(Topic ID: 152972)

Funhouse Display - Your Thoughts

By Don_C

8 years ago


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#1 8 years ago

I'd like to tap into the Pinside hive mind.

My Funhouse top display tube is not completely lighting all the segments in the letters/numbers. Mostly near the ends. A bit flickery. This has been slowly getting worse over the 7-8 years I have had it. Voltages and the lower tube are good.

Does this sound like a dying (outgassing?) tube?

New tube: about $160. (I can easily handle the replacing, done it before)
New LED replacement complete display: about $200.

What would you do:

If I go LED, whose product is best for Funhouse? (Assuming there is more than one offering)
Keep the old parts or sell them off? (Could scavenge good tube for Simpsons DE, if ever needed)

Please discuss.

Thanks,

Don C.

#2 8 years ago

It is outgassing. Go LED and dump your HV section all-together, one less thing to worry about fixing in the future. X-Pin makes nice displays. I've bought several over the years.

#3 8 years ago
Quoted from thedefog:

It is outgassing. Go LED and dump your HV section all-together, one less thing to worry about fixing in the future. X-Pin makes nice displays. I've bought several over the years.

Agree - best bet if it is for the long run

#4 8 years ago

http://xpinpinball.com/product/xp-wms12739/
$200
You'll be very happy and glad you did this instead of plasma.

#5 8 years ago

XPin looks the best in my opinion. The tinted vinyl overlay they include hides the unlit LED segments and makes it look like a gas display. They also have excellent after-purchase support.

#6 8 years ago

i replaced my bop with the xpin and it is great, highly recommended. im pretty sure bop and funhouse used the same display

#7 8 years ago
Quoted from kyle5574:

The tinted vinyl overlay they include hides the unlit LED segments and makes it look like a gas display.

This has always been my biggest gripe with LED displays--the unlit displays always stood out and looked horrible. I'm really glad this is an option. Might have to update my aging displays now.

#8 8 years ago

Actually, a question I'd like to add to the OP's discussion, how much of a strain do these replacement LED units place on the WPC and System 11 power supplies? I only ask, because I know that the Bally units for their -17/-35 boards can add up to an extra amp of current, nearly maxing out the poor 5 volt regulator.

#9 8 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

This has always been my biggest gripe with LED displays--the unlit displays always stood out and looked horrible. I'm really glad this is an option. Might have to update my aging displays now.

The xpin stuff looks sharp, is well designed, and is a cinch to install. They're great. I swear I don't work for them.

#10 8 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Actually, a question I'd like to add to the OP's discussion, how much of a strain do these replacement LED units place on the WPC and System 11 power supplies? I only ask, because I know that the Bally units for their -18/-35 boards can add up to an extra amp of current, nearly maxing out the poor 5 volt regulator.

I believe the bally displays run off the original HV power. I may be wrong there, but it looks like they are pin for pin compatible, so plug and play. Maybe they step down the HV to whatever they need to run. Or maybe they just don't use the HV pins on the edge connectors and are powered by the same logic power rail. Either way, I doubt the draw is significant or they wouldn't be selling them.

#11 8 years ago

Just read some info. Looks like they do draw from the +5v, but have very low power consumption. 8 segments per display block, 6 or 7 blocks. With all turned on per a display, if they're drawing about 15mA per segment (which is a pretty liberal estimate probably), that's 120mA per fully lit block, or 840 for the entire display. But remember these displays are strobed, so the maximum draw it would ever have with the decoder ICs can't be more than an amp at any given moment, and that is with all display segments on at once. The strobing effect itself also uses less power, much like PWM, so it is off more than it is on. I dunno what the refresh cycle is on the bally games, but I wouldn't be surprised if it uses 1/2 of what I estimated the max to be simply due to the design.

#12 8 years ago
Quoted from thedefog:

Just read some info.

Awesome. Thanks for your information!

#13 8 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Awesome. Thanks for your information!

NP. What game were you gonna drop these into?

#14 8 years ago
Quoted from thedefog:

What game were you gonna drop these into?

I'm planning on a medium-high end restoration of my Whirlwind when I get my playfield back from Neo. The current displays aren't bad, but you can see burn in and weak comma segments starting to appear. Figured I'd drop in a new set of displays while I've got the thing in pieces.

#15 8 years ago

Go LED. I do it to all my games I can. I like being able to cut off the high voltage of the boards. Saves a bunch of power and the displays practically last forever.

#16 8 years ago

Thanks everyone- XPin purchased.

Don C.

#17 8 years ago

XPin installed, very satisfied, looks fine whether on or off. Instuctions could be a bit better (sketch or photo?), but I went slow and had no problems. Made my own spacers, grubbed up some screws and got it in; didn't know about mounting kits until I saw that in the instructions, so maybe I missed it on the website. The gray film works very well.

Don C.

#18 8 years ago

yea, i just placed a big order with Xpin as well again.

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