(Topic ID: 64458)

Funhouse!? Club... (Fans welcome)

By mof

8 years ago


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There are 4,077 posts in this topic. You are on page 80 of 82.
#3951 60 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Good point!
But one never knows these days, the game might have a different CPU board than originally provided, and the w1 or w2 jumper might already be placed.
30 years is a long time to assume original parts.

True... Of course, check that the jumper isn't already moved. I guess it never occurred to me that the 128k rom might still work in a 256k configuration.

For anyone interested, I'm using a 512k EPROM (it was the only rom I had laying around) and programmed it to the last half (256k) of the EPROM's addressable space. It works perfectly.

#3952 60 days ago
Quoted from brado426:

You may already know this, but if you didn't, prepare for even more of a PITA than you anticipated because you'll have to remove your CPU PCB, unsolder and resolder a jumper to a different location to get your board to work with L-9. This is because L-9 uses a larger sized EEPROM.

Piece a cake! I'm already aware of those steps being necessary, and i'll also swap in a RAMTRON while i'm at it! I'm quite the board tech.
FTR, it has all the original, serial numbers matching boards.

#3953 60 days ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Piece a cake! I'm already aware of those steps being necessary, and i'll also swap in a RAMTRON while i'm at it! I'm quite the board tech.
FTR, it has all the original, serial numbers matching boards.

My flood victim FH was the same.

It had very few plays before the flood, matched serials all around. I was quite tickled to see that.

The backbox was fairly pristine., except the CPU board suffered a massive short and blew the ASIC since it was powered on during the flood. Chris Hibler brought it back to life better than new!

However, massive corrosion on the playfield and lower cab caused it to require a massive ground up resto.

#3954 60 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

My flood victim FH was the same.
It had very few plays before the flood, matched serials all around. I was quite tickled to see that.
The backbox was fairly pristine., except the CPU board suffered a massive short and blew the ASIC since it was powered on during the flood. Chris Hibler brought it back to life better than new!
However, massive corrosion on the playfield and lower cab caused it to require a massive ground up resto.

I just bought this recently, it took !%#&@! Beltmann a month to get it here, and ive had it almost a week. its in WELL above average condition for whats out there, and aside from every serial'd part matching, it has 100% original artwork with absolutely zero fade! There's no PF wear, but it has a mylar with some pretty serious insert bubbles that actually affect the ball travel quite noticeably... I havn't yet decided on how I'm going to address that...
I had to replace 2 TIP102's and a 107, and one fuse when it got here, but its working 100% now. I'm now getting my ducks in a row, preparing for a full teardown and comprehensive shopout.

#3955 60 days ago

Just to throw this out there if you didn't already know and something to check for. If you have the Sys-11 soundboard you can't go over L-5.

Now that I have 2.0 I can finally see 9.0....whenever I get it working correctly.

#3956 60 days ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

I just bought this recently, it took !%#&@! Beltmann a month to get it here, and ive had it almost a week. its in WELL above average condition for whats out there, and aside from every serial'd part matching, it has 100% original artwork with absolutely zero fade! There's no PF wear, but it has a mylar with some pretty serious insert bubbles that actually affect the ball travel quite noticeably... I havn't yet decided on how I'm going to address that...
I had to replace 2 TIP102's and a 107, and one fuse when it got here, but its working 100% now. I'm now getting my ducks in a row, preparing for a full teardown and comprehensive shopout.

A full mylar removal clearcoat will likely be all you need.

Sometimes you dont even need to re-clear it if the inserts are still flat.

#3957 60 days ago
Quoted from Zablon:

Just to throw this out there if you didn't already know and something to check for. If you have the Sys-11 soundboard you can't go over L-5.

I was not aware of that particular detail! thanks for mentioning it. But I do have a WPC sound board.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

A full mylar removal clearcoat will likely be all you need.
Sometimes you dont even need to re-clear it if the inserts are still flat.

