(Topic ID: 206157)

Funhouse - My first restoration (help me not botch this!)


By arcadenerd925

1 year ago



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There are 266 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 6.
#1 1 year ago

Backstory: I purchased my funhouse about a year ago. I had played it at the Pacific Pinball Museum here in the bay area and thought it was fun, but IJ and a few other pins were higher on my wish list. However, my wife LOVED it and it was tops on her list. After picking up a nice TZ, she asked about considering a FH next.. who am I to say no to this? lol.

I found a nice "sample" game from some really friendly fellow pinsiders. Cab was in pretty decent shape, but the decals could definitely use some love. PF was in good shape considering its age. It was also diamond plated and had the original mylar on it. Rudy worked 100% but I had to test manually with the glass pulled activating various switches (early rom, so no rudy tests). Plastics in fairly decent shape, and new ramps.

Fast forward to today.. FH is probably the game I play most out of my collection. It's simple but challenging. The theme, sounds, callouts are all timeless. It's just an all around blast to play. I was not expecting this.

For me, FH is a keeper. I had been eyeing new repro PF's from mirco ever since I saw them at PAGG last year in a vendor booth. Wifey decide to pick one up for Xmas so it looks like this will be my first restoration.

I have read through countless other FH restoration threads so I am hoping to learn as much as possible before I start my own journey.

At this point, I am just kinda putting the overall plan together: What I plan to do, what needs to be replaced/bought/polished/fixed and just the over all how-to's that I need to know. I am generally decently handy both physically, electrically and mechanically.

My plan is to do this in two phases. PF swap and then later, cab restoration.

Any and all help, tips, suggestions, warnings and/or guidance is appreciated!

This will be slow moving at first since I am still in the planning phase. But once I have that nailed down and replacement parts in hand, I am hoping to move quickly.

20171226_133819 (resized).jpg

#2 1 year ago

Congrats on your FH ! My best advice would be to get the machine running as flawlessly as you can first (the most important thing to do imo) and work towards making her pretty. Sounds like you have a fun road ahead of you !

#3 1 year ago

I’ve done a couple of swaps now. The advice is really always the same:

- Take lots of pictures (more than you think you’ll need)

- Label everything for your first swap

- If you have to hammer something into the playfield, stop, you’re doing it wrong.

- Brad tip drill bits only

- reproduction Playfields are not NOS, expect variations, expect dimples to be suggestions measure like 10x and cut once

- go slow

- get new under playfield screws: zinc for the 1/2 screws for thicker metal and bronze colored for the 3/8 for thin metal and lamps. Having different colors make them less prone to mixing up

- buy the right tools. You’ll thank yourself

- never rush shipping from Marco; there is always something else you missed

- expect the tweaking and dialing in period after you’re in the cabinet to take a few days; it won’t just “work” the first time unless you’re lucky.

If you have questions, just ask, lots of great folks here.

#4 1 year ago

Oh, and get a proper drill cage for under the playfield drilling. Nothing worse than drilling too far.

#5 1 year ago

It's the first time I saw one with the old side rails.

#6 1 year ago

Thanks, excellent tips so far.

On the todo list currently:

- Find or build a rotisserie. I potentially have a line on a local used one, will see. Otherwise, I am leaning towards building. Just can't justify $250 for something I will use once, maaaybeee twice (TZ way down the road).

- Order some sample LED's to get a feel for what I want to do bulb wise. For the inserts, I am thinking some of these:

http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1-flux.htm

I am going back and forth on whether or not to color match. I may get a few of each and try it both ways. I assume I definitely will for the blue's, they look really washed out with regular bulbs under them.

- Start putting a list together of the items/parts that I know will need replacing. For starters, all rubber rings and post sleeves.

Onward!

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from lanfeust:

It's the first time I saw one with the old side rails.

Yeah, I am debating keeping these and just re-graining the metal. Gives it a bit of a different look. Not certain yet, so we'll see.

#8 1 year ago

Mine was about $90, but that was in Texas money, so your $250 estimate might be accurate for Cali.

#9 1 year ago

Yes, sadly, everything is more expensive here.

