I am excited to officially be a member of this club!

It is one of the sample units with the DP PF (in fantastic condition), decals will eventually get some love but for now I am just stoked to have it. A few switches need attention and the PF could use a quick clean and coat of wax but other than that not a whole lot to do.

For now this goes next to my TZ in the garage (that we just finished drywalling, ugh, never again do I want to do that, I have a newfound respect for those that do drywall work, heh)

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Pics from my newly acquired FH.

Gave it a quick wipe down (not that it was that dirty, but a little dusty in spots), Note: the S target stopped working (failed my manual test) so I replaced it with another standup destined for TZ that I had laying around until a new one arrives. Ramps were previously replaced and in general everything appears intact and in pretty decent shape.

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Under the PF looks pretty good, subways were previously removed and cleaned

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Not sure the signifigance of the serial#, but this is one of the sample machines.

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1 of 2 areas of wear/issue on the PF, not sure what these little holes are from, but I confirmed when grabbing it that there are no holes or screws on the other side. Ball cant hit this area so i wasnt too concerned. Will consider touching it up down the road.

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2 of 2: shooter lane could use a little love.

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Not pictured, the steps shooter lane on the left side, I noticed when picking it up that it was a little dirty over there, however, did not notice that it had mylar there. Does not look to be damaged at all so I thought that was strange. Will contemplate down the road removing that strip of mylar to give it a good clean and touch up if needed.

In the process of ordering:

- Rubber kit
- Flipper rebuild kit (functions fine, but the return spring on the left is kind of weak, so i figured might as well have the kit on hand for parts + some extra springs)
- Steps stand up targets
- May pick up a few switches to keep on hand (trough, ramps, etc) but so far they all seem to work fine.

If I have missed anything let me know.

"might want to pick up the round jaw gear while your at it. these commonly break."

Sweet, appreciate the suggestion.

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Glad you were able to figure out the wiring, was about to snap a pic of mine but realized that since its a sample machine it has a sys11 sound board, so I didn't want to throw you off, heh.

Any pics to share of the mylar removal project? Previous owner of mine put some mylar down on the steps shooter lane and I considering removing to clean it up a bit.

Appreciate it, I am new to the process but had assumed I would use my rework heat gun @ low temp to warm the glue underneath, so this is the kinda stuff I need to hear, haha.

Sweet, let us know how the LED's and Cliffy process goes, I will be heading down this same path soon-ish.

Sweet! are you using that LED OCD thing? (unsure if that is needed or not, both for inserts and/or GI)

Question: where is switch 55 steps superdog opto, apparently I need to check it. Having trouble locating it via manual.

Ah, not in front of machine. @ the top of the steps ramp I believe. Will run through switch test. Wonder If I Just Haven't Hit It Yet

Left plunger seems weAK so hard to get that far

Yeah I would be curious to get some feedback on what to use myself as well. and then get some to try and play around with it a bit.

This! I was also curious about doing something with the hidden hallway and scoops. Considering using the pinduino to controll it.

For the insert LED's, which comet's did you end up going with style wise (i assume like the other LED mfg's they have diff version/type lights)

Regarding "switch 55 (step sup.dog opto)", I just had that come up on my test report too. It is the opto at the very end of the steps ramp before it comes back down on the other side. Check it via switch test, but in my case, I never make it to the end of that ramp, so that one is basically always going to show up in the test report (since noone is hitting it)

If it says missing balls on startup, go back into switch test and check the switches in the trough. Check to make sure each one registers when a ball is present. Could just be a bad, misaligned or loose switch.

Do the flippers work when in test mode? if not, I would check the wires going to it, fuses, etc and start there.

My post sleeves are in need of replacement post haste. what colors/brand do you guys use?

yeah i was thinking of trying to color match the sleeve to the PF location, or just get blue. was curious to see what others have done.

That works, didnt realize he made/sold post sleeves, need to order several cliffys anyways. thnx!

