I could use a translite also if there's one left over after aamauzy gets what he needs. Pm me if interested. Thanks

Thanks for the replies, y'all. I'm working out a deal with bsbdmd83, so I think I'm in going to be in good shape!

Nice pickup. My Fish Tales translite looked just like that and same thing happened when I tried to clean it. Think there is a very particular way you are supposed to clean these so you have to be careful. Ended up just buying a new one.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-club/page/61#post-6431781

I did a playfield transfer some time ago and have an upper flipper alignment question. In most FH machines I have played, if after hitting the ball in the loop with the upper flipper and opening up the trap door, one has to only hold the left flipper on, the ball will come around, hit the open flipper and go into the trap door.

That is what mine did before the new playfield.

Now, when I open the trap door with the loop shot, I have to let go of the left flipper and time my hit to make the open trap door. That is a far more difficult shot.

Does anyone know of the proper alignment for the left flipper? Maybe I have the wrong coil stop installed? - will have to check that.

I have had 8 Funhouses and never have seen this work consistently, but they all had restored playfields.

Its always been a skill shot based on timing, similar the the loop shot on Doctor Who.
Some games are more difficult than others, but they all seem to work just fine.

Mine functions as you describe.. make the loop, keep holding the flipper.. and you'll typically make the trapdoor assuming you had a decent shot to begin with / enough power.

Really enjoy this shot actually.. it's definitely not OP or anything either, as subsequent trapdoors require multiple loops, and this 'trick' only works for getting the ball into the trap door.. it does not have enough power by itself to complete a loop.

Didn't realize this was an exception. Can't imagine a PF would alter this beyond just the alignment of that upper flipper and perhaps the pitch of the machine.

Dont get me wrong, it works, but for me its not consistent.

That sounds to me like the flipper rotates farther than intended. And to get that to happen, you probably would need to have no or a very slim grommet for which the linkage rests. That’s the only consistent way to affect the total amount of rotation.

Different coil stops control the amount of "throw". You can even file new ones down to match a worn stop.

Worn flipper mechs with worn stops and plungers, have more travel than rebuilt ones.

People get used to that amount of travel and often complain that rebuilt or new mechs dont play the same as what they were used to, and something is wrong lol.

A newly rebuilt "upper left flipper bat" wont have the same angle (less of an angle) when actuated, than an old used one.

Hence the discrepancy between old and new.

The rubber grommet affects throw too. Just from the other end. Try it if you don’t believe it. Take the rubber grommet out or put a flat mashed down one in. Then adjust your flipper for the correct rest position and then watch how upright it is at flip. It’s substantial.

I just tried this holding left flipper trick on my game and it doesn’t do what they described. Only use for that is to hit the super dog targets off a plunge. Does nothing for hitting the trap door.

The rubber grommet tab is meant to bent in or out as an adjustment.
Changing it out for a fresh one is always good, but then you can make adjustments.

It absolutely changes the throw.

I don’t think we’re talking about the same rubber part…

I am taking from your discussions, the rubber grommet (or plug) that the mech rests on when the flipper is not activated. I adjust the flipper bat on that for the correct angle at rest.

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-rubber-bumper-pluggrommet.html

I was thinking that your comment was incorrect, but I think you have a point. If that rubber grommet plug is worn or crushed, then I would adjust the flipper bat at rest for a different position than if the new bumper was there. Since the starting point is different, the activated or end point would be different.

But the coil stop would also change the end point of the flipper. So I need to check both.

I did the playfield transfer so long ago that I don't remember if I replaced that grommet, but will check.

I was told that all the FH work this way, or should, by a friend who played FH when it first came out.

I need to make a slo mo video to see why the shot is not going into the trap door by holding the flipper open. It did so reliably prior to the transfer. I was thinking that the pinball in my new and waxed playfield was making the loop at a higher speed and throwing off the geometry, but now think that assumption is wrong too.

it could also be the "thickness" of the bands as well...on my TSPP, the itchy and scratchy hole the ball would eject and then bounce the ball right back in....when I changed out the bands to titans...now it never happens...could also be affected by the ball rail that feeds the flipper...can't recall the exact ajustment of that rail...but all these things could have an impact on that ball travel...

Hi all getting close to the finish line of my restore and have a few questions.

1) Has anyone with the repro ramps decided to forgo the cliffy ramp protectors? I was thinking to hold on all the other protection except the center ramp but now that I am getting into it and see I’m going to need to drill new holes in the ramps I am wondering if it’s worth it. My games get very little play in my house. Also noticed Chris at HEP doesn’t install them from the completed games I have seen.

2) Can I use incandescent flashers with LEDOCD and GIOCD boards? I really hate these LED flashers. They are so bright and focused they look terrible on funhouse so far and they are so finicky with the wire connections I keep seeing a new one that needs readjusting. Thanks.

