FunHouse
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Hi all!
I'm having an issue recently where the trap door kicks way high and bounces off the lamp (and closes). If I put my finger between the door and the lamp it will stop at my finger and stay open. I've seen the 'help' regarding the tab underneath that can get bent, but I'm not sure that is the issue here. I'm not really sure where to start -- could this a voltage issue making the 'kick' stronger?
Quoted from Zennmaster:Do the Sample games' ROMs have the Sausage Bonus? Or is that strictly a feature of the production ROMs?
I can't find a video of this. Does he say anything specific or anything specific on the display? I've never run into this bonus that I'm aware of. I believe mine has the sample rom as mine is a frankenfunhouse. I'll doublecheck and test it tonight, but I'm not sure what I'm looking for.
Quoted from Zennmaster:The Sausage Bonus is awarded after a number of Rudy hits (I think it starts at 6, and maxes out at 12). The number gets reset when the high scores are reset, and then get incremented each time the bonus is awarded. Rudy says "You big sausage", and the player gets a million points.
Is this different than the "Million" reward where he says "Million" after hitting him so many times (3x?)? I know for certain I've never hear him say "you big sausage".
Did a bit of digging as it's been many years since I've looked into it. Mine is P-6 / PA-1 The game says Rev P-6 and Sy. .90 - 11-5-90. Mine is unique in many ways as it is the first off the line non sample/non proto. I think they took leftover spare parts to make this one as I have a mix of old and new. Sys-11 soundboard, widerails, L.S. Topcoat instead of diamond plating (similar) and a few other things I probably haven't found. It is also signed by Pat Lawlor under the cabinet (that was quite the surprise to find!).
Quoted from arcadenerd925:Actually, I have a question. I only did insert and GI LED's, next up, I need to do the backboard/translite switch to LED's. Anyone do this that can share what they did?
Every backbox led change I've seen on funhouse looks bad. I would say if you are intent on doing it, make sure to diffuse them so they aren't so spotlighted.
Quoted from Elicash:Guys, in the middle of my restoration. Anyone know where i can buy these nylon sleeves that are all over the top of the playfield?
[quoted image]
Marcos carries them but is OOS.
This place appears to have them in stock.
http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MX-8371
I am guessing Pinball Resource probably also has them.
Quoted from Zennmaster:Here's a video of the Sausage Bonus, although the callout appears to get interrupted. It's also followed by a bunch of what sounds like machine gun fire. It's one of those kooky things that I'll be disappointed not to have. It sounds like it's similar to the bonus you're describing, but with a different callout.
So far, it seems nobody with a Sample ROM has seen this feature, although the sound samples appear to be there. I'm now curious to see what kind of ROM hack might be possible. I realize, though, how small the potential audience is, so I doubt there is much value beyond the fun factor of actually doing it.
Your machine definitely sounds like it's something special!
Actually if you watch a bit longer, it says the "Million" line after some other hits. Guess I'll have to try a force to see if I see it.
Quoted from arcadenerd925:Finally got around to seeing if i could get the Sausage bonus on my sample game, apparently it is in there!
What version do you have? I just tried it on mine and did it about 50 times and he never does it.
I get:
Ow
This is really starting to annoy me
That was no accident
Big Deal
What did I ever do to you
Stop it!
The first 5 are kind of random starting with Ow!, and then finally Stop it! seems to be at the same point the You Big Sausage is each time.
I have the batteries out of mine - getting ready to mod for nvram. I'll have to see if there is maybe some setting in the audits that maybe controls this.
Also...I never realized that was an opto. I thought it worked like a target switch on the lip 
Quoted from Zennmaster:A bit of an educated guess: The way I understand it, the threshold for the Sausage Bonus starts at 9 hits, then increments each time it is awarded. This is reset when the high scores are reset. In other words: after a fresh reset, the first player to hit it gets it at 9, the next player at 10, etc. If your batteries are out, it may be the case that the game can't read or update the value, so it skips it. I dunno, like I said, educated guess.
Congrats on the NVRAM mod, by the way, that's a worthy upgrade!
Interesting. I'll keep that in mind and try it again once it's done. It's more of a curiosity than anything. And yea, I just did my other 4 pins with nvrams. Saved this one for last since it will be the hardest.
Quoted from arcadenerd925:while i was in tweaking some adjustments, if this helps:
[quoted image][quoted image]
My guess is that there are some versions out there that don't have it. I'm also curious if yours is really a sample or if someone changed the ROMS. I say this because of what I know about mine and it's production timing. It was the first one run to be sold..not a proto or sample and my serial number is lower than yours. I get this feeling that they may have had a bunch of leftover chips laying around and just threw in what was available early in the runs. I know for a fact they did that early in the production cycle with other odd parts as I had asked Pat Lawlor about it years ago due to how mine didn't match proto's or production machines.
Quoted from arcadenerd925:I believe so, this is what I got:
[quoted image]
edit: i know i know, i have the "move your battery off the board" kit, gonna install it when i do the LED OCD
I don't know the boards by the looks, but I think if you have the system 11 (proto/sample) board you will have a volume knob on the left inside cabinet to adjust the volume, and your internal volume adjustment (in settings) doesn't actually do anything when you move it up and down.
Quoted from Squeakman:So the sample roms have the "you big Sausage'? I have sample game 71 and he doesn't say it. I also have the bridge between the WPC and system 11 sound board setup. I must have an updated rom? Or am I completely off on this? This whole thing is very interesting to me. I am curious why they decided to do away with it?
I think what it means is that the sample sound roms have the sound clip, but the sample game roms do not have the trigger for the bonus/sound clip. He's saying you can actually upgrade the game rom without issue which should get you the sausage bonus, but you cannot upgrade the sound rom (which in this case shouldn't matter for this specific item).
correct me if I'm not stating this correctly.
Quoted from kermit24:No responses if anyone has Funhouse on location? I am thinking I will price it at $.50 straight up. I'll have a DBA in there also.
I think that's more than fair. These $1+ machines make me cringe.
Quoted from kermit24:Isn't that Road Show? Funhouse remastered would be cool. I bet Zen will make some crazy digital add-on like they are doing with the first table pack for Williams.
I absolutely love Funhouse, but I never really cared for Road Show. Can't really say why that is.
Quoted from lordloss:The more I look into it, actually 7. Needed or my next project.
[quoted image]
Could you take a sideways pic of that step section? Is it supposed to be open? As in the ball can get out there? Or is that area supposed to be closed off? Mine has always had an open spot there that occasionally the ball will come out of rather than going up the steps.
Quoted from HighVoltage:Doing final go-through on the Funhouse I picked up. There is an unconnected 3-pin molex under the playfield by the white / top-right pop bumper. I identified that it is the same as the GI used on the backbox for Rudy, and meter verifies that. I'm guessing there's supposed to be a spotlight on Rudy's face in sync with the backbox? Can someone tell me where it mounts and with what hardware / hex post? Or is it something else?
Do you have the lamp over the trapdoor?
https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3129/2479920274_b527a61571_z.jpg?zz=1
Quoted from HighVoltage:Yes, that's what is missing, thanks. It doesn't look that effective though: I think I can do better lighting the whole face with a spot on the plastic behind the red pop.
It does actually light up that area pretty well. It's mostly for midnight mode though when the rest of the playfield is dimmed.
