). Might need to do this all in one shot.
Onward!
Went back and forth a bit on which way to tackle the underside. Many threads people would do one harness at a time. For me it seems more logical to do all three at once and work counter clockwise from the "end of the line" (where the harnesses end, right below the pops). Since I will not be using this PF afterwards, I elected not to label locations on the PF itself. Instead I am relying on labels directly on the wires/parts combined with lots and lots of pics.
I am going to have to chip away at this as I dont have a ton of free time (hour here, hour there) goal is to be finished with the wiring removal within the next week.
Quoted from PtownPin:Looking great....love that your teaching your daughter how to fix pinball machines
Thanks, I'm lucky to have kids into pinball, hoping it lasts.
Made more progress on the underside removal. slowly but surely, heh.
Starting to think a few steps ahead to the cabinet.
1. Coin door. This one has seen better days. Clean/repaint? or replace? My TZ has a slightly newer style wells/gardner coin door that I like better. Am I killing the nostalgia by replacing the original?
20180320_210938_001 (resized).jpg
2. Best place to get new cab decals from? http://www.pinballdecals.com ??
Quoted from arcadenerd925:Went back and forth a bit on which way to tackle the underside. Many threads people would do one harness at a time. For me it seems more logical to do all three at once and work counter clockwise from the "end of the line" (where the harnesses end, right below the pops). Since I will not be using this PF afterwards, I elected not to label locations on the PF itself. Instead I am relying on labels directly on the wires/parts combined with lots and lots of pics.
I am going to have to chip away at this as I dont have a ton of free time (hour here, hour there) goal is to be finished with the wiring removal within the next week.
The way I see it, you're going to want to wash all the harnesses. To do that, you'll need to separate them and I find the best time to do that is when you remove them. Coils and flashers first, then switches or lamps. The order of the last two doesn't really matter. Separating them also allows me to take better detailed pics showing where everything goes. I don't have to tag anything. My pics show me where everything goes, including wire colors.
Quoted from arcadenerd925:Made more progress on the underside removal. slowly but surely, heh.
Starting to think a few steps ahead to the cabinet.
1. Coin door. This one has seen better days. Clean/repaint? or replace? My TZ has a slightly newer style wells/gardner coin door that I like better. Am I killing the nostalgia by replacing the original?2. Best place to get new cab decals from? http://www.pinballdecals.com ??
Personally, I would just replace the coin door. You won't find new ones that look like the one on TZ.
The decals at Pinball Decals should be fine. They should be from the same supplier as the ones Rick sells at Bay Area Amusements.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:The way I see it, you're going to want to wash all the harnesses. To do that, you'll need to separate them and I find the best time to do that is when you remove them. Coils and flashers first, then switches or lamps. The order of the last two doesn't really matter. Separating them also allows me to take better detailed pics showing where everything goes. I don't have to tag anything. My pics show me where everything goes, including wire colors.
good idea. take the pictures when separating the 2. shows every location. and can clean better.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Personally, I would just replace the coin door. You won't find new ones that look like the one on TZ.
The decals at Pinball Decals should be fine. They should be from the same supplier as the ones Rick sells at Bay Area Amusements.
Thanks Bryan, is there a particular new coin door you would recommend? (or basically get the latest/greatest Happ)
Quoted from arcadenerd925:Thanks Bryan, is there a particular new coin door you would recommend? (or basically get the latest/greatest Happ)
Pinball Life is about as cheap as you'll find.
Budapest
Quoted from Davi:Don't you have a rotisserie?
I do, but since I have been doing this as time permits, I've tried to keep the mess to a minimum. Once I do the cab and start populating the new PF, I will set it up on the rotisserie.
The rotisserie will help a lot. When I have done swaps in the past I leave the harness attached to the old playfield until basically, I'm ready to move it over to the new playfield. I lay the new playfield on a table next to my rotisserie and move it over in one motion... the harness most likely retained its shape and thus makes it easy to get everything roughly back into position in one swoop 
.
Quoted from Soulrider911:The rotisserie will help a lot. When I have done swaps in the past I leave the harness attached to the old playfield until basically, I'm ready to move it over to the new playfield. I lay the new playfield on a table next to my rotisserie and move it over in one motion... the harness most likely retained its shape and thus makes it easy to get everything roughly back into position in one swoop
Agree 100%, this would be my preferred way to do it. But the garage "pin area" is shared space with my wife who has a bunch of sewing machines out there where she crafts. Hence the minimum mess goal (happy wife = happy life, haha)
The other part being, I am going to be cleaning the harnesses (best I can) as well as all the parts. I am also going to do the cab/decals/etc next so I anticipate packing away the PF stuff and harnesses and once finished with the cab will pick a good solid 3 days where I plan to bust out the rotisserie and get it all together.
Quoted from Elicash:Looks like your right flipper has the wrong coil. The orange coils are a step up in power, and FH flippers should both be red coils (FL-11630). You may want to correct before completing the swap. Don't want to crack a ramp or plastic after all your hard work.
Thanks! good to know. I plan to assess the condition of the various parts/coils/switches and then will make my big Marco/PBL orders in the coming weeks.
arcadenerd925 you can very carefully two them from the bottom with a hammer. Depending on how easily they release you may need replacements. Typically you can get them out straight if your patient. However you may as well put new ones in your new playfield
Absolutely buy new ones. There is no need to re-use them. They're tricky to get out, and if you're going to all the trouble of doing a swap, new screws are very small expenditures compared to the overall price you're putting into the game. As for how to get them in, I like using a nut on the bottom of the screw and slowly draw it in by tightening the nut.
