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Has anyone ever made a guide for working on Rudy? My eyelids aren't closing. The coil is firing, but the plunger is not lifting. It moves freely by hand, so it isn't binder on anything.
Thanks
Having a problem with my Hidden Hallway. I just rebuilt my game and I updated the roms, so I am not sure if the game is playing different because of that. When a moderate or hard shot goes into the hallway without the "Lock" being lit, the crescent moon shaped ball catch is not capturing the ball and ejecting them. Balls push straight through. Softer shots that don't have enough power settle on the switch and then are ejected. Before my rebuild all shots were captured whether hard or soft and the mech would eject them. This seems right to me. Anyone know why my ball capture assembly is not holding the harder shots? Hope my description makes sense.
Thanks
Quoted from yzfguy:If you look at your disk, the cutout for the ball is probably a little elongated from being bashed. On my last funhouse, I was able to loosen the set screw under the playfield and adjust the disk slightly counter clockwise so that it kept the ball. Never had a problem after that.
No that doesn't seem to be my issue. The harder balls just push through the disk like a turn-style at an amusement park. Shouldn't there be some resistance?
Thanks
Quoted from yzfguy:Perhaps the set screw needs to be tightened so the disc doesn't spin on the shaft once it stops.
Thanks yzf, but the nut is tight on the flipper crank assembly that the crescent moon disc attaches to. It is not slipping.
Quoted from jawjaw:Mine did that occasionally. I didn't look to deep into it since I could tell the disc was beat up so just replaced it. Might as well since I already had the game torn down. Without comparing to a new part, it's hard to tell just how worn the disc is. You might get away with adjusting it but replacing better option imo. After replacing it, never had the problem again.
Thanks, but I have had the game for 18 years and the disc worked flawless before the rebuild and is in very good shape. I am pretty sure the problem lies elsewhere.
Quoted from jawjaw:Surprising your disc is in good shape after 18 years of service. Ball pretty much slams into it every single game many times. New assembly is only $20 so worth a shot imo. Only thing you can do besides replacing is adjust it like the others are saying. You need to adjust it clockwise as far as you can that stops the incoming balls and still ejects a ball on demand. If there is some kind of slack, you should be able to move it by hand and see what is causing it under pf.
Thanks. I am trying to make a video, but need an assistant. I don't think I can shoot the ball and the video at the same time. I am not that talented.
Here is the video of how the harder shots push straight through the disk. The disk is low enough and the spring is new. Anyone have any thoughts how to correct this?
Thanks
Finally got this fixed. I think I had the assembly out of the game 10-12 times. Just wouldn't work no matter how much I tried. I set it as far clockwise as it could go while still being able to release the ball and I would still have hard shots push straight through the disk. I read an older thread with someone that added a stronger spring. I didn't have a strong spring to try, so I ended up just adding a second plunger spring. So with the disk set in a sweet spot and double springs after a couple games it seems to be working very well. Thanks for everyone's help.
Quoted from yzfguy:Any of you guys have the led mod behind the funhouse logo in the backglass? I was hesitant at the price and now it's been sold out for a while. Just wondering if I missed anything great.
I did and love it. Worth the money in my opinion. I would say it is one of the better mods in all my pins. It is quite the job adjusting each led behind the bulbs in the backglass.
Quoted from yaggy:nursing another rudy, rescued from abuse and neglect...
"thanks, bucko"[quoted image]
Yaggy, that's a great picture
Quoted from HC2016:Yes saw that mod on YouTube , it’s def awesome
But as there’re saying it’s sold out
Besides that , any other ideas for LEDs/colors ?
Contact the seller. He was talking about doing another run of these. Not sure where that stands. I was lucky enough to find one from someone that had bought one and never installed it. Install is definitely time consuming adjusting every single led. It is pretty awesome once done!
Quoted from killerrobots:Yeah now I get to start on the playfield...
