FunHouse
Williams, 1990You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Zee.
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For comparison -
My FH restoration cabinet innards from back in the day (2001). Wish I would have painted the bare MDF like you did, but in semi-gloss black.
DSC00630 (resized).JPGDSC00631 (resized).JPGDSC00644 (resized).JPGDSC00646 (resized).JPGDSC00648 (resized).JPGDSC00627 (resized).JPGQuoted from killerrobots:Yeah I like that it is all painted on the inside. I would have liked to have kept the bottom wood but it was so stained that I couldn't see being able to sand it clean enough. I also rolled it with a foam roller so it has a slight orange peel up close. I would liked to have sprayed it but it is a pain to get that all set up in my garage so I decided to roll. I have mini-paint booth setup which works for smaller things like the playfield but is too small for an entire cabinet.[quoted image]
When I need a spray booth, I set up one garage bay for the purpose with roll-down plastic walls. When done, I roll them back up and tie them in place.
20200704_105325 (resized).jpg20200704_105346 (resized).jpg20200704_105352 (resized).jpg20200704_105424 (resized).jpg20200704_105554 (resized).jpgQuoted from killerrobots:In the past I have done the same but it is a pain and ties up the garage for weeks (my wife's sides...). My set up works great for playfields and I can keep it up all the time (the plastic rolls up and clips to the top). It has filtered air in a down draft that keeps fumes away from my face. However I don't think it is robust enough for a full HPLV setup but it does work for the 2k in a can just fine.
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What's this "2k in a can" you mentioned?
Quoted from pinballinreno:Spraymax 2k glamour coat.
Oh that's interesting! Sort of a small quantity catalyzed clear.
Quoted from killerrobots:I haven't played a Funhouse is years as there isn't a local one but it is my wife's childhood favorite and I love games of this era. So I got this one but it was in pretty poor condition and I only played one game before stripping it down. Anyway I was was confused by yzfguy's comment, I was like, why is he unhappy with me. It just clicked that is what Rudy's says....
Rudy's best comment is when he's in "silly mode"* and you miss the steps ramp shot: "So who's the dummy?"
* multi-player game, the player addressed as "Slick"
Quoted from AlexRogan84:Same here! How does he get into this silly mode? A few misses in a row??
He's always in silly mode if the player up is "Slick". Strange things happen at random for that player. Because it's random, you might not notice anything unusual in many plays. But then some off-the-wall comment from Rudy is heard for that player...it's great!
Quoted from Cheeks:OK, I'm an idiot. I was measuring for DC, but it should have been AC from the transformer. At connector 501 I am getting 20VAC, and I'm getting 5VDC from the CPU. Fuses test fine, and I do not have a sound overlay board.
Sorry to be such a pain with this, but if my speaker circuit tests fine, and the sound board is getting proper power, it would seem the issue is somewhere on the sound board. But it seems unlikely I would have the same issue on 2 sound boards, one was confirmed good when it was removed a while back.
Just to confirm, you are commanding the game to produce sounds, correct? Like in the tests menu, music tests?
Quoted from AlexRogan84:Could someone share a picture or two of a well set-up steps gate actuator?
Here are a couple; before and after game rebuilding.
DSC01706 (resized).JPGbottom8_2 (resized).jpgQuoted from AlexRogan84:Right on, thanks.
On that second photo, you can see a small yellow presumably rubber sleeve over the end of the little peg that inserts into the bracket there. Is that factory? Or added afterwards? I don't have one of those on my game. Looks like it would take up some of that unnecessary slop in the movement.[quoted image]
Regarding the sleeve: I think that was a piece of yellow heat-shrink tubing I put on there to take out the slop. That was 20 years ago so I'd forgotten about it!
The gate still works perfectly after hundreds of games so I can declare it a good modification.
Quoted from paynemic:There’s a post for the left shooter lane on the right side. Does everyone have a sleeve on that? Mine is tripping up my skillshot over there every time. I got new rubbers and can’t remember if had one on there before.
I shaved mine flat on the ball lane side and glued it onto the post so it does not rotate.
DSC00739 (resized).JPGQuoted from jim5six:New club member here! Wanted a funhouse for many years and am very happy to have one now. I've had it a couple weeks and just finished a teardown/clean/shop/restore job. Looks good to me. It was a reimport once in its life so I still need a US coin door. But for the most part its good to go.
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-Jim
Congrats, nice machine. You might consider getting rid of that giant plastic on top of the ramp and replacing it with a simple ball guide as shown below. Really cleans up the appearance and provides better visibility.
Deflector2 (resized).pngDeflectorScan (resized).jpgdeflector2 (resized).jpgdeflector3 (resized).jpg
Quoted from yzfguy:I think is prefer it factory, but do you have a pic of the playfield with that setup for comparison?