For those who have replaced the GI with LED's how do they handle midnight mode? They dim pretty low during this phase. It looks like they either flash really quickly on/off or they lower the voltage? Do the LED's actually dim in some manner? I would think these would not work correctly.
Quoted from Davi:You need GI OCD board, otherwise dim doesn't work.
Thanks.
Just my opinion but I don't think LED's look good on this game. Granted the one I saw in person had those bright white ones. Maybe the comet sunlight ones would look better. Everyone is obsessed currently with replacing all bulbs with LEDS but normal home use most people aren't leaving the machine on for days at a time so the long term issues you would see on a routed table with normal incandescents (#47's and #555) really isn't an issue at all. Some machines should simply not have LED's.
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:I am in the process of restoring my funhouse, and I believe I may be missing a hex spacer. In particular, one of the spacers that attached to the playfield rail on the right side of the playfield that the main ramp attaches to. Could some one measure the spacers and tell me how long they are? I also have not found the hex spacers with the bases available for sale anywhere. Does anyone have a source for them?
Could you post a picture (or take one) of the area you are talking about?
Quoted from Junior:Can anyone tell me the purpose of this plastic which is screwed to the playfield behind the trap door ?
Thanks.
[quoted image]
I believe it is there is to level out the area from the trap door so that if the ball rolls back it doesn't get stuck on the door. That looks like it is missing a piece on the right side that has holes for the flap/hinge to connect to.
Quoted from nwpinball:Thank you! Any opinions on the CPR Funhouse backglasses? The deluxe version is sold out, there are 2 versions at $200, non-mirrored budget or faux mirrored. What's faux mirrored? My translite is pretty see through and faded, if I'm picking up plastics, I think I'll pick up a backglass and combine the shipping.
They haven't put the mirrored version up for sale yet. I personally am holding out for that one. I can't speak to the differences in the other 2 but my assumption is the mirrored version will be similar to the old school painted/mirrored backglasses....like Xenon, etc. At least that is my hope.
Quoted from AAAAA:New to the club, having a problem with my FH.
When the third ball gets trapped at the top of the playfield, it just sits there. It doesn't get released, until of the game detects no activity and the solenoids cycle and then all three get flushed and it goes back to 11:30.
I thought this one was a switch adjustment or a bad switch, I've been tweaking the switch (unsuccessfully) but then I noticed that when the trap door is open and a ball goes down, it triggers the Superdog (not the trapdoor bonus).
Now I'm beginning to think there's a ROM issue.
I have made no changes to the game in months (aside from tweaking the switch for the third ball issue mentioned above).
Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
Scott
n/m I misread.
1) have L3 firmware. I see a L9 version but also remarks on different settings jumpers needed? I have access to a programmer, just a matter of burning EPROMs and nothing else needed? Is it worthwhile to update?
L5 is probably the biggest jump. Whether you want to mess with it or not is up to you. There are some docs out there that detail differences in the ROMS.
2) have not played Fh much. What is expected in action from Rudy? Mouth moves when talking. Eyelid and eyes move during multiball. Eyelid is half open during normal gameplay.
Rudy's eyes should mostly follow the ball during normal mode (you have to actually hit targets and such for him to know where you are).
If you hit him in the mouth, his eyelids should open wide in surprise
He should randomly talk to you as you play and certain gameplay triggers.
If you get to midnight and lock both balls, he should go to sleep and his eyes should shut and mouth stay open.
Quoted from zerbam:I am still looking for a set of Ted's or Rudy's eyeballs and the white crank piece to move them right and left..........anyone?
Seems like something someone would be making 3D printed versions of by now.
What's worked best for me is to post a wanted ad on the market of the parts you are looking for. Have been pretty successful doing that.
Quoted from Scoot:Always thought this looked amazing. Not mine.[quoted image]
I actually like this one, but I would expect to hear things more like Chucky come out of his mouth...a bit more sinister and growly.
Quoted from CLEllison:I think the airbrushed Rudy is amazing. When you turn Rudy into a clown - he wasn't originally portrayed as a killer clown so the artwork of Rudy and the theme itself no longer makes sense.
I think adding mods (LED's and pinblades/artwork) makes the game look newer and attracts more people to want to play it especially if you have several pins that are super bright (old Williams VS a new JJP) for instance. The old machines visually pale in comparison.
I installed super bright LED's and the GIOCD and LEDOCD boards - wow does that look fantastic and natural
I also installed 4+1 tower super bright warm white in the back box so the artwork doesn't look yellow and for the cherry on top replaced all flasher bulbs in back box with quick changing color LED's. It looks so nice.
I know LED's don't photo well, but pics?
Hmmmmmmmmm.....I feel like this could be done.
EDIT: ahh, I see. They made a board rather than using the addressable LED's.
I must say this it's a pretty sweet effect, however, I'm thinking addressible LED's and a arduino/pi could accomplish the same thing for far cheaper.
It is pretty damn cool. The additional colored LED's were a surprise. The price I understand sounds high, but pretty much most mods are made in small quantities and pricey. This is actually pretty advanced as far as mods go. Yes, people could take it as inspiration and make their own cheaper. To be honest, I find this much more interesting than the colored DMD's everyone goes on about.
As for the F, for those that don't own one, if you look at the translite, the F does not have 'lights' on the slash so adding LED's there would not look right.
Now I'm torn..I was considering the mirrored backglass, but I believe those 'lights' are mirrored, so this wouldn't work with it. Might be something to investigate.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Thats ok, I see the issue at hand.
What is the current setup for burning my own ROMs?
I can do it, I just havent needed to.
Before you do...make sure you don't have an early game. If you have a system 11 sound you may not be able to use the later roms.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I have the later sound board so I should be ok.
I also moved the jumper wire on the cpu board to allow for the higher capacity ROMs.
so now I need an eprom burner/eraser and some eproms.
What should I get? What is the easiest to use at the best price?
sending you a pm.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Sure, incandescents just warp and kill the plastics, fade out the artwork and buckle the GI circuit after killing the driver board.
But put in old bulbs if you wish, its your game.
I would never put regular bulbs in any game that i could put leds.
The games are getting too expensive to throw away the plastics and playfields, just to use #44 original bulbs.
Even much dimmer #47 bulbs dont solve the problem.
LEDs and ledocd with giocd all the way.
You dont even have to think, 2smd frosted sunlight color for everything.
Looks just like a new #44 bulb.
Games look amazing!
No disrespect, but this really isn't true unless you are leaving your games on for countless hours. I've had incandescent in my machines for 20+ years. They are fine. I'm not sure how an issue that came from 'arcades have them on 12+ hours a day every day' somehow made it into the average home owners mind. Most people aren't leaving their games on a fraction of that. I do agree that the hotter ones should be replaced with the less hot ones. (I forget which is which at the moment).
I did have an opportunity to play a local pinsiders restored FH with all LED's and it was certainly bright. For me it's just a matter of taste. I prefer the retro look. I have replaced some of my sci-fi themed games with LED's though and think they look great.
Quoted from rmerlo88:There’s a new MOD out guys!!!
