Bethlehem, PA
I replaced my cam a while ago. I could not locate the whole assembly that Bay Area sells at the time. I had to chisel off the cam and pound the new one on. Luckily it is working fine.
(Topic ID: 64458)
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1 week later
Quoted from Opiate:Hi all,
got #Funhouse the other day Just going through maintenance and need to fix Rudy's eyes and eyelids.
Does anyone know how to detach the lower jaw from the gear under the playfield? I can't pull the head out because I can't detach the jaw from it.
Thanks!
I just pulled out Rudy. I took both top face and back of head off from top. Below I disconnected the wires and took the pin out from the jaw rod. The jaw stays attached. The jaw motor comes down then the head assembly comes down.
I put in 6 PL non-ghosting LEDs in the mirror. During game play the top bulb is super bright but the other 5 are not at any time. Is this normal?
OK. I had red blue green red blue green in before and I thought it was good. I wanted to try the stock green 4 yellow red to give it the stock look. I will change it back. This pin needed nonghosting LEDs throughout.
4 weeks later
Quoted from pinballshark:I got my new Mirco playfield installed. It looks NICE! Many new parts, new ramps, new plastics, all metal polished, flippers rebuilt, etc. I did my own lighting mods. All the work was well worth it.
I am going to replace my playfield soon. Do you have any tips to start this project?
Thanks. I took lots of pictures. Am labeling almost everything. The playfield came from Marco. It looks great. The urethane coating is so smooth!
This will take a while. Will post pics later.
I am using white sticky labels and folding them on the wires. My old playfield looks yellow where the new one is white. It has some nasty ball wear.
Thanks. This is one project that can't be rushed. I am now waiting on some plastic parts from Bay Area. USPS decided that first class means wait a long time to get it! Should have had it by now. Will do Fed Ex next time. Most of top is done. Will do wires and bottom next. Will replace and repair parts as I go.
I just completed my playfield swap. The display and sound are working. There are no lights anywhere and none of the mechanical work. When I turn it off there is a flash of light from under the playfield. I labeled everything and think I put all the connections in the right places. Disappointed after all that work!
That was on when I picked it up. Not sure where it came from. The picture does not look that great. Looks fantastic in person. The old playfield was really hammered!
Rotisseries would have been great to have. I used some folding tables. Take pictures from lots of different angles. I used different colored and numbered labels. One color for lights, one for coils, etc.. I tried to have parts for the things I thought would break but still had to do a few more orders during the rebuild. I am still adjusting things like the pops. It does look great when it lights up during Frenzy. Faster now and still a ball drainer!
I could not find the 3" round post that goes behind the "T" target but did find a similar one at Marco. 02-4765-19. It is the right height but is slightly thicker. Better than the hex spacer. I also missed putting in the short metal spacer behind the 3" one. I do not think it has any purpose but the hole is there.
4 weeks later
He may have done the mylar because of the ball dropping there. The ball on mine falls on the flap. I only added mylar at the other 2 ball drops when I swapped the playfield recently.
I got the playfield from Marco. Does not say who made it. The clear coat is thick and looks great. A few of the dimples were not right. I lined up stuff myself. The pops do not need the mylar on mine. I did the drops because that is where the old pf took a lot of damage. I got sheets of mylar from Marco and custom cut pieces.
Quoted from arcadenerd925:What do you guys think about pop bumper LED's? Any pics or info to share about your setup?
Debating between just putting an LED bulb in there VS something like a ring
I like my pins mostly factory stock. I did use all LEDs in all the pins. I got this FH with speaker rings. One small and one large. Hated that!
Quoted from hisokajp:hey guys, just picked a restoration FH today. i have looked around to the usual place and found pretty much all i need but Rudy's face plate. Mine has the paint pretty worn out... Is replacement or repainting available out there?
Little Shop of Games has it for $55.
1 week later
1 month later
Quoted from drummermike:OK. I had red blue green red blue green in before and I thought it was good. I wanted to try the stock green 4 yellow red to give it the stock look. I will change it back. This pin needed nonghosting LEDs throughout.
I just got 4 yellow, one red and one green non ghosting LED from Comet. These are working OK. The other bulbs that had inconsistent brightness levels were from another manufacturer. Happy with the Comets!