#10 1 year ago

Just finished a FH restore,my second swap, first was a TOTAN. FH seemed more complicated,but,you can do it. Take extra pictures of the trough switch area, seemed tedious. I did the swap side by side on the floor. Don't get in a hurry, lots of patience. There is a thread here with a Tnuts map for a FH, very helpful,you need it. As stated, when you are done, lot of tweaking. I also did my first full cabinet decals on this, what a job. Mirco playfield was easy, expect to have to shim the shooters or playfield supports. Didn't have that problem on a CPR on TOTAN. Good overall quality on the Mirco. You will be proud of it.

#11 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Yes, sadly, everything is more expensive here.

You can likely build one yourself for $100 or so in 1 hour. That does not include the trip to home depot and the paint drying time though.

#12 1 year ago

Also, double check the switches on Rudy's hideout and upper rollovers, mine needed adjusting after playfield was installed. It was rough. Listen for the "clicks".

#13 1 year ago

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-restoration?tu=skypilot

I documented one about 5 years ago. Might pick up a few tidbits. Good luck on your resto.

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from Skypilot:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-restoration?tu=skypilot
I documented one about 5 years ago. Might pick up a few tidbits. Good luck on your resto.

Yup, read that thread already! (I'm sure I will go back and re-read it a few times tho, hah)

#15 1 year ago
Quoted from lb1:

You can likely build one yourself for $100 or so in 1 hour. That does not include the trip to home depot and the paint drying time though.

I'd rather just buy yours, lol, see you tomorrow around 10:20am

Also just placed a comet order for a sampling of different LED's to try. Will post pics and vids once installed. After that will make a final LED order.

Tomorrow I am probably going to order all the rubber. Going to go with titans all around, probably white for the rings unless anyone can convince me otherwise.

#16 1 year ago

I went white rings on mine, too. Think about blue post sleeves & flippers, sure looks good.

#17 1 year ago
Quoted from HIPPY:

I went white rings on mine, too. Think about blue post sleeves & flippers, sure looks good.

Nice, I am leaning towards blue post sleeves as well. I tried color matching the current ones to where they were on the PF and it looks a little hodge podge. For the flippers, I already have red titans so I think I am going to stick with those for now.

#18 1 year ago

Productive day -

imagamejunky joined me and we picked up a homegrown (vid's style: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-quick-and-dirty-rotisserie-guide) rotisserie from lb1. (saved me an extra $50 in parts and 2 hours of my time, sweet) then headed over to pheonix games and then the flipper room to check out their line ups and get some games in.

It was actually a productive visit, got to chat with a few machine owners at pheonix and discussed insert lighting (where to color match, where to stick with white) that was very helpful.

Some things currently on my mind:

- If the existing side rails connected to the PF looks fine, I am assuming I can re-use them yes?

- The ramps themselves are in great shape (PO replaced them) but some of the flaps def need replacing. I am assuming pinbits flaps (the ones that have the rivet head on one side but some sort of collar on the other?) that don't need a rivet press will work? or am I headed in the wrong direction.

- The only plastics in poor shape (that I have noticed so far) are the ones on either side of Rudy's mouth. I'm not too keen to buy a whole repro set just yet, considering doing a little touch up (just a little paint scratched off)

- Rudy from the outside looks great, the one wear point would be his jaw where the ball makes contact, there is a bit of a scuff there. Match color and re-paint?

- Rudy's insides scare me, he currently works fine. I fear that if I go in for a rebuild I will break more than I fix, haha... Or should I really take advantage of the fact that I have him on the work bench off the game.. Will have to ponder this one for a bit, I have time at least.

Off to get a few games in.

#19 1 year ago

Buy new rails from taylorva. They’re not expensive and look amazing.

If you can afford new ramps, do it. If you need to re-use, I have a rivet press and will do it for you. But with a new PF, you’ll want the nice new ramps.

Get plastics and hold onto them. You never know when you won’t be able to buy them.

Usually folks who do a swap replace all of the top side. It’s up to you and budget, but it will look amazing with fresh everything.

