Anyone have a source for Rudy-specific parts. I need a crank arm, both eyelid plungers, sector gear, and jaw link. I have found a few of the pieces here and there but all. I would love to find new head/jaw/eye plastics but I'm guessing those don't exist. My Rudy is in fair structural shape but needs some help cosmetically. Has anyone painted Rudy? Does the paint hold up?

You're right. I could swear that several of these were out of stock the last time I looked. They have all but one - eyes closed plunger. Said they would have it back in stock soon. Thanks!

I am starting my first pinball machine resto with Funhouse. I have a new playfield/ramps/plastics and will clean, polish or replace all parts, so it should be a nice piece when done. I'd love some feedback on a few playfield items.

Incondescent vs LED lights? I'm not a purist and in general I love LEDs, but I don't want it to look unpleasant (too bright I guess). I also don't want dingy yellow if going incandescents. If you are using something you love please let me know (brand, intensity, color, kit vs individual bulbs would be very helpful).

PopBumpers - Opaque Bodies or clear with rollover LEDs?

Star Posts - Multi-color, clear or specific colors in certain spots.

Rings/Bands - Thoughts on Titan Competition Silicone? White, black, clear, multi-color?

Will add Cliffy's protectors and mylar. If you have any thoughts or recommendations let me know. This will be a process.

Completist - Thank you! I may go with incandescent so I don’t lose the dimming effect.

Something else that would be helpful is a playfield post map. I took lots of pictures but I’m not sure my machine has posts in all the right spots. I’m sure I can figure it out but knowing what goes where would be helpful. I was surprised the manual does not have this. It lists just about everything else on the playfield.

Great info everyone! I did not think about the destructive aspects of incondescents. With what I will be investing in this machine its definitely a keeper so I want to do it right. Seems like LEDs w/OCD boards is the way to go. I assume I need both boards to do it right. Correct? It doesn’t sound like anyone is using Comet’s FH kit. They claim to mix and match colored bulbs for some desired effect. Am I correct in assuming that 2smd frosted sunlights would provide the best overall flexibility with the ability to dim them back via the app? I don’t want it too over the top bright but I like the idea of being able to adjust to taste? jawjaw - would this be too bright in your opinion?

Completist brings up an interesting point regarding switches. While I have everything torn down, should I replace all switches. I was planning on replacing most of the leaf switches and the optos but figured I'd let the micro switches ride as long as they are good. This rebuild thing is definitely a slipery slope. Its hard to replace one thing and not the next. I had planned on replacing a lot of PF bits but the mighty Harbor Freight tumbler performed magic. I really just need to replace plastics, pop bumpers, bands and broking items. Everythign else cleaned up nicely. pinballinreno I think your estimate of $2,500 to $3,500 is spot on. I can't see restoring a machine for much less.

Thanks for all of the guidance on the lighting. Will definitely go with both OCD boards and LEDs. Will select my specific bulbs when things start to go back together.

Good info on the switches. Most of my wire forms are in good shape so I can just order the blank microswitches. Is Marcos the best outlet? Looks like there are two different typse; the small black ones and slightly larger white ones. As long as the new ones look the same and have the same post configuration is it safe to assume they are the same? Are the diods throughout the machine all the same (I have not looked at the markings yet)? If so I will just order a bunch. I may need some help on the leaf switches. There are some that look similar but are slightly different. All of the coils appear to be in good shape. Some are newer so I suspect the machine had a partial rebuild at some point in its life. I will replace all of the sleeves. Should I replace the springs. They seem fine but I'm not if they have lost any resistance. dmacy mentined replacing the coil stops. Anything else to consider while things are torn down. I will start a build thread this week. Thanks again!

Has anyone tried automotive protective film to protect the playfield? it seems logical to cover the whole playfield rather than using the mylar templates that only cover a portion. You could even apply a ceramic coating on top. It does tend to have a little give so maybe its too soft. Just curious.

I like this because it has all of the detailed areas but it does not have the main body of the playfield like the one at Marco. Is this intended to be used in addition or does the main area not need to be protected?

Who has nice looking dark blue double-star posts? The ones listed on Marco's site are a funky bluish/purple color. Titan and others do not have dark blue, although they have good looking singles.

pinballinreno - I ordered the kit you recommended from ebay. My new playfiled is from Micro so it is clear coated.

What is recommended to protect the clear coat, just a good synthetic wax? I was thinking about applying an automotive ceramic coating (https://usa.gtechniq.com/products/auto/protect/exterior/paint/crystal-serum-light). Its not terribly slick but it provides a layer of protection and can be topcoated with wax if desired. Anyone have experience with it? I have applied it to all of my cars and its amazing stuff. I have read that you should wax the playfield before applying the mylar so it can be removed in the future. True? Thanks!

I'm in the midst of an extensive FH restoration. Started during COVID and I'm just now getting back to it. Need to order decals/graphics. Does anyone have a recommendation for where to get the best set? I'm familiar with Phoenix Arcade but I know there are others. Any thoughts? Thanks!

Have not seen these. Very cool! Can you share a few more pictures?

