That's an interesting question. If balls are locked at the start of the game it affects gameplay as once you lock a ball in the new game, if there are two already locked it will start your new ball out of that mech instead of the trough and if one ball is locked it will take the first new locked ball, but after getting the second will start your third from the mech instead of the trough.

On my Whirlwind it ejects locked balls after games, but still runs into the issue of starting a new game when balls are already locked or when they are locked between players in a multiplayer game. Seems odd Funhouse doesnt eject these by default after a game. Maybe Im missing something.

Correct. As mention, Indiana Jones has a setting which allows you to clear the idol lock after every game. It just keeps the games consistent. Was hoping Funhouse had this setting as well. I went through the adjustments and didn’t see anything obvious. Might not be an option

I think the only thing that comes close is tournament mode.

Ah, so tournament resets it? Hmm. Makes sense I guess

Turn the game off and on.

You can also get the balls to release by entering the programming menus. You don't have to go in very far or change anything, just by pressing the first programming button and then exiting right away will reset the game and eject the balls. Easier on the machine then cycling the power IMO.

I haven't been paying close attention so this may not be new, but I noticed Rudy face parts are now available. However, I'm a little perplexed.
They offer two different versions of the jaw which is interesting.
They offer both the front and back halves of the head. Here's where it gets interesting. Both versions of the jaw being offered is more of an orange color.
The head halves are white. Why didn't they pigment the halves parts as to match?
So I'm thinking about ordering the head halves, eye lids, and taking it to professional air brush specialist and having them paint all parts to match the original Rudy I have. Extra clear on the lips so it holds up.
Head - https://www.planetarypinball.com/pinball-31-1588-50003B
Jaws:
https://www.planetarypinball.com/pinball-31-2016-1
What I have - https://www.planetarypinball.com/pinball-31-1161

Look at that Kruzman coat shine!

20230829_155547 (resized).jpg

I believe one of those is mislabeled, and is meant for Red from Roadshow..

Per Planetary Pinball:
"This part is the correct plastic color per WMS specifications for RUDY on Funhouse, which has the CURVY lips as original (NOTE for Funhouse we also have a custom version with the OVAL lips similar to RED on Roadshow which is 31-2016-1."

Thanks - I wasn't wrong then.

So small issue I’ve noticed with my funhouse. I’ve owned the game for around 2 months and every now and then during a game when Rudy says a phrase his mouth moves but no sound is heard. It will happen at random. Sometimes on rarer occasions the wrong music will play.

I’ve swapped the audio board for a spare I had knocking around and changed the ribbon cable for a new one (the one that goes between the audio board and the MPU board) but it still happens every now and then. Is this normal? I’m thinking not. Would it be worth having new audio roms burnt?

Are you running the current game and audio ROMs?

I recall seeing something very similar to what you are describing happen with mine a few months ago. I'm running the latest (L-9) with anti-ghosting patch.

When I saw it happen, I reseated all the connectors on the sound board and haven't seen it happen again. I'll keep watching for it. Maybe it is some super rare bug with L-9? Will report back if I see it again.

Yes latest game roms. I believe there was only a single release of audio roms.

The only other thing I can think of is that my audio roms chips are failing with age.

My MPU board is a rottendog not sure if that matters.

Ok thanks

I get this too sometimes. I think it's an undocumented bug in L9

I have the same setup (RD board and L-9) and it works perfectly.
As far as "bit rot" it can certainly happen, but it's not very likely the culprit. I would personally inspect/reflow the solder points of the sockets, remove the chips and use a fiber glass pen to clean oxidation off the chips legs. Be careful and reinforce the legs when doing it otherwise they'll bend and you'll struggle to get them reseated. Is that last step necessary? I have a personal pet peeve which is to touch anything twice but at a minimum I would remove and reseat those chips.
I also used the fiber glass pen to clean the male headers. Oxidation can introduce all sorts of weirdness.

I should have mentioned that I’ve already cleaned and reseated the sound rom chips. I did use a spare sound board that I had with the issue still happening sometimes so it's not the sound board. I have also installed a brand new ribbon cable.

Just to be clear this only happens every now and then. The only other thing I can think of is to burn some new roms. Unless of course this is a normal bug.

Is this only happening when Rudy calls you 'Slick'? If so it is supposed to give different sounds, and he will say Zooooommmmm.

My right flipper is now weaker than it was, just enough that it no longer can make ramp shots it previously could. Left flipper is fine. Both flippers recently rebuilt including new bushings. I have checked solder connections on coil and EOS switch, EOS gap and flipper button switch. Can see no mechanical reason for weak flipper. Voltage good on all coil lugs. Have reseated connectors on power board.
Any suggestions as to what I should be testing next?
TIA
John

Double-check that the three screws on the bushing are still tight. They have a tendency to loosen up or fall out completely.

Check to ensure the flipper linkage bushing is present. Pretty easy for that to fall out or get lost during a rebuild.