Also here is a question I struggle with. When you are restoring things the hardest part for me is when to stop. I see all these high end restores but a lot of it will never been seen. I have these old stickers that I had to remove to paint everything. Part of me thinks I should reprint them and stick them back on but it that just wasting time? I mean, who will ever know?[quoted image]
You will
Bottom left flipper stopped working. Top one still works. Wires are all connected. What else to check?
Thanks
Quoted from AlexRogan84:Raise the playfield (power off) and physically move the linkage with your finger. Does it move freely? If the plunger moving in and out of the coil rotates that lower flipper like it should, then you start checking elsewhere. Determine this step first.
Moves freely.
Quoted from Completist:Definitely not on my game either. I originally thought with the small ones anyway that they were pieces cutout from within larger pieces that were to be removed. But its too coincidental that these exact plastics are in my set too, and there are no larger plastics that have those colors/holes with those shapes. You would think they go on top of something to prevent a ball getting trapped like some of the other ones that are stock.
As for the large yellow one, I couldn’t find anywhere that the hole patterns could line up to, or what benefit it would have. Shooter lane cover - but how to secure it, and why? [quoted image]
The part number is definitely FH, but it is not on my game. Many times they have plastics in these sets that didn't ultimately make it on the game. It must be one of those.
Quoted from AlexRogan84:Only the upper flipper uses that FL-11753 (yellow label) coil. The two lower ones are the slightly stronger FL-11630 (red label) coils.
Thanks was trying to decipher the manual. I get it now.
Has anyone installed the new translucent or clear eyeballs that Planetary recently made? If so, which ones and do you like them?
Thanks
Looking for a source for pop bumper cap decals. Planetary has them but $5 a decal just seems a bit extreme.
Thanks
Quoted from monkfe:sometimes you have hit it with a punch or even a soft hammer (small)...just keep working the two back and forth till its out...
Yep, you need to hammer it out.
Does anyone sell the clear plastic that goes on top of the trap door? I thought it came with the CPR set, but evidently not.
Thanks
Quoted from TheOnlyest:According to the photo, the plastic set that Marco sells, comes with both...
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1-50003
[quoted image]
Unfortunately I already bought the CPR set. Seems odd they wouldn't include the trap door plastic. They made everything else.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Put 2 of those springs, they are the weaker ones.
You might be ok with the 2 springs.
If the ball still goes through:
If you have to, change the pawl for the later williams on with the return clip on it and hook a flipper return spring to the switch bracket hole, as well as leaving the conical spring on.
I put two springs and mine and it did the trick.
Quoted from mkdud:Please help if you can. I recently tilted my FH playfield up, and this rather large sized nut rolled into the magic mirror pit. I have no idea where it might have come from.
It seems too large to be holding something on the top of the PF. I know it came from the top of the playfield because I heard a distinct metal "klink" when the nut went into the magic mirror pit. Does anybody have any idea what this goes to? Everything on my game seems to be working fine. Thanks much, mk
[quoted image][quoted image]
It goes here circled in red.
1a4e024cdad66b42803af4e9ccdd7afcd894c6df (resized).jpgQuoted from mkdud:I think this bolt is still attached on my PF bracket. Looks like it is similar to the one found in my subway. I'll report back after I check my brackets. Thanks fossmin!
Yeah the nut you pictured might be smaller than the one I circled.
Quoted from jawjaw:How is it not flush? I had issues with replacement main ramp from starship. It was a bit too narrow. I had to work on it to get it to fit and even then I had to leave out a screw. I contacted starship and Larry mentioned the ramp fit perfectly fine on a FH he had.
The new ramps are so thick, it was causing a hump under the flap where it attaches to the playfield. I had to dremel them down underneath to get a smooth transition.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I put in both the GIOCD and the LEDOCD boards.
Its REALLY nice. The lighting a smooth and vibrant with no ghosting at all.
Open source Afterglow boards are cheaper but can be hard to get, being from Europe and all...
Your now talking about stuff I have no clue about.
