(Topic ID: 64458)

Funhouse!? Club... (Fans welcome)

By mof

10 years ago


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#45 9 years ago

Nice. That is what I call a very good day. Love FH. What is the going price for a nice FH? I've seen them go for $5k and up. You don't see many go for sale so not sure what's realistic.

5 years later
#2024 3 years ago

Finally in the club after years of wanting one. Just love this game! Couple of questions for you guys:

1) I have a credit dot saying to check right flipper switch. Game flips fine and neither lower flipper activates switch in switch test. Does that mean they are not working?

2) Rudy has trouble looking left. He looks right okay and does everything else fine. Is there a guide to taking the head apart?

3) Anyone have a spare original translite in good shape? Mine has a bad scratch

#2027 3 years ago
Quoted from SKWilson:

Get the mirrored backglass from CPR. It is gorgeous!

Didn't know there was such a thing. I thought they only had mirrored backglass for a few titles but there is a ton. Kinda pricey but bet that would look pretty sweet. Any fitment issues? Heard some people had trouble getting it installed and/or issues with edges. Any pics?

Quoted from Shredso:

1. I had this happen once and it was a connector in the backbox that was a little loose. These are not CPU controlled so they will work even though the CPU can't see it. I'm not sure if the CPU sees the cabinet switch or EOS, I'm sure someone will chime in, but cleaning all of them couldn't hurt.
2. The entire assembly comes out fairly easily. It's not so bad once you get it on the bench.
3. I do have a nice original translite. I bought a replacement hoping the new ones would stand up better to the LED's without being washed out. No such luck. What's an original translite go for? I'll have to dig it out, but I remember it being in great shape.

I checked connectors in the backbox. All seem to be seated securely. Cleaned the contacts as well but no change. Game still says check sw11 right flipper. Not too worried about it but sure hate hearing that credit dot sound on bootup.

I will remove Rudy at some point when I shop the pin out. Any tips for reducing noise or fixing eyes?

I am tempted to get the cpr backglass but not sure I want to spend that much. I would do $100 including shipping if nice. If the leds are too bright, I recommend using 1smd frosted and remove some of the bulbs. I had to do that to my FT.

#2032 3 years ago

I just noticed that if I press the right flipper button in switch test, it says left flipper switch 12 on the display. If I press the left flipper button, no switches are registered. Before I was just lifting the flippers by hand and that does not register any switches on any flippers. Both buttons flip the correct flippers. Game still has credit dot for right flipper switch 11 which makes sense now since it is not registering. Any ideas of what is going on? I cannot find any other switch issues and game plays fine.

#2037 3 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

1) I have a credit dot saying to check right flipper switch. Game flips fine and neither lower flipper activates switch in switch test. Does that mean they are not working?

I figured out the problem. Figured I would document in case someone else has the same issue and searched this thread. I forgot to mention I had a Rottendog driver board. Forgot myself until I opened backbox. Pinwiki documented that on early versions of the board it had the flippers reversed. That was my issue as well as a burnt resistor that explained why game never registered one of the flippers. A friend did the suggested fix and replaced the burnt resistor. Now the game sees the flippers correctly and no more credit dot.

https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Special_Note_regarding_RottenDog_Power.2FDriver_boards_manufactured_prior_to_February.2C_2012

2 weeks later
#2066 3 years ago

Anyone have pics of FH with warm white or sunlight leds? I usually like sunlight but debating keeping the full retro look of warm white.

#2068 3 years ago
Quoted from bbriese:

Mine is fitted with Comet warm-white retroSMD with the frosted covers. Standard 2SMD's and even 1SMD's are too bright for direct line of sight like under sling plastics and lane guides.[quoted image]

Never tried the retro SMD bulbs. Might have to give those a try. I typically do 1smd for inserts and 2smd for GI but definitely don't want FH to be that bright. Your game looks awesome btw.

#2073 3 years ago
Quoted from Shredso:

1000% worth it. I didn't have it in mine for a long time, despite everyone telling me I needed it. There are a ton of lighting effects I forgot about. Huge difference. I felt stupid for not buying it earlier.

