I HAVE THIS ONE.....CAN BE ANY COLOR YOU WANT

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Has anyone ever tried rebuilding Rudy with Servos instead of solenoids ? There is a lot of modding Sound / Flasher / Lamp detection circuits out there to do the job. Having made some LED mods I think I may look into this would probably need a broken spare head for this rather that trashing my own.

Thanks for sharing.. that's a winner you've got there!

This same exact toy is 40 bucks at my local hobby shop

Absolutely true!!!

Is this correct? Funhouse cabinet speaker

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It is if you are replacing the speakers for bettter ones. The crappy original transducer/cheap ass speaker does nothing for me.

Otherwise, no.

Both the ends of the capacitors have to be connected/soldered together

Really? I would think a speaker wire would connect to each capacitor. Unless I’m reading that picture wrong, that speaker is disconnected right now.

How does one determine the correct capacitor size for this scenario? Why are they needed at all?

I was thinking so but did not know for sure. It seemed pointless not being connected.

Here is full view when in the cab

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I was just going to replace the speakers with a slight improved choice but everything I’ve seen is a significant upgrade. I don’t really want to spend $200 plus on new speakers for this game. I have an external sub I plan on adding to it.

Thanks for the full scale picture. Makes more sense to me now. Still curious about the need for/proper size calculation for this though.

is there something missing there?

This is a stock speaker hookup. My first WPC Alpha I’ve owned. I was assuming many have this same configuration with the capacitor

just solder the wires back together:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/purpose-of-pair-150-microfarad-caps-on-speaker#post-2682650

They are used as a high pass filter to filter out high frequenies to the bass speaker.

The right side of the speaker panel might have a small coil on the little transducer speaker to filter out the low end frequencies as a low pass filter. The left one was left as full range.

They used the 3 speakers as a high, mid, and low range.

These 2 added things (coil and capacitors) can give you a fuller sound, somewhat.

Great! Thanks!
I just came across this online basically what you just said

Pre-DCS Speaker Connections - Early Games

The back box speakers are wired in parallel, with an inductor in parallel with the right speaker (the tweeter); the inductor serves to shunt low frequency sounds away from the back box speakers. Technically, the inductor forms a first-order low-pass filter. This configuration presents an effective impedance of around 4 ohms; the actual impedance will vary with frequency, but that can be ignored for this application.

The cabinet speaker has a 68 MFD non-polarized capacitor in parallel with it; the capacitor serves to shunt high frequency sounds away from the cabinet speaker. Technically, the capacitor forms a first-order high-pass filter with a crossover frequency of 300 Hertz.

The back box speaker combination is wired in series with the cabinet speaker. This results in an effective load impedance for the amplifier of around 12 ohms (depending on the frequency). The black lead from the cabinet speaker is connected to sound board connector J504 pin 3; the black-yellow lead from the cabinet speaker is connected to the black lead from the back box speakers via an in-line connector. The black-yellow lead from the back box speakers is connected to sound board connector J505 pin 2.

Thank you all for the insight. I’m in the middle of restoring my first FH. This is one of a few things I’ve never seen before

I've been super intrigued about this Funhouse Mod from Pedretti gaming. I almost feel obligated to buy it since I own a Funhouse. But here are my concerns:

- I suspect that I'd try the new version, but end up switching back to and sticking with the classic version
- Classic version of the mod doesn't look as good with the LCD screens
- Sound board is replaced with a replica. Would audio be the same and as satisfying? YOU BIG.... SAUSAGE!
- $2,000

I guess my main concern is I'd buy it, install it, and then only play the classic version... and then the classic version would seem more like a replica rather than the real original thing.

I'm wondering from those of you who bought it, how often do you play the new vs. classic version? Do you find the new version as fun and re-playable as the classic version? I played the new version at Texas Pinball Festival and I wasn't sure.... I didn't like the new Rudy voice as much and it didn't have the sinister quality that I enjoy with Funhouse... but I only had a few minutes with it.

The pinsound system sounds pretty good and supports an added shaker motor as well as a bigger subwoofer for the lower cabinet.

IMHO, the shaker is a must have! It totally modernizes the game.

Sadly for $2000 the shaker motor and a better subwoofer is not included.

I bought the kit and its really good!

The screen looks very much like a PinLED (that I have) in version 1 and plays is the same as always.

Version 2.0 is very different and tons of fun!

With the upcoming add-ons and coding, the game will become very modern in version 2 mode and classic in version 1.

Im not sold at all on the backglass, I prefer my CPR glass.

But the artblades might give one a decent "hybrid" feel to the game.

I do like the new mystery mirror, its really nice and easy to read.

2.0 is really good. They just did another update and it makes a big difference. Plus the support is excellent. You've got the forum post, and they have guys who will reach out and even do a video call to help.

Would be nice to see some mods for FH now, with the renewed interest. Aside from the lampshade mod, there's nothing I believe.

Aside from the screens being updated, 1.0 plays identical.

No wonder I was confused. Mine came to me without them! I guess that means my lower cabinet speaker is getting the full range audio signal, not just the low stuff?

