(Topic ID: 64458)

Funhouse!? Club... (Fans welcome)

By mof

10 years ago


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#355 7 years ago

Hi, new member of the club! Just brought mine in via freight. Love it so far but have a quick question. When I first fired it up I had no sound and no insert lighting. I hunted around and found a connector loose to fix the sound. I can't seem to find anything to get the inserts to light. Flashers and gi seem fine. Oh yeah, pop bumpers don't light either. I tested all the fuses for continuity. One seemed to fail so I wrapped it in tinfoil to test and still no go. Any thoughts?

Thamks in advance!

#358 7 years ago

Roger on the foil fuse test. An old pin guy taught me that (apparently bad) habit.

I'll read up on that thread. Thanks for the link. Hope I can get it working.

#362 7 years ago

I like it! I might need to redecal my machine. A little faded...

3 weeks later
#395 7 years ago

Hey guys. I swapped the power driver board for a new rottendog one and insert lighting all working. So I have a hacked board that could likely be repaired. Anyone want to make a reasonable offer for it?

Next question: anyone have great sound improvement tips? Rudy's callouts are awesome but muffled and scratchy. I imagine that's pretty standard, so I'm hoping you have ideas to improve it. Thanks

#397 7 years ago

Huh. Music seems ok. But it's easier to "get" music. It doesn't have to be as clear to make out words. I'll listen more closely tomorrow.

Voice just seems a little am radio

1 month later
#410 7 years ago

Where did you connect in the sub?

1 week later
#413 7 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Anyone else have an external sub hooked up to their funhouse? I hooked up a psw10 and it's really incredible how much better the sound is, huge improvement, very full sound. I hooked it to my whirlwind and it's a bit underwhelming.

Where did you connect the sub in?

#415 7 years ago

Awesome! Thanks!

2 months later
#430 7 years ago

Hi Funhouse club! Relatively new owner here. I have leveled my fh and it seems to have a little problem but I wanted to run it by you.

What is the ideal behavior when you hit the right orbit and it comes down to the upper left flipper and you DONT hit it with that flipper? Is it supposed to go to the right or left flipper? Right now mine goes sdtm. I looked closely and the metal guide rail seems to be bent out a bit right where it ends above the upper flipper so it kicks the ball to the right. I'll get a pic when I'm home again, but does that sound right?

2 months later
#472 7 years ago

Hey guys, I'm curious about my funhouse, it may have been modified so I need some feedback about normal behavior. When you shoot the right gangway (orbit) and it's coming out the left above the left flipper, if you don't hit it with that flipper, what is it supposed to do? Mine goes sdtm. I noticed someone appears to have bent the little flap right above the upper left flipper out a bit. So I'm not sure what it's supposed to do anymore. Go across and hit right flipper? Left? Sdtm is normal behavior? If you're new to my game it can catch you off guard and it's annoying.

#478 7 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Mine comes down to my left flipper and every now and then will hiy left sling. You have a picture of yours?

Here it is. Just looks kicked out to me...

IMG_0948 (resized).JPGIMG_0948 (resized).JPG

#489 7 years ago
Quoted from lukex:

My understanding is that it is a shortened name for an optical switch.

Correct. Like a light beam. These switches are normally closed (beam connects the sender and receiver). Then when a ball passes through them it briefly interrupts the beam and trades open. You can also open the switch by putting a finger in between the sender and receiver. If it is bad, it could be disconnected or either sender or receiver can be bad.

#491 7 years ago

Hey guys,
I keep having my rottendog funhouse board burn out fuse 101. The previous owner put a rottendog board in so I don't know much about it. He had it over fused (per the original funhouse manual, supposed to be 2.5A) he had 3A but it's even blowing the 3A after running a bit. Not immediately. Any thoughts to get me started? Bad coil?

#492 7 years ago

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#498 7 years ago

Thanks for the ideas guys. I was thinking flipper coil going out too. I'll check ohms. Appreciate it.