Agreed. I debated getting the boards for a while. Once I saw them in action there was no turning back. Most of the lighting effects are subtle but it all adds up to a much better visual experience. They eliminate any ghosting and make all lamps work exactly as designed. Definitely getting the boards for FH.

1 week later
#2076 3 years ago

Anyone use the starship main ramp? I had to remove the metal post thing that is on the left side to get it to remotely fit. Getting all the holes to line up is a challenge. I need to pull pretty hard on the right side but think it will work. Just afraid it will be a lot of stress on ramp. The top plastic cover holes are way off so keeping old one even though a bit yellowed. Should these just drop in?

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#2079 3 years ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

This doesn't sound right to me . I bought one of these ( years ago ) and didn't have these issues. Did you contact Larry?

I'm in the middle of a full shop with most of the pf parts removed. Maybe it will fit better once I start assembling the pf. If not I will contact Larry.

#2089 3 years ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Welcome to the new ramp frustration club. I replaced all ramps and both sucked ass fit wise. Holes were off. steps ramp is 1/4 shorter than the original. They're super thick so stress shouldn't be an issue.

I've dealt with thicker new ramps that don't fit quite right before but this one is by far the worst. Funny the step ramp is 1/4" shorter because the main ramp is 1/4" too narrow. I also just noticed a hole for one of the wireforms was not drilled. Fantastic. Larry was not much help. Asked for pics then silent. Mentioned I was the only one with issues so guess I am just the cranky customer. This ramp was not cheap so yeah, I am a little picky. Just going to make it work. Good news is I got the led ocd boards installed. Tuned the inserts to be way less bright so really happy with the results. Love these boards!

1 week later
#2107 3 years ago
Quoted from Lodi:

I am starting my first pinball machine resto with Funhouse. I have a new playfield/ramps/plastics and will clean, polish or replace all parts, so it should be a nice piece when done. I'd love some feedback on a few playfield items.
Incondescent vs LED lights? I'm not a purist and in general I love LEDs, but I don't want it to look unpleasant (too bright I guess). I also don't want dingy yellow if going incandescents. If you are using something you love please let me know (brand, intensity, color, kit vs individual bulbs would be very helpful).
PopBumpers - Opaque Bodies or clear with rollover LEDs?
Star Posts - Multi-color, clear or specific colors in certain spots.
Rings/Bands - Thoughts on Titan Competition Silicone? White, black, clear, multi-color?
Will add Cliffy's protectors and mylar. If you have any thoughts or recommendations let me know. This will be a process.

I just finished doing full shop on mine. I love LEDs but wanted to keep the stock look. I used Comet 1smd bulbs throughout with both ocd boards. I normally use 2smd for gi but didn't want FH to be too bright. Frosted lens for backbox, gi, and visible bulbs. Clear leans for inserts with color matching (except warm white for yellow/orange). Most inserts were a little too bright so probably should of used frosted. No problem - turned them down using the led ocd software. The software allows you to tweak each individual insert bulb so you can get everything the perfect brightness. The ocd boards also eliminate ghosting and give you all the dimming effects. If you go led, I highly recommend these boards. It's a bit intimidating to install them first time but really not that bad. I am really happy with how mine turned out. It still looks stock but a little more bright and crisp. I can give you more info if you like.

I usually use Titan rubbers on my games but left stock white rubber on FH since they were almost new. Colors are fun but go with white if you are unsure.

I used clear pop bumper parts on my FT and love them. I had to remove them to do repairs so it was a good time to try them out. I would love to add them to other games but not tearing pop bumpers apart just for that. Too much of a pain.

#2112 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

2smd frosted Sunlight = #44 bulbs
2smd frosted Warm white = #47 bulbs
The game came with bright new #44 bulbs
It was bright, shiney and amazing.
As the games age and bulbs are replaced with #47's, they look dim and old. This is not how they are supposed to be or how they were imagined IMHO.
The game should be crisp and bright.
So, 2smd sunlight everywhere.

2smd is very bright. The frosted lens help dilute the brightness but it's still way more bright than incandescent. For reference Stern uses 2smd in their games. If you ever see a new Stern next to an older incandescent game there is a huge difference. Even 1smd bulbs are brighter than incandescents. Comet sells retro smd bulb that are less bright and closer to incandescent. One thing you can always do is buy a mix of bulbs to try. Put them in easy to reach areas like slings/inlanes and compare. Kinda like buying sample paint and spreading it on the wall.