I think you are correct. I noticed the replacement speaker kits for Funhouse also has the inductor or capacitor whichever it is lol.
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The cabinet speaker is providing the bass frequencies, so usually has some kind of passive low pass filter attached to allow only low freq to pass to the big speaker. LP filters can be made with an RC (resistor and capacitor) or RL (resistor and coil inductor) configuration. They essentially do the same thing and keep the higher frequencies from being produced by the cabinet speaker. I think most pinball speaker replacement kits using the RL style filter, like the one pictured above.

A full tutorial can be found here:
https://www.electricaltechnology.org/2019/01/passive-low-pass-filter-types.html

I rolled my own speaker upgrade kit based on the following:
http://www.dziedzic.us/wpc_speaker_replacement.html
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-speaker-upgrade-questions#post-6470777

Pyle PL31BK
Pyle PL53BL
Dayton Audio DC200-8
Dayton Audio L-PAD 260-252
Installation Solution HC-101 Subwoofer Crossover

If you are only wanting to do 1 pin, then IMHO you can get away by skipping the Pyle PL53BL speakers and just use both of the smaller Pyle PL31BK for the left and right side speakers... it is all mono anyway. I purchased enough parts to do 2 pins for less $$ than what I paid for a kit I put in my WW, and it sounds just as good of an upgrade to me.

Nice! Thanks!

Just finished my cab clear coat and coin door.

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Your not leaving those wimpy corner braces on are you???

No, all of my new parts are patiently waiting for the paint to fully cure.

Thanks!! It got really cold here. I had to heat the garage up and build a plastic tarp paint booth.

I played the new version at the Houston show last weekend. Not impressed. I love the original even though it's a simple game. The kit just feels like a poor replica and I agree that it would be a downgrade to play the original game with the kit.

I was excited about 2.0 initially, but after playing it I lost all interest. That combined with the ongoing buggy nature of it nailed the 2.0 coffin for me. Yes, the development team appears to provide great support. I would be concerned about purchasing a 2k product that requires so much support.

Funhouse is a masterpiece as it is. Simple? Repetitive? Yes, like so many great other games. Stable? Fun? Energizes me and makes me smile? Yeah, I’ll take that any day.

That sums it up very well... Funhouse is already a masterpiece. I don't want to alter a masterpiece. You wouldn't modify the smile of the Mono Lisa!!

I guess I'm not alone in my reluctance to acquire this mod. It sure is awesome that someone went through the trouble to make it, and I feel like I should support them for that. I just like the original game too much to change it that much.

It depends. I didn't change anything other than the screens. The updated code is interesting for what it is, and it has some fun ideas to it. It feels incomplete though. BUT, and this is a big but, I haven't installed the lastest firmware because it seemed problematic. I think some of my complaints are addressed in it, but not all of them yet. The animations for v2 are great, the voice takes a bit to get used to, but if you realize the theme here is that Rudy is asleep and dreaming, the voice isn't really an issue.

One benefit of this to me is that my version of FH couldn't upgrade past a certain point and this allows me to get the latest FH code which is actually a bonus. The LCD implementation of v1 is just basic. There also seem to be some volume issues with v1 where the music is louder than Rudy in most cases (may be fixed in new code).

This may not seem like a glowing review, but if you love Funhouse, I don't see why you wouldn't want to get this. I don't think I would buy a Funhouse 'just' to get this mod though. Get a Funhouse because you like Funhouse, and get this for some additional play. It is still being worked on so it will improve and/or get additional content as time goes on. For what games cost these days (or even mods), this is pretty cheap. I do think they should offer just a board/screen combo without the translite/art which might give it a lower price point, but not a huge deal.

My FH will not be getting 2.0. Ive played enough of it and dont care for it.

Now if they can get Ed Boon to record the Rudy voice instead of the current voice (which is awful IMO) AND get the jaw to match the speech then I would be interested. But those two issues are enough for me to not want it.

anyone have one of these or know where to find one...........a friend just got a funhouse missing this hard to find part

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I dont think its been remade yet.

Can anyone get the measurements for the playfield back board. Starting my build and need to make this part. Thanks

I was going to have it made at one point, and even drew it up for a machine shop to get started, in post #3756, but never went any farther. I suspect a shop with the right punch, cutter and break could make this pretty easy in 303 stainless.

I usually draw up oddball parts in Freecad and have them made at sendcutsend.

They have very fair prices.

I could draw it up in Solidworks and provide you with flat blanks if you could give me the finished dimensions

It sounds like a fun project, but I wont have any time until next year.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-club/page/46#post-5865375

They are all gone. I have one set front and back... never installed... pm me

Could you give me a hint where the speech is not in sync with the jaw movement? I thought we sorted this out a long time ago...

There was an out of sync promo video leading to a false impression...

It is adjustable though and will happily be fixed if spotted. Just let me know.

I would have to play it again. Last time I played was in October at PAGG.

DRAWN UP IN SOLIDWORKS SHEET METAL

PinBallDrop.pdf

That's great! Thank you for sharing.

Unbelievable!!!! It's pretty amazing what you have done for FH owners. That part has been impossible to find forever, and this provides some hope of a source for them.

i can provide the above file as a PDF.....DXF.........or Solidworks drawng file or solidworks 3-d file.........send me a PM with your email address

Can you post a google drive link to the files?

I want to change the bend lines to another color in inkscape and get a quote from cutsendcut.

DXF or saved solidworks work/image files are best that can be imported to other programs.