Thank you both for these suggestions. The screws on the bushings are tight and the new crank link assembly was a complete unit without need to remove flipper linkage bushing. All parts of flippers and mech are new. I have adjusted flipper to remove some up and down movement and reseated new main ramp. Can now make ramp on clean shot of moving ball. Perhaps that is as good as it gets? Although testing flipper strength with my hand does suggest right weaker than left and I was certainly making ramp shot easier previously.
Even if voltage is good, could there be some electrical issue affecting current?

Yes. Check the EOS (end of stroke) switches. Compare left and right side. The weak flipper side EOS switch might be engaging too soon and robbing you of the full flipper power.

Triple checked the EOS. If no mechanical reason and voltage good, could there be a power board issue affecting current to one flipper only?

The flippers are fused individually. You could check the fuse holder and replace the fuse with a known good one of the correct rating.

Thanks but fuse checks out OK

What is the ohm value of the bad coil compared to the good one?

And, what are the voltages left and right?

Go ahead and measure those ohm values PinballReno suggested.

I might also suggest redefining how exactly the flippers are behaving, i.e. a more clear problem statement. Pictures and or a video would help. Could be something someone on here sees that you aren't. Fresh set of eyes, I mean. My gut tells me it is mechanical related, i.e. an alignment issue of some kind.

I no longer trust "brand new coils" without testing the resistance on them.

I have received quite a few that were off by 2 ohms or more.

The resistance chart is an invaluable tool to see if something is off a bit.

Matching the resistance on flippers is a key to getting them to behave correctly.

Many thanks for your advice. I am embarrassed and apologetic that it turned out to be the coil sleeve that was missed for replacement during rebuild.

Glad you got it sorted out! No need to be embarrassed. I don't think there's a pin guy alive that can claim he's never screwed up a repair.

Well, as Rudy would say... "Hey, it's only pinball!"

Glad you got it figured out. Now go enjoy some Funhouse!!!

Hi Folks,
Just trying to get a bit more exposure and traction on my custom pinball / hockey jerseys that I am in the process of making. If you guys could comment it would be greatly appreciated. I've got about 6 jerseys in development. Come visit and drop a comment.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinball-hockey-jerseys-and-hats

jerseys-funhouse (resized).png

Anyone have a part number or Marco link to the correct screws for the ramp flap? They are tiny enough that the heads on them sit down into the holes through the plastic and end up being flush so not to catch the ball on the way by.

Likely a #4- 1/2" screw.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4104-01042-08

Awesome! Thanks a lot.

I am considering upgrading my Funhouse translite to one of the fancy backglasses. I understand these are 3/16" thick and do not come with the plastic sides nor top nor lift channel. You provide those yourself. Anyone know exactly which trim pieces fit the best? Marco part numbers? There is mention of needing to use friction tape as well, whatever that is?

System 11 trim.

Read my adventures here with links to the parts needed:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cpr-backglass-trim

Wow thanks. I had no idea. Appreciate the link.

I found an issue when taking my power driver board out for modifications.

Attached is a pic of J120 and J121 which are supposed to be wired the same (from left to right:white/purple -- white/green -- white/yellow -- white/orange -- white/brown -- purple -- green -- (key) -- yellow -- orange -- brown

As you can see from the picture I have all the wire colors, but many aren’t duplicates when you compare 120 to 121 and 120 is a thinner gauge wire than 121

The GI lighting works fine, is all LED, and I plan to repin j120 to clean up the hack, but should I worry about the missing wires?
IMG_2671 (resized).png

No - one connection is for the backbox, and one is for the playfield. They don't always have the same GI strings run to them. The two plugs J120 and J121 are wired exactly the same, so that you can flip those two wire harnesses, and not run into a problem. The manual (not schematics) should have the proper wires used on each plug there.

Looking for some Rudy eyelids if anyone has an extra set. Thanks

Scratch that. PPS has some in stock.

The FH 4-way combo is one of if not THE most satisfying and gratifying combos in pinball.

I've noticed several Rudy head parts are back in stock. I've bought everything internal new (even the motor which I suggest everyone does) with exception to the eye balls. I held off on those because the replacement head pieces require painting and I think I'll hire a professional air brush artist to do those. Haven't lined anything up yet but once I do I'll order the heads and eyes together. I've seen some of the painted Rudy head jobs and ... well ..... they certainly do not look like the original in a very bad way.

I got Modfather to do an original look rendition.
I like it and it looks pretty good, but it in no way looks like an original Rudy.

Let me know if you get any traction on this.

Pinsider Jjsmooth has done some really good work on the Rudy faces and has posted the correct colors.

They look fantastic!

Thanks for the info. I'm actually dreading this because I'm super anal. If I have to stare at something that doesn't meet my standards it'll send me over the edge lol. I say to each their own, but the OEM (to me) looks much better than the super high def Modfather model. There's just a certain charm in simplicity and air brushing is the only way you're going to get that smooth brushless look with fading color. This is starting to feel like WH20 topper territory.

Can you post a link for the motor? We’re these hard to find at some point?