#2116 3 years ago
Quoted from JoeJet:

My funhouse has been sitting in pieces for years and looking to finish a restoration soon..i have forgotten, can you put incandescent bulbs AND LEDs (for example in opposite slings and two inserts next to each other) to compare the look and the dimming effects?

You can have leds with incandescent bulbs but you will not be able to compare dimming. LEDs do not dim in stock game and will flicker. You can stop the flickering by turning off dimming effects but you of course lose those effects. The ocd boards fix all that but require the game to be 100% leds.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Yes they are.
But with ledocd we are running them at 85% brightness and at a much higher frequency.
Its a really good system.
So, in the end its a perfect color match and brightness.
Much better than the old game destroying bulbs.

I turned down my inserts way lower than that. For larger inserts, I did turn them up. I've used ocd boards before but never tried to customize the settings. Really cool you can do that. Cost of getting these boards and all the leds is a bit expensive when you add it up. However, I feel it's the best thing you can do to these older games. I could feel the entire room heat up when I had just the one game on with incandescent bulbs and glass off.

#2123 3 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

For me on the inserts:
Yellow = Warm White, the rest I color match
But that's the great thing about pinball, set it up how you like it and it's all good.

Same here except warm white for yellow and orange. Cool white for clear and blue inserts. That's what I like but is more of a hassle getting different color bulbs. I see no need to just buy bulk and end up with a lot of extra bulbs. You are spending more money, not less. Plan out what you need and only buy that.

No worries on things being to bright with the ocd boards. You can just turn down the brightness.

I usually go with led flashers but did not for FH. The led flashers (even the 5smd ones) are really bright and can be blinding. You can save money by just keeping the incandescent flashers. I also recommend keeping the condoms. Leds look ugly when not lit.

#2130 3 years ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

This. Unless it's going to be on all day, every day, incandescents aren't going to cause any cumulative damage.
And they're way cheaper! Just replacing aged bulbs with fresh ones will brighten and whiten things back up immensely. No need to spend all that money on LEDs and OCD nonsense.

Not going to argue with that. It is around $400 to 500 to get boards and leds. Figuring out what you need, getting it installed, and fiddling can be a pain. I have fun doing it though and love results. Games are so much more enjoyable to play with proper leds and ocd boards. Colors are more vibrant and bright. It might make little difference but nice to know game is less stressed and not bathing in heat for however long I have it on. Only downside is cost but worth it to me.

#2137 3 years ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

"Proper" = incandescent.
"so much more enjoyable to play" ??????????????
If anything, I would enjoy it so much less knowing I blew $500 and hours of mucking around, accomplishing practically nothing.
Yeah, stick an LED in a pop if a normal bulb blows too often. Funny, mine never do.

I meant not loading game up with purple leds and color bombing. And yes I do enjoy a game better lit with leds than one that is dingy and dark. There is a reason why modern games use leds instead of sticking with incandescent. Same reason they use lcd displays and I put colordmds in my game. Not that they are needed but just look better. I'm no purist so enjoy playing games with these kind of improvements.

#2140 3 years ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

Fresh 44s are plenty bright. People forget that they get dirty, yellow and dim with long use. The main big brightness "difference" after LEDing is mostly due to that. Not hundreds of dollars' worth of improvement in my book.

Some bulbs do get pretty dirty but don't agree at all on brightness. 2smd bulbs are way brighter than any incandescent. Too bright for anything other than non visible gi bulbs imo. 1smd not as much but still brighter. That's just fact. Leds are more efficient. Replacing the entire game with leds makes a drastic difference in the look and brightness. Not even close.

#2144 3 years ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

I didn't say they weren't brighter. I said the additional brightness of putting in all LEDs rather than
just new 44s compared to the old yellow dirty ones is not worth all that money.
Made up brightness scale, for demonstration:
Old bulbs: 2
New 44s: 7 (cost: $20)
LEDs/OCD: 9 (cost: hundreds!)
Your mileage may vary. Whatever numbers you assign, the $20 improvement accomplishes most of what the expensive one does. No amount of "ooh, that's bright!" can justify the additional expense. Enjoy the game as it was intended and give the difference to charity.