4 weeks later
Quoted from pudealee:I'm wanting to do a flipper job on my FH. Anybody have recommendations on where to order rebuild kits?
Marco or Pinball Life.
Quoted from erak:Just got a funhouse last week. I still need to clean it up. And do some tweaks. But overall it's in nice shape.
I like it more than I thought I would.
Just wondering about my inserts above the flippers? 3 on the left are orange and 3 on the right are yellow. They are original to the game.
Also some of the circuit boards are red.
Prototype? Or factory error?
I think my FH inserts are 5 orange for Gangway and 1 red for extra ball.
4 weeks later
1 month later
Quoted from bkaelin:Anyone have a list of the essential coil sleeves needed for a funhouse when doing a restoration?
thanks!
CS1297 is the Marco coil sleeve kit number.
1 month later
Quoted from Scroat:This is what I am after for the 12 insert.
Are you using orange bulbs for your 1,2,3,...11 inserts?
my opinion white look more original in those locations. I was disappointed in my LED kit that came with orange bulbs for those inserts, but that’s just my opinion. Too much orange in the center for me.
The white bulbs I put in make the Clock have more definition.
I think I used orange on the outer and yellow on the inner circle.
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:Ok while working on my FH restoration, I came across something odd on my serial number decal. Anyone else have a 'low power' Funhouse?
[quoted image]
Mine is also 8 amps.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Elicash:Hi guys, in the middle of a restore. Does anyone know about this strange rubber tape that the factory put under the ramp flaps? It appears to be about 1/16 " thick and it has double sided adhesive. The green is the adhesive backing that they didn't remove.
Does this serve a purpose? should I try to replace it under my ramp flaps?
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There was a post from another Pinsider earlier about this. It is needed. I used 3M mounting tape and left on one side of the red plastic covering. The other side was removed to stick it down. I did this when I replaced the playfield recently.
Quoted from Elicash:Thanks. Any idea where this was posted about? Was it in FH thread or in another thread? Do you have a link for the 3M stuff you used? thanks.
It is in this FH thread. You can get the mounting tape at Walmart or Home Depot or Lowe's. I got 1/2" and 3/4" widths. I use it for many things in my pins.
Quoted from Elicash:Thanks. Any idea where this was posted about? Was it in FH thread or in another thread? Do you have a link for the 3M stuff you used? thanks.
I cannot find the earlier post here. I may be wrong. Do a Forum search for ramp padding. There are lots of posts to look at.
Quoted from arcadenerd925:Bout to start populating my new Mirco PF.
Question, after the trap door, where the clear plastic is screwed to the PF.. on the new PF, there are clearly dimples, but no real pilot hole. This ok? or should i drill some?
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I would drill small pilot holes. You don't want to mess up the clear coat. I think my new playfield had the holes drilled out. But I can't remember for sure!
1 week later
Quoted from wfumed2:Rudy's lips on my machine have taken a beating. Has anyone figured out the exact color red of the original that would match if I wanted to touch up the missing paint spots?
I used a large red Sharpie. It looks alright. I used it on the inside of the bottom lip also.
1 month later
Quoted from Durzel:As an aside how easy is it to remove the ramps to get the playfield to that state? Any gotchas to be aware of? Thanks in advance.
The switches on the ramps all unplug from below the playfield. Unplug and take out the ramps.
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:I’ve got a question for those of you who have swapped your original playfield for a Mirco. Did you have to drill out the hole for the post I’ve circled on the attached picture?[quoted image]
How was the post held in place (Tee nut or lock nut)?
My original playfield appears to be messed up in this area, and I’m not entirely sure it was stock.
I drilled out my hole and used a locknut.
1 month later
Quoted from Squeakman:Does anyone have an IPB playfield installed in their Funhouse? I know nothing about the quality and workability of them. Can anyone give me an idea if they are a good option? Were they complete? Fully drilled and dimpled? Easy to work with, etc?
I got mine from Marco. No manufacture name on it. It is beautiful.
1 month later
Quoted from arcadenerd925:My repro one was missing that flange too. It was annoying. I ended up just putting some washers under the trap door hinge to level it up.
I did the same thing! Nice to have it smooth and level.
1 month later
Quoted from nwpinball:Does anyone have a parts list for things they bought before doing a playfield swap on Funhouse? I have a reproduction playfield, plastics and ramps. But before I start to put together my own list of posts, targets, screws, etc. I thought I'd check if someone else already did. I have to assume a lot of people have done the playfield swap by this point. Thanks!!
