FunHouse
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I'm trying to find a fh, nice player game with minimal pf wear. Not looking for perfection, but don't like pf wear either. Cliffy's to cover wear at scoops is fine. If anyone is thinking of selling in the nj area, please contact me. Thx
If anyone buys a set or has an extra, I need the big blue/white plastic by the lower right scoop. Mine is cracked.
Was having issues with rudys eyes not fully closing, finally figured out I was missing this nylon center flange that goes at the bottom of the coil. I thought I had a bad spring, but once I put this flange in, it worked perfectly. The diagram in the manual is pretty bad as its hidden. I saw the diagram mentioned this flange so I Googled the part number and it came up on Marco. Looked at my set up and realized it was missing. It came with the pinbits kit I ordered, but I couldn't figure out where it was supposed to go...now I know. Hope it helps someone else.
Happy to finally have this game complete, been in my work shop a month now...all ready to join the spot next to WW!
Finally finished my funhouse after working on it more than a month. Tore most of the top down and cleaned everything, fixed Rudy's eyes, which didn't move up and down, added comet leds and some accent lighting in the back left and the ball trough, under cab light kit, remote battery holder, cleaned subways, rebuilt parts of the flippers, did some touch up work (see before and after of left inlane pics), fixed broken wires, went through and cleaned all the mechs, replaced coil sleeves, repair2d shooter lane, and some other things. It will never be perfect, but is very nice for me. The game plays fantastic, really love it and it's resting in a nice place next ww!
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You are right, thanks. I missed that. I'm going to put a video of the undercab light up tonight. Ties into the 3 red, blue and white flashers.
Here's a video of the Undercab light I installed...the camera isnt picking up the red, green and blue very well, and the flashers they are tied to tend to fire quickly together, which makes it even harder for the camera, but in person, it's pretty distinct.
Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:I just picked up a basket-case funhouse this weekend and to be honest, I'm scared that I'm in a little out of my league. I am really looking for any new or used parts to start stocking up for some restoration work in the future. I am trying to stick to a budget as I'm in the process of looking for a first home with my wife, so used parts in decent condition are more than welcome. I am looking for a PF, ramps, etc. Thanks!
Agree, good luck. FH is not the game I would have picked to restore if money was an issue. That said, it so good of a game, it's worth the effort.
Anyone else have an external sub hooked up to their funhouse? I hooked up a psw10 and it's really incredible how much better the sound is, huge improvement, very full sound. I hooked it to my whirlwind and it's a bit underwhelming.
Quoted from paynemic:Where did you connect the sub in?
Alligator clips to the terminals of the Cabinet speaker. If you dont have alligator clips, just strip the wire long enough and wrap it around the terminals.
If the playfield doesnt have mylar bubbling and everything else is good, its easily worth 4. Games that need new playfields seem to go for 3000-3200.
Great game!
If anyone needs any blue paint to touch put their cabinet, I have almost an entire quart. Shame to just let it sit and waste away. Must be local. You can have it free.
Go to pinwiki and read the reset info. I'd start by unplugging j101 and 102 and then plugging them back in. Resets are.common and inevitable, don't fret.
I didn't light my scoops yet, but did do the backboard and trough.
http://lermods.com/t/funhouse-pinball-mods
I'm getting some bounce outs in the ball lock, what is the adjustment that needs to be made to keep the ball from going all the way through?
Thx
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:There's a cam shaped barrier which holds the balls in the lock. Over time it gets bashed and mis shapen and the balls can sneak round the back of it. Mine does it loads. You can buy a new one or try and adjusting it round a bit. But I'm pretty sure it's a STEPS ramp off job to get access. Not sure you can adjust it from beneath but I'll stand corrected on that
Thx, do you know the part number on it? Is ii the big metal piece I see from the top? Ramp off is not a big deal.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Hey everyone! I'm shopping out a FH for a friend. Rudy is very noisy, and his eyes don't close. Is there a rebuild kit I need or does he just need taken apart and cleaned?
Thanks!
Pinbits has a rebuild kit. His eyes don't close because the centering flange is probably toast.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Okay thanks so much. Now he's also really noisy when he moves his mouth and when his eyes move left. More indication of a rebuild needed or something else?
Not sure, but it could be his gears are gummed up. When you take him out, give everything a good cleaning and lube the gear. There's not much to him in terms of noise, two coils and the gear motor.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Thanks. Also I don't see the rebuild kit on pin bits. Just a eyeball protector set.
That's the kit...
http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_3&products_id=401
You won't need the eyelid protectors, but will likely need the round black centering flange and possibly the long plastic pieces that connect between the coil plunger and the eyelids. If I were you, I'd take him out and see what's going on. The manual has a very good diagram too. Then order that kit. You will need a small punch to get the roll pins out, kit comes with new ones.