[quoted image]
and like most he's not wearing it right! Ohhh Ruudyy ba ba baaaaaa
I installed an NVRAM on all my machines awhile ago, I will tell you THIS board is not for feint of heart or inexperienced solderers because the traces are very small and close. Even with my decades of experience I had some trouble with this one. You'll need a magnifier and plenty of light and patience.
Early games had one type of print and later had another as well (one was decals, one was screen print...I 'think' early were decals from what I can tell from mine). Don't quote me on this though.
So, a few nights ago on mine, the top display went out. Both screens had been garbled the last time I played it and it seemed like a lose cable at the time as a quick shake fixed it. Since only the top went out and it didn't fade, I don't think it's gassed out. I swapped the cable out, did some rudimentary troubleshooting and didn't find anything that made it work.
I haven't dug out the schematics yet, but I see there are 2 caps on the display board, my assumption is that one goes to each display? Trying to fix it might have to wait as I'm in the middle of a remodel and I don't feel like it right now lol. I thought about just getting an LED screen, but I am concerned that the issue isn't the screen but something further back.
Quoted from HEAD_boss_HOG:I think you hit the nail on the head. they are Pricey!! dang, i guess I'm just priced out. someday when i have more cash, i may just pull the trigger and bite the bullet on this great game. seems the good Funhouse games are all around 5500 bucks! thats almost a brand new pinball machine price.
Most of the ones you see listed here are completely restored...and many have more money put into them than what they are asking.
Quoted from CLEllison:The problem you'll run into is if the playfield hasn't been swapped it'll likely be hammered to hell and the clock inserts will all be raised from heat. Just not fun to play that way.
Comparing price from old to new - the newer pin price is because they aren't hard to find and it definitely doesn't mean they are more fun to play.
Trust me when I say spend more money and buy one with the play field already replaced.
Is that common? Mine has none of that. It only has a bit of paint missing in the normal out kick spot, and a bit of crazing, otherwise it's in great shape...and it was a routed machine.
Thank you for the advice
I will make that replaced pf a strict requirement in my search.">If you are expecting a new pf, you are going to always be looking at high prices. Anyone who had that done knows what it is worth. His comment about pf's is exaggerated. Just make sure to examine them and base the price on it's condition and what kind of work it needs.
Quoted from brado426:Hey Funhouse owners.... Has anyone else had this problem? I've never personally seen another Funhouse machine with this issue and I've had this issue for more than 12 years since I first got my Funhouse.
No matter how I position the ramp or level the machine, I still get this problem... the ball bounces out of the steps lane when it drops about 50% of the time. It is super annoying! I'd really appreciate some ideas of what might fix it.
Thanks in advance!
Brad O.
It's the pad at the end of the ramp. It's bouncing. Remove that and yoru problem should be solved. Mine has never had that pad and is fine and works as expected - since '96. Additionally, the rubber around the post below is normally an issue as well unless you have a super slim rubber on it. On many that will cause the plunger shot to bounce off that post but can also cause bouncing when dropping from the ramp.
Quoted from brado426:You guys got my hopes up... really sounded like those suggestions would work. Removed the blue pad at the end of the ramp and the black sleeve over the post. I thought for sure that would fix it.... yet it is still doing it just the same as ever. WTH? All I can think is my ramps are bent or not positioned right.. although even when I try them in different positions, it still seems to be a problem. Maybe the problem is the black plate that the ball lands on... maybe it is unlevel or something. Will have to do some more experimenting. I can't believe how hard this problem has been to solve. Thanks for all your suggestions though. I'll let you guys know if I ever solve it. I know other Funhouse machines never seem to do it.
Brad O.
As asked, is your pf level?
But, I think I spotted a potential issue. The ramp flap should have 2 rivets and 2 screws, you are missing the left screw which...I suppose could be causing the flap to tilt to the right and cause your issue. Just a possibility.
I wonder if at one point they were going to put a gate there where if you missed the ramp shot (undershot) it would dump the ball out into the lane rather than back to the plunger. The design itself is rather odd that the rail doesn't go clear up to that post.
It's not a standard peg. I really don't think it was the original design. When I got #1 it had never had rubbers changed on it. There wasn't one on it. When I changed the rubbers and added one to it it caused havoc on that plunge so I removed it.
As I mentioned, I think originally it was supposed to be something else. I'd be curious what some sample and proto games have there.
Anyone know what color the flipper buttons are supposed to be? I just noticed mine has a white one and a red one. I believe yellow is the normal color, but some pics out there I do see both white and red. Wonder if it was random...
Okay, my displays finally gave out on me so I ordered an Xpin replacement display. I must say, I'm a bit underwhelmed by the 'instructions' here. It's supposed to be plug and play but 2 things.
First, it doesn't come with anything to attach to the speaker panel and the existing standoffs do not fit the new board.
Secondly, I'm not sure which cable I'm supposed to use to power it. It just has a 3 prong (2 live) connection marked J101 which doesn't correspond with anything existing on the current display or driver board. Does this thing take 5v or 12v? I 'think' I know which connector should go to it and I can meter out the existing connections but that seems kind of missing the mark on 'plug and play'.
Anyone put one of these in a Funhouse and have an idea?
EDIT: Found the 5v and took a chance and it is working, however it has ghosting characters and makes the speakers hum like crazy. Guess I'm going to need to talk to support.
Yeah, I had already looked at it, and it is practically useless for what I was asking. It's basically a copy/paste of all of their instructions. I figured it out though.
Quoted from pinballinreno:My colorDMD LED version also creates a hum in the speakers on my DW.
My LEDOCD board also makes a hum in the speakers.
I think its the LED's in general making the noise. Maybe there is a choke or filter for this.
I put a Pinscore display on my Funhouse its pretty quiet.
Interesting. I have a few rottondogs on others and don't have this issue. But regardless this display has issues beside that, so I'll see what they say.
Okay so I've been talking to Brett at Xpin and he thinks the issues on the display are low 5v. I'm getting 4.79/4.8 on the display regardless of brightness, and all the way back to C9 I'm seeing 4.8VDC and 10VAC. Anyone know what J101 Pins 1 and 2 are supposed to be? I'm getting 8.4VAC. There isn't an easy way to check C5 or BR2 without taking the board out. I would think 4.79VDC would be good enough, but...who knows.
As an update to this display issue. Brett had sent me another display and it had the same ghosting. He suggested replacing all the large caps. I replaced the caps and still saw the issue. Have to turn the brightness down to just below half way to get the ghosting to stop.
Now here is where it gets weird. Because mine is so old it was running the L-1 rom. Having read another thread about someone swapping the L6 while keeping the PA-1 sound chips, I had decided to try throwing an L-5 in. So after I did my display test, I swapped out the U6 to the L-5. When I turned the game on, no more ghosting. The display will ghost just a little when it is set to the very highest brightness, but that is it. Just nudge it down a tad and it goes away. Voltages did not change.
Scratching my head on this one.
I finally updated my PA-1 to L-5 a few weeks ago and while the few additions are nice (I've noticed a few new sayings), I was really disappointed in the grand champion lightshow! What once was an awesome display is now nothing more than just the clock going in and out. I assume later versions restored this to it's former glory. So now I'm torn. I never had any issues with PA-1 really, but knew I was missing a few items. I can't go higher than L-5 due to the old style sound.
I like the original look better too. I was very disappointed that mine gassed out as I've been keeping it original. But...life goes on. I got an Xpin and I like it...segments are not overly in your face. I have not put the filter on.
