Could someone tell me the normal behavior of the trap door? When i got my game it had an issue with the trap door closed solenoid. I was able to resolve the issue on the Driver board (bad tip 36c and a weak trace) and replaced the coil which had been cooked. So now it works in test Mode fine. But i find it strange that when you power up the game the door will open and close repeatedly for several seconds. Then it stops. But then it might start up again and cycle open and closed. This is all happening in attract mode.

During gameplay it seems normal. But in attract mode it doesnt seem to want to stay still. I’m concerned there is still an underlying issue that caused the coil to fail in the first place.

Thanks. I will double check that switch. I turned it on this morning and on initial boot it behaved. As in it just stayed closed. Played a couple games, it opened when i shot a ball around the trap door loop, then closed as i believe it is supposed to when you dont hit the trap door in time.

So then i leave it in attract mode, and for a while it was fine. Then it started back up. Open then immediately close, repeating that for several cycles then stops. The only thing going on in attract mode is lighting effects, so maybe something is going on with my lamp matrix interfering with that one switch? I dont even know if thats possible lol. Its the only coil acting up. My rule is before i tear a game down to restore i have to have it working 100%.

Ok will i will give that a shot

WPC introduced a GI dimming effect, which is lost when you install LEDs in the GI. Which doesn’t bother everyone. However you can buy 2 products; LED OCD for controlled lamps to maintain the softer fade on/fade off effects you get with incandescent, and GI OCD to maintain the GI dimming effects. If you go that route, you don’t need to spend more for premium LED’s.

If you don’t care about how the LEDs will “behave” (and i’m not advocating one over the other as its purely personal preference) then Comet Pinball makes a good product. Usually my go-to for LEDs.

You can temper GI brightness with how many smds the lamp has. I usually go with 2 smd frosted. Cool or warm white depending on the art (theres a sunlight version too) I don’t like color matching GI but again, personal preference. Though there is a whole puke thread dedicated to that....

Yeah i would go Full LED with the OCD boards if it was a keeper. For me i would prioritize the GI OCD over the other but to each there own. I just bought a set for my CV. I’ve been running LEDs in the controlled lamps but never changed the GI out, but with the OCD board i will finally do that.

On any game with a backglass (versus translite) i want the incandescents out! Most of those are pre-WPC so i dont feel i lose anything. Incandescents have destroyed so many silk screened ones. Plastics are also a concern as mentioned above. I’ve never had any issues with my CV but i also dont run it for prolonged periods to have an issue there.

Going to be restoring my FH here soon as well. Have a IPB pf going to @kruzman. He did my AFM and it came out spectacular.

So i kept the game in switch test while i was looking at something else. sporadically the trap door would Register. I’m not activating it so found that odd. Figured the microswitch was flaky and waited for the new one to arrive to replace it. Did that today but no improvement. Trap door still cycling open and closed.

So then i started testing all switches, seeing if anything looked odd. Found some that were no longer registering even though i was certain they worked before. Went through every switch looking for a short, then started testing continuity between switches in the same rows. The row with the white/blue wire was looking suspect now which the trap door happens to belong in. None were registering at all. Also notice that switches that worked with pf up no longer work with pf down on a different row. I pull the pf right out of the game to make it easier to see and inspect the harness for breaks. But everything looks fine. I figure i must have a switch matrix problem now.

I decide to pull the Connector for the switch rows to check continuity from the connector to the pf. This is when things get interesting. The idc connector pins look like shit. The mpu is a new repro one that someone installed. Clearly batteries leaked on that board so they replaced it. But never bothered to change the connector which got hit also. So on with a new connector and wouldn’t you know it, everything works again and that stupid trap door is behaving now!

Tonight, for the first time since i bought this “working project”, i played a proper game of Funhouse.

I wouldn’t go so far as to replace micro switches if they functioned fine before you took it apart. I just make sure the game works 100% before i tear it apart so that if something isnt working after i put it back together i know its something i did.

My switch ended up not being the issue, it wad a connector that looked good from far but was far from good.

I would definitely replace all the coil sleeves while its easy to do so, and they are cheap relative to most things. And replace the wear items on the flippers (not the coils or brackets; things like coil stops, plungers if the linkage is loose, EOS switches etc).

That is f’n awesome. Nice work.

Would anyone have a lead on where i can get a new trap door ramp flap. Mine was missing when i got the game.