I get that you are a purist but saying new incandescent bulbs are basically the same thing as full leds is ridiculous. That's all I'm saying.

1 week later
#2176 3 years ago

I have both ocd boards and blinker leds in backbox. No issues. Only bulbs to avoid with ocd boards is no ghosting as far as I know.

Mirrored backglass does look great. Love to see one in person.

#2183 3 years ago
Quoted from evanshane237:

Hi guys! I restored this machine back in 2014 and I’m getting ready to strip the playfield and re-clean it but was wondering if anyone ever made the catch for the hidden hallway. Mine is just a tad too rounded so the ball sometimes forces it’s way through. Also if anyone wants a restoration thread to watch here’s mine. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-full-restoration-by-a-13-year-old

You mean this?
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-A-14151

Available elsewhere but costs vary.

#2189 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Soooo happy to be back![quoted image]
[quoted image]

I have the same line up of FT, FH, and TZ in that same order. Early 90's games are the best! Not sure about the painted Rudy but looks like a nice FH. Congrats!

#2206 3 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

IMHO, most important thing will be to have the person your buying it from run through the Rudy tests (eye movement, eyelids, jaw, etc) to make sure all that works normally.
Look at the boards, if the batteries are still on the MPU, look closely to check for acid leakage/damage.
Play some games on it, make sure the trapdoor opens/closes, etc.
Good luck!

Agreed. You just want to make sure there are no large problems like missing parts, bad boards, or weird issues. I also agree with CLEllison about repair costs. I pretty much expect to spend $300+ on any used pin I buy replacing parts, rebuilding flippers, leds, etc. I always end up spending more but fun getting a pin all fixed up and playing perfect.

#2222 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Hey, does anyone know exactly which resistor is attached to the cabinet speaker across the incoming speaker lines?
I have one on mine but I can't read what's printed on it. I have a screech thru the speakers when I turn the game off and I am trying anything to get rid of it. I'm thinking this resistor may be bad and my electric testing skills are limited to checking continuity

Report back if that fixes it. Mine does the same. Not a big deal but annoying. What's the purpose of the coil wired up to speakers? A friend suggested bypassing it but not sure if that's a good idea.

2 months later
#2319 3 years ago
Quoted from Zablon:

Is that common? Mine has none of that. It only has a bit of paint missing in the normal out kick spot, and a bit of crazing, otherwise it's in great shape...and it was a routed machine.

I think it's a bit extreme to say every single unrestored FH is blown out. Average prices are around $4200-$5000 and you can find some good players in the middle of that range. I wish I got serious about buying one long ago. Thought they were expensive back then at around $3500. Good luck finding any FH for that price or less these days.

1 week later
#2337 3 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Your eyes on Rudy aren't working properly. They should return to center after looking left or right. It's an easy fix. The centering bar that provides the tension to return the eyes to center have 2 brass eyelets that are what actually provide the tension on the centering bar. They are worn and enlongated. Check a local hobby store that does RC planes or a good small hardware store. They should have the right size needed.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=A-19258

Is this the part you are talking about? This fixed problems I had with eyes not looking one direction very well. If I remember right, the raised plastic tab things in the middle of the part were worn on my original and one of the reasons my eyes were not working 100%. I recommend inspecting this part and replacing if any of it looks worn.

#2350 3 years ago
Quoted from fossmin:

No that doesn't seem to be my issue. The harder balls just push through the disk like a turn-style at an amusement park. Shouldn't there be some resistance?
Thanks

Mine did that occasionally. I didn't look to deep into it since I could tell the disc was beat up so just replaced it. Might as well since I already had the game torn down. Without comparing to a new part, it's hard to tell just how worn the disc is. You might get away with adjusting it but replacing better option imo. After replacing it, never had the problem again.

#2371 3 years ago
Quoted from fossmin:

Thanks, but I have had the game for 18 years and the disc worked flawless before the rebuild and is in very good shape. I am pretty sure the problem lies elsewhere.