Question 1 . Hell yes!

Hell yes forgo them or hell yes install them?

Lol! Yes install them !

1. I initially put them all on my Starship repro ramps, but eventually took off just the one at the steps ramp on the left (Left shooter shot) as it made the entry very narrow since the repro ramps are a lot thicker. I left the one at the main ramp as it never caused rejects.

2. Yes as I confirmed with the creator that incandescent flashers are fine and think the flashers aren’t linked to any of the boards (last part is an assumption).

Congrats on nearing the end of the restore, such a satisfying feeling. Don’t be like me and remove all the switch wires to clean thinking you can install them back anywhere, OUCH, and that’s how I learned that all switches have their own unique adjustment

Flashers are on a completely different circuit than the controled lamps and GI lighting....so the descision is personal preference...I've got away from the led flashers as well as they are just too bright...my only worries with the standard flashers is if the transistor locks on and it heats up under an insert and melts it..but I would normally see this before it gets out of hand...but others may not...I have cliffy's on my playfield, and yeah the steps ramp I'd leave off as well as I do get some rattling entering the steps ramp sometimes...

I agree the LED flashers available today are too bright. Has anyone come up with a good way to dim the LED flashers? Maybe put some tinted material over them or something? I might buy some and experiment. I'm not going back to classic flashers due to their heat and high current draw.

Absolutely. I have both ocd boards and incandescent flashers. No issues. I totally agree about led flashers. I used to use led flashers but stopped. They are all too bright and just ends up being waste of money. I used 1smd warm white bulbs and used the ocd software to balance the brightness of inserts. Game is less dim than my other led games but that was my goal.

For finicky leds, bend the wire contacts out at like a 45 degree angle. That helps them make better contact.

years back on the TAF forum, I recall people using something like rice paper and inserting it in a circular pattern in the flasher dome to diminish the intensity of the flash....

You can paint LED flasher lamps with this to dim them down a little:

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-1903830-Frosted-Glass-Spray/dp/B0009XCKBA/ref=asc_df_B0009XCKBA/

You can also tape off with a square of gorilla tape or paint over any elements you dont want to see if they are flashing in your eyes.

For instance, paint or tape over the front elements and leave the rears.

Hi to all and TIA for any assistance. I have searched this forum and other pages for weeks before posting. Fuse 101 blows on pressing left flipper button and I cannot, despite my best efforts, work out why. Wiring seems fine. I have resoldered switch wiring. Are there any components eg capacitors on switch and/or coils or diodes on coils that I should be replacing? Any suggestions appreciated.

Could you post some photos of the flipper button switch from the inside of the cabinet with the playfield raised?

Then see if you can remove the apron and get a view of the switch leaf ends while the playfield is down again. My first thought is that the leaf switch ends are pushing into something and causing the short.

I don't think a shorted leaf switch would cause a fuse to blow. Sounds more like a coil or wiring issue related to the coil. I'd open a ticket with pinball brothers and see what they recommend. I'm guessing a problem with either the left upper or lower flipper coils.

You can also buy some Light Dims (light dimming sheets), they offer both pre-cut sizes and sheets you can cut to size. Have not used them in a pinball machine yet, but they work well for dimming too-bright LEDs in other environments.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009WSJNCW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00

The fuse blows on pressing left flipper button when playfield is down and up. I will have another look at both coils. Thanks Alex and Brado

Make sure the switch is wired correctly.

If its the only switch that does this, it might be shorted directly to ground "somewhere".

Unplug the flipper switch connector from the driver board. Unplug the flipper assembly from the driver board.

Test the wires with the game "off", with an ohm meter from each end point connection to the ground braid. it should give NO reading since its not plugged in to anything.

However, each wire tested end to end should have continuity.

This will verify that the wires are NOT touching ground.

Agree with this. Please post images of the flipper mechanisms. Specifically the solenoid and the solenoid wiring.

I must be missing something obvious here as I don't understand why Pinball Brothers would have anything to do with this.

Sorry.... I thought I was replying in the Alien thread. I still wouldn't think the Funhouse flipper switches would cause a fuse to blow. You can try calling Williams for support. hehehehe

Agree. The flipper cabinet button (switch) is part of the path to ground. Even if the switch is stuck on, the current draw should flow through the hold winding and not blow a fuse.

On Funhouse the upper left flipper is attached to the lower left flipper.

There is no test for it. It just flips when the lower left is actuated. Its not separate.

i would check out the upper left flipper mech and coil. See if the diodes are good on the coil or if the coil is wired backwards.

If its wired backwards from the lower one or has bad or backwards diodes, it should blow the fuse.