PFfull1 (resized).jpgQuoted from yzfguy:If you have or sell any of those deflectors and/or that support, I'd be a buyer
I will have a look in my parts archive...
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Some people add a clearcoat as a final step. I'd definitely do that if I was going the Radcals route.
The Radcals product looks like reverse-printed artwork on the back of polycarbonate plastic - correct? If so, no clearcoating would be needed.
Quoted from Completist:Brought this into the shop last night. Gonna tear the top side down and see how far i want to go with it over the holidays.
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Is the head from a different machine, or just painted black?
Quoted from TheOnlyest:So, this is a $3500 Funhouse now?!!?!?!!?
I'm SO done with this hobby....
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Flood victim?
And yeah I agree it takes way too much $$ to be in the hobby anymore. Hopefully it will calm down but historically the trend has been nothing but upward.
Quoted from pinballinreno:It may not be available for funouse.
But a very similar sized piece can probably be found from another game that could be used effectively.
With a little modification.
Or make one/have it made.
Quoted from monkfe:question on the steel rod at the back of Rudy's head.. I need the exact diameter as I need to replace it. I thought it was 1/8 in, however I went and found some 1/8 steel rod and it won't even fit into the hole on the bracket...can someone measure theirs...I'm guessing 3/32...hobby shop to buy I'm guessing? tx...
SST welding rod is my go-to solution for things like this and ball gates.
Quoted from AlexRogan84:What made me ask... sort of... is that I have four similarly aged games and only two of them do the attract sounds. My Getaway does attract sounds and so does my Diner. Both of these have it in the settings to turn the attract sounds on or off.
The weird one is my Party Zone though. It has the option in the settings to turn on attract sounds and yet it doesn't make a peep either. So no attract sounds from Funhouse, which seems to jive with there being no setting for it in the menus... yet Party Zone should be making attract sounds because the setting is set to on and yet it doesn't make any.
Go figure!
Bram Stoker's Dracula has the option but only makes sound in attract mode rarely. Scares the hell out of me every time!
Quoted from LitzDoc:Does Funhouse have a wizard mode? I am starting to get some decent scores, for me, 22Million, 25Million on factory settings.
I am wondering if there are any tricks to getting higher scores and entering the wizard mode? I have gotten to the Frenzy mode a few times which is a blast. Thanks
The closest thing would be completing all the modes on the mirror and getting "Super Frenzy" where all targets score 100k (I think).
A second to that would be completing the clock and getting the usual multiball mode, then getting jackpots by shooting the trap door and main ramp repeatedly. This is also how to really amp up your score.
Quoted from bsbdmd83:Hopefully someone else has had this isue and can help. Working on my first Funhouse. Rudys mouth was intermittently opening and closing both in gam and in test. Replaced the motor and that seems to have corrected the intermittent problem, however ( and this has been an issue since I got the machine), sometimes when the mouth is supposed to open formthe million shot or whatever, it only opens part way and leaves a small part still closed to make in not possible to make the shot. A slight tap on the mouth will set it down but its a real pain during play. I checked for binding of the jaw around the wooden cutout but nothing seems to be hittind. Anyone else faced this and have a suggestion.
Thanks in advance.
Check for missing teeth on the sector gear, and alignment of the gears.
Quoted from bsbdmd83:I see the board listed. Not sure how this board interacts with rudy. The motor attaches to the high driver board. The opto board impacts the jaw movement? Sorry first time working on a funhouse- just learning it. Also I was trying to explain replacing the gears are reassembly. The black gear is self explanatory, the white gear in relation to the black at reassembly would be helpful.
Observe the gears in operation during a game. Are they binding (not enough clearance)? If not, the driver board may have a problem. The capacitor next to the inductor coils...
Quoted from nerdygrrl:You can't beat their quality.
Indeed, on my machine I have a set of their Funhouse vinyl cabinet art from 20 years ago still going strong and looking perfect.
Quoted from Markharris2000:...some breaks or bad solder joints are WAY more hard to spot...)
M
Oh yeah, like when they break in the middle of a bundle, INSIDE the insulation - sheesh.
Quoted from pinballinreno:If you have ever pulled out all the harnesses for cleaning you would be amazed as to how many cracks and bare wire are in the insulation.
In a dark room you might see arcing in the harness on older games.
Yes, this is why I build my own harnesses if I'm doing a total rebuild.
bottom8_2 (resized).jpgQuoted from pinheadpierre:I am rebuilding my trapdoor and just realized that my old acrylic flap has the sticker on the underside whereas the new sticker is made to go on top of the acrylic. I prefer stickers to be under ramps and flaps in general to avoid west and tear on the art. I have good optically invisible adhesive from that I could use to mount it underneath but might not bother if the stickers hold up well when placed on top.
Does anyone here have enough hours on a top mounted repro sticker to have an opinion about this?