#20 1 year ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Buy new rails from taylorva. They’re not expensive and look amazing.
If you can afford new ramps, do it. If you need to re-use, I have a rivet press and will do it for you. But with a new PF, you’ll want the nice new ramps.
Get plastics and hold onto them. You never know when you won’t be able to buy them.
Usually folks who do a swap replace all of the top side. It’s up to you and budget, but it will look amazing with fresh everything.

Thanks for the offer, may take you up on that. The ramps are in pristine condition. I believe they were previously replaced a few years back. It just feels like a waste replacing them. In fact, I'm not 100% sure the flaps need to be replaced, will post pics soon. (but the one after the shooter lane by the pops definitely needs it)

I will probably throw down for the repro plastics, just not sure if it's going to be now or a bit later, just trying to prioritize.

#21 1 year ago

Hit me up when you need. It’s a quick task and I’m happy to do it.

Good luck with the restore! You’ll cherish the game after you’re done with it.

#22 1 year ago

Thanks! much appreciated.

Some pics to show the ramps, flaps and condition of rudy.

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#23 1 year ago

In the above pic, on the left steps ramp flap, you can see the previous owner mylar'd it to the PF... I'm not quite sure why, it's as if they couldn't get the new ramp low enough on the PF? Maybe someone could take a pic of that spot on theirs so I can compare.

#24 1 year ago

Thanks to some pics from fellow pinsiders and some google-fu, I believe I see the problem. The right side of the ramp is resting on a nut from the plastic directly to the right.

Will need to address this during re-install on the new PF.

20180101_194625 (resized).jpg

#25 1 year ago

With the LED samples on the way, my buy list now is as follows:

Ramp flap kit 1 $19.00 $19.00 https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info
&cPath=13_3&products_id=525&zenid=9486284b8ac8f2b83fd3da0634252dce
Titan silicone rings 1 $49.00 $49.00 https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/702
Wire bending starter kit
(to make wire guides) 1 $14.95 $14.95 http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-WS-KIT
6-32 T-Nut 9 $0.29 $2.61 http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4406-01118-00
8-32 T-Nut 18 $0.25 $4.50 http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4408-01118-00
Trap door hinge 1 $19.95 $19.95 http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-14155
1 Blue rect stand up target 1 $7.95 $7.95 http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=463
3 Red rect stand up targets 3 $7.95 $23.85 http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1566
(note, the other stand up targets were recently replaced)

My assumption is that I can re-use all posts (I have a tumbler that I have never used, guess this will be the time) and other various parts that will be cleaned.

If I am missing obvious things I'd appreciate a sanity check. Happy new years!

#26 1 year ago

I hope the rotisserie is working out for you!

On the wood rails you could either paint the existing ones with something that sticks to plastic (like Rust Oleum 2X ultra cover), or better yet, get Taylor's oak rails. I think he does semi-gloss and I re-coated mine in gloss black for extra shine.

Also, on your last picture it looks like the ball comes in direct contact with the rail, which is a recipe for wear. Use a protector like https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2120 and your good to go. You can even polish it to a nice mirror-like shine. This is also a nice-to-have for the shooter lane.

Not a bad idea to get new plastic star posts. The hardware can go in the tumbler. The standard machine screws you can find new nickel plated that looks great at any hardware store.

I prefer flaps in stainless since I got rust on the blue steel.

#27 1 year ago

New plastic posts. They are cheap and really make the game pop.

#28 1 year ago
Quoted from lb1:

I hope the rotisserie is working out for you!
On the wood rails you could either paint the existing ones with something that sticks to plastic (like Rust Oleum 2X ultra cover), or better yet, get Taylor's oak rails. I think he does semi-gloss and I re-coated mine in gloss black for extra shine.
Also, on your last picture it looks like the ball comes in direct contact with the rail, which is a recipe for wear. Use a protector like https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2120 and your good to go. You can even polish it to a nice mirror-like shine. This is also a nice-to-have for the shooter lane.
Not a bad idea to get new plastic star posts. The hardware can go in the tumbler. The standard machine screws you can find new nickel plated that looks great at any hardware store.
I prefer flaps in stainless since I got rust on the blue steel.

Thanks, its still sitting on my jeep for now, haha, but I plan to take it out and set it up this week.