Can you zip the whole thing? curious to see how much that saves. you could also just upload it to a free file sharing service and then just paste the link. (oops, i see someone else already suggested this)

I am curious to check this out myself as the person who sold me mine could not find the manual.

For those of you who use LED's on the inserts. What do you use? I know FH doesnt do much dimming (attract and i think during one part of the game?) so I wasnt sure if LED-OCD was needed here.

Curious to get others thoughts.

Also, need to replace a handful of playfield plastics. I may just end up having to buy a repro set, if anyone else is looking for plastics and would be interested in going in on a set (depending on what we both need of course) let me know.

Thanks, I am going to try these LED's from comet for the inserts: "ULTIMATE OPTIX - NO GHOST, NO FLICKER, LESS STROBING" http://www.cometpinball.com/category-s/1837.htm and may try a few in the GI to see how they do, and if needed, grab the GI OCD board. appreciate the input.

Will look more closely at the plastics to come up with a map of what i needed.

im assuming my display is on it's way out?

This is my first machine on this particular platform, just wasnt sure if there was anything else to check.

Any recommendations on a replacement? pinscore, xpin, rottendog?

Thanks gents, appreciate the input.

I can pull this up tonight if noone else gets a chance to look.

Makes sense, I will give this a try tonight. I have some time to play with it before I grab a new one (im not in a huge rush, its still playable)

here ya go

fh-cab (resized).jpg

Keep us posted on how it goes, I'd like to do the same one of these days.

Glad I at least tried re-seating the cables b4 buying the new display. Problem has magically disappeared, lol.

have a line on a IPB repro PF for Funhouse. I am told it is from the second run (drilled and dimpled). How would something like this line up with a Mirco quality wise?

I was planning to just buy a Mirco at some point and then just horde it until I was ready to do my restore (no time right now) when this fell in to my lap so to speak.

Just trying to gauge quality as that is my primary concern.

Yeah, mirco made the OEM PF that came in my WOZ and I'm very happy with the finish/quality. But if I can get the IPB PF @ a good enough price I may consider it.

I really dig the art bladez you have in yours. Really goes with the theme.

Welcome!

Gonna start a restore thread? Would love to see.

I will be attempting this at some point as well.

How was the mirco PF? did you have to drill or open up any of the holes? or was it ready to rock and roll?

I am considering picking up one.

Glad you got it working. Santa is bringing me a Mirco FH PF so I'm going to start pulling all the parts together for my own swap. Any tips for someone attempting to do their first swap? (other than label and take a crap ton of pics)

Yeah, I am going to re-decal mine. just havent decided if I should do that first. there is one corner that needs fixin (that I know of) that I assume i can just use some bondo on. It will be a learning experience! (I will create a thread and post here, sure to be entertaining, haha)

Yea I dont have access to a rotisserie (and I dont think I will be doing enough swaps to justify buying one) so I am probably just going to build some sort of simple jig/holder that the PF can easily rest on (on top of a folding table) in a fashion that is easy to flip it. But I have some time to stew, It's realistically going to be mid 2018 that I attempt this. Just too busy right now. I just wanted to get the PF while they were plentiful (have no idea how often Mirco runs these things) and this game is a keeper for me so it's one that I feel I will really enjoy doing.

ok, my Mirco FH PF has arrived. Is there anything in particular I should be looking at or checking other than obvious shipping damage?

Gearing up for my PF swap (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-my-first-restoration-help-me-not-botch-this)

And I am sorting out ramp flaps, one thing that always bugged me when I got my FH is the left steps ramp entrance. The previous owner mylar'd it down for some reason.

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Any chance someone could take a pic of the same spot on thiers so I can compare? No rush.

Thanks for the pic. very helpful.

Did you leave the pops alone? is it a mirco?

Considering where to put mylar on my new PF that I am gearing up to swap

Thanks guys, appreciate the insight.

What do you guys think about pop bumper LED's? Any pics or info to share about your setup?