3 weeks later
#508 7 years ago
Quoted from eli_lilly:

On mine it's located on the bottom. My guess is its to prevent the ball from dropping directly onto the inline switch slot, avoiding wear. The bumper pad is generic, see http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/23-6629 .
-E

I would love to see pictures of where people have the pad. Mine is at the left end of the wire form and my ball will routinely bounce back and end up spinning down into the inlane rather than the steps plunger. I'll take a pic when I get home

3 weeks later
#520 7 years ago

Hey funhouse fans,
Rudy is having a hard time! Recently, when I turn it on it powers off and then restarts again. Often doesn't even make it therough the self tests before rebooting itself.

Is this the dreaded Williams reboot glitch I've heard about? It has a rottendog power board in it, so I'm not sure what to think. Any ideas?

#522 7 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Go to pinwiki and read the reset info. I'd start by unplugging j101 and 102 and then plugging them back in. Resets are.common and inevitable, don't fret.

Ok. Thanks. Fretting averted. I'll read up. I knew there was a resource available.

#524 7 years ago
Quoted from pinster68:

Long-awaited IPB playfield swap underway...

You'll have to tell me how it goes. I have a playfield in storage for it but am very intimidated.

3 weeks later
#549 6 years ago
Quoted from Dewey68:

I've had my playfield swapped for at least 3 years now. I've noticed and complained (maybe even in this thread) about my left gangway not lighting correctly when going through the roll over lane that should light it. I figured it was a software issue.
While playing last night I noticed that the mirror would light when going through the "light gangway" lane. I've had the two rollover switches reversed for over 3 years now! What an idiot! Swapped them around, and hey, what do you know? The left gangway is lighting correctly now.

Dang. Like me removing all ghosting leds only to find I had one socket wired backward....

4 weeks later
#562 6 years ago

Can you compress only the text parts and keep schematics at original resolution?

5 months later
#727 6 years ago

Fun story! What did you pay for it this time?

3 years later
#2557 3 years ago

New to the club (again). I bought a kind of basket case funhouse from a friend. Over payed, of course.

First big problem is the screen won’t come on at all. I checked all the fuses and reseated all connections. Which brings me to problem number two...

One of the big connectors (I can’t remember right now 12 pin? On the power driver board left side?) with all the yellow wires looping back on themselves ) was all burnt and crumbles in my hand when I tried to reseat it. I’m hoping that is also my first problem. Any chance?

Anyone have a good tutorial for rebuilding connectors that have the wires looping to multiple pins?

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#2560 3 years ago
Quoted from brado426:

This guy explains how to replace those connectors.

It looks like your Rudy eyelids are not going to work. I'm guessing the piston that drives the eyelids has detached. You're going to need to take Rudy apart to fix that. I've done it a couple times.

Thanks for the link!

Yeah. The eyelids looked weird. I’ll work on that when i get the display working for sure.

#2566 3 years ago

Thanks for all the advice guys! I can’t wait to get Rudy up and working. Right now I can’t really even troubleshoot due to my completely blank display. I uploaded a video. I’m hoping something will catch someone’s eye and I can get a hint where to start. It clearly boots and plays. I think it’s alerting me that the time isn’t set. I think the batteries on the board were very old, but thankfully not leaking.

Thanks in advance.

#2569 3 years ago
Quoted from brado426:

Have you checked to make sure the scoreboard is getting any power at all? I actually had a similar problem but never did find out exactly why my scoreboard was dead. I pulled it out and set it face down on the playfield. After that, the scoreboard wouldn't come on. As I recall, I unplugged and plugged in the connectors and it started working again. Never did find out exactly why it wasn't powering on... maybe a sketchy connector. Since then, it has been rock solid so I haven't touched it. Your HV circuit is certainly suspect as that does commonly fail. Check to make sure you are getting the high voltage.
If worse comes to worse, you might want to consider investing in a replacement scoreboard for around $200. If you're ever in Southern California, feel free to stop by and bring your scoreboard and plug into mine to see if it works.

Thanks for the advice. Where do I check the hv? I know I have 5v on one connector. The ribbon cable I’ve reconnected a few times to check. Seems ok. There’s one other connector (with two wires, maybe white?) that I get no reading. That’s suspect but I’m not sure what it does. Maybe that’s the hv?