I needed a few posts. I ordered a few of each before I knew what I needed. Get 9 of the screws for the poppers. I could not get any of them out of the playfield to reuse.
3 months later
Quoted from TomT:So after 30+ years of pinball ownership I finally picked up a Funhouse faded cab but new playfield installed plays great such a classic game! Is there any current source for the pop bumper decals?
Bay Area Amusements has them in stock for $11.00.
1 week later
Quoted from CLEllison:For no expense I feel you missed adding the GIOCD and LEDOCD boards. Kind of almost mandatory for a FH with full LED. Allows GI to dim for midnight multi ball and smooths out over all LED performance. Super nice build btw. Does the speaker upgrade actually improve the sound enough making it worth the additonal expense?
Can you give more info on these boards? Vendors and prices? I would like to add them to my all LED FH. Thanks.
3 weeks later
4 months later
Quoted from Scoot:Speaking of Fun house pop decals, does anyone know where I can find just the stickers for them?
I think Pinball Decals has them. Also Ministry of Pinball.
1 month later
Quoted from zerbam:stripped down my funhouse cabinet for restore.........any idea what the metal "L" bracket screwed to the insde back of the lower cabinet is for?
That holds the 2 wire bundles off to the right side of the cabinet so they do not cover the left side decal.
Quoted from zerbam:what left side decal are you talking about?
The one on the inside of the cabinet. Your decal is missing.
20200112_153611 (resized).jpgQuoted from mollyspub:Ok so you do know that's not factory?
This is how I got it. I did not know that.
Quoted from zerbam:when the playfield is in place does that decal show?
I can see one flag. Not really worth putting it in.
I think I had to bend the metal bracket that the ball rests in. I may have moved the bracket and drilled new holes. It was a while ago.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Kneissl:Cpr plastic set has this rectangle piece.. anyone know where it goes?[quoted image]
I think it is not used.
2 months later
Quoted from schwism:Thanks. Another couple of items for my next Marco order.
The molex is connected underneath. Having a fuse issue on the upper right GI but am still wondering if the light is part of GI or is controlled. Is it supposed to be on all the time or only at certain times like the Gangway light.
It is always on.
2 weeks later
I replaced the original right side with the hex post. The left side has no ramp post. I do not know why that left post is behind the light.
What you are doing is right. Arcadenerd925's first picture is correct. One post on the right only.
The two holes in the recessed area are for the two small screws that hold the bottom of the ramp.
Use the front hole on the right for the hex post.
2 weeks later
1 month later
Quoted from jawjaw:Anyone use the starship main ramp? I had to remove the metal post thing that is on the left side to get it to remotely fit. Getting all the holes to line up is a challenge. I need to pull pretty hard on the right side but think it will work. Just afraid it will be a lot of stress on ramp. The top plastic cover holes are way off so keeping old one even though a bit yellowed. Should these just drop in?
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Maybe change the holes into slots to relieve the stress.
I made my own top plastic out of lexan. Had to get rid of the yellow one!
5 months later
Quoted from arcadenerd925:Nice idea. I left mine bare but i suppose if I really wanted color there I would just use some heat shrink tube.
I did put black heat shrink over my post. Fits perfectly.
7 months later
Quoted from mjenison:My topper
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I guess you like Pat Lawlor! Great topper and collection.
1 month later
2 weeks later
Quoted from yzfguy:You guys are waaay off on those colors!
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May want to put a rubber on that post! 
1 week later
My FH steps gate in the lower left corner is not working properly. It does not open or close all the time when it is activated. I replaced the coil with a new one. Still not working 100%. Nothing is binding under the playfield. In test mode the coil buzzes but does not swing the gate. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
Quoted from pinballinreno:It might be assembled wrong or too tight.
Test it manually, test its actuation manually with the playfield mostly down.
Test it from the bottom by actuating the coil manually, not the topside.
I cut a 2x4 to get it propped up mostly down like on modern games.
Its a weird mech. I had to fiddle with mine to get it right.
Its so loose/sloppy that if the plates go slightly out of adjustment it fails or binds as soon as you put the playfield down.
Once its set properly its pretty stable and solid though.
