(Topic ID: 224146)

Funhouse melted leds and blown solenoid fuses


By Its_me_aj

7 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 41 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 months ago by CaptainNeo
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 7 months ago

I have something really strange going on with may funhouse. when I got it it was trashed, replaced the mph and driver board with rottendogs and it cleared up all the issues it had and has played flawlessly up until the other day. I have the game out on location and go to check on it and all the feature lights are out and all the solenoid fuses are blown. I looked at everything that I could and nothing felt hot or burnt. I replaced the fuses and everything played ok. So I took the game home and started checking stuff out and found that every single controlled light was melted or started to melt and 2 of the white flashers basically blew up. Also rudy jaw isn't working any more and the Rudy optos and the staircase optos isn't working either. I took the boards out and looked to see if there are any burns or melted areas on it and everything looks fine. I have no clue where to start on this. Im not sure why there was such a huge voltage spike. The other games had no issues.

When I replace the lights everything works fine. My understanding is that the fuse should have popped before it let the lights melt or is that the downfall to leds? I've literally never had a bulb melt before. Im wondering if something happened in Rudy to make this happen, or the opto board went bad or something. any advice would be greatly appreciated.

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#2 7 months ago

your problem are the rottendog crap boards

#3 7 months ago

Maybe an LED shorted against the solenoid voltage and the solenoid voltage melted the LEDs? Don't rely on fuses to save components, they're more there to save the board and power supply. Especially if there was a short between voltage levels, the LEDs might melt below the amperage necessary for the solenoid fuse to blow. Plus LEDs require less amperage than incandescents so even the regular controlled lamp fuses are probably overfused now

Optos and mouth I'd assume you've lost 12V somewhere, have you checked those fuses too?

#4 7 months ago

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#5 7 months ago

your rotten dog boards have locked on with full power to the leds and flashers

#6 7 months ago

Ok so is there a way to fix that? Or prevent that? I get rottendog are not the best out there but it’s what was available. I have the original board that was repaired but it still had issues that needs fixed

#7 7 months ago
Quoted from Ballypinball:

your rotten dog boards have locked on with full power to the leds and flashers

Do you have some problem with rottendog or something? You seem to be blaming the boards with little evidence. OP says the lamps work fine after they were replaced so they're clearly not locked on.

-2
#8 7 months ago

every game I have used the boards in have failed, poorly designed, the board will lock on again

#9 7 months ago
Quoted from Ballypinball:

every game I have used the boards in have failed, poorly designed, the board will lock on again

Whether the boards are bad or not, I don't think it's a very helpful avenue of troubleshooting for this topic

#11 7 months ago

Could something with the high voltge board at the bottom side of the pf be part of the problem with the optos and the leds?

#12 7 months ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

Could something with the high voltge board at the bottom side of the pf be part of the problem with the optos and the leds?

Possibly, if there was a short. Do you have 12V regulated and unregulated at the test points on the driver board?

#13 7 months ago

I checked all the test points and everything was good. That’s what I don’t get. Some lights are melted more than others but if you replace them they work fine.

I thought about something with the surge protector but if that was the issue wouldn’t the other games on that line have issues as well? It’s like there was a massive power surge but not big enough to do major damage.

#14 7 months ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

I necked all the test points and everything was good. That’s what I don’t get. Some lights are melted more than others but if you replace them they work fine.
I thought about something with the surge protector but if that was the issue wouldn’t the other games on that line have issues as well? It’s like there was a massive power surge but not big enough to do major damage.

Put the game on a variac set to
117v, run it 24/7 for a week or run it on burn in for 24 hours.

Any problems you have will show up.

If it's good put it back on location and assume wall power overvoltage.

Add whatever voltage protections you can get into the cabinet.

#15 7 months ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

When I replace the lights everything works fine.

Have you checked the voltages in the game? Could the transformer be set to high tap?

#16 7 months ago

Could lightning do that?

#17 7 months ago

Voltages all test good.

#18 7 months ago

I think my newest concern is the optos are throwing error codes and not working. The game still credits up and starts a game and plays just fine, besides the lights which are fixable, the optos, and the Rudy jaw not opening

#19 7 months ago

Do you have an led display and not removed the high voltage fuses?

#20 7 months ago

actually that could be a possibility

#21 7 months ago

we had the voltage jump across the board due to no load, sound board started smoking and burnt out all sorts of things

just a thought

#22 7 months ago

Just double checked funhouse and bride of pinbot and with the replacement led displays you remove the displays driver board which has the high voltage fuse. Correct? So that would eliminate the high voltage area to my understanding

#23 7 months ago

All lights are fixed. Now to address the Rudy jaw and optos issues. Neither optos work and Rudy’s jaw only closes

#24 7 months ago

The Rudy jaw only closes. The motor just clicks when it tries to open. With the spike in power could the high current driver board cause any of this? I’m pretty sure the optos are blown as well, so I will replace those. My main question at this point would be if replacing the high current board would fix anything

-3
#25 7 months ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Whether the boards are bad or not, I don't think it's a very helpful avenue of troubleshooting for this topic

if the boards are bad its very relevant to troubleshooting the issue.

#26 7 months ago
Quoted from Marvin:

if the boards are bad its very relevant to troubleshooting the issue.

The solution to troubleshooting an issue is not 'your board manufacturer is bad, replace all your boards'

#27 7 months ago

The boards may be bad, but what caused them to be bad? I just want my game playing

#28 7 months ago

Don't forget there is a motor control board for the jaw, it may have something blown on it.

#29 7 months ago

That’s what I’m thinking. I need to get a 9v battery and test the motor tonight

#30 7 months ago

Tested the jaw motor with a 9v battery. Tests fine. No troubles.

I need to find the values of the high current
Driver board. I’m thinking something happened with that

#31 7 months ago

Also Q30 will not let the mouth move up and down

#32 7 months ago

TP 1 is read 13.3v

TP6 is ready 74v

So something is up with the 50v circuit

#33 7 months ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

TP6 is ready 74v

So something is up with the 50v circuit

74 volts DC is a normal reading for the 50 volt circuit.

#34 7 months ago

Well crap.

#35 7 months ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

Also Q30 will not let the mouth move up and down

Q30 (sol#22) works together with sol#21.
Sol#21 enables the mouth in one direction. Sol#21 + #22 reverses the direction.

#36 7 months ago

I ordered a new high current board and opto sets. Hopefully that fixes something

#37 7 months ago

I would replace ribbons as well. Ive seen faulty ribbons cause issues similar to this. They are almost 30 years old and should be replaced.

#38 7 months ago

Ribbons are all new

#39 7 months ago

Small update. If I jump the Moro while the game is on it will work fine for about 3 times that Rudy talks. Then It stops working again.

#40 7 months ago

Well after replacing the optos and the high current driver board, there was no change in anything. Started looking into a lot of different things, basically anything I could that was related to the jaw and the optos.

I found that the connectors on j116 and j117 were we’re folded over so there was not connection with the wire but it was holding the wire in. Everything is playing fine now just like it was. Still don’t know why lights melted and fuses blew though.

#41 7 months ago

you sure the lights are working normal. They don't seem overly bright by chance? what happens if you put original bulb in the socket. That would tell you more if the lights are not pulsing faster than a LED would. If they are indeed locked on, it's going to blow them all out.

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