Are the plungers the same length?

Yes, I measured fully extended and they both protrude the same exact distance, the issue appears to be when they are at rest against the rubber grommet. There is about a 1.5 - 2 mm difference for some reason even though the grommets look identical.

Are the bats the same length?

Yes

Is there debris in the coil sleeves?

There wasn’t and I even just replaced the sleeve.

Do you have the right coil sleeves?

Yes, there is no space or anything off, the new ones were the same size and shape as the original ones I just replaced.

I also went ahead and readjusted both of them so they are now both exactly the same in terms of how far down they both go into the pawl or whatever that thing is called where you tighten them up. That maybe helped by .5 mm, but still uneven when they are both fully extended. Meaning I can either have them even at rest or fully extended.

I’m tempted to go back to the old flippers and just clean them up.

This is such a pain but appreciate everyone’s help to get this last thing resolved.

I think you are saying that when the flippers are engaged, that both the right and the left flipper are aligned at the apex of their flipper position. Yet, when the flippers are not engaged and are in their resting position, one flipper is resting slightly higher than the other. If all that is correct, the likely culprit is the metal plate the grommet is in, the grommet that the pawl rests on when not engaged. Look at each metal plate and adjust (bend) the plate in/out a hair to allow each flipper to rest at the same position. Doesn’t take much.

That’s my guess.

Ok, will try that. I actually have them aligned in the resting\disengaged position, but I think it’s still that grommet position that is causing this because the other end with the coil stop are almost identical.

Thanks for the help.

Well I went and measured the distance from the bottom of the coil to the top of the bottom bracket (where grommet is installed) and:

Right - 59.1mm

Left - 51.0mm

So that makes sense and would cause this slightly further throw on one flipper vs. the other.

I then tried to see if I could slightly bend back the Left one to match the Right and it didn’t budge one bit. So that leaves me to having to remove it and try a better way to bend it.

Before I do that, I still have the old mounts and coil brackets, so might experiment with those first before trying to kill myself trying to bend it back.

It might be a while before another update.

Thanks again everyone for the help.

I have seen this before on Gottlieb and Zaccaria games.

The flipper base plates are NOT precision and are meant to be adjusted by the end user by bending.

Basically they are formed at the stamping facilty, and then thrown into a box roughly, until the box is full.

a crescent wrench works well to bend the back plates.

Choose the one that is closest to square and bend the other one to match the throw of the bat, or bend them both a little at a time until the flipper range is matched.

Thanks my friend, didn’t even think of a crescent wrench. That is definitely the quicker\easier option vs. putting one together from my old parts. I just hate to keep loosening the flipper bats as I know they really aren’t meant to be repeatedly loosened and tightened, but fingers crossed and worse case I’ll just order a rebuild kit, but thinking of trying out one of Steve’s rebuild kits from PBR.

I’ll report back when I have time to experiment, hopefully tomorrow as being this close to being done and moving forward with just regular maintenance is my goal as for some reason this flipper alignment has always put a dampening on being fully satisfied with my restore.

Appreciate the help.

Edit sorry didn’t look at it properly ignore me

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Edit. Cancel my last didn’t look at it properly

Ok, I am usually the last person to say "THAT'S IT, IT"S FIXED" as a fear of jinxing it, but I think I have fixed\resolved the alignment issue and below is what I did.

First thing I did was go to the old mounting brackets that were the originals and measured the distance between the coil bracket and the end bracket (with the grommet) and they were both pretty consistent around 54.4 mm. Next I went in and measured the ones currently installed and sure enough, the left side was about 55.4 mm while the other was around the 54.5 mm. So I loosened the left flipper bat and took the crescent wrench out and got to work, trying my best to evenly bend back the one on the left from all angles. I would bend a little, and then check the alignment. I didn't have to do it much, but once I got to a point where it was close, I stopped. While I was doing flipper work, I went ahead and adjusted the left upper flipper as the flipper bat wasn't as far down in the clamp as the others.