Quoted from pintechev:Absolutely buy new ones. There is no need to re-use them. They're tricky to get out, and if you're going to all the trouble of doing a swap, new screws are very small expenditures compared to the overall price you're putting into the game. As for how to get them in, I like using a nut on the bottom of the screw and slowly draw it in by tightening the nut.
Thnx, do i need to check of the countersink around the holes up top is enough or if any clear needs to be taken out?
Quoted from arcadenerd925:how on earth do these come out (and how to I put them in to the new PF, lol)
These are going to look like the one on the left. The fine threads are normal and the course on top are reversed.
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=240
Yes, you just pound them out. No reason to replace them unless the head is worn or you f' one up taking it out.
Before you install them in the new playfield....predrill the holes so the screw is just a tad tight to install. You'll also want to taper the top of the hole so the screw sits flush. Use a drill bit the same diameter as the screw head. Be very careful. If it's just clear you need to remove, try running the drill backwards.
Use a hammer and pound the screw in until the course threads hit the playfield. Now put a washer and nut on the backside and draw the screw in until it's tight. Be careful. You can snap these off if you tighten too much. Don't ask how I know this.
Quoted from pintechev:Absolutely buy new ones. There is no need to re-use them.
No offense, but I couldn't disagree more. I've removed and reinstalled hundreds of these over the years and I've replaced maybe a handful, either because the head was worn or they snapped. Why spend money to replace them when they'll look like new once cleaned and tumbled? I understand they're cheap but I don't see that as a reason to replace them.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:No offense, but I couldn't disagree more. I've removed and reinstalled hundreds of these over the years and I've replaced maybe a handful, either because the head was worn or they snapped. Why spend money to replace them when they'll look like new once cleaned and tumbled? I understand they're cheap but I don't see that as a reason to replace them.
It’s hard to argue with your exerience. For me, I have done two swaps, and on the first one, two of them snapped coming out. It was frustrating and I decided to replace them on the second swap.
I would love to know how you get them out so consistently and I am sure the rest of the site would benefit from that as well.
Quoted from pintechev:I would love to know how you get them out so consistently and I am sure the rest of the site would benefit from that as well.
You're overthinking this. Take a hammer. Hit the backside of the screw. I usually only have to hit it once. Hit it square. If you don't use a hammer well, (hey, some people aren't sure which end to hold on to and which end to swing) you might be in trouble.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:You're overthinking this. Take a hammer. Hit the backside of the screw. I usually only have to hit it once. Hit it square. If you don't use a hammer well, (hey, some people aren't sure which end to hold on to and which end to swing) you might be in trouble.
Didn’t overthink it. For some reason on my TAF, they didn’t budge. Hit it a few times, a couple of screws snapped and then I just replaced them. They tapped right out on CV, clean and easy. TAF just did not want to budge.
This is one of the great things about pinside ..... people willing to help out someone doing something for the first time....you guys are great, and I am sure helping (Steve who is a great guy) with his project...
Quoted from pintechev:Didn’t overthink it. For some reason on my TAF, they didn’t budge. Hit it a few times, a couple of screws snapped and then I just replaced them. They tapped right out on CV, clean and easy. TAF just did not want to budge.
The point I was trying to make was just because something is cheap, doesn't mean you automatically throw the old out and buy new.
I find it fun to restore/reuse as many parts from a game I can.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:The point I was trying to make was just because something is cheap, doesn't mean you automatically throw the old out and buy new.
I find it fun to restore/reuse as many parts from a game I can.
And your results speak for themselves. You’re one of the very best in the world at this. Much respect.
Marc
Quoted from pintechev:And your results speak for themselves. You’re one of the very best in the world at this. Much respect.
Marc
Now you're just makin shit up.
I'm just glad you guys still continue to watch this thread, lol. This is certainly more work than I thought it would be but I am still enjoying the journey regardless. Bout to head out to the garage and get those bad boys out. Should be able to wrap up stripping the PF tonight. Happy Easter everyone.
Boards are out and looking good
20180403_202016 (resized).jpg
But then....
20180403_202131 (resized).jpg
Ohh the mysteries a pinball machine can hide. lol.
Do i send this guy out to coin-op or [insert reputable board repair place here]?
The machine itself has worked fine, no issues, but I'd like this machine to last so if something needs to be repaired or replaced, I'd rather do it now.
I see you've fitted some rechargeables, but still get those batteries into a remote holder, or fit an NVRAM so the batteries can be left out.
I’d recommend ChrisHibler he is one of the best in the industry for board repair, he has repaired a lot of my boards great guy
Quoted from LynnInDenver:I see you've fitted some rechargeables, but still get those batteries into a remote holder, or fit an NVRAM so the batteries can be left out.
Good catch. Yeah I already have a remote holder, debating the NVRAM (if its worth it)
Newmarket, ON
Quoted from Soulrider911:I’d recommend chrishibler he is one of the best in the industry for board repair, he has repaired a lot of my boards great guy
Thanks I will reach out and share the pics.
Quoted from arcadenerd925:Thanks I will reach out and share the pics.
Another good thing to have on hand is a few "static bags" they are static free bags to keep/ship/store your boards in. I work in telecommunications and I handle boards non stop, if its not humid out, a quick *snap isn't great for anything. I have to ground myself non-stop at work while i'm handing/fixing/swapping boards out of sensitive equipment.
If you don't have any at all, I wouldn't be adverse to sending a few out to you or someone.
Quoted from northerndude:Another good thing to have on hand is a few "static bags" they are static free bags to keep/ship/store your boards in. I work in telecommunications and I handle boards non stop, if its not humid out, a quick *snap isn't great for anything. I have to ground myself non-stop at work while i'm handing/fixing/swapping boards out of sensitive equipment.
If you don't have any at all, I wouldn't be adverse to sending a few out to you or someone.
Appreciate the offer, I am in the IT industry myself so I am good on that front.
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