I still run incandescent in most of my older games. I just prefer the asthetics. Heat from those is not really a concern in home ownership - unless you are keeping your machines on all the time.
Quoted from brado426:Looks like the incandescent ones are outrageously priced now. I see a box of 10 for $30. It seems there are alternative LED blinkers though.
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/455-blinking-bulbs
I have these on mine. They are the only LED's I have on it. They work great as a replacement.
Quoted from brado426:You know, the picture that cosmokramer posted is a good reason to convert those to LEDs. My sockets are brittle too after years of incandescent heat.
Mine are all fine. I won't put LED in my Funhouse, or much of my old games simply because I prefer the old style on them. It's on less than 20 hours a year. The connectors are going to get brittle from age, not because of the lights themselves.
It's a matter of taste, I've seen enough conversions to know that for...the warm yellow that some of the older games have the LEDs just don't do it for me. I've had this game for 20 years, I've replaced like 3 bulbs in that time. I think some of you people get a little too caught up in the OMG bulbs that were due to arcades and being on 12 hours a day. Almost like the people who push the pinstadiums lol.
That's not to say I'm completely opposed. I went to LED's on my Space Station (cool white and 2SMD(?) greens) and love it. Just depends on the theme.
Yea it is cool. I didn't realize they were still being made. I didn't pull the trigger because at one point I was thinking about getting the mirrored backglass.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I bought the mirrored backglass.
The mod is supposed to work with it, but i decided i didnt need it.
The pinsound wirh shaker however, I think is a must have on this game.
I'm not a fan of the pinsound on this game, but that's just me. I like the oldschool.
I didn't think the light thing would work with the mirrored backglass because the dots are mirrored rather than opaque?
Quoted from TheOnlyest:I still just cant find a way to accept this nonsense... A NIB Funhouse cost $2800 in 1990. And while I've heard all the "justification theories" and comparisons to classic cars, yadda yadda. This is one of the most NON rare games Williams ever built!! There are shit-tons of them out there, a thrashed POS will never be worth more than this game cost as NIB!!
I will never own one at these stupid prices, so I guess it'll be my Eleanor until the next recession, when all these chumps will be forced to sell at 1/3 of what they paid... in other words, what they're actually worth!
So...then how would you explain Addams Family..which sold the most games of any but goes for 2x the price? Just because you choose not to pay the crazy prices (and trust me..I'm with you on this for 20-30 year old games) doesn't mean they aren't worth the prices...if someones buying them, they are.
Quoted from cosmokramer:You sound very bitter, thats unfortunate.
The thing is, he could sell most of his games for way more than he paid ....so while sure, buying old games may be out of the question, it's not like his collection is worthless. It works both ways.
I understand why he wouldn't want to though. I'm the same way. I could never get the games again at near the prices I got them for in the past.
Quoted from brado426:I wouldn't sell my Funhouse at any price. I suspect most others feel the same way... which is probably what keeps the price up. To me, Funhouse is the ultimate pinball machine of all time... the perfect theme... the perfect music... the perfect difficulty.... the perfect mood. Everything about it is perfect. I can't imagine another pinball machine ever being released that exceeds its greatness. It took the enthusiasm of a couple of friends of mine to help me to realize this... but am I ever convinced now!
Same, Funhouse was my grail game when I got into the hobby. I got VERY lucky on the pinball roulette wheel with mine. I have no idea what mine is worth, but ultimately, I don't care. (I did have someone offer me 17k for it about 15 years ago though - although I really doubt it is worth that much).
Are there better games? Yes. It's silly to say otherwise, but this game just resonates with me.
I think you need to decide what your end goal is. There' s a big (work and cost) difference between functional condition and collector quality. Personally, this insistence by many people that everything needs to be 'brand new' is a bit overboard. It's one thing to take a completely trashed non working game and restore it, but many of these examples are completely fine just not perfect. At the end of the day, regardless of how many times they say 'this is never leaving' it usually does and usually pretty quickly. They are sick of it after putting all that time into it. Some people enjoy doing restores more than playing the games. I do not, I fix things all day for a living, I don't care to do it in my hobbies any more than necessary. I therefore do only what is necessary. The cab for instance, who cares if it is faded? 99% of people don't even see the cabinet in their collection. You are most likely not going to get out more than you put into it if you do a complete and total overhaul. On the other hand you can do what is necessary to get it fully functional, and at least somewhat presentable for minimal money and enjoy actually playing it. Cleaning, a wax job, and new rubbers do wonders. (and of course if your Rudy isn't functioning that is a priority as well). Start there if you are unsure. Cliffys to prevent further ramp damage is also recommended, but ultimately for home use, not mandatory.
Quoted from thechakapakuni:Wow, would like to see pics of that puppy. I remember when I first played FH in a bowling alley. It seemed like 1990 but was probably 91. It was next to a Taxi. Crazy machine. Probably the last on prem pinball I played until a couple years ago when I got back into. Low and behold my brother bought one and the game holds up. I actually have to go fix it tomorrow cuz I broke it, oops
Haha, that was where I first played FH too...the local bowling alley. They had it and T2. Both were great.
Quoted from jgelman:On page 54, I posted pictures of my Funhouse and asked for advice on some upgrades. Around that time, I saw a nicely restored Funhouse sell for $13,000 following forum comments about how the machine was worth thousands less.
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Did it actually sell for 13k? EDIT: well it says it did and contributed, so can't argue that. As much as I love Funhouse, I wouldn't pay that much for even a remake of it. Some people just have enough money that it doesn't matter what the cost is if they think it is nice enough. Chances are that game won't ever get played but a handful of times.
Quoted from jgelman:Was just wondering: I do not know if my cabinet is original or not. Can anyone tell for sure? It is my understanding that if original, it may be harder to remove the side rails.
Also wondering: Can any experts tell if my playfield original or DiamondPlate, or clear coated at some point or repro etc?
Thanks!!
Did you post pics of your game?
If it was Diamond Plate ior L.S Topcoat it will say down by the flippers. There were only around 100 or so of these types early in the run. The rest either had mylar or nothing.
Unless someone restored yours before...I imagine your cab and pretty much everything is original.
Well, I'm no expert regarding repro pf's, but that doesn't have the markings, and it appears to be clearcoated which most likely means it is a repro playfield. The decals are very bright. I would say this game was restored at some point.
Do you know any history at all?
I would say you probably need to do minimal work on it. Just fix up Rudy.
EDIT: Just read what you posted...I'm not clear what you are asking. You say it was restored. There is indeed very little you need to do. Just fix up Rudy, and if maybe color match some of the dings in the cab paint.
That things already had most common things replaced on it. Shop it, put some rubbers and LED's in if you want...and enjoy.
Quoted from jgelman:Multiple pictures posted on page 54. Happy to post more along with any parts of the cabinet/playfield you would find helpful.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Install the newest 9.05h ROM. It has the smart trap door feature to keep balls from betting trapped behind the door on a weak shot.
In 25 years of owning this pin, I have never had that happen, and I've always been on pre production code until a few months ago wihen I went to L-5. Not that I don't advocate to updating to 9.05h.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I have had the ball trapped on the trapdoor quite a few times until I enabled the setting.