Surprising your disc is in good shape after 18 years of service. Ball pretty much slams into it every single game many times. New assembly is only $20 so worth a shot imo. Only thing you can do besides replacing is adjust it like the others are saying. You need to adjust it clockwise as far as you can that stops the incoming balls and still ejects a ball on demand. If there is some kind of slack, you should be able to move it by hand and see what is causing it under pf.

Super exclusive ad from the Pinside Marketplace!
1 month later
#2402 3 years ago
Quoted from Shredso:

Remove the post sleeve. There have been several debates here if it came from the factory bare and the general consensus is typically yes.

I did that and still had same issue. Remove the blue pad from the ramp. That or get a much thinner alternative.

4 weeks later
#2477 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Im finally getting close to finishing my Funhouse resto:
I have my cabinet finished and am testing it.
The playfield isnt in yet, Im testing only the cabinet. I test everything as I go.
Everything works and all switches test out and all votages are perfect. Chris hibler rebuilt all of the boards and they look like brand new.
Al loose or marginal IDC connectors have been replaced with trifucon.
Every wire is ohmed out from pin to end connector, all connections are positive.
There doesnt seem to be a test or fuse for the upper left flipper or switch? The schematic shows both flippers in parallel?
Also the start button lamp doesnt flash yet, but the new switch tests out perfectly. But I only have the 2 cabinet harnesses plugged into the backbox boards.
Should the start button flash at this point? I see a diode in the circuit on the door interconnect board. I could jumper it....??
Is the start button lamp tied to J135 (not connected yet)? Mine is a later version Funhouse with Williams siderails and a 2 wire connector for the start button lamp at J136.
As always, any input helps a lot!

Stupid question but is the game set on free play? If mpu reset and no credits, start button is not going to be lit.

2 months later
#2585 2 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

I personally like the original look better. I don't like seeing all the unlit segments. That being said, I have a pinled in mine too. I don't dislike it enough to hear up the backbox. I don't notice it so much anymore, but when I do, I still miss the clean look of the original.

Same. Mine game came with led displays and I quickly got used to them. Like the benefits of leds but like keeping FH as stock looking as possible. Love it just how it is.

2 weeks later
#2652 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

With the color choices of LED's and the level of control that LEDOCD and GIOCD gives you, there is no reason at all to go with incandescents.
One can make an exact representation, only a bit better.
Lower power vonsumption, higher durability and less stress on aging electronics etc.
But this has been gone over 100's of times.
Its your game, have it your way !

Yup. With the choice of bulbs and ocd boards, you can get the game to look exactly like you want it to without any side effects. True, incandescent bulbs are probably fine in the home environment where games are not left on for long periods of time. Still, I can notice one game with incandescent bulbs heat up a room pretty quick. Try touching one of those little bulbs after they have been on for 5 minutes or just open the backbox. That heat and stress is just not good period imo.

#2661 2 years ago
Quoted from brado426:

The reason I go with the incandescent for Funhouse is because of the dimming function not working with LEDs. Are there good warm LEDs that support dimming without buying an additional $200 add-on board?

No. That's why you need the boards. Boards are not $200. More like $135. Close to $300 when you get both boards and brackets with shipping. I wasn't sure about these boards either until I saw them in action.

#2678 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

So I’m doing a light restoration on my recently acquired funhouse. Any thoughts on this playfield discoloration above the rollovers? It’s in heavy traffic areas not covered by Mylar. I scrubbed it pretty good with novus and it won’t come up. I’m worried I’m going to take up more paint around that planking. Thoughts?
On a related note, anyone have a generally decent funhouse playfield or a non Mirco repro they’d like to sell? Asking for a friend..
[quoted image][quoted image]

Be careful scrubbing. There is no clearcoat, just paint. Mine has similar issues and very hard to find nice original FH. Most have been heavily routed and faded. Planking and bubbling mylar are common. Just do light cleaning and enjoy playing it. Fully restored games with shiny playfields lose a bit of that original charm imo.

#2728 2 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

IMHO, You can get a nicely restored funhouse for far less than 14k, that one is certainly a nice build though.

Market is just crazy right now. There seems to be a group of high end collectors that are willing to spend a lot of money to get the games they want. Not sure if that group is growing or nice games are getting harder to find. Maybe both. If you are a buyer, I would be careful not to get sucked into mindset that all games go for this much money. If you are a seller of a nice game, you might as well throw a high price on it to see what happens.