Debating between just putting an LED bulb in there VS something like a ring

I think you guys should agree to disagree. To each his/her own. I tend to avoid buying stuff overseas for this reason, but being on this side of the pond I don't run into that issue often.

Question: The flashers in the "Rudy Alive" billboard in the back right of the playfield (mounted to the main ramp) are those #906 bulbs? Already closed things up for the night so I'm just being lazy at this point. heh.

Happy to take pics of mine if you still end up needing them.

On another topic, I see you have the LED rings in your pops, any chance you could take a vid of how they look? I am still going back and forth between just putting an LED bulb in there VS a ring.

Yeah its hard to post videos here, easiest is to upload to youtube and then post youtube link here (which is a pain, so if you dont have time its cool)

Appreciate the pic though!

I assume this is it (i googled "ebay mr pinball australia"): ebay.com link: ebay.com

you could then search "funhouse" within the store: ebay.com link: Mr Pinball Australia

Ugh, wish I was far as you guys with my swap. I am still trying to wrap up the lower cab, then the backbox, then apply decals.. then it's on to populating the PF.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-my-first-restoration-help-me-not-botch-this

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Link? I'd be interested in this as well but can't seem to find it. (or do you just have to reach out and ask them)

Awesome, thanks guys

Welcome!

Any chance you can post a video?

From what you were saying (problem solved with Battery change) it seems like it started working again for a while?

Welcome! nice lineup BTW

I'm in the same boat (might have been me that previously posted asking about it). I decided to just get this and cut down to size if needed:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=0500-9851

Send them an email and ask. They were sold out when i tried to get mine but Cliffy gave me the tip to reach out and they ended up selling me a set.

Bout to start populating my new Mirco PF.

Question, after the trap door, where the clear plastic is screwed to the PF.. on the new PF, there are clearly dimples, but no real pilot hole. This ok? or should i drill some?

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Thanks guys, appreciate the input! I will def drill the pilot holes.

Yeah I bought the kit (even though he did not clear the mirco i bought) I also have a diamond burr dremel bit set as well. so my plan is clear the clear (heh) away from the dimples where the holes should be, then drill small pilot holes.

Mostly just the typical pin buying check list. Give the PF a good once over for damage, look at the condition of the boards (any hacks? etc), check for a credit dot, etc.

If it were me, I would be closely looking at the condition of rudy himself, run through the rudy test to make sure all his parts function (mouth opens, eyelids open normal, open wide, his eyes move left and right)

good luck

Yeah good point, the Rudy stuff wasnt meant as a litmus test to buy or not buy, just to make sure you are aware of the condition vs price.

Did you try calling? she didnt respond to my email either.

If anyone has a spare rudy face they would be interested in selling, PM me. thnx )

Mine is a sample game, curious to try this with glass off (gotta tweak some lights any way) and will report back.

I just did mine but first ordered a test batch from comet and tried several options (with pics) you can see more here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-my-first-restoration-help-me-not-botch-this/page/2#post-4159591

Keep reading on that page (so its not lost in the shuffle) I decided to scrap the ultimate optix ones (non-ghosting, etc) and went with the cheaper 2SMD's since I am adding an LED OCD.

I also went with the LED rings, I LOVE THEM! heh. I have not taken pictures yet (just got things back together late last night *yawn*) but I will asap.

Yea I just restored mine and most of the sample features are gone (wide rails, etc), I'm considering figuring out what i need to do to update the boards (update the sound board?) so i can run the latest ROM.

Actually, I have a question. I only did insert and GI LED's, next up, I need to do the backboard/translite switch to LED's. Anyone do this that can share what they did?

Yeah, those are what i ordered from Marco (in stock)

Finally got around to seeing if i could get the Sausage bonus on my sample game, apparently it is in there!

on another side note, just finished my restore (well, the bulk of it). And i am noticing if I hit a fast ball up the ramp when it comes down the right wireform (if it has enough speed, I'd say 50% of the time) it smacks the welded bracket for the switch, bounces off one of the star posts and then continues.