Thanks
Quoted from November:It will be release by pedretti gaming, the guys who made the 2.0 rudys nightmare adventure
Does it do anything?
I don't believe any came with a backglass, even the very early ones. All were translites. I agree, I think on IPDB they are just using the term backglass as a generic term. I have submitted pictures on IPDB and the person submitting the photo picks the title for the picture.
Who is an expert Rudy surgeon? This is my second FH I have restored and had no problems with Rudy the first time. This one I have rebuilt his head and I have all the correct parts installed. However, when Rudy closes his eyes they do not reopen. I can move them manually, but they won't open during gameplay. Seems like something is dragging and restricting them from opening back up, but I can't seem to figure out what the problem is.
Thanks
Quoted from pinballinreno:Its common to have 2 springs or more on the lock mech.
On my locking disc mech, I put 2 springs on it (a thick one and a thin one), as I cant get an original "thicker and stiffer" one, it needs to be a bit firm or balls can push through it too easily.
So, yes its a normal fix for the lock mech, and it works well.
Yes, I had to put two on mine to get it to lock properly.
Quoted from jackd104:On the plunger of the solenoid for the lock mech, there are multiple springs. I never noticed and it must have been this way for 20 years since I owned the game. Is there a reason someone would do this? Is it a workaround or a way to solve some issue I’m not aware of?[quoted image]
If your ball lock works well, I wouldn't mess with it. It can be real finicky. If it ain't broke............
Quoted from jackd104:This look like the correct post for the sling post (front most one)? It’s not holding in tight. Maybe the receptacle piece under the pf is stripped. Anyone know the name/part number of that part under the pf?[quoted image]
That is a T nut and can be bought at most hardware stores. That post does not work with the T nut as that is a wood screw.
Having an issue with Rudy I can't figure out. I have rebuilt him and can't get the eye lids to work. I got brand new coils and still nothing. I am testing him on a bench with t 12 volt battery. Eyes move back and forth fine. I thought maybe there was an issue in the wiring, but I am running jumper wires directly to the new coils and they still don't work. Eye balls move left and right when I test it this way. Not sure what I am missing here.
Quoted from RickyBobby1:Looking at the pics fossmin posted, it looks like a regular plunger stop on the backside of their eyelid solenoid without a hole or the centering flange between the solenoid bracket and solenoid. It should be a bracket with a hole in it on that backside of the solenoid to let the plunger pass through, not a bracket with a plunger stop.
I should have taken a better pic. The front lower solenoid does have a hole in the bracket to let the plunger pass through. I didn't get time to mess with this last night. Hopefully tonight or this weekend.
Thanks
Quoted from SYS6:Hi All. i was helping a mate with his Funhouse and we found this part in the cab base towards the rear. I can't see where it's from, I'm guessing it's in the head? Can anyone enlighten me and perhaps show a picture? Thanks, David.
[quoted image]
edit: I just found this picture in another thread, so it looks like it's something to do with the eyebrows?[quoted image]
Correct. There is a plastic piece missing where the pin is. Readily available.
Is there a trick to testing the lock switches on the topside of the playfield with a ball without removing the ramp?
Thanks
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:Could you put it into switch edge test so you can hear when a switch is activated then lift the playfield pull the switch down from underneath?
I can test from underneath, but it doesn't mean a ball will activate the switch. It is always better to test with an actual ball.
Is there a way to adjust the strength of coil for Rudy's Hideout behind his head? The ball shoots out of there so fast, and if you don't get the upper flipper on it, it goes straight down the middle.
Quoted from DuffysArcade:I was intrigued by the Pedretti Gaming Funhouse 2.0 kit when I first saw it (before I saw the price), but as time has went on...I'm glad I didn't buy it. I agree with you - I have nostalgia for the OG. The Rudy's Nightmare kit is like putting a hat on the Mona Lisa.
I had two FHs so it was easy for me. One original and one 2.0.
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