#2750 2 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

I still just cant find a way to accept this nonsense... A NIB Funhouse cost $2800 in 1990. And while I've heard all the "justification theories" and comparisons to classic cars, yadda yadda. This is one of the most NON rare games Williams ever built!! There are shit-tons of them out there, a thrashed POS will never be worth more than this game cost as NIB!!
I will never own one at these stupid prices, so I guess it'll be my Eleanor until the next recession, when all these chumps will be forced to sell at 1/3 of what they paid... in other words, what they're actually worth!

Uh, ok. Let me know when you are selling any of your pins for what they sold for 30 years ago. I will be right over.

#2757 2 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

As expected, most of you missed my point... This market has moved to what I sometimes call "title value", which means that everyone thinks that because the game says Funhouse on the backglass, its worth a fortune! so it really doesn't matter if your game is well maintained and in a condition average for its age, or a heap of shit with more wood than graphics showing on the pf and a warped, planked cabinet that looks like it fell off a truck on its way to the landfill... It's still worth SIX GRAND!!??? Bullshit!
@ pinballinreno, your game is worth $6K all day long (altho i'm sure you think its worth $12K)... The 2 in the market right now, not even close!!
So in the end, a wave of locked-down idiots with more dollars than sense, who dont know dick about pinball are getting chumped into paying outrageous money for shit-box games and destroying this hobby for people like me who've been in it for 35 years, and many of you too!!
I intend to remain part of the solution and not part of the problem, by NOT buying overpriced games, period! As far as selling, my collection is permanent, I dont sell or flip games, I have picked up a couple games in my day that were good deal, that I traded for games on my wishlist, but that's it.

I think you are missing the point. The so called "title value" is just that - popular titles have a lot of value in any condition. Thus, even a beat to death FH still has plenty of value. You may think it's stupid and everyone else is idiots but that's the market. You don't get to decide prices - buyers and sellers do. I struggled for a long time to find a FH. When I finally had a chance to get a decent one at what I thought was fair market value, I jumped on it. That fair market value was much higher than what it was just a few years earlier. Prices will continue to rise whether you like it or not. Go look in the pinside market place. There are 9 want ads for FH and only two for sale with one of those quickly sold. That's the market.

#2769 2 years ago
Quoted from Zablon:

Same, Funhouse was my grail game when I got into the hobby. I got VERY lucky on the pinball roulette wheel with mine. I have no idea what mine is worth, but ultimately, I don't care. (I did have someone offer me 17k for it about 15 years ago though - although I really doubt it is worth that much).
Are there better games? Yes. It's silly to say otherwise, but this game just resonates with me.

Same here. I always loved FH and lots of nostalgia. Somehow I avoided buying one early in the hobby as I thought games with more modes, more toys, deeper code, and all that would be better bang for the buck. Nope. Nothing beats getting the grail games you really enjoy even if they have simple gameplay. Not sure how you turned down $17k, though. That's just crazy money.

2 months later
#2972 2 years ago

Never hurts to check all switches if having issues. Make sure and use ball when testing. A switch that needs adjusting may trigger when pressed by hand but when ball rolls over.

3 months later
#3310 2 years ago
Quoted from killerrobots:

Yeah that is what I did in the end and they came out pretty good.[quoted image]

Those look pretty good. How do they look lit up?

3 weeks later
#3379 2 years ago
Quoted from sb33334:

I agree, I am kind of tempted to get this but not sure if I would ultimately like it.

Same here. I love FH as is even though simple game. Lots of nostalgia and like the sys11 vibe. Although, fh 2.0 would be like having another game without taking up extra space. You could convert it to 2 0 for a few months and then back to 1.0. Just not sure if 2.0 would be that much fun. Love to see more videos.

1 month later
#3641 2 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Need some help with these last few plastics from a new set. None of these were on my game when I tore it down, and I cant find any of them in other resto threads.
Where do these go?
[quoted image]

Popcorn plastic looks like this one just below upper flipper.

Btw - anyone have a spare plastic that goes below that popcorn plastic? Looks like mine lost a screw and then broke at the corner. I don't see anywhere to buy one without buying whole set.