The real confirmation was the gameplay test and WOW, I had no idea how bad it was before with the flippers not fully pushed into the clamp as well as the alignment. They were snappy again and consistent and I was hitting shots like I did before the restore in the normal spots on the flipper which is GREAT, but now I have to relearn the shots LOL which I am more than happy and now excited to do. It feels like a different game, the game I used to play before the restore, the game I enjoy, the game I can play all day any day. I'm not saying that I didn't enjoy it before I resolved this issue, just saying with all the work I put into the restore, it kinda fell short somewhat in the gameplay department and even had me contemplating selling it, well I'm good now

You can see the pics I attached, is it perfect, of course not, does it look uneven when at rest or fully engaged at certain angles, of course, but when playing and looking down as well as the tops of the flipper bats, its A LOT better and looks even enough for me compared to how it was.

As much as I always dreaded fixing\adjusting the flippers, I feel this was a blessing in disguise as I was able to get a lot more comfortable with working on flippers mechs, adjusting, etc. and learned that it is critical to have these adjusted right. Was it THAT bad before, of course not, but it just felt like something wasn't right and it didn't feel like the same game I had before the restore. It looked amazing, but the gameplay wasn't amazing, but now I feel they are both on the same level.

Anyway, sorry to ramble, but I do hope that my experience and everyone's help will perhaps help someone down the road. I now know to look for these types of additional flipper details and nuances. I always dreaded doing anything with flipper maintenance\adjustments, but now I feel confident that it's actually something I will have no issues with in the future.

Well I can't thank everyone enough for the help and hope everyone has a great and safe day.

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Is there a trick to testing the lock switches on the topside of the playfield with a ball without removing the ramp?

Thanks

Could you put it into switch edge test so you can hear when a switch is activated then lift the playfield pull the switch down from underneath?

I can test from underneath, but it doesn't mean a ball will activate the switch. It is always better to test with an actual ball.

Is there a way to adjust the strength of coil for Rudy's Hideout behind his head? The ball shoots out of there so fast, and if you don't get the upper flipper on it, it goes straight down the middle.

Got the right coil in there? It's fast but you should have some time to react to it. If its the right coil then flip faster

One thing you can do is put a rubber ring or two on the coil plunger. I did that on my Whitewater mine kickout to slow things down.

My apron is roached. Is Classic Arcades the only place that sells the apron stickers? If so then how do they look?

Thanks

These are the best by far:

https://www.treasurecovepinball.com/Library/decals/funhouse/funhouse.htm

Powder coating the apron with 60% sheen "plain stock black" looks really good.

For duability I have had the best results with satin black epoxy paint, satin black urethane and powercoating.

Paint the shooer cover when you paint the apron.

Thank you! Didn't know treasure cove was still around.

I'm building up a Funhouse playfield from scratch, trying to obtain the rarest parts first. I'm designing a version of Rudy using servos to drive the eyes/eyelids, instead of solenoids. See thread here - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-scratch-built-rudy-with-servos-instead-of-solenoids

If anyone has Rudy's face/hair pieces taken off, can you take some measurements for me (per attached pictures) so I can build the right size frame for Rudy? I'm looking for the distance to the *edge* of various holes, not the center.

D1 (total Rudy depth) =
D2 (total height from playfield) =
D3 (lesser height from playfield) =
D4 (nyliner setback from front) =
D5 (distance from nyliner top to edge of hole) =
D6 (diameter of nyliner hole) =
D7 (distance from top to edge of 2nd hole) =
D8 (diameter of jaw strut) =
D9 (setback to back) =
D10 (distance to bottom) =
D11 (distance from face mount to top) =
D12 (setback from front) =
D13 (distance from hair mount to top) =
D14 (setback from front) =

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Bought a Funhouse that had these these handmade custom mirror blades from Pingraffix. They are beautiful but I have other plans for side blades, so I’m seeing if anybody wants to buy these? They are $375 new, I’m willing to take much less.

There is a scrape on one side as you can see in the picture and another two tiny scratches. These areas are hidden when the playfield is down.

Let me know if you’re interested.
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Can you use solidworks parts/assy? I have 50% of the head mech in solidworks

Actually all i have is this...

But i can work up the rest pretty quickly.

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I'm also in the process of locating hard to find parts and building a funhouse. I have my Rudy apart doing some work getting it ready for install. I should be able to get the measurement you need sometime this evening. Boblangelius is top notch and can get everything you need in SOLIDWORKS. He's great to work with. If you don't want to go his route let me know. I'll see what I can do

Thanks for the kind words, Charles. I guess i spoke too soon as all i have is the bracket as shown above. the holes for the coil stops are educated guesses as i'm not going to remove the stops to measure.