The trapdoor opens on the first switch hit after the ball passes the door.
On a weak shot, the ball rolls back, the door opens and the ball is trapped on the hinge.
This is mostly cleared by the ball search. sometimes the ball is flung and launched into the air, or bounces off the glass via the trapdoor opening up.
The smart trapdoor setting, when enabled, moves the trapdoor opening instruction to the second switch further around the loop.
This mostly corrects the problem.
Both 9.05 and 9.05h have the smart trapdoor setting.
The 9.05h free play "Blinky" ROM makes Rudy blink during the game a lot more.
9.05 doesnt have the blinky feature but still has the enhanced "smart" trapdoor feature and a lot of additional fixes.
Yeah I'm as high as I can go, and unfortunately, the grand champion lighting is way lackluster compared to the proto roms. But i did get some new callouts and a few changed scores/modes.
Quoted from Lopa:Not a big Powell Peralta guy are you?
It looked like Rudy as a chestburster to me 
Quoted from canea:Don't mean to derail Alex's questions, but I'm at about the same point and have the same ones!
Machine says I'm on L-3 CPU and L-3 sound. My game came with a couple spare ROMs, one of which looks like L-9 and one original music/speech one.
So same question: do I need to rejumper anything to boot L-9?
Do the CPU and sound roms need to match (for example, can I use L-9 with whatever sound thing I have going on now)?[quoted image][quoted image]
Before you change the chips. Do you have a volume knob in your cabinet to adjust the volume? If you do, that impacts how high you can go. Since you have a PA-1 sitting there, I'm guessing you do.
It would be nice if someone edited the L-9 t work with the old sound board.
Quoted from AlexRogan84:And reading a little bit on the how-to's, it would appear as though I would need to change this jumper position in W1, W2. Is that right?
Are the ROM's normally socketed chips? Which one on the board is it exactly?
Yes socketed. And yes for 9.0 you need to switch the jumper. Should be U6 (pinballinreno's photo shows it).
While you are in there jumpering, you may as well swap out for an NVRAM too. But it's a little more intricate work IIRC.
Quoted from yzfguy:I have the L-9 in my game. Do these jumpers and all change the sound quality, or it wouldn't be working at all without these changes?
Needs it because the L-9 rom is a bigger rom than the old ones. If it does work at all, it would only partially work. Doesn't impact sound quality.
Seems like jumper is only required on L9 though. I recently went from proto to L-5 without moving a jumper.
Quoted from canea:Great, thanks all. L-9 booting fine.
One change I notice is that the shooter eject is very weak the first time, and then the second time is stronger and always gets it into the shooter. This happens every time, not intermittently. Eject worked fine before switching roms. I read someone else having this problem with L-9 on a non-pinside thread, but no solutions. Is it a software bug?
So did you have to move the jumper? Was it already correct? etc etc.
As for problems with L-9, as I asked before, if you have an early game with the old style sound board (has an actual volume knob in the cab) from what I understand you can't go above L-5 or it won't work. Doesn't mean that is their problem (maybe didn't do the jumper move), but it is something to have them check.
Quoted from Markharris2000:It’s actually the size of the ROM that determines if you need the jumper moved. Most factory ROMs L3 or before were burned into 1meg EPROMs. After L3 they started using 2meg roms. That said, that is only the rule when using genuine factory supplied ROMs. Lots of machines have ROMs that came from other places. L3 and earlier versions could be burned into ANY size ROM, but L4 and beyond REQUIRED 2meg chips.
I tried to keep it simple, but it has some obscure details….
Still not tracking what you are saying because I've never seen anything that says L4 and beyond require you to move the jumper. Just for L-9. I don't remember the size details, but as I said, I didn't move the jumper when going to L-5 and mine was long before L-3. I'm not saying you are wrong, just not making sense from what I've personally seen if everything after L4 required a larger ROM. I must be missing something.
Quoted from pinballinreno:ROMs above L-5 require the jumper change according to matts basement arcade.
EDIT: N/m misread what you wrote. That would make sense then.
Quoted from canea:Yes, I moved the jumper. My game does not have volume knob, just the standard 4 position buttons on the coin door. Seems to be good!
Sorry, yeah I assumed that when you said it was working. I was meaning that you could have the other person check that was having issues.
I think your sound issue is a volume pot. Mine does this occasionally. It would be in the cabinet, I believe on the left side wall. Wiggle it around and it should crackle. Probably needs cleaned. Generally you can just twist it back and forth 4-5 times and then set it to the volume you want and it will be fine.
If you don't have one of those anywhere, I'm not sure what it would be. Maybe check connectors on the speakers if you haven't already. Alternatively, corroded joints, traces, and resistors can also cause this.
As for the ball trough -- FH has optos...but I'm not sure if there are any in the trough...I'd have to look at schematics to know for sure. It probably is just a trough switch that needs adjusted.
Quoted from brado426:Funhouse doesn't have a volume pot. It is a digital control. I had a problem with sound fizzling out and it was because of a loose wire in the backbox. There is a connector that I don't have any idea where it is supposed to connect to. Everything seems to work fine without it, but it would occasionally touch some component causing a fizzle (not good). Once I taped it up, no more problem. It seems to be the wire that goes to the speakers. I just looked again and I see nothing that this connector could plug into. If someone could check theirs and let me know, I'd appreciate it.
[quoted image]
There are 2 versions. The early versions have the old Sys-11 sound with a pot. Have you not been reading this thread? 
I believe the samples/protos and first 200-300 games have these.
Quoted from brado426:I haven't read everything in this thread. I had no idea.
That being said, your advice is helpful if he has the digital version. As I've never seen one in person, I don't know what the simple fixes on it might be.
Quoted from MarklarD:My friends machine uses the buttons in the coin door for volume. Is it safe to assume his is digital? Or can it also run through a pot?
Yes, if he's doing it via the buttons it's digital. That is assuming the volume actually changes. The settings are there on the Sys-11 code, but they don't actually do anything.
Quoted from brado426:That's what I meant by digital. Mine uses the buttons in the coin door for volume. I've never seen a Funhouse with a pot, but I haven't seen that many.
Mine would drive you nuts then.
I have wide siderails, an outie start button, a volume pot, L.S. Topcoat (another version of Diamond Plate), and signed by Pat Lawlor as the first (production) game off the line. (brag brag). It was a cool accidental find. I call it FrankenFunhouse.
Quoted from MarklarD:Got it. The volume adjustments work fine if i recall correctly. Next time I go back Ill follow wires more closely and check for corrosion.
While I have your attention... did these come with playfield protectors on them? His has one, it seems to be poorly applied (placement wise), discolored, and bubbly. From quick google searching I kind of determined I should just leave it be if I dont know have experience removing it. But man, I wish I could just peel that off and have the playfield shine through. His machine needs a lot of love, but it sure is still fun!
I assume you mean mylar? (the plasitc that is glued on). I think many did after the first 200 or so. I'm not really clear on if that was an add-on option or standard. Someone with more experience would have to speak to that. I've never had the courage to remove mylar from games. (Note: Playfield protectors are a different / newer product that is an aftermarket add on).
Quoted from DanQverymuch:FWIW, my early (DP) game has WPC sound. No pot.
Good to know. I thought there were more of them out there than that.