It should be possible to disconnect the upper left flipper (unsolder the coil wires and tape them up) and see if the fuse blows when the button is pressed.

Conversely if the upper left is hooked up correctly, one can disconnect the lower one and also see if the fuse blows.

So looks like it is the lower left flipper coil. Nothing to note on visual inspection but tested as shorted and when removed, upper left flipper works and fuse does not blow. I will get a new coil and report back on installation. Does the fact that the coil failed alert as to possible issues I should examine? Thanks to all for your kind advice.

I dont think any other issues would be related.

Coils break when they want to. There is no rhyme or reason for it.

Just test the new coil before installing it to be sure its good.

Check the resistance of the new col aginst the coil resistance chart.

I have bought coils that are out of spec recently and had to correct them.

https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html

<facetious>Nothing to note on YOUR visual inspection.</facetious>

If you want a second opinion, you should post an image of your mechanism including wiring.

You should probably also mention HOW you are testing to reach the conclusion that there is a short. I have found recently when people report findings they are measuring incorrectly so they are making decisions on incorrect data. Garbage input = garbage output. It could be the diodes that are shorted. That's a $0.01 fix. Replacing the solenoid can be a $15 fix - if that even fixes your problem.

I just dealt with a Funhouse flipper issue at the recent Northwest Pinball and Arcade Show. I messed around with the EOS and gaps and stuff like that for about 5 minutes before I finally reached the diagnosis that it was the flipper diodes. A $0.02 fix as both diodes were replaced. The fix was applied before the show opened and no further complaints for the entire show.

OK so you were spot on. Upon testing solenoid with diodes removed, it tested good and diodes were duds. New diodes on coil and I now have 3 working flippers. Thanks for good advice. Saved me some bucks. Problem now is that bottom left flipper is very weak. The battle continues…
Filing the EOS switch contacts fixed that. I am back in action! Thanks all for replies and advice.

But NO! Just when you think you are safe. Now I am getting an intermittent loss of and return of power??? Damaged or loosened something during flipper repairs? Help please!!!

Reseating connectors seems to have done the trick. I am back in the Funhouse!

Anyone have any ideas about this mantis protector? Seems to be too wide for either inlet.. Presume this is the one for the front scoop.

20230611_164336 (resized).jpg

Putting my Funhouse back together after a long restoration. I just realized that my playfield pivots seem wrong/incomplete.

Pictured here is what I’ve got: two carriage bolts (both of which look like they’ve been acting alone as pivots). One unthreaded bushing, one standard nut and washer.

What am I supposed to use here?

IMG_3013 (resized).jpeg

Bolt thru the cabinet.

Black washer on the inside of the cab, on the bolt.

Place the 1/2" pivot bushing onto the bolt.

Place the nut on the bolt and tighten it all together.

Or, get shorter carriage bolts and buy the slotted pivot nuts.

They are tightened by using a big flat blade screwdriver into their slots, no nut needed.

Look up the way TAF is assembled.

If you can zoom in maybe this pic will help. I can take a closer pic later. Hope it helps

IMG_7017 (resized).jpeg

Thanks for the prompt, helpful responses. I think I’ll go with the slotted nuts like on Addams. Seems like it would make it easier to install the playfield vs. the “sandwiched” bushing method.

Yep, its a better system over all.

Hi all!

Picked up a Funhouse to restore. Not new to this forum but have a hard time to figure out the right cabinet colour code. Yes, I found US paint colour codes on this forum, but not something the European paint makers can translate into a nice Funhouse blue...

Can someone please help me with this (recurring) forum question?

I did found out it must be high gloss, is that assumtion correct?

Cheers!
AAC8865C-72D7-4986-93B3-F788554CB2E0 (resized).JPGB5AA608A-D009-4777-824D-E9EE666F77EA 2 (resized).JPG

Addon:

Found RAL 5002 high gloss to be a great match!

Wrapping up rebuilding a Funhouse project. My actuator for the switch in Rudy’s mouth is either incorrect or broken off - it’s waaay too short. Doors anybody know which actuator/switch assembly amongst the many options at Marco is the correct one?

What part is it in the manual?

EDIT: I misread, I see now you want just the actuator. I needed the whole switch.

I just replaced the same in mine, this is what PBL sells based on the part number in the manual.

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-sub-microswitch-5647-12693-43.html

Thanks - that looks correct. Interesting that the part number in the manual is different. Entering the number from the manual at Marcos pulls up nothing. Entering at pinballlife gives you what you linked. Marco sells the same switch assembly. I like pinballlife except when I’m in a rush. Marco tends to be pricier but usually ships way faster.

IMG_3067 (resized).jpeg

Its likely the completely wrong switch.

I would just get the whole switch to be sure.