The inserts are all level, but I wont play this game with a bare playfield, so i'll probably just replace the mylar. The real trick is getting the new mylar in the EXACT same spot, or find a way to get the exposed blue (by the return lanes) back to the pretty blue under the mylar... The exposed is just a tad darker, but not nearly as bad as you typically see.

#3958 60 days ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

I was not aware of that particular detail! thanks for mentioning it. But I do have a WPC sound board.

The inserts are all level, but I wont play this game with a bare playfield, so i'll probably just replace the mylar. The real trick is getting the new mylar in the EXACT same spot, or find a way to get the exposed blue (by the return lanes) back to the pretty blue under the mylar... The exposed is just a tad darker, but not nearly as bad as you typically see.

I just heavy cleared mine. I can sand it and re-clear it indefinitely.

No mylar needed with diamond plate or cleared playfields if you keep them waxed up.

that said I do really like these mylars for extreme wear areas:

ebay.com link: itm

#3959 59 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I just heavy cleared mine. I can sand it and re-clear it indefinitely.
No mylar needed with diamond plate or cleared playfields if you keep them waxed up.
that said I go really like these mylars for extreme wear areas:
ebay.com link: itm

Nice! I usually make those myself, but that looks easier! Thanks for the tip!

#3960 59 days ago
Quoted from Zablon:

Thanks. Oddly, I did that at pins 2/3 on J102 and was getting 0. But testing at the transformer does show 16V and now when I test again at J102 I see the 16V. Turns out one of my DMM's AC reading does not appear to be working(??).
So...now I'm back to needing to check BR4 and the cap there I guess.
EDIT: BR4 is showing 460 to 480ish across all which I believe is good. I'm not finding any continuity issues. I think that just leaves C11 as a possible culprit, but I just replaced all these caps a few years ago...hmm.
Would a bad cap cause TP7 to show barely any voltage? Probably going to replace both BR4 and C11 as I can't find any actual issues prior to those.

Replaced BR4 and C11 and no change. I'm at a loss here because this part of the board is pretty straight forward.
J102 goes to BR4 / F111 (2/3 respectively - showing 16v AC) after that there's the LED (off), TP7 (showing .6v)

Fuse tests good, but I can't figure out a good way to test if power is actually getting to the cap/bridge while it is in the backbox. There is continuity between the cap and the positive lead of the bridge. Continuity is good throughout that I see.

Scratching my head on this one....any thoughts?

Tried this bridge test (in diode mode) and my readings are nothing like what they have here. I get nothing on TP5 doing this test.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/File:TestingWPC-BR4-InSitu.gif

#3961 59 days ago
Quoted from Zablon:

Replaced BR4 and C11 and no change. I'm at a loss here because this part of the board is pretty straight forward.
J102 goes to BR4 / F111 (2/3 respectively - showing 16v AC) after that there's the LED (off), TP7 (showing .6v)
Fuse tests good, but I can't figure out a good way to test if power is actually getting to the cap/bridge while it is in the backbox. There is continuity between the cap and the positive lead of the bridge. Continuity is good throughout that I see.
Scratching my head on this one....any thoughts?
Tried this bridge test (in diode mode) and my readings are nothing like what they have here. I get nothing on TP5 doing this test.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/File:TestingWPC-BR4-InSitu.gif

so if the caps weren't removed with care, you may have ripped the via out, check continuity coming out of the cap on both sides of the board....those via's are thin there...

#3962 59 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

so if the caps weren't removed with care, you may have ripped the via out, check continuity coming out of the cap on both sides of the board....those via's are thin there...

Haha, yeah, just found a thread where that was the issue and took another look. I didn't think I did, but yes, that is what happened. C11 neg to B4 neg was bad. Fixed now. The cap was bad, so it wasn't all for nothing.

#3963 54 days ago

We had a request to run the Lift Crank Assy A-14160 ... it is now available ...

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-A-14160&Store_Code=PP

Team PPS

A-14060 (resized).jpg
#3964 54 days ago
Quoted from PPS:

We had a request to run the Lift Crank Assy A-14160 ... it is now available ...
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-A-14160&Store_Code=PP
Team PPS
[quoted image]

What is this for?

