(Topic ID: 64458)

Funhouse!? Club... (Fans welcome)

By mof

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 11 hours ago by Lodi
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#3866 2 years ago

""I have a “player’s condition” Funhouse that I am thinking about a more or less full restore. One of the issues that I am having is that I cannot turn the volume down and there is some baseline static heard on the speakers. I did some research on Pinside about this problem and the sound board is the likely problem (failing digital pot or amp?). I did the easy stuff first (reseated ribbon cables, factory reset, volume override to “yes”). When I look at my machine it has an extra board (A13502) that runs from the sound board to the MPU. Apparently it is the “sound overlay board” from System 11 and was found on a few Funhouse and Dr. Dude machines. The FH manual that came with my machine does not include the A13502 board in the back board parts schematic. Could this extra board be causing any of the sound problems? Will I need this board if I rebuild/replace the sound board?""

I posted the above in the alpha-numeric topic last week and I didn’t get many replies. I am hoping that the Funhouse specific forum will be more helpful. I have done some more homework and I have figured out that I have a prototype FH (side rails, extra STEPS switch, raised start button). It has the A13971 sound board and the A13502 board. What needs looking at to fix the volume control?

I found the answer about using the A13502 board on Pinside and it is a bit of a work around. If I can figure out the volume and static problems with boards I have I will just use them.

On a separate note: with all of the Mirco playfield problems where can I source a new Funhouse playfield? I would really rather not order from Marco given all of the issues with his playfields. I did reach out to Mr. Kruzman about having him work his magic on a Mirco FH playfield.

#3872 2 years ago
Quoted from Zablon:

Your volume knob is in the cabinet on the left side by the tilt bob if you didn't know. You cannot use the up/down buttons they do not work with your machine. You also cannot go above a certain code level. It is possible you have issues with a board, but the volume knob gets scratchy and flaky over time and need cleaned or they cut out, etc. If you have not already looked into this, that is where I would start. I will check my manuals to see if I have the Sys-11 board schematics but I really doubt the board is your issue.
Funhouse was made around the same time they were changing backend systems. The protos/samples and probably the first 100 or so use the old analog system (Sys-11). WPC was the newer digital version that uses the volume buttons.
Since you say you have the extra STEPS target congrats. I don't think very many of those were made. However...that does kind of put a damper on your plan to get a remake playfield. The remakes are not going to match yours, but on the plus side, I think all of the early games have some sort of clear coat or mylar on them. If it needs work you would be better off sending it out to get it repaired and clear coated.
You can find more information and pdf's of manuals for the soundboards here
https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=966
The more I think about this (because I also have an early game) anyone aware of anyone converting from Sys-11 to WPC? Everything seems to be there to do it, just maybe change out the boards and upgrade the ROMS?

You have it figured out. There is a pot switch behind the tilt mechanism. It does control the volume and it does give off static when turned. If this is the same as the pot switches on my old stereo amps and receivers I should be able to fix it with some Deoxit. Thank you so much. It does have the usual four switches behind the coin door and the volume bars do go down to about half way on the alpha numeric screen. It does not turn down the volume, that said

I went and reviewed everything on this machine. I suspect that it is some bastard child of a system 11 and an 89WPS. I was incorrect about the STEPS switches: it only has the four (STEP). It does have the prototype start switch, the extended side rails and obviously the older sound boards. It does not appear to have the diamond plate playfield. It does have a significant amount of mylar on the playfield. There is soe good news to this as it will make finding a new playfield easier.

Again, thank you for your help.

#3873 2 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

I can't help you much with the sound, as I am no that familiar with the difference between the System 11 and WPC style cabs.
As far as the PF goes, that will be a tough find. At least it has been for me so far. I won't risk the Mirco PF myself and I know Ron does amazing work, but from what I have seen far too many have ink adhesion issues. No amount of clearing is going to fix a faulty foundation.

I agree with you. I am not so sure that I want to wait a year for a playfield to "cure" properly as "pinballinreno" mentioned. Funhouse seems to have been a very problematic playfield from Mirco. This is not an inexpensive item to purchase. More importantly, the amount of time and effort involved in a playfield exchange demands a playfield that will not have problems. Let us hope that in the near future there will be another and much improved source of playfields. Until then I will wait and hang in with my player's pinball FH.

If I manage to stumble across a source of FH playfields I will private message you.

#3875 2 years ago
Quoted from Zablon:

Sounds like you got one close to mine and I also call mine Frankenstein (lol). As they started building the production machines they were just using up whatever left over sample parts they had. Do you have any red circuit boards under the playfield? You can also check the right side area by the flippers and see if anything is written there to see if it has any clearcoat.
As for the pf itself....really you should look at how bad your pf is...because buying a replacement should be the last option. If it has mylar, it can't be in too bad shape under it....but that is some work to remove it without damaging the pf.

The circuit boards are standard green. The playfield does not mention anything about the clear coat (no diamond plate). I did run some deoxit through the sound pot and I will repeat an application as I know from stereo amps it can take some time to free up the gunk.

I have enclosed some playfield pictures. You can see where the mylar ends. The big wear is on the shooter lane, the inside lane, the outside lane and by Rudy's jaw. I put a mylar dot on the left ball drop as it did have some serious wear. I would call this planking and I remember reading somewhere about this on FH playfields that did not get the diamond coat treatment. I don't know how amenable this is to being repaired. Any comments from playfield restorers on this?

Anyone have thoughts on the overlays as an alternative? There is a playfield with an overlay for sale on E-bay and seller is very open that it is not perfect. I just feel that if I go to the trouble of a playfield replacement I should get the best one that I can. As it is right now the machine is very playable. I am considering doing a full rebuild and it might be a daunting task. I know, I know, takes lots of photographs and then some more.

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#3885 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

A year is a bit extreme.
Ron Kruzman recommends 6 to 9 months for his playfields, and no less then 3 or 4 months.
Its not a manufacturer problem per se, its more a problem with how long it takes for moden clearcoat to cure sufficiently.
I bought a brand new car and was warned not to wash it in a car wash, for at least 3 months but to allow it to cure in the hot sun.
Playfields cant be cured in the hot sun like cars. They take a lot longer to cure indoors.

This begs the question: do the big manufacturers (Stern, JJP) wait nine months for their playfields to cure? I would also ask if Mirco waits any length of time for his playfields to cure?

That aside it would appear that Mirco has other issues with his playfields.

I ask these questions as someone who wants to restore a Funhouse and may require a new playfield.

Quoted from paynemic:

If you get one from Mirco let it cure a year. I just put mine in and have pooling and chipping. I couldn’t wait, and didn’t know I had to.

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