20220111_081454 (resized).jpg20220111_081454 (resized).jpg
#3644 2 years ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Which corner of that one do you feel is broken? It looks complete to me (bottom right of pic of plastic pieces on my table is that one you're talking about, right?)[quoted image]

It broke on the corner close to the "S" target. I was playing when the broken plastic piece came flying down the pf. Took me a while to figure out where it went because the break looks natural.

How is the quality on the reproduction FH plastics? Last plastic set I bought was for FT and not too happy with colors and thin paint.

#3658 2 years ago

Appreciate the offer but I am looking for the plastic that's right below that one. The one that sits on top of S target.

#3665 2 years ago

I have same lockdown on mine. So these lockdown bars are not stock? Seems strange that so many are swapped on just this game.

20220118_082224 (resized).jpg20220118_082224 (resized).jpg
4 weeks later
#3779 2 years ago

I'm not big on attract sounds but would be cool if Rudy opened his eyes, looked around, and then closed the eyes every now and then.

#3785 2 years ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

That would really be super cool, but I can understand why Williams didn't include any movement from Rudy as part of an attract mode in FH...it would have led to substantial wear if Rudy were moving his eyes, eyelids, or the mouth all day long while the game was being operated.
Still, a musical flourish every few minutes would have been great and would not have needed to involve mechanical movement of Rudy.

Not all day - just once in a while at random. Nothing is going to wear out with a few movements now and then. Bigger issue would be power. Probably not the best idea to power up all the coils at random in attract mode. I just love random stuff and wish games had more of it.

1 month later
#3913 1 year ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

Thank you very much guys. This is awesome. Would you please explain what it means to stack frenzy and super frenzy. I’ve heard the same term “ stack multi balls”. Apparently it’s very important in Bram Stoker’s Dracula. But I’m not exactly sure how to do it.

Stacking is starting a mode with another mode is currently running. In general, it's always better to have some mode running before starting a mb. Some games like BSD allow you to start a different mb while in mb.

1 month later
#4037 1 year ago
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:

Started populating my new Funhouse PF.
Wondering if there are any tricks, upgrades that anyone recommends. I'm adding Cliffys to the PF and using the Post protectors that Pinball Monk designed.
Might add some lights to the out holes. Everything is getting freshened new coils and fixtures.. Trying to pull out all the stops.
Any Gotta do's?

If you are pulling out all the stops, I recommend leds with both ocd boards. I used warm white bulbs and customized the brightness to exactly how I wanted it. That all gets expensive but fantastic results.

4 months later
#4225 1 year ago
Quoted from fossmin:

The replacement ramps I got for my FH are very thick. Can't remember where I got them. Probably Pinball Life or Starship. Are people grinding these down where they attach to the playfield? I can't get it to sit flush.
Thanks

How is it not flush? I had issues with replacement main ramp from starship. It was a bit too narrow. I had to work on it to get it to fit and even then I had to leave out a screw. I contacted starship and Larry mentioned the ramp fit perfectly fine on a FH he had.

#4251 1 year ago
Quoted from fossmin:

Neebie to LEDs. I have not done LEDs in any of my games before. I am restoring a second FH and want to give it a try. I don't want to get into picking individual bulbs. Can someone recommend a kit a vender sells and what type of boards I might also need?
Thanks

Quoted from fossmin:

Does this game require an OCD board with LEDs?

Comet has a kit but no much details on what bulbs used. It would be cheaper to just buy a bunch of warm white frosted lens bulbs in both wedge and bayonet base. Just get a rough count and get extras. 1smd are just a little brighter than incandescent bulbs and 2smd are what modern Stern games use. GI and backbox mostly bayonet and inserts typically wedge. If you want to save a little money, don't buy led flashers.

Without ocd boards, you will need to turn dimming off in the game. Leds will flicker otherwise. Ghosting may also occur but depends on the game. Ghosting is when led bulbs remain lit when supposed to be completely off. You can buy non ghosting bulbs to fix this but these bulbs do not work with ocd boards. Ocd boards fix all issues and basically makes led bulbs behave exactly like incandescent bulbs. It also allows you to customize brightness of every bulb but works great straight out of box. These boards are one of those things that you don't think you need them until you see them in action. I have them in all my games.