#3965 54 days ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

What is this for?

That’s the trap door arm

#3966 54 days ago
Quoted from chillme:

That’s the trap door arm

Thanks. Haven’t had any issues with mine. Maybe I get one just in case

#3967 53 days ago

Can someone tell me the color of wires on the power board at 120 and 121 for Gi lights? Or post a picture of each thanks.

#3968 53 days ago
Quoted from rickeve:

Can someone tell me the color of wires on the power board at 120 and 121 for Gi lights? Or post a picture of each thanks.

How about a chart ? https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems

LTG : )

#3969 53 days ago

I have 2 super dog lights out. The ones on either end of the hot dog. The 2 in the middle are working.The the 2 wires coming in to the first light are Red/Gray then the other light is connected by 2 yellow wires. Looks like a series. The wire solder connections are fine.Where do I go next to figure out what is wrong? I am a novice but trying to learn.Here is a pic. Thank you. Litz.

Super Dog lights (resized).jpg
#3970 53 days ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

I have 2 super dog lights out. The ones on either end of the hot dog. The 2 in the middle are working.The the 2 wires coming in to the first light are Red/Gray then the other light is connected by 2 yellow wires. Looks like a series. The wire solder connections are fine.Where do I go next to figure out what is wrong? I am a novice but trying to learn.Here is a pic. Thank you. Litz.[quoted image]

Those are your flashers...do they work in test mode? as they're not normally lit all the time

ok just re-read you post again...so did you just replace your bulbs with led's? did you bend the legs over a bit? are they flasher bulbs? The red/gray should be your controlled lamps, the other is the flasher (as I recall)...also looks like the solder tabs on the bottom flasher might be touching? hard to tell in the pic

#3971 53 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Those are your flashers...do they work in test mode? as they're not normally lit all the time
ok just re-read you post again...so did you just replace your bulbs with led's? did you bend the legs over a bit? are they flasher bulbs? The red/gray should be your controlled lamps, the other is the flasher (as I recall)

I will try them in the test mode. I have not done that. The LEDs were installed when I got the Pin. I will try to bend the legs. I don't know if they are Flashers bulbs but they may be. Thank you very much. I will report back.

#3972 53 days ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

I will try them in the test mode. I have not done that. The LEDs were installed when I got the Pin. I will try to bend the legs. I don't know if they are Flashers bulbs but they may be. Thank you very much. I will report back.

Yeah It's hard to explaing how to do the "bend" without a pic...but you just sort of roll that end of the wire coming out of the led off to the side to help it make better contact with the metal contact in the socket

#3973 53 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Yeah It's hard to explain how to do the "bend" without a pic...but you just sort of roll that end of the wire coming out of the led off to the side to help it make better contact with the metal contact in the socket

Yes they are flashers and they work. Dummy flashers work to, describes me when trying to fix this stuff. Rudy Backglass light and rear playfield lights are out on the test. Also the lamp with the metal hood that lights Rudy's face is out. How do I get those going? I do know how to bend those little wires on the wedge lights. Someone showed me that a few years ago. Nice trick. Thanks for your help. I appreciate it.

#3974 53 days ago

Some lamps are GI and may or many not illuminate during the flasher tests etc...the "hood" lamp is a GI for sure, I believe the top half of the backbox are GI lamps as well...once you're in attract mode they should be lit...check your fuses and then look at the GI connectors on the PDB...are the burnt?

#3975 53 days ago

Note that the flashers (blinkers actually) in the backbox are not controlled flashers. They are blinker bulbs that flash on their own.

#3976 53 days ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

Yes they are flashers and they work. Dummy flashers work to, describes me when trying to fix this stuff. Rudy Backglass light and rear playfield lights are out on the test. Also the lamp with the metal hood that lights Rudy's face is out. How do I get those going? I do know how to bend those little wires on the wedge lights. