(Topic ID: 64458)

Funhouse!? Club... (Fans welcome)

By mof

10 years ago


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  • 5,074 posts
  • 462 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Coyote
  • Topic is favorited by 210 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider embryon.
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#110 8 years ago
Quoted from dontfeed:

I've been cleaning up my Funhouse since I got it a month ago. It was too dark, black rubbers, etc. so I decided to brighten it up some. Here's a few before pics.
IMG_20150509_204023478.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
IMG_20150509_204033738.jpg (Click image to enlarge)IMG_20150509_204059037.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
I removed all the black rubbers and replaced with new white rubbers. I noticed the posts were dingy and cracked so I replaced most of them. You can see the light better now without yellowed posts and black everywhere. I ordered a new plastics kit since the plastics are rough and yellowed as well. I added some white lighting in a few dark places. I added the LED pop bumpers too. Man, they're nice. Just got the new bumper caps so they'll be going on soon. It had blue LED flipper buttons, so I added a blue start button to match. I also added the STEP target shields.
IMG_20150516_222817549.jpg (Click image to enlarge)IMG_20150517_154551142.jpg (Click image to enlarge)IMG_20150516_225234350.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

Looks nice, good to see the double rubbering on the slings. What was the purpose of that?

#116 8 years ago

I thought that the double rubber might make the slings less forceful when flinging the ball. Personally I think single rubber is the way to go

1 month later
#143 8 years ago
Quoted from mjenison:

I just spent the evening trying to adjust the left shooter on mine as well. The left shooter is too far right, and too high, so the ball doesn't fire up the ramp properly. The playfield is adjusted as far right as it can go, and the right plunger is perfect. Tried adding washers and such, but still not good enough, so the conclusion I've come to is that I'm going to have to pull out the dremel with a Rotozip bit and adjust the plunger hole about an 1/8" to the left.

Please let us know if this works as I believe a lot of us have a similar problem

#145 8 years ago
Quoted from trihedron:

Joining the club, here is my restore from 3 years ago: http://imgur.com/a/7kGsx

Omg what a difference, great job there

11 months later
#383 7 years ago

Please be aware that a lot of fh inserts have white print so you need to be able to print white

11 months later
#601 6 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Take up,the Aus guys on their offer. Those are hard to find.

I think he is an Aussie anyway

#603 6 years ago
Quoted from lukex:

... and he hasn't made contact so I can only imagine he found the piece he had misplaced. All good. At least others know where two exist now!!

is good to know. My game is packed away for another month, will need to check out my plastic. I may need to contact you mate

#607 6 years ago

I shorted out something while doing a flipper rebuild on a tz and got this error. Check Clay's guide I think it had a solution to it that I followed. It involved a board repair

#609 6 years ago

I forgot to mention. You need to find the cause if the short otherwise the board again

#610 6 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

I forgot to mention. You need to find the cause if the short otherwise the board again

here's a quick explanation on what to try

Slam Tilt Stuck Closed Error.
Upon turning the game on, a "slam tilt stuck closed" error is shown, and the game just won't do anything past that. This can be as simple as the slam switch inside the coin door is bent closed. Also there is a slam switch in the bottom of the cabinet to the left of the coin box (be sure to check that switch too). Or it could be some sort of CPU switch problem.
To issolate the problem, turn the game off and disconnect all the connectors from the bottom of the CPU board. Then turn the game back on. If the error is no longer shown, the problem is in the playfield or cabinet wiring/switches. If the error is still shown, the problem is in the CPU board itself. If the problem is on the CPU board, usually it's a problem with a ULN2803 or LM339 chip.

2 weeks later
#626 6 years ago
Quoted from Pahuffman:

I did not see this one in my game. It's not currently at my house, so I have limited time to work on it, but I did have time to check for this switch. Do they all have this?

They should unless removed. Usually they are bent far apart to disable this function

1 week later
#638 6 years ago
Quoted from Pahuffman:

Any way you can snag a quick picture so I know where to look? I only seem to have the slam tilt switch on the coin door.

sorry mate am currently moving house and game still packed away. I'll try to get a photo soon as should be unpacked in a week or so. Maybe someone else could shoot you a pic

1 year later
#1246 5 years ago
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

I drilled out the hole last night. I am finding that I can use a fresh drill bit and turn it by hand over a hole to scrape off the clear coat before I drill any holes. My post is not stock (the picture I used came off the internet), and is held in with a screw on the bottom. To help keep the hole straight, I drilled a smaller pilot hole first, and then went back and drilled my final hole.
Getting this new playfield put together is taking a lot longer that I thought it would. It doesn't help that lately I have only been able to work on it an hour or so at a time, as I am also trying to juggle my shop time between my FH and and repainting my Sorcerer cabinet.

Have been told to run the drills in reverse to protect the clear when drilling.

4 months later
#1404 5 years ago

Oops somethings up with my fh
Embarking on a cabinet resto

IMG20190211154526 (resized).jpgIMG20190211154526 (resized).jpg
#1416 5 years ago
Quoted from BoP:

Just picked up a very nice Funhouse. Great game, thoroughly enjoying having it home.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice pickup there mate. I'm in the process of a cab resto on mine. The only game in my line up that was in need of work. How she turns out as good as yours

#1418 5 years ago

Hi guys, I'm well into restoring my fh cabinet and headbox. I'm trying to even replace damaged labels by making my own. Unfortunately there's one label on top of the head box that has faded and been over sprayed with blue. Impossible to read except for bits. All I can make out is

CAUTION
FOR THE
BEFORE
TIGHTENING BACK BOX

I wondering if anyone can photograph or tell me what the label said? I know it was white with red typeface

Thanks in advance

#1420 5 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

This?[quoted image]

Excellent thank you

2 weeks later
#1445 5 years ago
Quoted from zerbam:

i already tried to order the eyes and crank from them .......but they ran out of eyes and the shipping is crazy for one part

Hey now you see an Aussie's point of view. US postage crazy for us. Welcome to the club re crazy postage lol

#1447 5 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

So why don't you guys help each others about small parts? Buy the small stuff, and send it in a small envelope vs crazy default overseas starting price by Marco, PSPA etc.

I don't think Australia has any policy in sending small parcels but I have been told that US suppliers are restricted in postal options. Maybe someone can confirm this here.

3 weeks later
#1470 5 years ago

Nearing completion of my cab resto. Redecal, made all the labels, new translite, new speaker panel, clean and polish all metal parts etc

IMG20190330204516 (resized).jpgIMG20190330204516 (resized).jpgIMG20190330204439 (resized).jpgIMG20190330204439 (resized).jpgIMG20190329104016 (resized).jpgIMG20190329104016 (resized).jpgIMG20190330204428 (resized).jpgIMG20190330204428 (resized).jpgIMG20190330231905 (resized).jpgIMG20190330231905 (resized).jpg

#1472 5 years ago

It's alive and back on the line up

IMG20190331185459 (resized).jpgIMG20190331185459 (resized).jpgIMG20190331185734 (resized).jpgIMG20190331185734 (resized).jpg
#1474 5 years ago
Quoted from BoP:

Looking real good mate! Fits back in perfectly with your awesome lineup too.

Thanks very much

#1476 5 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Just read through some of the funhouse restoration threads. It's not that bad.
basically, document/take pics of all the wiring
unplug everything from the boards, remove the backbox
remove the boards, remove the metal piece behind the boards
remove the decals (some sand off, other heat-and-peel (or scrape)) heat and peel worked great for me.
sand sand sand, bondo, more sanding, more bondo, more sanding.
primer it, paint it, decal it.
put everything back together )

That sums it up

#1478 5 years ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Hey there, I am also nearing the end of my funhouse restoration.
Anyone knows where I could find Rudy's face?
Mine has a crack and as everything else will look new, I'd love to find a pristine one.

Can try planetary pinball or Mr pinball in Australia

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