Quoted from MarklarD:I dont know if this adds to any diagnosis, but I think i remember on our last game there that he had the clock at midnight. The ball drained, and it didnt register it, we waited for the ball search, it eventually kicked it out and ended his turn. Then on his next turn, the game had him at 11:45 again for some reason.
I assume that might just be code based where they kinda take you back a step if you lose the turn after a ball search.
So, I had a very similar issue on Space Station (also WPC) where ball would drain, but would not register it until a ball search happened. It was due to a non-working opto elsewhere in the game. The only opto I'm aware of on Funhouse is in front of Rudy's mouth. You could validate that is working as expected (and not flakey). Probably not the issue, but something else easy to check.
I would love one of those if he makes another. I hesitated buying one some time ago because I was waiting for the 3d mirrored backglass at the time which I did not think those 2 would work together. I since changed my mind and kept the original translite.
Quoted from Purdue:I have the both a cpr mirrored bg and the roving funhouse leds in mine. It is fan-freaking-tastic. So much better than crappy old trans light, the F/J issue is crazy talk imo.
Can you post a video?
Quoted from Purdue:I can’t get a great quality video to upload because my crappy internet connection tonight but here’s something
Thanks for that. It actually does what I suspected. It's not lighting the dots, but just the outlines, which limits the modes you can use on it. I suppose it's just a matter of taste, but for the price of the thing and everything it can do, I feel with the mirrored one it limits it quite a bit. It is cool that it works at all with it though.
BTW, very nice machine!
The reason I decided against the mirrored BG (for the game at least) is simply because my game isn't in the best shape overall and think it would stand out oddly in comparison to the rest of the game. I still want to pick one up though to do a wall hanging.
Quoted from yzfguy:I've had a Funhouse for a lot of years and never heard that one! Now I will be missing the steps on purpose.
Yeah, me either.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Im in!
Cant wait to install it.
I just finished a super high end restoration on my game.
Pinballgoddess's assessment of the original game => "Yawn"..., put rudy to sleep, rinse and repeat etc...
When she saw this upgrade she said its a no brainer, told me to immediately get it.
This adds so much to a great game and makes it even greater, and to a class above!
I think FH is a nostalgia pin, at least certainly is for me. I don't hold any delusions that it isn't shallow and repetitive. But it just has so much personality compared to many pins of the era, and after. I'm most likely in on this as it definitely could use a change of pace.
Kind of like Dan, Funhouse is what really got me into pinball - and collecting. I set out to get a Funhouse which at the time I thought would be out of my range. I ended up scoring one for a great price as my 3rd pin. After owning it for 25ish years it's a little long in the tooth compared to all the new flashy games. I still enjoy it, but it certainly doesn't get the play it used to.
Quoted from canea:I'd put the new art in! I need a new translite anyway since my original is faded, so I'd be happy to have the new art even if it doesn't 100% match the original.
I was wondering if Rudy is the protagonist in the new code. Like if you're fighting clones of Rudy as Rudy, or if your'e fighting against Rudy. He was (kind of) the villain in the original code so will be interested to see how he's portrayed here. (Poor Rudy, no sleep either way)
Since he's still on the pf, I would hope he's still the antagonist. The one who creates the clones, etc. I do wish they could have got the original voice though. Or Howey Mandel to impersonate
Quoted from Markharris2000:Too bad they didn't build in both the ORIGINAL and UPDATED code base on the machine, selectable somehow at boot-up. I am sure they have plenty of room in the FAST CPU card flash memory, but they would have to ALSO reverse engineer the original v9.05 rules to do so. (I guess that would double the amount of programmer effort). But it would be cool to remain true to the original code with updated displays, or jump into revenge mode as the player wishes. (The recent Cactus canyon Remake essentially did this dual version at boot up built-in)
Just a thought....
It will do both the original and new version. From the notes, it will replace the CPU and sound boards. They are also supposedly working on LCD animations for the original code.
"This includes switching between the original game code and the Rudy's Nightmare (and potentially others!) "
I don't know what way open or closed is off hand, but logic says it should be whatever makes it 'on' so that it sees the balls pass.
From other thread here and this makes sense in the way the game detects the ball. Closed = complete circuit / Open = broken circuit
two leds using special spectrums of light. One led emits light, the other led detects the light. Optos are normally closed, when something breaks the beam(like the ball passing between the LEDs) the circuit goes open and the computer detects that.
Quoted from Completist:So i started with just changing out some burned out GI lamps. Which there were many and made my game pretty dark. But then noone here at home was bugging me or asking me to do anything. So i tore the whole topside apart. It was very filthy back there. I replaced all the GI with comet 2smd sunlights. All the rubbers replaced with titans i bought on black friday (not the one that just past either lol). With the ramps out i replaced those with the ones i bought off Larry forever ago lol. The picture may not show it but there’s a world of difference now. Finally i color matched the controlled lamps (i leave flashers incandescent typically). I do have Cliffy’s to protect the ramps which i of course forgot. So i’ll add those on tomorrow. But very happy with todays progress and how the game is looking now.
Still need to lift the hood again to rebuild the flippers. And i have to pull the trap door to install a new flap cuz mine was snapped off. Actually found the old flap in behind Rudy. Rudy functions fine but i’ll open him up and service him anyway. I think everyone funhouse owner shud have to do that at least once.
The good thing is i got to see whats involved on there in case i decide to install the new playfield.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
From what I can see, that PF looks fine, just needs a good cleaning and wax? No reason to compeltely replace it for the one wear spot by the outhole..just have it touched up if nothing else. Hard to tell but it looks like it had mylar that was taken off, or is still there?
Quoted from big-c66:I really love funhouse n want one. I found one for 7000$ can u get new play field n different parts for it still I was just wondering before I decide to go with maybe a Deadpool or something.
If you are paying 7k, you shouldn't be needing a new pf....or much anything for parts. It should be nearly immaculate.
Quoted from big-c66:No it looks pretty good but I was just seeing how available parts were for it. Cause I’m picky n like for my pins to stay in top notch so I know if I get one I’ll start picking it apart so to speak lol.
The hardest parts to find are the Rudy head/eyes. Otherwise, I think everything else can be found.
Quoted from mollyspub:Ok dumb question but how do you tell the difference between WPC and system 11. Mine doesn’t have this either.
If you adjust your volume by a knob in the cabinet, you have Sys 11. If you change it by the menu buttons you have WPC.
First time I've seen this thing on the speakerboard, so I have no idea if it is a Sys-11 vs WPC thing, but assuming it is.
Searching around at one point someone suggested that maybe it didn't call out while on free play mode.
It is odd, because I swear mine used to yell things just like what was mentioned above "Hey Bucko!" etc. I am probably filling in those memories though.
Quoted from big-c66:I found a funhouse for 6500$ my question is how hard is it to get parts now. I’ve been reading on here about we’re to get them n I love the game. I was thinking pulling the trigger on tmnt or Deadpool but I have always loved funhouse but I keep hearing it’s getting tougher to find parts on n off so I’m kinda up in the air. Lol
For $6500 it shouldn't need any parts! 
Quoted from mollyspub:Oh trust me… very common especially if you have the original plastic. It’s just a matter of time.
I'm not saying it doesn't happen. I'm saying...never been something my eyes went to. But then, my game isn't restored so I have lots of other things to draw my attention lol.