I swear it never did this before but its possible I just wasn't paying attention? Feels like this should be a smooth shot but if the ball is traveling fast I dont see how it could avoid hitting that bracket.

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I will have to check the board, but i started that video about 5 hits to rudy in (so it was a good amount of hits to get there, which explains why i never noticed it, heh)

while i was in tweaking some adjustments, if this helps:

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I noticed the other side did not have this problem, so I just bent this one carefully to match and all is smooth now.

I was told when i picked this thing up that they were repro's that they swapped in a few years back. They polished up real nice though regardless.

I believe so, this is what I got:

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edit: i know i know, i have the "move your battery off the board" kit, gonna install it when i do the LED OCD

Since i am finally getting around to learning this game... What happens when you hit all the STEP targets? I see they go dark and you can start over, but do you just get points? more for each time you complete it?

1. Never seen that myself, but I would check: do you have the right coil installed? (mine was replaced with no color or PN, or I would tell ya what I got) and check the lock mechanism itself, is it oriented correctly? Maybe could use some adjustment? (attaching a pic of mine taken when I was tearing it down)

2. There is a plastic piece that sits on top of the ramp (after the entrance sign), I had the same issue occasionally before rebuilding (there was a crack at the front of the plastic, so I know the ball was bashing it). The entrance itself must not have been smooth enough (maybe adjusting the screws at the entrance flap) in my case. If the ball is catching air when it hits the ramp, you'll have to figure out why.

3. I'm not knowledgeable enough to know (others will) but some how I doubt it.

4. If you loosen the screws holding the scoop on the bottom side, there should be some play to it. Move it slightly and tighten it back up.

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Thats what i was thinking, maybe adjust it slightly clockwise a little bit.

Steps ramp yes, for the main ramp you have to pull the diverter/rod out first.

When I say clockwise, I am looking down at it from the top of the PF (looking at it from where you would be adjusting it, bottom side, it would be counter clockwise). Also, I am purely talking about the shaft that holds the disk with the cutouts, not moving the whole mech.

Attached is a pic illustrating what I am thinking:

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On my original and on my new mirco (i did not have to drill or tweak this hole surprisingly) it was/is held in place by a lock nut.

Edit: hold that, im reviewing my pics. Maybe I did have to drill the one through. Will post both in a sec

looks like i did have to drill out mine as well, see old VS new

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On mine (and my Mirco had holes for it) there is one on the left side to the right of the left shooter lane.

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Mine does a low slow pulse, however, my FH is in a pretty lit room so it doesnt bug. If I played in a dark room I would get the gi ocd or turn that feature off

Mine had the same. I just paid careful attention when remounting that gate (i bent it a little so there was nothing to rub against the side).

On mine i just adjusted that little bracket that trap door comes down on (so on mine, I dont really see it damaging the PF). But no certainly no harm in putting some mylar there. I used low tac mylar basically anywhere the ball drops + rings around the pops. Might be overkill but since it's low tac it comes up easily to replace or remove.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00134DIII

(same stuff I got from Kruzman originally, but one sheet got wet in my garage when I left it out so I tracked it back to this brand via the logo/markings on the back of the sheet)

Some pieces I cut by hand, others I used my wife's cutting plotter (pop rings)

Worked like a charm for me. YMMV

100% yes on the LED OCD board. I bought it but first left it off once I finished my restore, then I popped it in. the difference is night and day. You just install the board in the backbox (it sits between a couple of harnesses and your driver board). You then download some simple software to your laptop/PC, plug the board in and tell it which game it is driving (you can then customize the brightness of each lamp, etc etc if desired. I tweaked a few settings, but not much)

I respect your opinion, but in my case, I specifically went for the bright natural white (not warm). To me it brings out the bright blue colors of the game and PF. Before my restore, the inserts felt dim and washed out. With the right color, bulb and brightness I was able to really make the inserts "pop". I typically was not too in to LED's in the past (they felt too strobey and the wrong type/choice seemed to look unappealing) but the LED OCD (and experimenting with different bulbs/color-temp/brightness) fixed that for me. To each his/her own though.