Calla, If you need more info let me know.

Wow thank you both BobLangelius and @codered9394. I could definitely use that solidworks file for Rudy’s head. I don’t need any of the other solenoid brackets etc since I won’t be using solenoids. I will need to figure out how to mount the jaw to the metal head. It seems like there are two internal standoffs within Rudy’s head that receive the plastic jaw mounts, and then c-clips. Are those standoffs welded to the main frame of Rudy’s head?

I’ll PM both of you as it sounds like you know a lot about hard-to-find funhouse parts. I am planning to build the ball guides mostly from scratch per vid’s guide. But I’ll also be looking for stuff like the entry ramp (A-14156) and other metal parts that aren’t available from mantis or elsewhere.

I’m starting with Rudy though, since it requires the servos and microcontroller as well as the metal and wood parts. I want to get Rudy built up and working to prove up the servo concept. Will share progress as I go.

I would like to buy a used or new Funhouse playfield with the goal of builing a Funhouse from scratch. All of the sources I have seen are sold out. Another option would be to cut a new playfield using CNC router but creating a CNC file from scratch maybe too complex without anothrt playfield to copy from. Does anyone have high rez images of the playfield? What would you recommend to get started?

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/155601
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1042-mircoplayfields/00458-funhouse-mirco-repro-playfield-

Get the Mirco one, its pretty good and accurate.

Lots of positive reviews on this one.

I am very interested in the servo method of controlling the eyes, I would of thought the metal box could be 3D printed as the servos are not going to break it apart. How do you plan in controlling the jaw ?

See my post in the other thread on this - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-scratch-built-rudy-with-servos-instead-of-solenoids#post-7549640

Hello - I recently acquired a Funhouse machine with the Rudy 2.0 upgrade, and have a technical question I was hoping someone could help troubleshoot. I had a ball get stuck near a switch above the flippers, and when I nudged the machine to free the ball, the lower GI lighting went out. I replaced fuse F106, and that fixed (temporarily) the issue. A few days later, I had the exact same thing when a ball got stuck and I bumped the machine. Replacing the fuse again got the lower GI lights back on. There must be a short somewhere that is causing the lights to go out when nudging, so wondering if anyone dealt with this type of issue before? The lights that go out are the 5 GI lights on lower playfield inside the slingshots. Thanks!

Separate issue I suppose to the fuse blowing and a potential short, but where exactly is the ball getting stuck? Balls should never get stuck like you've described, certainly not consistently enough to have it happen twice in a few days.

Take a picture of this location if you can and share here.

Thanks - I tried to recreate it in the attached photo. In the rare case where the ball is moving really slow, it stops just above a switch. I give the machine a little nudge to free up the ball, and 3 times now it resulted in the lower GI lights going out. I don't remember if it was that exact switch the ball was resting on each of the 3 times it happened, but most recently it was! If the fuse keeps blowing, there must be a bigger issue. Thanks for the help!

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Sounds more like a loose wire/connection in the back box GI connector j-120 or j-115.

It can also be a bad socket on one of the GI bulbs going short, or direct to ground.

Check for burnt connectors on the GI connections.

Pictures really help here.

Ok. Two things to check:

First, try and wiggle, nudge, bump, move your machine when the ball is no where near that spot and see if you can get the lights to go out. Leave the ball in the shooter lane even or the steps shooter lane if you want.

Second, if that exact spot is causing the short (and perhaps you can confirm whether the fuse is blown with a continuity test?) would be to look on the underside of the playfield. Because if by some crazy a$$ one-in-a-million chance, you might have a GI light string wire cut into and pinched against the bottom of either that post with the small rubber ring on it or the thin metal rail. Because maybe the ball is competing the circuit between the power side of the GI string and ground by way of either that rail or that post or perhaps that switch. Check underneath and post a pic or two for us to see.

Thanks - here is a picture from the backbox. I removed J-120 and J-115. J-120 looks good. It's hard to tell from the lighting, but J-115 does have some discoloration on the far left wire, and the 3rd from the right.

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Thanks - you are right, the ball had nothing to do with it! I put the ball in the shooter lane, and banged the machine around a few times, and the lower GI lights did go out after 4-5 bumps. I took a look under the playfield, and the only thing that stuck out as possibly abnormal is what I circled in the picture below. This GI bulb has an awful lot of wires running to it (1 purple + 1 white + 2 sets of 3 yellow wires). Is this a normal load for this lower GI bulb?

FH under (resized).jpg

Your connectors dont look too burned up, which is good.
You can see where those heavy wires (from your GI socket picture) go to in j-120.

The small yellow wires are correct.

I suspect that wires could be loose on the j-120 connector.

One of the many problems with the IDC type of connector is that the wires get loose and can just be cut thin to the point that they dont connect any more.

Press the wires firmly in with a credit card edge or small screw driver and see if the problem persists, or if the wires break off from wear.

If it is indeed a loose IDC connection, the proper repair is to replace the connector with the trifurcon type, but "in a pinch", you can also press a fresh area of wire back into the IDC connector.

You can also have a loose or barely connected wire on a GI string under the playfield.

Inspect them all and gently tug on them.

The j-121 connector goes to the back box lamp board, often these are burned up too.

As these games get old, its common to see that J-115, j-120 and j-121 have been replaced with trifurcon connectors.

I’d try banging lightly on the playfield in a systematic fashion until the lights went out and then looking REALLY closely at all of the wires in that area. Sometimes it’s something really subtle.

The wiring to the GI bulbs on my game isn't 100% identical to yours, but I think it's fine the way it is. The "source" wire pair for that string is the purple and white/purple one. Then it daisy chains on to the other GI bulbs in that same string.

I can't see from this angle if the tabs on either of those bulb sockets are touching the T-nut and/or metal post threaded in next to it, but you might want to just bend or rotate that out of the way slightly so there's no chance of it touching. Or slip a little piece of electrical tape between them. This slight contact could be what creates a short to blow your fuse. And might make sense that it only happens when you jostle the game around a little.

IMG_6275 (resized).JPG

Just picked up a Funhouse, love it.

I have the typical broken spot on the left lower ramp on the right side of the ramp entrance. I see that Cliffy used to make a metal repair piece for this. I can't seem to find it available, though. I do have a replacement ramp but if I put that in I'd want to protect that vulnerable spot anyway.

In the short term, is there a simple fix that people typically do for this? The broken spot is big enough it interferes with some ramp shots.

The Cliffys were the right fix.

Contact Cliff and see if he has it available.

He's a little behind in orders but catching up quickly.

Thanks... emailed him the other day from his site, no response yet. I'll have to wait and see if he responds.

I'm mostly asking in case I don't get a response.

He will get back to you it might take a day or so.

If not, email him a couple times.

Thanks - I pressed each wire in with a small flathead screwdriver on the J-115, J-120, and J-121 connectors. J-115 and J-120 looked good, but J-121 had a few connections that didn't look tight.

Thanks - the angle of my photo was misleading. There is plenty of distance between the bulb sockets and the T-nuts and metal screws near them in the section in the photo. BUT, on the other side of the playfield, one of the tabs on GI bulb socket under the "S" target (in STEP) was nearly touching the metal portion of the "S" target sensor. It's possible that was contacting the bulb socket tab when I was bumping the machine around. I bent the tab back a little to widen the gap.

Thanks all for helping troubleshoot this! I am on my last replacement fuse, so going to wait a few days before I start bumping it again to test if these items solved my issue! Just ordered some more fuses as backups. Thanks again, I am still relatively new to this, so slowly learning everything that can go (and eventually will go) wrong!

Those GI connectors run FULL time for the life of the game (when its turned on of course).

They take serious abuse and are a common fault point in most games.

The pins on the driver board also get cooked, turn brown and burn or melt off in extreme situations.

Installing the trifurcon style of connectors makes then run cooler as they have less resistance and touch the pc-board pin on 3 sides, instead of just a small area in the front of the pins.

Your GI IDC connctors look ok for now, but ultimately, in time they will get scorched.

Make a note to replace these at some point.

The trifurcon and IDC connectors are interchangeable as they use the same pins on the pc-board.

It would be good to examin the pins on the pc-board for brown scorching.

You can clean it off with a small Dremel wire brush if they are scorched and dark.
In a pinch you can gently scrape them with a #11 exacto knife to clean them up a bit.

I do have one I beleive from my Rudy 2.0 conversion.

I’ve got one as well.