(Topic ID: 320205)

Funhouse: Fuse keeps blowing on display board

By HappyHarold

1 year ago



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#1 1 year ago

Hi Everyone: I am new to pinball repair and am trying to restore my old Williams Funhouse machine. While working on the switches, my metal flashlight slid down and touched somewhere between the brass speaker with its two black cylinders (labelled 100v) and the display board (see accompanying photo). This instantly produced a small pop, a small puff of smoke, and the display went completely dead. The fuse had blown. I replaced the fuse and it blew instantly again. I presume this means too much current is flowing into the display board, but I don't know how to go about finding the cause and then how to fix it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I have a multimeter if that helps.

My thanks, Harold

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#2 1 year ago

I would check the 2 blue capacitors on the display board first. Looks like they have some smoke damage on them.

#3 1 year ago

The speaker frame is grounded (see green wire in the upper right side of your picture). A metal flashlight body seems most likely to short between the frame of that speaker and the exposed leads on C1 or C2 on that board.

Touching the lead on C2 near the fuse holder would have caused a large amount of current to flow through D4, almost certainly damaging it. The same is true with the lead on C1 damaging D3. I would start with checking those two diodes. Your meter should allow you to test them easily in diode mode. They should measure somewhere around 0.7V forward voltage in one direction, and "open" in the opposite direction. They are also cheap to replace (1N4004 through 1N4007 will work fine).

The troubling thing about high voltage circuits is that once one thing goes bad, it can take out other components. If you find a bad component, either look downstream of that and continue testing, or ask for further guidance. There really aren't many components in the regulated section for the high voltage, so you can probably quickly test everything, or just shotgun components if necessary.

Finally, if you add you location, somebody local might be able to assist. If you are in the bay area of California, I can give you a hand.

#4 1 year ago

Thanks so much to Shogun00 and Pwedge. I will start checking these elements later today and will report back to you. I am located in Central New Jersey.

#5 1 year ago

Ok, I pulled both capacitors (C1 and C2) and both diodes (D3 and D4). I tested the diodes on the diode setting on my multimeter. D3 read 6.4 in the forward direction and 1 in the reverse (which seems to be default on my meter for this test?). D4, which had partially crumbled, read 644 in the forward direction (yes, 644 and not 6.4) and 1 in the reverse. I presume this means that D4 is bad?

I was not sure how to test the capacitors although I watched a series of youtube videos. Using the 200 M Ohm setting on my multimeter, C1 read a stable 1.1 and C2 was similar at 0.9. I am not sure what this means, but both showed staining perhaps from heat or smoke (as Shogun00 suggested).

Which of these pieces should I replace, and what downstream items would you recommend I test?

Thanks in advance to everyone for your assistance. Happy Harold

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from HappyHarold:

I tested the diodes on the diode setting on my multimeter. D3 read 6.4 in the forward direction and 1 in the reverse (which seems to be default on my meter for this test?). D4, which had partially crumbled, read 644 in the forward direction (yes, 644 and not 6.4) and 1 in the reverse. I presume this means that D4 is bad?

Hmm. Some of this sounds suspicious. A reading of "1" might be fine, since some meters use that to indicate an open circuit. This would be the case when testing a reverse biased diode. The forward bias voltages seem wrong, though. A 1N4004 diode should likely have a forward voltage of somewhere between 0.6V and 0.7V. Your "6.4" reading just seems really wrong. The "644" reading may make sense if you didn't notice a "." before the number (so 0.644), or if your meter is showing the voltage in units of millivolts (mV).

The diodes are *really* cheap parts. I would just replace both of them with 1N4007 diodes and see where that gets you. This type of diode is used all over the machine, including on all of the lights and switches in the matrix, so you might as well grab a small pack of them to have on hand.

#7 1 year ago

Thanks Pwedge. I rechecked the diodes. Both read about 640 forward and 1 reverse. I must have mismeasured one of them earlier. As you suspected, when I checked the DMM manual it stated that forward voltage is measured in mV and "in reverse a 1 will be displayed on the LCD screen." So I will replace the two diodes anyway, as you suggested since they are so inexpensive. I will also replace the capacitors (C1 and C2) which I could not test on my multimeter. Anything else at this time that I should replace?

#8 1 year ago

Ok. Those diode measurements seem reasonable. As I mentioned before, though, "The troubling thing about high voltage circuits is that once one thing goes bad, it can take out other components".

By any chance, can you point out where you believe the flashlight may have touched? Or any better idea of where the smoke came from?

Can you measure the resistance across R52 and R53? Similarly, measure resistance across C1 and C2. That will hopefully narrow down if the issue is on the +100V or -100V side.

There really aren't many components in the high voltage circuit. You should be able to quickly measure most of them in circuit and see if there is anything strange (either open or shorted). I doubt that you meter will be able to correctly measure the zener voltage on D5 and D6, but if either one measures as a dead short, you know that it is bad.
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Hopefully you didn't kill the UDN6118 or UDN7180. The UDN6118 is still obtainable at a fairly reasonable price, but the UDN7180 is not.

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from Pwedge:

Ok. Those diode measurements seem reasonable. As I mentioned before, though, "The troubling thing about high voltage circuits is that once one thing goes bad, it can take out other components".
By any chance, can you point out where you believe the flashlight may have touched? Or any better idea of where the smoke came from?
Can you measure the resistance across R52 and R53? Similarly, measure resistance across C1 and C2. That will hopefully narrow down if the issue is on the +100V or -100V side.
There really aren't many components in the high voltage circuit. You should be able to quickly measure most of them in circuit and see if there is anything strange (either open or shorted). I doubt that you meter will be able to correctly measure the zener voltage on D5 and D6, but if either one measures as a dead short, you know that it is bad.
[quoted image]
Hopefully you didn't kill the UDN6118 or UDN7180. The UDN6118 is still obtainable at a fairly reasonable price, but the UDN7180 is not.

Hi Pwedge. I believe the flashlight touched the speaker, in the area of the two black capacitors, and then somewhere near the fuse holder and J307, but this is just a guess. The puff of smoke seemed to come from that corner of the driver board but I'm not sure. I've attached photos of this area, and the flashlight, for what it may be worth.

I measured the resistance across both R52 and R53 as about 330,000 ohms. I measured resistance of C1 and C2 at the 200M setting and got 1.1 or 1.0 in one direction and 0.8 in the other, on both capacitors. I'm not sure if this is normal.

You suggest that I measure in circuit the components in the high voltage circuit. I know which components you have in mind from the schematic, but I am not sure how to measure them? Can you tell me what settings to use on my meter and what results to expect if something is bad?

Thanks again for your generous help. Harold

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