#2571 3 years ago

Will do. Dumb question from me though, does it all pertain to funhouse? Is the display on funhouse a dmd technically or are they the same, basically?

#2573 3 years ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

My first link was providing some guidance on trouble shooting high voltage and displays. Funhouse was BEFORE DMD, so here is a specific link which might give you the specifics for high voltage and displays in Funhouse:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-display-your-thoughts

Ok. Great reading. Thanks! I’m gonna get an xpin. But hopefully I can forgive it our work the original display

#2577 3 years ago

I searched the thread a bit, but can anyone point me to a video tutorial for disassembling and repairing Rudy?

Nvm. Found it. Google

#2579 3 years ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

The Rudy guides on pinballsupernova.com & pinballhelp.com were pretty good. They help you see how it s=works, and then some repair pointers. Is that the ones you found?

Yes. Thanks a lot though. Can’t wait to tear into him! Do you think his eyelid problem will be easy to discover out of the machine? I can’t run through switch tests and stuff yet with my display out. And xpin is taking a while to ship.

1 week later
#2587 3 years ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Yes. If you watched those videos, it should be pretty obvious where the problem(s) is once you have it on the bench. I suspect you have one or both of the plunger armatures damaged. They are tough to find, but I would try Marco first.

Ok! Got Rudy working. The xpin screen did the trick too.

So now I’m just missing the lampshade! Anyone have a spare? Or if anyone upgraded, do you have the original I can buy? I haven’t been able to find one anywhere. Also, the place it mounts on the plastic ramp broke off. Any ideas on an alternative mounting? And is it just GI or controlled?

1 week later
#2608 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The game has all new parts, pinsound, motion control with shaker, CPR glass, 100% LED's, GI-OCD, LED-OCD, pinscore display. All boards upgraded and certified by Chris Hibler. Running the 9.05H blinky ROM.
I have the 4 different orchestrations for the pinsound. They are really cool, the xmas one is weird lol.
New cabinet, playfield, ramps, armor, legs, pinball-pro speakers, NOS plastic set, older clear starposts that I had not the new bluish ones etc..., titan rubbers, perfect play flipper rubber.
All new parts in Rudy's head, coils, plungers, rivets, jaw and eyes. Everything except the metal box and face.
Silk screened decals I think from classic arcades.
Modfather painted Rudy's face. It was very sun burned and I wanted to change him up a little.
Im very happy with his new look.
The game plays like a dream!

Is there a pinsound mix with original sounds but much improved quality?

1 week later
#2674 2 years ago

So I’m doing a light restoration on my recently acquired funhouse. Any thoughts on this playfield discoloration above the rollovers? It’s in heavy traffic areas not covered by Mylar. I scrubbed it pretty good with novus and it won’t come up. I’m worried I’m going to take up more paint around that planking. Thoughts?

On a related note, anyone have a generally decent funhouse playfield or a non Mirco repro they’d like to sell? Asking for a friend..

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#2680 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

That playfield is toast, replace it with the mirco and do a full resto on the game.
Or, sell it to me, lol ! I have enough left over parts to do another full restore, including a spare rudy head.

I’ll call you if I need any parts! Has anyone done the Mirco funhouse swap? How did it go?

I did a Mirco Gorgar and it was a literal nightmare. Holes were cut WAY off, etc. Not the dimples, but mechanism cutouts through the playfield were way off. It was tough.

Didn’t cpr do a run of funhouse a while back? Anyone have one laying around?

#2741 2 years ago

I just got my fully working beater for $3300. Probably going to put about $1000 into it. But no new playfield. Just going to touch it up.

#2743 2 years ago

I will bear that in mind! But it won’t be 3300..

#2752 2 years ago

Anyone have a spare lampshade? Like an original (if you got the upgraded one) or an unused upgraded one? I’d like to replace my missing one.

2 weeks later
#2794 2 years ago

Does anyone have access to the original source tapes for Rudy’s voice callouts? I wonder if they could be used or the old ones cleaned up for pinsound usage. I would love to have Rudy more loud and clear.

2 months later
#2998 2 years ago
Quoted from mjenison:

My topper
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

That’s cool. Is it wired to those flashers?