FunHouse Restoration questions, continued:

1. Rivets - Replacing all plastics and ramps. I ordered the parts a while back but I need to know what size rivets to order to get through this operation. I assume I will need a handful of different lengths. Can anyone give me some guidance? I think I’m going to order the Pintonka rivet tool. Open to other suggestions if there is something better. I don’t think I need a full press. I have one other game (Fishtails) I will do in the future so whatever I get should be capable of doing two full games.

2. Lighting - The loaded question! I’m thinking I will go with Comet LEDs using the OCD board for inserts. My understanding is that this will help retain the game’s dimming features and will allow me to adjust brightness. Do I need the GI OCD board as well? Should I do the LED Flashers? Thought I would get Comet’s game specific kit since I haven’t done this before, but I’m open to suggestions.

3. Speakers/Sound - Heard FH does not have a very good sound board. Should I stick with stock speakers or go with the Pinsound kit, which has a new soundboard?

As always, thank you for your help.

Can someone please help me with a wiring question? I would like to know the wire colors going to the “Millions Plus” insert light right in front of the upper left flipper. I am doing a complete rebuild of a well worn machine and had to replace all of the bayonet sockets. I want to make sure I did not make a mistake. The wiring diagram shows Red/Brown + Yellow/Gray. I have four wires - Red/Brown + Red/Black (together) w/diode on the side posts, and 2x Yellow/Gray on the center post. I’m 99% positive this is what I removed but I’m curious since the wiring diagram doesn’t mention Red/Black. Thanks in advance.

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Thank you so much for taking the time to confirm this for me.

I have a ramp question. I’m dealing with a new play field and new ramps. The step ramp hits the main ramp which makes it sits about 1/2” above the lower front post, where it secures to the play field just above the ball drop. I can do one of two things. I can force it into position, which does not seem like a good solution, or I can install 3” post in place of the stock 2 1/2” post. See pictures. Has anyone experienced similar? Any thoughts?

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Perfect! Thank you! My FH lead a hard life. Many parts were swapped over the years so it’s difficult to tell what’s proper and what has been added/repaired by others. Thanks again!

Actually, you were spot on. I mistakenly confused the short post for the main ramp with this post. One is 2 1/2” and one is 3”. Thanks again.

Any speaker recommendatons for FunHouse? Given the age of the electronics will I benefit from a higher end speaker kit? Or, should just add three decent quality speakers and call it a day? Thanks!

So, go factory original, or go big w/pinsound! I'll have to check it out. Thanks!

Anyone know where to get the wedge sockets for the back box? I’ve checked Pinball Life, Marco and Planetary. No go. Terry at PL said he is having them remanufactured, but it will be a few months. If they are unavailable I will wait for those, but mine are pretty crispy and I have time while my boards are being done. Thanks in advance. Dave

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BTW, here are a few pictures of the progress on my restoration. Waiting for some parts to finish the cabinet and a couple of odds and ends on the playfield. Should be ready to go when I get the boards get back from @chrishibler. Then the moment of truth….

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Good thought, but I’m looking for a very specific sockets for the wedge bulbs in the back box. I don’t think they could be 3-D printed easily as they have brass contacts.

Mine are pretty crumbly on the front side, but they are in good shape on the back. I’ll probably just leave them alone until replacements become available. Terry @ PL told me it would be about 90 days before he would have them.

Great minds think a like. Cliffy’s already installed as well as mylar protectors.

This is the exact set of protectors that I used.

Anybody know where I can get a stencil for the warning language on the back of the back box, as well as recreations of the serial number labels? Below is the warning language I am looking for. Thanks!

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Big THANK YOU Chris! Can’t wait to get the boards back and wake Rudy back up!

I just finished Funhouse and went with Lowes satin cabinet paint. I’ve used it for house projects before, and it was terrific. Not so great on FunHouse. I think the amount of pigment required for the blue affects the finish. I applied it with a high end smooth roller, then dry rolled it for a very nice finish that looks sprayed on. Unfortunately, its more like flat paint than satin. After it dried for a couple of day I gave it a couple coats of satin clear Rustolium (rattle can). Problem solved! Looks great and has a very smooth, durable finish.

If I was going to do it again I would go with the rattle can. Lowes has three or four blues that are very much in the range of the FunHouse blue. If the color is off by 10% it’s not going to matter. You won’t even notice it.

Speaker Question: 4 ohm or 8 ohm? Need to replace the speaker since the stock ones are cooked. Do replacements need to be 8 ohm? I picked up an 8” 8 ohm woofer with a crossover for the cabinet, and a pair KENWOOD 6 1/2” 4 ohm 2-way speakers for the speaker panel. Will add an L-PAD. Are the 4 ohm’s OK for the panel or should I use 8 ohm midrange speakers instead? I don not see 8 ohm 2-ways anywhere. Currently have stock sound card but may upgrade to Pinsound in the future. Thanks.

Of course! I wasn’t thinking about them being in series. Makes total sense. Sometimes you just need someone to point out the obvious to you.

Great news! I just installed my OCD boards today.