Depending on your soldering skills plus amount of damage, replacement may be the way to go...pics would help.

Pix please.

That will be a sizable project and require good soldering skills since alkaline damaged traces and pads lift very easily. It's definitely not a help a friend type of project.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-guide-to-repairing-alkaline-battery-damage

Mine was about that bad and was deemed un-repairable by a professional.

Rottondog has new replacement boards (MPU089) around 175.

http://rottendog.us/MPU089.html

I see Curly @ little shop of games has some in stock. He is a good guy to work with. Might also try ebay.

http://littleshopofgames.com/product/williams-wpc89-mpu-board-mpu089/

Before you do anything get Duracell to pay for it. Mine was just as bad and Rob fixed it good as new.

Gere is a proof of Duracell quality. It is not 2017 yet ...

Duracell_(resized).jpg

None.

anyPin NVRAM Battery Eliminator
www.LockWhenLit.com/anyPin.htm

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

batteries_(resized).jpg

Really not worth the time in repairing. Acid never stops. A new replacement is not that expensive. Just tell Ken not to cheap out and fix it right.

You will want to pick up an PLCC extraction tool.

https://ksarcade.net/plcc-extractor-tool-asic.html

I'd try repairing it first... If that doesnt work out, you can always replace it

Say what???? Is that how you see the hobby? You must nutralize the acid (technically it's a base, not an acid) with vinegar and give it a good scrub. I usually let it stay for an hour or so and wash it of with some alcohol.

Then all the affected parts will be desoldered and thrown away. After that the board will be sanded down and the parts can be replaced after a first optical check. Then comes the moment of thruth, the test. Wirebridges will be added and as last a silicium battery.

Check: http://www.flippergast.nl/?p=175

You left out one important step - sealing the board once the repair is done. That will greatly increase the odds of the alkaline damage not returning.

But still, not all are repairable. If you're a hobbyist and your time costs you nothing, the parts for the repair are certainly not expensive. But, if you're doing rework for hire, the amount of time one of these repairs take is the limiting factor.

It's usually worse than the pics make it out to be, and that one looks kinda iffy already.

I wouldn't throw the old board away - someone on eBay will buy it and have a good time fixing it - but I don't think it's gonna be cost effective to repair professionally.

Vote for new board here, but keep the old one.

If you can get it working eventually, you could sell it to recoup some of the cost. But in my experience, when you see that much green on the component leads, it isn't worth the effort. It might work for a year, then crap out on you again. Alkaline damaged boards are boomerangs.