2 weeks later
#3063 2 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

I really wanted one, I think they look great...I just cant get past the fact that the "F" looks like a "J" when its lit up. I wish they would have added the 2 missing dots.
This isnt an F...
[quoted image]
Junhouse?
I know thats how the original looks (no dot on each side of the F) but with original lighting it looks ok.
Theres no getting around it, when its lit up it looks like a "J"

I wonder if you could mod the mod and split the signal for that one led? And put one on either side?

3 weeks later
#3176 2 years ago

Are these legs non-standard? They seem to have a weird crimp to them. Pulls them in so tight that even with metal leg protectors it still puckers the radcals. Any thoughts?

pinballinreno did you do radcals?

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1 week later
#3222 2 years ago
Quoted from Zee:

He's always in silly mode if the player up is "Slick". Strange things happen at random for that player. Because it's random, you might not notice anything unusual in many plays. But then some off-the-wall comment from Rudy is heard for that player...it's great!

I wonder if an updated rom could add more randomness to all players? I’m the only pinball person in my family so I never play Slick!

2 weeks later
#3280 2 years ago

There’s a post for the left shooter lane on the right side. Does everyone have a sleeve on that? Mine is tripping up my skillshot over there every time. I got new rubbers and can’t remember if had one on there before.

#3286 2 years ago

Thanks all!

1 month later
#3410 2 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Will these be limited, or produced to demand?

If your original is not a basket case, consider sending it off for restoration and clear coat. I got mine back from CaptainNeo and it looks great. Price for restoration was about the same as a new Mirco and its a lot easier to repopulate because all the holes are accurate for mech placement.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I wish I had done this instead of a new Mirco.

1 week later
#3444 2 years ago
Quoted from Zablon:

The mirco FH playfields definitely have some differences. ONe big one is the grooves in the shooter lanes are shorter and seem to affect ball trajectory on launch.

Agreed. My skill shots haven’t been the same at all.

#3445 2 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Agreed.
I did a mirco playfield in my TOM and I thought it looked great and most of the dimples were in the right place. The clear was so thick I had to fiddle with the switches more than a normal field swap but other than that I didnt have the chipping or pooling issues that others experienced.
Pros of using Mirco (in my experience):
Quick to arrive
Slightly cheaper (in my case it was $100 difference)
Its brand new and beautiful
Cons of Mirco:
Thick/soft clear
Errors in the art files (I can only speak about TOM on this)
Color differences from original
Missing holes, or holes where they shouldnt be
Dimples are more of a guideline (more time consuming to get proper placement)
Chipping of clear (again, I did not experience this in my TOM)
Customer service or concerns seem to be lacking (I did not experience this but it is well documented)
Pros of restored original:
Parts easily go back on in the same location
Thinner clear
No missing or incorrect holes
Cons of restored original:
Takes quite a bit of time for turn atound
More expensive (not much)
A few more bits of info from my experiences-
Neo did a fantastic job, but his communication could be a bit better.
Having a new playfield and the old one side by side make it much easier to swap a few parts parts over at a time vs. removing all parts and storing them for months, then having to place everything from pics.
Some people put more value in a game with a restored original vs repro playfield.

One thing I did on my Gorgar was to slide everything onto a sheet of cardboard (from a pinball box!) and pin them down there in the exact place they were on the playfield. Then when I moved to the new pf it was simple. Won’t work if everything needs a cleaning though. But that’s true in a direct swap too.

#3456 2 years ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I have Radcals on my Funhouse and they look very nice. They are easier to apply than vinyl but still need some effort to apply and finish. They are very durable and have a super glossy finish. Totally worth it for anyone who has difficulty applying vinyl.

They are easier to apply, no question. They look awesome, arguably better than standard decals. My big problem with doing new decals is you spend a ton of effort and time sanding and filling, etc and then one bump with a belt buckle and all your work is ruined.
Just my opinion though.

2 weeks later
#3524 2 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

I have a repro Rudy head.[quoted image]

Are you selling that? I could use one

#3531 2 years ago

I would definitely pay to get a high quality update to the original soundtrack. And maybe some expansion. But it would have to be original voice. I can’t handle the new voices.

