(Topic ID: 64458)

Funhouse!? Club... (Fans welcome)

By mof

10 years ago


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#3236 2 years ago

Hey guys, I'm hoping someone could help me with a sound issue - namely there is no sound.

Based on feedback, I completely assumed that continuity / the cabinet speaker was the issue. I tested with 2 known working speakers and it did not restore the sound. Does the "sub" need to be specific Ohms or whatever to still produce any sound from the machine? I tested continuity at various points along the speaker wire chain and even from one connector on the sound board to the other connector on the sound board. It tested positive continuity all around.

I can't see how it's a bad chip since I have tried 2 entirely different sound boards.

In total, I have swapped the sound board, cpu board, and ribbon cable between them - and confirmed continuity along the speaker/sub wiring. I even swapped in a spare speaker panel assembly, just because. Nothing.

I'm at a complete loss.

Anyone have any other thoughts?

#3246 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Should be easy enough to clip a 4 ohm speaker or old headphone onto the sound card to check outputs.

Quoted from Markharris2000:

Continuity is not the best way to track this down. There are JUST TWO pins on the A/V circuit board that matter for speakers on a WPC89. Look at the schematic and you'll see all of it is wired in series. So to start troubleshooting, connect ANY speaker you can get your hands on and connect to the two pins. If you get sound, then it's your speaker wiring. If you don't get sound, then it's your A/V board. That is step one.

Thanks guys!

Based on these comments, I connected some old headphones to the 2 pins and did not get any sound. As I mentioned in my original question post, among the things I tried was swapping the sound board, cpu board, and associated ribbon cable from another game. None of this made a difference, which is why I was thinking it was in the wiring somewhere.

I assume that any set of old 2-wire headphones would work here?

Assuming that's the case, any suggestions on where to look next?

#3253 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Check the schematic carefully.
Attach a speaker (easiest) or even a DC voltmeter to the correct output pins of the sound card.
Check that all ribbon cables are correct and in the correct orientation, red to pin 1, and not plugged in, "off by one pin" or off by a whole line of pins.
With swapping boards etc ,if its hooked up right,
And if the roms are installed.
You will find the sound.
The cabinet speakers are a separate issue to the sound output from the sound board.

I'm connecting the wires from an old pair of headphones to the pins with the black and black/yellow wire connect (504 & 505?). No sound. I swapped sound boards, still no sound. I'm either doing something dumb (completely possible) or there is some issue upstream. Any thoughts of where to go from here?

#3255 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Do you have voltage?
Did you check the fuses?

OK, I'm going to be a dolt here...where do I check voltage on the sound board? Across the two pins we're discussing that lead to the speakers? Should it be 5v?

#3257 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

My thoughts are, after swapping boards, that the sound board isnt getting power perhaps.
Power is delivered from the power/driver board.
I would check if there is power getting delivered to the board.
Fuses?
Loose IDC wire or connection?
Cracked pin?
Wired wrong?

So, I get 5V coming from the CPU board. I do not appear to be getting 5V or 12V at the other connector coming from the transformer. This would explain why swapping sounds boards, cpu boards and ground straps didn't change anything.

However, I guess I don't know how to test voltage from the transformer? I'm not reading power on the green/gray wire coming from the transformer, but I tried testing the same thing in another of the same machine (that works), and I didn't get any power reading there either.

Is there something special about catching these readings? Multimeter on DC, one lead on the gray/green pin at the 15-pin molex, the other to ground strap. Same way I tested voltage from the CPU board. What am I missing?

#3259 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Peruse this document, there is a lot of great testing and diagnostic info here:
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC
Is your game one of the earlier ones?
the sound overlay board acts as a power supply for the sound board on early games.
https://ksarcade.net/a-13502-williams-sound-overlay-board.html
It has fuses on it.

OK, I'm an idiot. I was measuring for DC, but it should have been AC from the transformer. At connector 501 I am getting 20VAC, and I'm getting 5VDC from the CPU. Fuses test fine, and I do not have a sound overlay board.

Sorry to be such a pain with this, but if my speaker circuit tests fine, and the sound board is getting proper power, it would seem the issue is somewhere on the sound board. But it seems unlikely I would have the same issue on 2 sound boards, one was confirmed good when it was removed a while back.

#3262 2 years ago
Quoted from Zee:

Just to confirm, you are commanding the game to produce sounds, correct? Like in the tests menu, music tests?

Yes. I don't hear the bong or the coindoor button noises, but then I go into one of the music tests and still get nothing.

#3264 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Could be a bad ribbon cable, trade them out, clean the pins.
If the issue persists after changing out the sound board:
Does the sound board work in another game?
You can leave the roms in. It will just play whatever is there in test.
Or trade out the roms etc.
If the board shows that its good, then check the wiring or ribbon cable.
If the CPU and sound are known to be good, then its the driver board or wiring or ribbon cable.
As a quick test trade the driver board too.
If all boards are known to be good, then its a connector or wiring or ribbon cable.
Check the fuses in the driver board with a meter. Check f114 for corrosion etc.
One more thing, reseat the connector on the coin door interconnect board and press all the idc wires in.
Check the coin door wiring and swtches.
A failure there may lower the volume to zero or affect the door volume control.

Thanks for all this! This progression of things to check is really helpful.

In terms of swapping boards, the only game I have of *almost* this era is TZ. I know it has several additional boards, but of the sound/cpu/power driver, which of these are the same to where I could swap boards into TZ and boot it up to test them?

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