Quoted from Pahuffman:My FunHouse lock doesn't seem to be working. It only catches the ball about 20% of the time. The rest of the time just releases back to the upper flipper without stoppping. Is this due to the worn out disc assembly? It looks a little bent up but doesn't look completely blown out. Any remedies for this?
Sorry I don't have any pictures - the game is at my parents' house because of space issues.
Edit: After some research, I'll try readjusting the lock mech and see if I can get it to work properly. The spring may also be an issue. If not, I will get a new assembly for $20 from Bay Area Amusements.
I have one if you need it. I thought I needed a new one, but it was just an adjustment. If bay area is out of it, I'll sell it for whatever they charge plus a couple of dollars shipping. I got it from them.
Quoted from pinballshark:I got my new Mirco playfield installed. It looks NICE! Many new parts, new ramps, new plastics, all metal polished, flippers rebuilt, etc. I did my own lighting mods. All the work was well worth it.
so nice!
i replaced my blinkers with led color changers so i have some extra blue blinkers if anyone needs a few.
price is $149 in US for GI OCD board. translated into euros, this price is roughly 123. Add in a 21% import VAT and the price in euros is now 148 (or USD178). shipping to Europe for an item like this is around 12 euros ($15), at least that is what we charge for most items. total price from the US would be roughly 160 euros or $195.
if you are interested (and since comet is out), I'm willing to buy the board for you and ship it out to you. You would have to pay whatever it cost me to ship, about $15 and the $6.15 ledocd charges to ship the board to me plus $149 for the board. if by some chance the package gets lost in the European mail system, I'm not going to be responsible on this one so you take some risk (we do take the risk when we ship our own mods). I'm not going to do this for everyone, but in this case, I'm happy to help if you want it.
Quoted from hisokajp:hey guys, just picked a restoration FH today. i have looked around to the usual place and found pretty much all i need but Rudy's face plate. Mine has the paint pretty worn out... Is replacement or repainting available out there?
Send it to modfather, bet he’d paint it up real nice for you, maybe with an evil twinge.
Quoted from Pahuffman:I'm only getting lower playfield and backglass GI. Any ideas?
Fuse(s) or connector. Have you checked anything?
Quoted from KJS:Bob your plastic mod looks great. When I was putting mine back together I thought the same...this area looks unfinished and sort of slap together.
I changed my posts and rubbers and added some plastics as well with a small underlit balloon area.
Hoping to be playing it today after a long restoration!
Looks great! Are your flippers sitting too high?
Quoted from billsfanmd:thx...best place for rudy parts?
Pinbits has a rebuild kit.
Quoted from Guinnesstime:New to the club and have 2 questions.
I have a nice playfield with no mylar. Looking to replace some of the insert decals. Does anyone make decals with the ink on the adhesive side? Don't want them to rub off.
Last Rudy's eyelids don't close when he sleeps. The coil fires during play and test. Any ideas on troubleshooting?
Thanks!
Take him apart,.likely the centering bushing is bad or missing.
Quoted from ShaneyMac:Hey All- looking for some help/suggestions with a couple LER LED Strip Mods (Ordered from Mezel Mods) I'm doing.
1) Trough LED Strip Light
-The mod has you attach the strip to the trough metal and replace a GI Bulb with a new one provided that is attached to the LED Strip. I have two questions on this:
a) The bulb provided from tip to base is much longer than the normal LED lights (see picture below), so when I replace the GI bulb I can't get the holder to be flush with the playfield again to screw it back in place. Forcing it in further would make it stick up through the playfield WAY farther than intended, looking weird (if I can even squeeze the wires through the hole) Any solutions to this?
b) Which GI Light would be best to utilize at this location?
[quoted image]
2) Backboard LED Strip Lighting
- The mod has you adhere the strip at the backboard location, feed the wire behind the playfield and replace a GYI Bulb with a new one provided that is attached to the LED Strip. I have two questions on this one as well:
a) It's not 100% clear, but I believe the intended location for the LED Strip is underneath the bottom plastice piece which serves as the Playfield glass guard (see picture below), and the wire is to be fed behind the back left of the playfield. Am I correct here? If so, this seems like it would create a very exposed/visible wire? Any way to make this less visible?
b) Which GI Light would be best to utilize at this location?
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3) I ordered the under cabinet/back board lighting kit that's supposed to be specific to and integrate with the Funhouse lights. I haven't received it yet, but if anyone has any experience to offer before hand, happy to hear them.
Thank you for any help.
1. You can push the bulb down a little to make it sit better against the playfield insert. Honestly, I prefer alligator clips for this mod for its simplicity, but we have been asked to supply this bulb option.
2. The led strip adheres under the plastic, as you show in your picture. You can also place it further back on the wood if you like. The wires should not be seen, or barely visible, when the playfield is in place. Wire would go over the top of the backboard. Any GI light is fine to us, I use one in the back of the playfield that was nearby.
3. This one is not our mod so can’t help with it.
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