I still just cant find a way to accept this nonsense... A NIB Funhouse cost $2800 in 1990. And while I've heard all the "justification theories" and comparisons to classic cars, yadda yadda. This is one of the most NON rare games Williams ever built!! There are shit-tons of them out there, a thrashed POS will never be worth more than this game cost as NIB!!
I will never own one at these stupid prices, so I guess it'll be my Eleanor until the next recession, when all these chumps will be forced to sell at 1/3 of what they paid... in other words, what they're actually worth!

As expected, most of you missed my point... This market has moved to what I sometimes call "title value", which means that everyone thinks that because the game says Funhouse on the backglass, its worth a fortune! so it really doesn't matter if your game is well maintained and in a condition average for its age, or a heap of shit with more wood than graphics showing on the pf and a warped, planked cabinet that looks like it fell off a truck on its way to the landfill... It's still worth SIX GRAND!!??? Bullshit!
@ pinballinreno, your game is worth $6K all day long (altho i'm sure you think its worth $12K)... The 2 in the market right now, not even close!!

So in the end, a wave of locked-down idiots with more dollars than sense, who dont know dick about pinball are getting chumped into paying outrageous money for shit-box games and destroying this hobby for people like me who've been in it for 35 years, and many of you too!!
I intend to remain part of the solution and not part of the problem, by NOT buying overpriced games, period! As far as selling, my collection is permanent, I dont sell or flip games, I have picked up a couple games in my day that were good deal, that I traded for games on my wishlist, but that's it.

So, this is a $3500 Funhouse now?!!?!?!!?

I'm SO done with this hobby....

eacb0e253d1aa8e5737371c2466877f3f900e956 (resized).jpg

a04c86aa84f821203379f07797c183603bb798fc (resized).jpg

The whole thing is junk, there may be a half dozen PF parts that could even be reused. The entire cabinet and everything electronic, including all the boards are water destroyed, the MPU isnt even there. I might haul it away to the dump if he paid ME! That guy is insane, and i'm fed up with asshats like him (and the idiots who are paying these STOOPID prices) destroying the hobby that ive been able to comfortably afford for over 30 years.
Ive been in the hunt for a decent Funhouse, at a fair price, for over a decade, and guys like that infuriate me!! I give up...

Use black or colored heat shrink, works perfectly, looks pro, doesn't get gooey from heat, and wont come off unless you cut it off with a knife.

That would be the back of Ted's head for a Roadshow.

My bad, I cant see that comment and I was at work when I wrote that, had to go from memory...

post a pic of your lockbar, it looks like you may be using a system 11 bar. If I had a dime for every Funhouse ive seen with a system 11 bar on it, I could afford one!!

Back in 1990, Funhouse (and BoP) came with the new WPC receiver and lockbar, but the first bars had poor glue used to bond the latch piece to the top piece and they were breaking apart. At the time, operators only had system 11 bars laying around for quick replacement, and they are spot-welded together, hence...

FYI, even though visually the system 11 & WPC receivers LOOK the same, they are most definitely NOT the same!

You can bend the outer edge of the system 11 bar more straight with a vice, which will stop the cab gouging, but it will change the spacing between the latches and the outer edge of the cab, so it will be wonky and able to shift around when in place... So only straighten it a tad at a time and test-fit so you can split the difference.

The proper solution is either to get yourself a proper WPC lock bar, OR replace your WPC receiver with a system 11 receiver.
pic of proper lockbar borrowed from the marketplace
pic of proper lockbar borrowed from the marketplace

Yes, they are voltage supply and return for the GI circuits, and interchangeable. I cant help as much as i'd like too atm, but do some simple searching for "GI circuit header repair" and you'll find TONS!! Your issue occurs in 9 out of 10 WPC games, its been covered a trillion times here and all over the net. Even easier, look at your other Williams WPC/89 pins, the wiring on that connector is identical with all of them, WH20 for example.

Smart!

Wow, so these days, people will pay $13K for a Funhouse that's actually worth about $5k, or $20K for an IJ that's actually worth maybe $6K, but piss and moan about $5 for a decal... This hobby has SO turned to shit.

Quite often in assemblies like this, the nyliner bearing is wasted, gone, or popped out of its hole.

According to the photo, the plastic set that Marco sells, comes with both...
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1-50003
large (resized).jpg

Is there such thing as a ROM version that includes an LED ghosting patch?

Thanks guys, sounds like this'll be just another PITA for no reason... I dont have GI flickering, just random controlled lights, would rather not pay a premium for non-ghosting LED's if I can help it... And i'm on L-4, so I need a ROM upgrade anyway.

Piece a cake! I'm already aware of those steps being necessary, and i'll also swap in a RAMTRON while i'm at it! I'm quite the board tech.
FTR, it has all the original, serial numbers matching boards.

I just bought this recently, it took !%#&@! Beltmann a month to get it here, and ive had it almost a week. its in WELL above average condition for whats out there, and aside from every serial'd part matching, it has 100% original artwork with absolutely zero fade! There's no PF wear, but it has a mylar with some pretty serious insert bubbles that actually affect the ball travel quite noticeably... I havn't yet decided on how I'm going to address that...
I had to replace 2 TIP102's and a 107, and one fuse when it got here, but its working 100% now. I'm now getting my ducks in a row, preparing for a full teardown and comprehensive shopout.

I was not aware of that particular detail! thanks for mentioning it. But I do have a WPC sound board.

The inserts are all level, but I wont play this game with a bare playfield, so i'll probably just replace the mylar. The real trick is getting the new mylar in the EXACT same spot, or find a way to get the exposed blue (by the return lanes) back to the pretty blue under the mylar... The exposed is just a tad darker, but not nearly as bad as you typically see.