I only replaced the coil. It works manually. I had it for years and it just started to act up. The coil is magnetic so it can only be activated with power.
I will have to look at it again later. Thanks.
I took out the gate post and put some lube on it. Something may have been out of alignment. It is working smoothly now. Thanks for all the advice.
Quoted from AlexRogan84:Right on, thanks.
On that second photo, you can see a small yellow presumably rubber sleeve over the end of the little peg that inserts into the bracket there. Is that factory? Or added afterwards? I don't have one of those on my game. Looks like it would take up some of that unnecessary slop in the movement.[quoted image]
Mine does not have the sleeve. It is working nicely now though.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I put a dab of silicone grease on the pin to reduce wear in the slot.
Any metal on metal rubbing can benefit from a tiny drop of super lube or silicone grease.
Just use it sparingly.
It would be great if some spare parts for the mech became available.
Marco has some of the parts.
2 months later
Quoted from pinballinreno:A missing door stop for the trap door is responsible for bent flaps and broken hinges.
Make sure you have it installed:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10223
Mine was missing also. My FH did not have it. I replaced the playfield some years ago but never knew it was missing.
I made my own piece out of a small metal corner brace. I ground the one side down till it hit the trap door. Works.
Quoted from Completist:Finally! My trap door with a flap
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I used a large red Sharpie on my Rudy lower lip. It was quick and the color was a good match.
3 months later
Quoted from LitzDoc:Great description. Thank you so much. Now I understand it. That will be what I do this weekend. I also changed out all the black post bumpers to different colors. I did that last night after playing about an hour‘s worth a fun house. I think it looks pretty decent.
[quoted image]
You must have seen my FH!
5 months later
Quoted from mkdud:Please help. Can anyone suggest someone I can send my kickout scoop to for welding? Mine is broken to the point where the kickout direction has become erratic. Thanks in advance, mk
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Any local welding shop should be able to weld stainless steel. My local shop did a great repair on one of my LAH scoops.
1 month later
Quoted from Green-Machine:The fun begins Spent the day tearing it down for a restoration.
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Good time to put in the large style Williams cab corner leg braces.
Quoted from Green-Machine:Good call! I thought I ordered everything I needed.
I missed items also when I replaced my FH playfield. Good luck.
2 months later
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Preparing for a PF swap myself... I built my own custom rotisserie, its rock solid, very adjustable and sturdy AF. It cost me about the same to build as PinDoc's Pro model.
The clamps are integrated into the angle iron supports, and its designed to have the front PF hangers bolted to it. Which is why the front support only has 2 clamps, neither of which are even necessary when the hangers are bolted in. Anyone care to guess where I got the idea for the rest of the structure? [quoted image]
Drum rack!
Quoted from TheOnlyest:NAILED IT!! I knew there had to be some other drummers around here!
So when i'm done with this project, I have some spare parts that I can repurpose!
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Nice set up! Check out "The drummer's thread" for more drumming stuff.
There are many drummers on this site.
Quoted from pinballinreno:You dont need to use the 3rd hole unless you "just want to drill it".
It doesnt need it, in fact the end screws dont have to be super tight. Only so that the heads are flush
I did not use the middle hole when I replaced my pf.
Quoted from Zee:Mine has a post there that supports the main ramp and switch gate. Here are photos from the teardown (22 years ago):
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Mine also has the post for ramp support.
3 weeks later
4 months later
Quoted from DK:What’s the latest code on FH?
9.05H from Matt's Basement Arcade
7 months later
Quoted from Lodi:I have a ramp question. I’m dealing with a new play field and new ramps. The step ramp hits the main ramp which makes it sits about 1/2” above the lower front post, where it secures to the play field just above the ball drop. I can do one of two things. I can force it into position, which does not seem like a good solution, or I can install 3” post in place of the stock 2 1/2” post. See pictures. Has anyone experienced similar? Any thoughts?
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That post should be 3"! The ramps should not touch. My FH post is 3". I put in new ramps and playfield. You may have mixed up some of the posts.
3 weeks later
Quoted from brado426:I'm thinking about implementing my own shaker motor for my FH. I really don't want to lose the sound of my original board. Everyone says PinSound sounds different and that doesn't sound like a good thing.
I have a Pinshakers hooked up to the flashers in my FH. It works great.
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