Quoted from reynolds531:""I have a “player’s condition” Funhouse that I am thinking about a more or less full restore. One of the issues that I am having is that I cannot turn the volume down and there is some baseline static heard on the speakers. I did some research on Pinside about this problem and the sound board is the likely problem (failing digital pot or amp?). I did the easy stuff first (reseated ribbon cables, factory reset, volume override to “yes”). When I look at my machine it has an extra board (A13502) that runs from the sound board to the MPU. Apparently it is the “sound overlay board” from System 11 and was found on a few Funhouse and Dr. Dude machines. The FH manual that came with my machine does not include the A13502 board in the back board parts schematic. Could this extra board be causing any of the sound problems? Will I need this board if I rebuild/replace the sound board?""
I posted the above in the alpha-numeric topic last week and I didn’t get many replies. I am hoping that the Funhouse specific forum will be more helpful. I have done some more homework and I have figured out that I have a prototype FH (side rails, extra STEPS switch, raised start button). It has the A13971 sound board and the A13502 board. What needs looking at to fix the volume control?
I found the answer about using the A13502 board on Pinside and it is a bit of a work around. If I can figure out the volume and static problems with boards I have I will just use them.
On a separate note: with all of the Mirco playfield problems where can I source a new Funhouse playfield? I would really rather not order from Marco given all of the issues with his playfields. I did reach out to Mr. Kruzman about having him work his magic on a Mirco FH playfield.
Your volume knob is in the cabinet on the left side by the tilt bob if you didn't know. You cannot use the up/down buttons they do not work with your machine. You also cannot go above a certain code level. It is possible you have issues with a board, but the volume knob gets scratchy and flaky over time and need cleaned or they cut out, etc. If you have not already looked into this, that is where I would start. I will check my manuals to see if I have the Sys-11 board schematics but I really doubt the board is your issue.
Funhouse was made around the same time they were changing backend systems. The protos/samples and probably the first 100 or so use the old analog system (Sys-11). WPC was the newer digital version that uses the volume buttons.
Since you say you have the extra STEPS target congrats. I don't think very many of those were made. However...that does kind of put a damper on your plan to get a remake playfield. The remakes are not going to match yours, but on the plus side, I think all of the early games have some sort of clear coat or mylar on them. If it needs work you would be better off sending it out to get it repaired and clear coated.
You can find more information and pdf's of manuals for the soundboards here
https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=966
The more I think about this (because I also have an early game) anyone aware of anyone converting from Sys-11 to WPC? Everything seems to be there to do it, just maybe change out the boards and upgrade the ROMS?
Quoted from reynolds531:You have it figured out. There is a pot switch behind the tilt mechanism. It does control the volume and it does give off static when turned. If this is the same as the pot switches on my old stereo amps and receivers I should be able to fix it with some Deoxit. Thank you so much. It does have the usual four switches behind the coin door and the volume bars to go down to about half way on the alpha numeric screen. It does not turn down the volume, that said
I went and reviewed everything on this machine. I suspect that it is some bastard child of a system 11 and an 89WPS. I was incorrect about the STEPS switches: it only has the four (STEP). It does have the prototype start switch, the extended side rails and obviously the older sound boards. It does not appear to have the diamond plate playfield. It does have a significant amount of mylar on the playfield. There is soe good news to this as it will make finding a new playfield easier.
Again, thank you for your help.
Sounds like you got one close to mine and I also call mine Frankenstein (lol). As they started building the production machines they were just using up whatever left over sample parts they had. Do you have any red circuit boards under the playfield? You can also check the right side area by the flippers and see if anything is written there to see if it has any clearcoat.
As for the pf itself....really you should look at how bad your pf is...because buying a replacement should be the last option. If it has mylar, it can't be in too bad shape under it....but that is some work to remove it without damaging the pf.
Yeah, that is some planking....I do not know enough about pf restores to know how hard it would be to fix it.
I personally would avoid the overlays because in many cases due to the height change, it requires reworking nuts/bolts, switches etc to account for the difference.
Maybe someone else can speak to that.
Quoted from MC35:Now that I have my 2.0 kit, I'm actually ready to start restoring my FH.
I need to touch of the blue on the cabinet. Anyone know the right blue paint?
Haha..it's making me want to too...but...ugh...I really don't want to. I've had a new set of ramps for 2 years, but don't want to put those on without doing everything else...
I have an issue where none of my flashers are working.
J102 pins 3,4 show 0V AC (if I'm testing correctly)
F111 shows - 0AC on both sides (and has continuity when off)
TP7 shows .5v
LED5 isn't on
J107 pins 5,6 show .5v
J126 pins related to flashers all show .5v
My assumption is that J102 isn't correct and that appears to go down to the transformer. Apparently this should be ~16V AC coming in. I haven't really messed with the transformer before. What is the best way to test and what am I looking for coming out of it? I found another thread with a similar issue and the suggestion was to pull J102 and test pins 2,3 one lead on each with AC. I get 0 with that if I'm doing it right. Pins 1,2 on the transformer are for flashers.
Edit: updated after I realized I was testing J102 and F111 using DC.
Quoted from Zablon:I have an issue where none of my flashers are working.
J102 pins 3,4 show 0V AC (if I'm testing correctly)
F111 shows - 0AC on both sides (and has continuity when off)
TP7 shows .5v
LED5 isn't on
J107 pins 5,6 show .5v
J126 pins related to flashers all show .5v
My assumption is that J102 isn't correct and that appears to go down to the transformer. Apparently this should be ~16V AC coming in. I haven't really messed with the transformer before. What is the best way to test and what am I looking for coming out of it? I found another thread with a similar issue and the suggestion was to pull J102 and test pins 2,3 one lead on each with AC. I get 0 with that if I'm doing it right. Pins 1,2 on the transformer are for flashers.
Edit: updated after I realized I was testing J102 and F111 using DC.
I'm missing something here if anyone can help.
I tested continuity from the transformer plug to the J102 pins and that is good.
But when I test the AC on the output plug of the transformer, I'm getting 0 at all pins (which can't be true, because the game works other than the flashers). I don't believe FH has a coin door shutoff, but I have it closed just in case. I am grounding to the ground strap in the cabinet.
For whatever reason, I can't get the AC to test properly (on 2 different DMMs).
If I test DCv on those pins/fuseF111 at J102, I see -9v.
Quoted from monkfe:Test across the two ac leads, not the ground
Thanks. Oddly, I did that at pins 2/3 on J102 and was getting 0. But testing at the transformer does show 16V and now when I test again at J102 I see the 16V. Turns out one of my DMM's AC reading does not appear to be working(??).
So...now I'm back to needing to check BR4 and the cap there I guess.
EDIT: BR4 is showing 460 to 480ish across all which I believe is good. I'm not finding any continuity issues. I think that just leaves C11 as a possible culprit, but I just replaced all these caps a few years ago...hmm.
Would a bad cap cause TP7 to show barely any voltage? Probably going to replace both BR4 and C11 as I can't find any actual issues prior to those.
Quoted from Zablon:Thanks. Oddly, I did that at pins 2/3 on J102 and was getting 0. But testing at the transformer does show 16V and now when I test again at J102 I see the 16V. Turns out one of my DMM's AC reading does not appear to be working(??).