Nice! I usually make those myself, but that looks easier! Thanks for the tip!

Some side notes... Wedge flashers often rely on polarity, so if you're sure they are making good contact, and they still don't work, flip them 180 degrees.
The flashers you're using are directional, and not a good choice for the superdog. Get yourself some flex flashers that can point upward toward the insert.

Router. No, not the wifi thing.

F'n ridiculous. a 32 year old pinball machine that cost $2800 new, or a helluva nice late model used car with infinitely more practical use, AND a bona-fide asset!!
I'm still embarrassed to admit that I paid $6500 for mine (plus nearly $600 to ship it), in WAY above average original condition. $2300 MORE than the most I ever paid for any of my 11 other pins. Even if I had $14B to spend, I would never pay $14k for ANY pinball machine!! Flame on....

Hey gang, does anyone have extras of these 2 clears (new) that they would sell me? I sure dont want to buy an entire plastics set to get them!

plas2 (resized).jpg

I do have the originals, and I have PETG and tools to replicate them... I'm being anal about my restore to be 100% complete and have the proper parts with the part numbers printed on them. I was able to source the couple of plastics I needed that weren't still perfect in my game (most yellowing), but nobody has the piece over the wireforms, the ramp cover is available from PPS, but between sales tax and shipping, its $25 for it, which is just stupid.

Well, I got a nice surprise today... My new main ramp showed up from SF, and I knew it came with the long ramp cover, but it also came with the piece that goes over the wireforms! So now I don't need that right away. i'll use it until I find a proper NOS or repro. I suppose now i'll just eventually order the small steps ramp cover from PPS, and suck it up...
Unless of course someone chimes in with some spares to sell me!

Mr. "FOSSMIN" to the rescue! He has both of the plastics for me, thanks for the feedback guys.

I'm not really into toppers for games that didn't come with one from the factory... But I think I really want that animated marquee mod, but apparently I missed the boat on that.

Cheaper from the source...
https://starship-fantasy.com/ramps/Funhouse-Main-Ramp

Preparing for a PF swap myself... I built my own custom rotisserie, its rock solid, very adjustable and sturdy AF. It cost me about the same to build as PinDoc's Pro model.
The clamps are integrated into the angle iron supports, and its designed to have the front PF hangers bolted to it. Which is why the front support only has 2 clamps, neither of which are even necessary when the hangers are bolted in. Anyone care to guess where I got the idea for the rest of the structure?

Image1.jpg

Thanks for the advice! I've done some of the preliminaries to the new PF, I put in all the t-nuts so I can install the side rails first, to avoid any sagging or twisting issues. I had to over-drill 2 of the 6/32 t-nut holes so far, but I only drilled like 2/3 through from the bottom. I also added the pop bumper, scoop and ball-drop mylar bits.

NAILED IT!! I knew there had to be some other drummers around here!
So when i'm done with this project, I have some spare parts that I can repurpose!

IMG_7527.JPG

IMG_7529 (resized).JPG

IMG_7528 (resized).JPG

The green wire is correct, the white wire is on the wrong lug, and the diode is backward. The switch is basically wired as always closed instead of always open, but will still send a semi-correct signal to the CPU for a split second when its hit. I highly doubt that it was wired that way from the factory.

So I wrapped up my PF swap today, and I have to say... I saw a lot of mixed opinions around here on the Mirco PF, and here is my stat summary...
-5 dimples on the bottom not exactly where they should have been.
-1 dimple didn't exist.
-Had to slightly over-drill all 8-32 sleeve post holes.
Other than those, everything else was right-on! Everything ended up where it was supposed to be, everything fit and lined up with everything else.
A few tweaks here and there, and it plays like a brand new game! I put about 20 hours into the swap, the PF is gorgeous and I am VERY happy with it!

There is only one issue that i'm brainstorming a better solution on...
In the left (steps ramp) shooter lane, the "V" groove is clearly not straight. I cant tell if its the groove itself, or the clearcoat. When you shoot the ball, its directed into the left metal return lane guide, which causes the ball to rattle back and forth against that and the side rail and drops back to the plunger.
For the time being, I put a strip of mylar on the right side of the "V" at a different angle to help redirect the ball straighter, and its about 70% effective.
Yes, I spent hours adjusting the shooter all over the place to compensate, nothing made a bit of difference...

Yes, that is an issue that I also noticed, however I am unable to just shift it more to the right and have it stay. I will push a wedge in there until its evenly spaced and see what happens. Perhaps i'll also try adjusting the front hangers and/or the lockbar receiver, as it's only a few millimeters shifted, but that can make a huge difference in the trajectory! Thanks for the inspiration!!

A definite option, any photos of them installed?

Awesome! Thanks for taking the time to post those pics for me! I'll go ahead and order a set, certainly couldn't hurt!

ummm... {speechless}

Indeed, I just finished a PF swap, the recesses on the Mirco PF are not as deep as the OEM. My main ramp is new, I did not use any tape, and I even had to grind some of the PETG down from the leading edge under the flap to make it sit right. My steps ramp is minty original, so you can get away without using the tape, but the ramp flap angle is too extreme, a full plunge will launch the ball up into the glass.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-7354-01
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-7354-00

What's your issue with the Mirco Funhouse PF? I swapped one recently, it is gorgeous, flawless and the swap was as simple as it could be!
98% of the dimples were in the right place and I couldn't be happier! I have seen most of the complaints over the years, and I suspect that nearly all of them are from people who didn't know what they were doing... Not enough cure time, over tightening star posts, not using proper washers etc.