2 weeks later
#3672 2 years ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

If you can't or don't want to replace FH lockdown bar...
I'd be inclined to see if a strip of beer foam tape behind the inverted edge, would be beneficial in protecting your RadCals.

I had to physically bend mine with a vise and pliers to get it to not mess with my radcals.

If I just bought a new one, what would it order that would be better?

1 week later
#3711 2 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Heres a simple speaker upgrade that makes a huge difference in sound quality and volume...I just finished my restoration with this set up and it sounds incredible for around $100-120
I also does away with the choke coil...
http://www.dziedzic.us/wpc_speaker_sound_info.html
Pictures of speaker I used...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/no-catchy-thread-title-this-time-just-a-funhouse-restoration/page/5#post-6444070
I have tried flipper fidelity and pinball pro in the past and was unhappy with the results.
FYI, my game runs on the WPC platform not system 11
I cant speak as to how well this works on system 11
Also, I still have my choke coil if someone wants it...but it seems easy enough to source a new one

Very helpful! Thanks for that. So in the link you posted, you used the pre-dcs wiring scheme at the very bottom of that page? Does it help with Rudy clarity?

3 weeks later
#3803 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

No, the current sound ROM is just fine.
When in doubt check the available sound ROMs on the basement arcade website, compared to your version number and order accordingly.
When dealing with ancient ROMS, its best to check.
My advise is, either get the 2.0 upgrade or buy the pinsound plus.
Either way get pinsound and the shaker, its AMAZING!

I have a pinsound. Do I need the shaker from pinsound or will any shaker do?

1 month later
#3854 2 years ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

I bought a Mirco playfield. All and all great experience. Fast shipment, Looks amazing, most of the dimples on the underside were spot on. Had to drill just a couple holes not there like at the ramp support and for the light at the left shooter lane. Would buy again for sure.

Watch for pooling. I had some around the post in front of Rudy. Some chipping under when I took the post up. It all ironed down and is invisible under the post now. But I will never buy another Mirco

1 week later
#3883 2 years ago
Quoted from reynolds531:

I agree with you. I am not so sure that I want to wait a year for a playfield to "cure" properly as "pinballinreno" mentioned. Funhouse seems to have been a very problematic playfield from Mirco. This is not an inexpensive item to purchase. More importantly, the amount of time and effort involved in a playfield exchange demands a playfield that will not have problems. Let us hope that in the near future there will be another and much improved source of playfields. Until then I will wait and hang in with my player's pinball FH.
If I manage to stumble across a source of FH playfields I will private message you.

If you get one from Mirco let it cure a year. I just put mine in and have pooling and chipping. I couldn’t wait, and didn’t know I had to.

3 months later
#4118 1 year ago
Quoted from pencilneck:

Height adjustment isn't done that way, it is based on how the disc (or flipper) rest on the plastic bushing that the rod goes through. If you loosen the clamp and push the rod/disc up a bit, you've just made more up/down slop, but the disc will still rest on the top of that plastic bushing.
Post about ball hoping over disc:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-club/page/72#post-6689493
Post showing wash in place to raise disc:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-club/page/72#post-6691190
You do need a tiny bit of up/down slop with shaft (flipper or disc), right at the thickness of credit card. Marco seems to toss one of the plastic tools in with various orders:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8194
And one can be cut from an old CC.
And with the tweak I did on coil bracket, bending it out a bit to get a touch more travel / rotation of the disc, no reports of issues over brutal non stop use at SFGE.
The Mirco playfield on the other hand.... I'll never purchase anything from them again:
[quoted image]
My playfield order was placed on Jan of 2020, showed up a week or two later, then sat in my basement until April 2021, so well over a year. I've put on maybe 50-ish games during my shake down and then onto the floor at SFGE last weekend... one weekend and that happens. Grrrrrrr.

Dude so sorry about that. Happened to me too. I was able to iron it out before chipping g and then i creatively covered the areas with protectors. Mirco is the worst.

#4119 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Dude so sorry about that. Happened to me too. I was able to iron it out before chipping and then I creatively covered the areas with protectors. Mirco is the worst.

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