Rails, I thought they were already wood, will go take a look.

Regarding the "direct contact with the rail" comment, are you talking about the left side in front of the steps ramp entrance?

Good call on the star posts, will add those to the order list.

Appreciate your insight, thnx!

#29 1 year ago
Quoted from pintechev:

New plastic posts. They are cheap and really make the game pop.

Are you referring to the start posts? (or are there others?) good idea though, so I will do that.

#30 1 year ago

Yes, the plastic start posts. The metal ones you can tumble and shine up yourself.

#31 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Rails, I thought they were already wood, will go take a look.

I didn't realize they weren't wrapped with black vinyl, as seems to be the case in later years. In this case you probably have pine, which is a bit soft but will look fine with a couple coats of black. I like gloss myself (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-refresh/page/2#post-3302312) but it's really up to you.

Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Regarding the "direct contact with the rail" comment, are you talking about the left side in front of the steps ramp entrance?

Yes. For me in the LOTR it was the Shire and the right area in the shooter lane I needed to protect (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-refresh/page/2#post-3307847). Looks like maybe the Mylar over the left ramp was there to deal with a flap that was too high. The wood screws look too big and the wrong size. See if you can use something smaller on the new playfield.

If the pop bumpers skirts don't fully clean up you may need new ones.

This makes regraining ball guides a breeze - amazon.com link »

What guides are you planning on making?

#32 1 year ago

@Ib1 you use that on a drill and it will scuff up the metal guide enough to look like new?.

#33 1 year ago
Quoted from cavalier88z24:

@Ib1 you use that on a drill and it will scuff up the metal guide enough to look like new?.

Pretty much yes. Or a drill press. Gotta be careful about keeping it at 90 degrees but other than that it's great. It does not eliminate the deeper scratches that would require a rougher grit.

#34 1 year ago

You only want to do this once. Take your time. Don't cut corners. You're going to have to spend money to do it right. Do it right. Don't want to take something apart to clean it properly? You'll kick yourself later. Do it right.

Everyone's watching.

Don't fuck it up.

#35 1 year ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

You only want to do this once. Take your time. Don't cut corners. You're going to have to spend money to do it right. Do it right. Don't want to take something apart to clean it properly? You'll kick yourself later. Do it right.
Everyone's watching.
Don't fuck it up.

Yeah I hear ya (And nice to have a pro on this thread, I will have lots of questions! lol)

The main concerning points on the skill side is dealing with Rudy's insides, but I think I will just have to man up there.

On the $$ side, I think it was mainly springing for a new repro plastics set, which I think will just need to get done. Trying to think long term.

#36 1 year ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

You only want to do this once. Take your time. Don't cut corners. You're going to have to spend money to do it right. Do it right. Don't want to take something apart to clean it properly? You'll kick yourself later. Do it right.
Everyone's watching.
Don't fuck it up.

This man speaks the truth.

#37 1 year ago
Quoted from lb1:

What guides are you planning on making?

These wire ball guides, marco has a few of them but not all (at least that I saw under the funhouse listings). From what I have read I can pull the old ones out, but they might have barbs on the end? My thought process is that it would be easier to make new ones. Will need a sanity check on that.

wire_guides (resized).png

#38 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

These wire ball guides, marco has a few of them but not all (at least that I saw under the funhouse listings). From what I have read I can pull the old ones out, but they might have barbs on the end? My thought process is that it would be easier to make new ones. Will need a sanity check on that.

I've never NOT reused them. No reason not to. Save your money.

#39 1 year ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

I've never NOT reused them. No reason not to. Save your money.

Sweet, axing that item of the list!

#40 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

The main concerning points on the skill side is dealing with Rudy's insides, but I think I will just have to man up there.

It's a bit complicated but not that bad. Take lots of pics from different angles and different sides. Do this at different stages of disassembly. If you don't have a manual, get one or download one from IPDB.com. It shows Rudy's head, along with lots of other assemblies.

When you take apart the head, have no other parts, fasteners, etc. on your bench. Only be dealing with parts from the head. Don't get things mixed in from other assemblies.

Here are a couple examples of pics. I have many many more of just the head.

