Wonder what a Really Clean Funhouse goes for in Today's market?

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There's one local to me for $11,500.

ebay.com link: itm

It's a crazy market. I have a pretty nice one with mirco playfield, zinc plated scoops, lots of new stuff and I was offered 12k.
If someone with too much money wants mine, 15k is my magic number

Funhouse is such a great game. There's no way I'd sell it for $12k, $20k, or $30k... unless I was going to take that money and buy another Funhouse and pocket the difference. hehe

Freshly "high end" restored 100% new condition, with no compromise games, with less than 10 test plays on them are going for $14.5K

Add in the funhouse 2.0 mod, $16.5K.

Mine is almost ready to sell.

Shopping out my FH and found this plastic piece behind the trapdoor (above the green lane) that appears to be cracked. Does anyone know the part number for this or know where it can be sourced? Can't find it in the manual. Is it even supposed to be here?

Or is it something I should just make from some thin acrylic?

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*EDIT* I found it. Marcos #03-8502. Out of stock...so maybe I have to make it.

My game has the same so I assume it is originally there
Do not have a source for it

Upkick Pinball in Texas can duplicate the shape and slot. The only thing he may not be able to do is the thin shaved edge that the hinge attaches to.

About that thin shaved end where the hinge attaches to... what would be the best way to do this at home? I have this loop floor plastic, but it doesn't have the tiered end to go under the hinge so that it ultimately sits flat. I have a Dremel and a variety of accessories, but usually use it for removing rusty fasteners on an old car and not precision work on pinball plastics.

Is it feasible to think any of us could carve out this small section on an otherwise new plastic piece to get it the way it was meant to be? I believe the trap door plastic piece needs to be cut in the same way if that's also on the replacement list.

I'm a new owner of a players condition FH. The lock will sometimes kick out all of the balls. If this happens when the clock is at 11:45 or midnight. Then it resets the clock to 11:30. So the player essentially gets multiple balls on the playfield but the game mode is not in the multiball mode. This seems to happen because the balls get bunched up in the lock rather than staying in a nice straight line. Anyone else have this issue? Seems like it might be common. The lock disk is a little hammered out of shape. I may order one of those. Any other ideas?

Router. No, not the wifi thing.

F'n ridiculous. a 32 year old pinball machine that cost $2800 new, or a helluva nice late model used car with infinitely more practical use, AND a bona-fide asset!!
I'm still embarrassed to admit that I paid $6500 for mine (plus nearly $600 to ship it), in WAY above average original condition. $2300 MORE than the most I ever paid for any of my 11 other pins. Even if I had $14B to spend, I would never pay $14k for ANY pinball machine!! Flame on....

I thought I overpaid for mine at the time - $795 in 2000. Same reason you paid a premium for yours.

yes it is supposed to be there. It stops balls from rolling backwards through the trapdoor loop and feeds the ball to Rudys hideout instead.

If I recall correctly, I may have had this problem at one point and it was due to one or more of the 3 switches that detect balls in the lock not working. This was either because the rollover wire being bent wrong and not triggering the switch when down or because the switch was bad. I am not an expert by any means and so hopefully others chime in too.

When you say the balls are bunched up, I am not sure what that means or what would cause it. But that could also cause the switches to not work or register properly if something is allowing the balls to not be in the correct place to trigger the switches.

Yes, this is what I mean. If the balls go in the lock more gently they stay lined up nice and everything works fine. But if I fire a ball in there with speed when there are already two in there. Then they get out of line and the switches are probably not all made. At that point the game seems to know that something is wrong so it released all the balls from the lock.

Replace the switches.

Check and adjust the disc, or replace it.

If the disc is just slightly out of alignment and is probably set too low, the ball can fly over it.

The cutout in the disc has to be well above the center of the ball and the cut tip should be just past the lower edge by a slight amount.

also, you should find the older heavier conical return springs.

Im using one heavy and one lighter one. It seems perfect and the fastest balls dont go thru. 2 of the current "lighter ones" will also work.

The shaft end of the disc, ends up only protruding less than 1/16" out of the pawl. Its correct if it looks way too close to the end.

Agreed, something --- either ball position or the switches themselves-- is probably allowing the ball count to become wrong, which triggers that type of problem. I think in my case it was a bad switch or badly adjusted rollover arm.

