(Topic ID: 64458)

Funhouse!? Club... (Fans welcome)

By mof

10 years ago


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#2797 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Does anyone have access to the original source tapes for Rudy’s voice callouts? I wonder if they could be used or the old ones cleaned up for pinsound usage. I would love to have Rudy more loud and clear.

Can either post an image of your sound board or the model number from the sticker on the board?

If there is no sticker then please post an image of the lower half of the board that is well lit and in focus. It's possible that you have an incorrectly configured sound board. When a fliptronic sound board is used in a non-fliptronic machine it results in CVSD and DAC output levels that are lower in volume due to the synthesizer output level being different between the two types of boards.

If your machine is System 11 and not WPC then please disregard.

1 month later
#2977 2 years ago

If any readers are looking for alternatives to repair or Pinsound I have reproduction sound boards available. The linked post is another user's board but the board is offered as bare or complete (built by me).

It should be stated very clearly that repair is almost always cheaper than replacement. I almost always recommend repair over replacement.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dumbass-test-and-reproduction-pcbs/page/3#post-5825899

8 months later
#3878 1 year ago
Quoted from reynolds531:

The playfield does not mention anything about the clear coat (no diamond plate).

I do not know for a fact but I think that if the playfield was coated with DP then no mylar was installed. Otherwise you should assume the playfield was lacquered and if you try to remove the mylar there is risk that you will pull the artwork with the mylar. I have a DP Rollergames and there are factory mylar half moons at the slings and someone put an aftermarket "mylar" on it.

Quoted from reynolds531:

You can see where the mylar ends.

This is where the problem will be. If you want to restore the playfield the mylar has to come off. As mentioned above there is a risk the artwork will come off with the mylar. Once you've got the mylar off then you have a repaint all the blues that don't color match. The whites don't color match either - they have all yellowed. It's a BIG job. I repainted yellows on an Indiana Jones and that took me a few days to do.

1 year later
#4681 9 months ago
Quoted from John1963:

Fuse 101 blows on pressing left flipper button and I cannot, despite my best efforts, work out why. Wiring seems fine. I have resoldered switch wiring.

Quoted from brado426:

I don't think a shorted leaf switch would cause a fuse to blow. Sounds more like a coil or wiring issue related to the coil.

Agree with this. Please post images of the flipper mechanisms. Specifically the solenoid and the solenoid wiring.

Quoted from brado426:

I'd open a ticket with pinball brothers and see what they recommend.

I must be missing something obvious here as I don't understand why Pinball Brothers would have anything to do with this.

#4683 9 months ago
Quoted from brado426:

I still wouldn't think the Funhouse flipper switches would cause a fuse to blow.

Agree. The flipper cabinet button (switch) is part of the path to ground. Even if the switch is stuck on, the current draw should flow through the hold winding and not blow a fuse.

#4687 9 months ago
Quoted from John1963:

Nothing to note on visual inspection but tested as shorted and when removed, upper left flipper works and fuse does not blow. I will get a new coil and report back on installation. Does the fact that the coil failed alert as to possible issues I should examine?

<facetious>Nothing to note on YOUR visual inspection.</facetious>

If you want a second opinion, you should post an image of your mechanism including wiring.

You should probably also mention HOW you are testing to reach the conclusion that there is a short. I have found recently when people report findings they are measuring incorrectly so they are making decisions on incorrect data. Garbage input = garbage output. It could be the diodes that are shorted. That's a $0.01 fix. Replacing the solenoid can be a $15 fix - if that even fixes your problem.

I just dealt with a Funhouse flipper issue at the recent Northwest Pinball and Arcade Show. I messed around with the EOS and gaps and stuff like that for about 5 minutes before I finally reached the diagnosis that it was the flipper diodes. A $0.02 fix as both diodes were replaced. The fix was applied before the show opened and no further complaints for the entire show.

4 months later
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