(Topic ID: 64458)

Funhouse!? Club... (Fans welcome)

By mof

10 years ago


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  • 5,095 posts
  • 464 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by Lodi
  • Topic is favorited by 210 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider sciddleybop1980.
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#241 8 years ago

Love this game. The quest to keep that multiball going just draws me back time and time again. Bloody tricky shot that trapdoor. Well it is when you need it!!

3 months later
#314 8 years ago

The ball doesn't have to physically hit rudy, only break the opto beam in front of his jaw. So if the ball crawled up towards him it may have just about broken the beam.

Failing that if you're 100% positive you went know where near him during the game it could be a flakey opto

2 months later
#351 7 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

It will light one of the Step awards at a time. I can't recall the order, but I think it goes 500,000, then frenzy, then the extra ball. The associated light on the ramp should then flash.

Ahhhhhhhh I see. I've owned 2 Funhouses and I never knew that but often wondered. Thanks

#369 7 years ago

I prefer this one. Looks awesome.

5 months later
#432 7 years ago

Love this poster

2 months later
#500 7 years ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

I am trying to reduce the volume on my FH. I go into the menus to Adjustment #28 and say YES to Minimum Volume Control. Then it allows me to adjust the volume to "0" on the display but the volume does not change. Any suggestion please?
Thanks

I'm having volume dramas on my fh too. Similar to your trouble. No matter what it say on the volume display, it fluctuates in volume of its own accord. It will go really quite then really loud.
I've reseated everything on the sound board, even the chips but it still does it.
Could it be some caps or resistors need changing?

1 month later
#540 7 years ago
Quoted from provato:

Question about the rubber grommet that holds the glass, down on the apron
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/23-6313-1
Which side goes up & which side goes down? I see photos all over the internet - others have the bulky flat on top and others have the little round on top....

Larger side up.

1 month later
#587 6 years ago

There's a cam shaped barrier which holds the balls in the lock. Over time it gets bashed and mis shapen and the balls can sneak round the back of it. Mine does it loads. You can buy a new one or try and adjusting it round a bit. But I'm pretty sure it's a STEPS ramp off job to get access. Not sure you can adjust it from beneath but I'll stand corrected on that

#589 6 years ago

It's this thing. Part number in description

IMG_7204 (resized).PNGIMG_7204 (resized).PNG

1 month later
#605 6 years ago

I suspect a bad diode. Check every switch you replaced, desoldered etc.. And check the orientation of the diodes are correct. There's is some witch craft you can do to fault find the phantom switch but it blows my tiny little mind trying to understand it

1 month later
#646 6 years ago

The eyes and jaw are noisy by their nature mate. I wouldn't worry. I had raised inserts around the clock which I levelled by heating them up from beneath and clamping down with a deep throated G clamp (ooh eerrr) seemingly impossible to find in the U.K. So ordered mine from the states.
How'd that red colouring turn out? Mines faded to yellow. What sort of pen did you use

#651 6 years ago

Cool, thanks for the pics mate. Looks good. I'll take a pic of the clamp tonight

#653 6 years ago

Shorting a switch row can cause that chip to pop. I'm no expert in that department so won't offer up any more advice. Does it look fried?

#655 6 years ago

Here Darth Vader affectionately models the 12" deep thirst G clamp
And how I used to level my inserts.

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1 month later
#696 6 years ago

You'll need a new cam mate. They get bashed and loose the curve which keeps the ball locked.

1 week later
#708 6 years ago
Quoted from Opiate:

I tried this but the raw is attached to a gear and I don't know how to get the right angle to detached it from that gear :/
How have other people done it?

You just have to rotate it manually until
The little nodget (couldn't think of a word) lines up with hole and then it comes apart. Good old fashioned jiggery pokery!!! Have a fiddle. You wont break it

1 month later
#755 6 years ago

Does anyone know if MoP are the Euro distributors? Can’t see it on their website yet

#764 6 years ago
Quoted from drummermike:

100% working with new playfield.

When FH is done nice, it’s still of the best looking pins of all time. I just can’t see me ever selling mine.