3 weeks later
#4331 1 year ago
Quoted from brado426:

I've been super intrigued about this Funhouse Mod from Pedretti gaming. I almost feel obligated to buy it since I own a Funhouse. But here are my concerns:
- I suspect that I'd try the new version, but end up switching back to and sticking with the classic version
- Classic version of the mod doesn't look as good with the LCD screens
- Sound board is replaced with a replica. Would audio be the same and as satisfying? YOU BIG.... SAUSAGE!
- $2,000
I guess my main concern is I'd buy it, install it, and then only play the classic version... and then the classic version would seem more like a replica rather than the real original thing.
I'm wondering from those of you who bought it, how often do you play the new vs. classic version? Do you find the new version as fun and re-playable as the classic version? I played the new version at Texas Pinball Festival and I wasn't sure.... I didn't like the new Rudy voice as much and it didn't have the sinister quality that I enjoy with Funhouse... but I only had a few minutes with it.

I played the new version at the Houston show last weekend. Not impressed. I love the original even though it's a simple game. The kit just feels like a poor replica and I agree that it would be a downgrade to play the original game with the kit.

2 weeks later
#4367 1 year ago

Thought mine was an actual backglass but double checked. It's just glass with translite.

1 week later
#4378 1 year ago
Quoted from jazc4:

Ok. Sorry for all of the confusion and legwork I caused you guys. I got home and looked again. IT IS A TRANSLITE. It was so stuck on the glass that I was convinced it was silkscreened. I feel like an idiot. Once I had it in my head that it was a backglass I didn’t consider anything else. I humbly apologize and appreciate all of your help.

Easy mistake. I thought the exact same thing since it was stuck on tight. I even touched up a bad scratch a while back and still thought it was glass lol.

3 months later
#4615 11 months ago
Quoted from fossmin:

Is there a way to adjust the strength of coil for Rudy's Hideout behind his head? The ball shoots out of there so fast, and if you don't get the upper flipper on it, it goes straight down the middle.

One thing you can do is put a rubber ring or two on the coil plunger. I did that on my Whitewater mine kickout to slow things down.

3 weeks later
#4653 10 months ago
Quoted from aamauzy:

Picked up a Funhouse yesterday - I'm sure many of you saw it on Facebook, being sold out of STL with heavy cabinet and playfield wear. Shockingly, the inserts are still flat and the game actually plays great. Replaced the AC input for GI to restore GI operation, and ordered a set of Cliffys to fix the decimated middle ramp opening. Otherwise, everything else moving forward will be cosmetic. They were asking $4800, then $4500 - I wound up getting it for $3850. It's ugly, but a solid working "player's" game.
I don't plan on doing much cosmetically for the time being. The playfield is toast - suuuuuuper dried out. Not planking, but paint is flaking off quickly. I'm thinking of putting one of those die-cut mylar sheets from Marco over the existing damage to, more than anything, keep the paint dust at bay for ease of cleaning. That said, I'll keep my eyes peeled for a good looking used playfield just in case I go nuts and want to swap.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Question for the group - does anyone have a "decent" to "good" condition translite they would want to sell and ship? Mine was absolutely filthy and scuffed in a few places, but when I went to clean it the white backing on the translite just started dissolving. Haven't seen that before, guess this era of Williams translites were made differently than things I've worked on in the past.
[quoted image]

Nice pickup. My Fish Tales translite looked just like that and same thing happened when I tried to clean it. Think there is a very particular way you are supposed to clean these so you have to be careful. Ended up just buying a new one.

4 weeks later
#4672 9 months ago
Quoted from JoeJet:

2) Can I use incandescent flashers with LEDOCD and GIOCD boards? I really hate these LED flashers. They are so bright and focused they look terrible on funhouse so far and they are so finicky with the wire connections I keep seeing a new one that needs readjusting. Thanks.

Absolutely. I have both ocd boards and incandescent flashers. No issues. I totally agree about led flashers. I used to use led flashers but stopped. They are all too bright and just ends up being waste of money. I used 1smd warm white bulbs and used the ocd software to balance the brightness of inserts. Game is less dim than my other led games but that was my goal.

For finicky leds, bend the wire contacts out at like a 45 degree angle. That helps them make better contact.

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