FWIW: Mine was missing one from the right side as well. I went back and looked at my tear down pics, it was the one that goes right by the diverter. Seemed fine without it (plus it had been working fine before) so I didn't think much of it. If you need pics let me know and I will dig some up.

You're hitting one of the posts on the side of that metal ramp I assume. If the plunger is dead center of the lane, I would look at how it matches up to the ball. On the left side for me, the metal housing that the ball rested against actually had the ball slightly off-center which was contributing to the issue on that side. So I had to bend it slightly to fix it.

So adjust the shooter rod so that your dead center both vertically and horizontally to the ball, and just make sure the ball itself is resting in the right spot. I also played around with a variety of spring tensions until I found the one I liked best.

My repro one was missing that flange too. It was annoying. I ended up just putting some washers under the trap door hinge to level it up.

Wow really? for me I really noticed a change. Instead of the new lights feeling "strobe-y" the ramp up-down is smooth so they feel like incandescent only much brighter.

Only thing I could think of: maybe the ball is hitting the metal flap on the left side and bouncing out the right? I would pull the glass and hold a ball there to see.

Just read through some of the funhouse restoration threads. It's not that bad.

basically, document/take pics of all the wiring

unplug everything from the boards, remove the backbox

remove the boards, remove the metal piece behind the boards

remove the decals (some sand off, other heat-and-peel (or scrape)) heat and peel worked great for me.

sand sand sand, bondo, more sanding, more bondo, more sanding.

primer it, paint it, decal it.

put everything back together )

tough one. Mine works as you noted (coming out of the scoop it will dead bounce off the right over to the left and I can cradle it). However, a friend also has one (with the same Mirco repro PF) and I cannot do the same dead-bounce-right-to-left-cradle. It's gonna either be one of two things: 1. velocity, 2. angle. You'd have to really look at the other one to see how yours is different.

If you think its velocity, when you did the restore, did you change that coils sleeve? clean it? new spring?

if you think its angle, i assume just loosening the scoop and giving it a slight tweak might do the trick (even the smallest twist could make a diff)

This past weekend I decided to use some extra LED's (and sockets) from my restore and light up the scoops and trap door. I think it came out pretty nice. Just adds a little polish.

Blue LED for the scoop
Red LED for the trap door
Orange/Amber for the mirror scoop/shot

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no worries, copy away.

when i did the rings I started with hot glue but apparently not enough. one came loose (but did not short thankfully) and I had to re-do it. I'm glad I did though, love the LED rings for the pops.

I got mine from PDI, but looks like they are out of stock. If BAA doesnt have any, you could buy these (the caps with the decals included):

ebay.com link: Williams Funhouse Pinball Machine Bumper Cap Set With Decals Free Shipping New

GL

My experience was different. I did my swap last year with a new Mirco PF for my FH. I think there was one hole missing, a few dimples on the back side off. All and all, not a bad experience for my first swap. Cliffys are a must regardless, and just like any stern PF, if you have a spot that airballs, it will dimple top side. YMMV

if your going to route it, unless the PF is destroyed (or your looking to put top quality games on your route) I would clean up the PF as best you can, do touch ups where needed and spot clear (or mylar) over it.

http://ledocd.com/

No disrespect intended. I'm sorry to hear you had so much trouble with your swap. Had I gone through the same I would be pissed as well.

My only point is that not everyone has had the same experience as you.

My WOZ that i have had going on 4+ years has been flawless and that is a Mirco PF. My FH that I bought about a year ago (and swapped in last year) has held up fantastic.

My understanding of the POTC issue is not the PF clear, but the cheap posts with a sharp lip that were wrenched down too tight.

To each his/her own. Going to go play a game of FH now

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