Scan the sticker into your computer before you install it. Then you can print one later and affix it to the underside of the plastic.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Great minds think alike. I like to scan stickers just in case I screw it up. I sheet out the sticker under the plastic. When I did, it occurred to me that the adhesive on the underside of the sticker could be used to stick it to the metal plate underneath - same effect.
Haha great! BTW I like the Angus Scrimm on your avatar - he was awesome.
Quoted from zerbam:DRAWN UP IN SOLIDWORKS SHEET METAL
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That's great! Thank you for sharing.
Quoted from BillPinball:Hey All
Could anyone do me a big favor and snap a pic of the Trap Door Switch? I just need to double check I have the right switch and wiring.
Thanks
You kind kind-of see the trap door mech in this photo.
_DSC0296 (resized).JPGQuoted from JoeJet:Hi, finally moving forward again on my 9 year! Funhouse restoration (long story).
Just ran into this issue with the trap door plastic. So my new playfield 3 holes somewhat align with the clear plastic but the plastic is no where close to the trap door hinge bolts. At first thought it was my plastic but the old plastic from the original game has the machined edge snapped off and it seems to match my new plastic.
So question is, do I try to keep the part that goes under the hinge by adding/widening holes in the plastic or should I snap it off and not worry about that part? Thanks!
First pic is the old plastic on new playfield, next two are the new one. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
You might want to bevel the edge of the plastic to smooth the transition. And yes, at the other end the plastic does go under the trap door hinge.
DSC02771 (resized).JPGQuoted from JoeJet:One more question for the night.
In this area - anyone know what goes here?
The ramp lands here and my pics only show it installed so don’t see what’s under it and my old playfield has a larger hole.
(That’s an old ramp I am replacing!)[quoted image][quoted image]
Mine has a post there that supports the main ramp and switch gate. Here are photos from the teardown (22 years ago):
DSC01678 (resized).JPGDSC01683 (resized).JPGQuoted from AlexRogan84:Was wondering if someone could confirm for me which bumper post is supposed to be used on the shooter lane? This is the short section on the right side that holds two 2" rubber rings. Beside the pop bumpers. I see a few different double bumper posts in the manual, but doesn't specify which ones go where.
I am looking at 02-4423 and 02-4493 and then also listed are 02-4424-1 and 02-4424-2, except the image on Marco when you pull those up doesn't show them as being suitable for the double rubber rings.
The bottom thread into the playfield is 8-32 and is secured with a nut. The top looks to be either a 6-32 thread or 8-32, again, not sure which to use. Thanks!
Double ring posts with 6-32 stud on top. You can kind of see them on this teardown photo from 2001.
DSC01695 (resized).JPGhttps://www.hansonrivet.com/rivets/tubular-rivets/
You want the 1/8" diameter ones, oval head, nickel-plated brass.
And a roll clincher tool like this:
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/RapcoBrake.php
Quoted from thechakapakuni2:Correct. As mention, Indiana Jones has a setting which allows you to clear the idol lock after every game. It just keeps the games consistent. Was hoping Funhouse had this setting as well. I went through the adjustments and didn’t see anything obvious. Might not be an option
I think the only thing that comes close is tournament mode.
Quoted from acidburn:Yes latest game roms. I believe there was only a single release of audio roms.
The only other thing I can think of is that my audio roms chips are failing with age.
My MPU board is a rottendog not sure if that matters.
I get this too sometimes. I think it's an undocumented bug in L9
Quoted from pinheadpierre:I had all but forgotten about Ratt. Please don’t remind us of such atrocities. Musical war crimes are best forgotten.
The one that got me with Ratt was their video for "Round and Round" with Milton Berle in drag(!). A definite 80s WTF moment.
Quoted from radiomoz:I just did a playfield swap. Totally misplaced the plug that goes to the back of the mirrror. Anyone has a pic of where it comes from ?
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The socket for the mirror connector pops out of the lamp harness under the playfield near the upper flipper. See attached photo.
MysteryMirrorPlug (resized).JPGQuoted from wrd1972:Not trying to be combative or an asshole.
But do you believe your statement applies here? With respect, there is nothing clear and accurate here.
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Yeah bad batches do occur. I paid a bundle for some NOS plastics for Jokerz years ago and they were unusable due to bad printing.
badnos (resized).jpgQuoted from hawkeyexx:Yes at some point I'm buying new decals. I just wanted to touch up the head. Awesome idea to match the decals. I'm in the process of replacing and repairing things to get it to 100 percent working.
Image from earlier in this chat attached...
FunhouseBluePaintMix2 (resized).jpgQuoted from ChrisHibler:Lodi boards are being boxed up.
Check out the video...
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Cheap-Ass Rec.Games.Pinball number 31! Glad to see you are still active, and yeah that's a great testbed.
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Haledon, NJ