1 month later
#842 6 years ago

You’ve gotta wonder how the hell the paint wore off there in the first place.
Unless they were going for the”Bobby Charlton” sweep over look

2 months later
#915 6 years ago
Quoted from newtoit:

I'm in the market for a new funhouse translite. Any recommendations? I don't know if the eBay ones are legit. Is there a certain manufacturer that makes a licensed translite?

You could go for the Pinball dreams 3D translite

3 months later
#998 5 years ago

First step would be strip mech and see what’s broken. More than likely a snapped plunger. If it were the resistors there would likely be smoke assuming the coils aren’t disconnected

3 months later
#1273 5 years ago
Quoted from lordloss:

Cabinet question. For the pivot nut/carriage bolt, is that all it is? Just the two parts, no bushing or anything?

It should go carriage bolt, large washer, pivot bolt. The washer should then cover the earth braid.

8 months later
#1520 4 years ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Ok, in need of a pic of the sound boards connectors and their cables if someone has that

As it goes..... I do. Mine is out for repair so I took some pics

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1 month later
#1613 4 years ago

I guess welding them up is the solution. Or a home brew fix would be something like JB WELD.
They all buzz when he looks left and right though mate.

#1640 4 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

I am having some balls blow right past the mech on the lock shot from time to time. I don’t know what I might be missing but is this a common issue with a known solution?

I might need one at some point but don’t know if that’s enough.

Quoted from desertT1:

I am having some balls blow right past the mech on the lock shot from time to time. I don’t know what I might be missing but is this a common issue with a known solution?

I might need one at some point but don’t know if that’s enough.

Yes it’s a common issue. The ball lock cam will need replacing. Over time they get battered out of shape, enough for a ball to sneak past the cam. It basically looks like metal circle with a bite taken out of it

4 months later
#1759 4 years ago

Doesn’t sound like the pinball heaven customer service I know. They are usually impeccable. Is the UK based company?

1 month later
#1803 4 years ago
Quoted from pudealee:

I'd love to do a playfield swap sometime, but I'm too chicken.

It took me about 9 years to pluck up the courage!! Did my first swap last year on a TAF. It’s not that bad. Very rewarding when done. You should give it a go. It can’t make you pregnant

3 months later
#1955 3 years ago

In a word... no. But if the coil fires when it’s supposed to, it probably just needs dismantling, cleaning, reassembling. The coil may need a new sleeve and the mech might be a bit gummed up but it should be obvious when you dissect it

6 months later
#2382 3 years ago

For some reason I replied to this in the whirlwind club thread before, leaving everyone rather perplexed
Mine also came with half red half blue which is far too dull and I don’t like but with pinstadiums it becomes playable and doesn’t look too bad. I’ll stick with it for now and look to change soon

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#2384 3 years ago


Right that’s it. I give up. There’s something sinister going on here. I’ll get my coat

9 months later
#3230 2 years ago
Quoted from HC2016:

It’s getting late and I’m not happy with you now … re-theme …MARRIED .

“You don’t know what’s down there”

2 weeks later
#3285 2 years ago

I cured this on mine by putting a slim plastic shim between the shooter housing and the cabinet. It was enough to pull the shooter dead centre and I no longer have issues with that. Others I know have actually filed out the cabinet to pull the entire shooter mech across a bit further but that was a little extreme for my liking.
Removing the post sleeve would still help for a plunge that didn’t make it to the first step, as when it rolls back down towards the plunger it can hit that post and bounce out back into play. The only reason it hits the post on the way up after plunging is because the plunger is not dead centre. If that makes any sense!!

2 months later
#3550 2 years ago

If you reseated everything last time and it came back on, I would suggest you have a cold solder joint on the header pins for the gi. Reflow those and see how you go. Sounds plausible especially as you say there are no signs of burnt connectors

4 months later
#3995 1 year ago
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:

Does anyone know if anyone built out any new wiring harnesses for Funhouse or if there was ever a hoard of NOS harness?
Mine is so dirty and not sure wife will let me run it thru diswasher.

Hang it outside on your washing line. Give it a good spray with degreaser (simple green!) and hose it down. It should come up ok mate

10 months later
#4607 1 year ago

Edit sorry didn’t look at it properly ignore me

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#4608 1 year ago

Edit. Cancel my last didn’t look at it properly

#4611 1 year ago

Could you put it into switch edge test so you can hear when a switch is activated then lift the playfield pull the switch down from underneath?

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