Thanks guys. I will look into all those things. Have a great holiday weekend!

Honestly at the prices these are selling for .. What's stopping Chicago Gaming and Planetary from remaking alot of these.. I suppose theres a subset of Williams licenses.

Love to See Funhouse 2.0 , Whirlwind 2.0, Earthshaker 2.0 and other games come out. 6500 - 7500 and I bet they'd still be raking money in.

I suspect it's harder than it sounds. The intelligence of a remake has to be "ported" to a new CPU platform. That is what enables the new sets of rules, the bigger/higher resolution display, along with the RGB lighting used throughout. (Ported is probably the wrong word since I think the original behaviour and rules are ported, but the code itself is written from scratch). If they just wanted to duplicate the WPC95 platform, it would probably be easier in concept, but many of those kind of components have been out of production for decades. By the time ChicagoGaming worked around the chip-level replacement issues, they'd be starting from scratch anyway... The playfield/artwork/plastics/machinery/mechanisms/gadgets are all reproduceable, but the electronics is another matter...

With the new Pinsound and Pinsounds Williams Replacement MPU they are halfway there.

Really a versatile Power Drive board that can support RGB lighting (personally I'd rather have the oldschool bulbs)
would be the next steps. Wonder
if that is in the works. Kind seems hinted at .

Hey gang, does anyone have extras of these 2 clears (new) that they would sell me? I sure dont want to buy an entire plastics set to get them!

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Do you have the OLD ones? If so, they can be duplicated pretty easily by Upkick in Texas.

If you have the old ones, it’s pretty easy (though a little time consuming) to trace them out by hand onto new material then cut/drill them out. You’ll want to sand the edges to a smooth polish when done.

If you don’t have the originals, I’ll probably have used ones available in a couple weeks when I start tearing mine down for a full resto. You could use them as templates if you don’t have them already.

The one on the right isn't necessary in a home environment. I have played mine for a year without it and it looks so much nicer and uncluttered.

I do have the originals, and I have PETG and tools to replicate them... I'm being anal about my restore to be 100% complete and have the proper parts with the part numbers printed on them. I was able to source the couple of plastics I needed that weren't still perfect in my game (most yellowing), but nobody has the piece over the wireforms, the ramp cover is available from PPS, but between sales tax and shipping, its $25 for it, which is just stupid.

I just hate it when I find the perfect OEM part, only to find that shipping doubles the price out the door. Kinda makes you want to hold off and see 'what else' I can find. I guess it's the principle that I struggle with. Then I usually bite the bullet and order it alone anyway because how many spare screws or posts or targets or bulbs do I need? LOL

Personally, I think having the clear plastic without numbers inked in them is better than factory original. Some things may be original in style but inferior in quality.

Another option would be one of these: ebay.com link: itm

And if he can make these ones with the artwork on it from scratch, I'm guessing he could just make you one minus the artwork too. Couldn't hurt to ask him.

Well, I got a nice surprise today... My new main ramp showed up from SF, and I knew it came with the long ramp cover, but it also came with the piece that goes over the wireforms! So now I don't need that right away. i'll use it until I find a proper NOS or repro. I suppose now i'll just eventually order the small steps ramp cover from PPS, and suck it up...
Unless of course someone chimes in with some spares to sell me!

Mr. "FOSSMIN" to the rescue! He has both of the plastics for me, thanks for the feedback guys.

Started populating my new Funhouse PF.

Wondering if there are any tricks, upgrades that anyone recommends. I'm adding Cliffys to the PF and using the Post protectors that Pinball Monk designed.
Might add some lights to the out holes. Everything is getting freshened new coils and fixtures.. Trying to pull out all the stops.

Any Gotta do's?

Make sure the post opposite the upper flipper at the entrance to Rudy's mouth is tight. My game came to me after a new playfield install and I didn't think to check it, and some damage was done to the clear from that post moving slightly with every hit. I was able to cover it with a carbon fiber cliffy, but scared the hell outta me

LED's if that's not already assumed. I like not having the rubber bulb domes on the lights for the magic mirror. The coloured LED's for those are red up top for extra ball, green at the bottom for quick multiball and yellow for the ones in the middle. I also changed the bulb colours on the steps awards part to correspond with the blue, red, white flashers (blue for frenzy, red for extra ball and white for 500,000 points).