007 (resized).JPG

012 (resized).JPG

#41 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Sweet, axing that item of the list!

The trick in pulling them out is taking your time and having the right set up. Basically, put some cardboard underneath the side of the guide so it almost touches the guide. Then you can use a flat screwdriver and gently pry it up a tiny bit. Then you move to the other side and go back and forth until it's out.

Or see Chris' setup - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-restores-an-original-mm-the-original-way/page/3#post-3720200

Since you have a new playfield, if you are worried about chipping the holes when you put the wires back, you can always grind the barbs.

#42 1 year ago
Quoted from lb1:

The trick in pulling them out is taking your time and having the right set up. Basically, put some cardboard underneath the side of the guide so it almost touches the guide. Then you can use a flat screwdriver and gently pry it up a tiny bit. Then you move to the other side and go back and forth until it's out.
Or see Chris' setup - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-restores-an-original-mm-the-original-way/page/3#post-3720200
Since you have a new playfield, if you are worried about chipping the holes when you put the wires back, you can always grind the barbs.

Yeah that's what I was worried about, the barbs gouging something on the way in on the new PF. My assumption was, without the barbs, that you just drop a smidge of wood glue down there with a tooth pick or something.

#43 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Yeah that's what I was worried about, the barbs gouging something on the way in on the new PF. My assumption was, without the barbs, that you just drop a smidge of wood glue down there with a tooth pick or something.

Wood glue won't do you any good when dealing with metal. If they have barbs, just pound them in and don't worry about it. You're over thinking things.

#44 1 year ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Wood glue won't do you any good when dealing with metal. If they have barbs, just pound them in and don't worry about it. You're over thinking things.

Check! (glad I started this thread)

#45 1 year ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

It's a bit complicated but not that bad. Take lots of pics from different angles and different sides. Do this at different stages of disassembly. If you don't have a manual, get one or download one from IPDB.com. It shows Rudy's head, along with lots of other assemblies.
When you take apart the head, have no other parts, fasteners, etc. on your bench. Only be dealing with parts from the head. Don't get things mixed in from other assemblies.
Here are a couple examples of pics. I have many many more of just the head.

Question: Should I plan ahead to replace anything? (coils, sleeves, stops, springs, etc) or best to just open rudy up and see what the condition is first? Just seeing if there is anything else I need to add to my initial marco shopping list.

#46 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Question: Should I plan ahead to replace anything? (coils, sleeves, stops, springs, etc) or best to just open rudy up and see what the condition is first? Just seeing if there is anything else I need to add to my initial marco shopping list.

This assembly don't see a lot of action the way flippers, pop bumpers and slingshots do. If it's working now and the solder connections are solid, chances are you're good with a good cleanup.

#47 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Question: Should I plan ahead to replace anything? (coils, sleeves, stops, springs, etc) or best to just open rudy up and see what the condition is first? Just seeing if there is anything else I need to add to my initial marco shopping list.

Everything inside Rudy's head should be fine but you may want to wait until you have it open. When doing a playfield swap, I never place my orders until the playfield is fully stripped. Only then do I know what I need.

#48 1 year ago

Coils are not something you replace unless they don’t work at all. You can replace the paper wrappers for a cleaner look, but other than cleaning them, they are not consumables unless shorted or melted.

New sleeves on every coil is a minimum when you’re doing a swap. As Bryan has said many times, you’re never going to do this again, and the time you have it on the rotisserie is the best and easiest time to reach things for cleaning and refurbishment. Once it’s back in the game it’s much harder.

#49 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

These wire ball guides, marco has a few of them but not all (at least that I saw under the funhouse listings). From what I have read I can pull the old ones out, but they might have barbs on the end? My thought process is that it would be easier to make new ones. Will need a sanity check on that.

I pulled mine out with pliers. No barbs. They were pressure fit. I used a rubber mallet to put them in the new pf.

#50 1 year ago

As long as you pre-drill the wire guides, they tap right in. I freaked out about these on my first two swaps, and they weren’t a big deal. Remember that the original guides were tapped in by hammers quickly at a factory. I don’t think anyone at Williams thought that was a delicate part of assembling the game

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