Pinbits shows there’s as sold out. I emailed Pam a long time ago but hadn’t heard back so looking for an alternate solution

Good tip. I’ll give that a shot - thanks!

That connector is for your general illumination so it won’t be related to the display. You might be missing some playfield lighting though.

At a crossroads here. I have a v nice IPB playfield that i sent to Kruzman for drilling, dimpling, key-line fixes and clear. But don’t have the time for restorations these days. So i can hang onto it, or sell it because installing myself will likely result in my game being down for a long time.

Shoot me a pm if you are looking for a nice silkscreened pf with a beauty clear coat. Cheaper than a Mirco? Fuck no, not even close lol.

Brought this into the shop last night. Gonna tear the top side down and see how far i want to go with it over the holidays.

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Good eye. It’s the original funhouse head that someone painted the front edge black. I assume to clean up the face without trying to match the blue. At first i thought it was electrical tape but no, its black paint.

I do have a full set of cabinet art for it. But the cab restore is on the back burner for now.

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So i started with just changing out some burned out GI lamps. Which there were many and made my game pretty dark. But then noone here at home was bugging me or asking me to do anything. So i tore the whole topside apart. It was very filthy back there. I replaced all the GI with comet 2smd sunlights. All the rubbers replaced with titans i bought on black friday (not the one that just past either lol). With the ramps out i replaced those with the ones i bought off Larry forever ago lol. The picture may not show it but there’s a world of difference now. Finally i color matched the controlled lamps (i leave flashers incandescent typically). I do have Cliffy’s to protect the ramps which i of course forgot. So i’ll add those on tomorrow. But very happy with todays progress and how the game is looking now.

Still need to lift the hood again to rebuild the flippers. And i have to pull the trap door to install a new flap cuz mine was snapped off. Actually found the old flap in behind Rudy. Rudy functions fine but i’ll open him up and service him anyway. I think everyone funhouse owner shud have to do that at least once.

The good thing is i got to see whats involved on there in case i decide to install the new playfield.

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Thanks guys. No the playfield isn’t terrible. There’s that little bit of wear at the scoop kickout, and around the base of the pops has a good bit of wear too. There is mylar on it, but must of been added after the fact cuz the wear near the the scoop is under it. At least its not getting worse haha.

Typically i’m a purist but man i LOVE the evil clown/joker Rudys. Who does these? I know Modfather offers a repainting service but didn’t see that option. I would def do that to mine.

If anyone needs a steps ramp hit me up. The one i pulled from my game yesterday is in good shape, no cracks or chips and ramp flap is intact. My main ramp was broken so i just changed both since the new ones are so clear and colorless and i wanted them to match. I don’t know if these ever break tbh but thought i’d post in case someone was in need.

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Finally pulled my trapdoor out so i can replace the broken entry flap. Need to wait for the new trap door /decal to arrive then i’m all set to reassemble. My hinge is decent and my game does have the trap door stop installed.

For those wondering, i was able to source the flap from Cliff Rinear (aka Cliffy). Ordered a spare too.

Also pulled my mirrored backglass out and installed it. Figured why keep waiting for the restore, glass is safest in the game. What a difference. Also really happy with the fit of system 11 trim as per the tip from pinballinreno

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Yep its on there. But when i got the game the screw holding the stop was loose so it wasn’t doing its job well. Had to pull the subway off to tighten it up.

Even if the connector looks ok, the header pins could of lost their plating and oxidize. By reseating the connector you temp “clean” the contacts but its a temp solution. If reseating the connector brings them back then i’m fairly confident that replacing the headers and repinning the connectors (which can also lose tension) will solve the issue.

Finally! My trap door with a flap

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Good idea, i will touch that up. I am going to send Rudy out to Modfather at some point. Though i’m really liking the joker versions I’ve seen on here!

Definitely not on my game either. I originally thought with the small ones anyway that they were pieces cutout from within larger pieces that were to be removed. But its too coincidental that these exact plastics are in my set too, and there are no larger plastics that have those colors/holes with those shapes. You would think they go on top of something to prevent a ball getting trapped like some of the other ones that are stock.

As for the large yellow one, I couldn’t find anywhere that the hole patterns could line up to, or what benefit it would have. Shooter lane cover - but how to secure it, and why?

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There is another one in the set that goes there, similar but diff shape.