So...now I'm back to needing to check BR4 and the cap there I guess.
EDIT: BR4 is showing 460 to 480ish across all which I believe is good. I'm not finding any continuity issues. I think that just leaves C11 as a possible culprit, but I just replaced all these caps a few years ago...hmm.
Would a bad cap cause TP7 to show barely any voltage? Probably going to replace both BR4 and C11 as I can't find any actual issues prior to those.
Replaced BR4 and C11 and no change. I'm at a loss here because this part of the board is pretty straight forward.
J102 goes to BR4 / F111 (2/3 respectively - showing 16v AC) after that there's the LED (off), TP7 (showing .6v)
Fuse tests good, but I can't figure out a good way to test if power is actually getting to the cap/bridge while it is in the backbox. There is continuity between the cap and the positive lead of the bridge. Continuity is good throughout that I see.
Scratching my head on this one....any thoughts?
Tried this bridge test (in diode mode) and my readings are nothing like what they have here. I get nothing on TP5 doing this test.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/File:TestingWPC-BR4-InSitu.gif
Quoted from monkfe:so if the caps weren't removed with care, you may have ripped the via out, check continuity coming out of the cap on both sides of the board....those via's are thin there...
Haha, yeah, just found a thread where that was the issue and took another look. I didn't think I did, but yes, that is what happened. C11 neg to B4 neg was bad. Fixed now. The cap was bad, so it wasn't all for nothing.
Am I the only one who thinks they look the same? You weren't basing what color you thought it was supposed to be on the existing one were you? I can tell you, they the original artwork was slightly purple tinted and faded to what you see, not the same color as the paint.
Maybe the difference isn't coming across in the pictures.
Quoted from brado426:I still haven't found a topper I really love for Funhouse yet. Not sure what I'm looking for, but not this.
I can picture what I think would be cool...
An old timey wood roller coaster. Just a simple couple hills foreground/background, and a car that goes along it (moves).
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Green-Machine:I was thinking so but did not know for sure. It seemed pointless not being connected.
Here is full view when in the cab
[quoted image]
is there something missing there?
Quoted from brado426:That sums it up very well... Funhouse is already a masterpiece. I don't want to alter a masterpiece. You wouldn't modify the smile of the Mono Lisa!!
I guess I'm not alone in my reluctance to acquire this mod. It sure is awesome that someone went through the trouble to make it, and I feel like I should support them for that. I just like the original game too much to change it that much.
It depends. I didn't change anything other than the screens. The updated code is interesting for what it is, and it has some fun ideas to it. It feels incomplete though. BUT, and this is a big but, I haven't installed the lastest firmware because it seemed problematic. I think some of my complaints are addressed in it, but not all of them yet. The animations for v2 are great, the voice takes a bit to get used to, but if you realize the theme here is that Rudy is asleep and dreaming, the voice isn't really an issue.
One benefit of this to me is that my version of FH couldn't upgrade past a certain point and this allows me to get the latest FH code which is actually a bonus. The LCD implementation of v1 is just basic. There also seem to be some volume issues with v1 where the music is louder than Rudy in most cases (may be fixed in new code).
This may not seem like a glowing review, but if you love Funhouse, I don't see why you wouldn't want to get this. I don't think I would buy a Funhouse 'just' to get this mod though. Get a Funhouse because you like Funhouse, and get this for some additional play. It is still being worked on so it will improve and/or get additional content as time goes on. For what games cost these days (or even mods), this is pretty cheap. I do think they should offer just a board/screen combo without the translite/art which might give it a lower price point, but not a huge deal.
The original is glass with a translite as with most games of of that era. As mentioned there is an aftermarket actual backglass from a site they had a few options, one of which is mirrored.
I do not believe ANY original Funhouse came with actual painted/printed backglasses (the cover is glass, but it still has a translite behind it)
Quoted from Pbgixxer:That’s what I thought until I went to IPDB and it shows a backglass and translite.
I suppose maybe a few of the very early prototypes may have had one? but translites are still called backglasses as backglass is a generic term on all pinballs. I don't see anything there that leads me to believe there were any true backglasses though.
Quoted from PPS:RUDY Face and Back of Head Sets UNDECORATED - now available! Original WMS tool, CNC cut, ready for you to decorate as you wish ...
https://www.planetarypinball.com/PPS-31-1588-50003B
Team PPS[quoted image]
Why do I feel like I need to buy one of these, paint some black/gray hair on it, and then sell it as a Michael Myers mask mod for Halloween.
Quoted from petebest:Little help with sound issue?
The sound on my new-to-me funhouse seems weird.
The volume of Rudy ‘s voice seems disproportionately high compared to the rest of the audio. If I turn the background music up to an acceptable level, Rudy’s voice is ear shattering.
Boards are clean, no battery damage. New batteries.
Is this pretty typical for this game? Or should I assume have a problem? If you think I’ve got a problem, what would likely culprit be?
On my old Bally games (squawk and talk board era) the voice volume can be adjusted separately from the music volume. Can that be done on funhouse?
Thx!
It's not right, but not sure where you would start on the board without looking. Did you do sound tests?
Quoted from koji:https://www.casetifys.com/products/animatronic-eyes-kit-for-arduino-bionic-robot-sg90-servo-joystick-control-stem?st&utm_source=23854233138140202&utm_medium=%E7%9C%BC%E7%9D%9B%20-%2023%20-%20%E6%A0%91%E8%8E%93%E6%B4%BE&utm_campaign=Facebook_Mobile_Feed&utm_content=8&fbclid=IwAR1N0fCJ8GJi-L4CKA311N7_OyILw-FDL2EXipapPtdiDJknMLmOGupwGJU
Site might be fake.. no idea.. lol, but can't shake the vision of seeing rudy do a full circle eye movement in frenzy
Seems like there are some open source instructions and STLs for this anyway.
Hah, this is some stuff I'm working on for halloween props. Hadn't considered using it for Rudy. You could program it via switches just like Rudy is now (to look around where the ball is). You could possibly even have it do ball tracking via a camera of some sort if you wanted to get really fancy.
Quoted from Doctor6:I hear Rudy eats the ball. That can't possibly be correct, can it?
I pointed this out in the Jaws thread, but Rudy does not eat the ball. He chokes on the ball and spits it out. Completely different and apparently technologically feasible in 1991. Physicists have been unable to top this technology since.
I'm interested in the new head mechanics, and the hopefully replacement eyes. Having the 2.0 kit, I do like the LCD screen, but I hate the implementation of OG code on it. They have not worked out all the kinks, or they are holding out to update it until this is released. Either way, to me, curious how this will do. I think they will charge more than they should for it, but who knows. FH's aren't selling for 10-15k like MM, AFM, MB were so a 8k price point or close seems too steep for a FH in this day. And this is coming from a huge Funhouse fan boy. Sell a classic FH for 5k, you might rake in the sales.
I had very high hopes for FH2.0. I am disappointed overall. I was expecting much more...but this seemed to just have been a testbed for changing displays and boards. It's not that it is bad, but it feels more like a draft of an idea that was never finished. What is there is good, but overall is just lacking. I get that there's only so much you can do with an existing - and very specific layout, but I would have thought 2 years in this code would have been finished. It just feels...empty.
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Kellogg, IA