The game ROM goes up to L9 if you're interested. Going from L5 to L9 requires you move a soldered on jumper on the CPU board to allow for the larger ROM chip. The main difference with L9 is it added the "smart trap door" feature. This basically tells the game that it needs to see at least some other switch activated besides the trap door loop switch to qualify as a loop around and opening the door. What often happens is that when a slow moving ball goes through the loop and triggers that first switch, if it kinda slows down right after and comes back the same way to trigger the same switch again, it can raise the trap door right when the ball is over it and fling it up into the glass. The smart feature in L9 is supposed to eliminate that from happening.

Other than that, focus on the alignment of both plungers so that the ball comes out smooth and doesn't rattle off the sides errantly. The right side you can ensure this is smooth by putting a small shim (business card for example) behind the metal rail on the right that pushes it out just a little so to avoid the ball catching on the rubber rings that are ahead on the right side. Left side plunger misalignment in my experience comes from the plunger tip not being centred on the ball (depending on how and where the playfield comes down to rest) and less to do with what kind of ring or sleeve is on the outlane post.

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If you are pulling out all the stops, I recommend leds with both ocd boards. I used warm white bulbs and customized the brightness to exactly how I wanted it. That all gets expensive but fantastic results.

If you didn't like the colored covers try some incandescent colored bulbs up there on the mirror. They look so much cooler and authentic for that game than LEDs IMHO.

Even after swapping brass sleeves on Rudy's spring bar, his eyes still wouldnt return back to center very well. One direction was okay, but the other side was a bit lazy. So using a light spring 1" long, a longer 6-32 screw and a locknut, I was able to hook the spring on the right side of the spring bar and over the longer screw which results in a small amount of forward tension on the spring bar into the centering crank. This creates just enough force to SNAP the eyes back to absolute center each time and from either direction. I tried using one spring on each side, but found that only one is really necessary (and the small coils are in the way on his left side anyway. Maybe it helps others out.

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road show uses this spring in the slot of the centering bar to reduce friction......i added one to my funhouse......works great

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=01-13416

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As zerbam stated adding in the the road show clip reduces wear and creates more tension.

You can actually install it forwards or backwards. Backwards it makes the eyes "snap" into the center position.

Add rivets to the worn out eye hole links or replace the eyes with the new ones. Slight wear in the eyes link holes make the eyes seem lazy.

cosmokramer bought a big bag of the correct rivets to repair his worn eyes. I think they were 1/8" rivets and just needed a little trimming.
Shoot him a PM and he will hook you up.

No need for added springs.

Also dont forget to add in the trapdoor front stop bracket to keep the hinge from breaking. Its often missing.

It's missing because FH didn't originally ship with the bracket. It was a service bulliten part

(The trap door bracket that is)

I should have been clear on what I was responding to.)

I’m not picturing how this works in my head. Does anybody have a picture or illustration they can share to does how this piece fits in? I recently rebuilt Rudy and he works great, but I’m still curious.

This is great info, guys. I didn't know about this. I'm ordering and installing this part as soon as possible. I would love Rudy's eyes to snap back into place.

I'm also not clear on how/where this black piece mounts. I found this photo of Ted online and perhaps it's what I've circled in the photo? If so, I understand how it would put more centering force on the mechanism. That should be an easy part to sketch up & 3d print if I could see a clear photo of one. I really don't want to mail order a $2 part!
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Yes it helps a lot. So the black piece looks to be made of spring steel and is smaller and thinner than I was thinking it was. I guess I'll just order it

Hopefully someone else has had this isue and can help. Working on my first Funhouse. Rudys mouth was intermittently opening and closing both in gam and in test. Replaced the motor and that seems to have corrected the intermittent problem, however ( and this has been an issue since I got the machine), sometimes when the mouth is supposed to open formthe million shot or whatever, it only opens part way and leaves a small part still closed to make in not possible to make the shot. A slight tap on the mouth will set it down but its a real pain during play. I checked for binding of the jaw around the wooden cutout but nothing seems to be hittind. Anyone else faced this and have a suggestion.

Thanks in advance.

Check for missing teeth on the sector gear, and alignment of the gears.

I wouldn't be surprised if Rudy were missing teeth with that snarky attitude!!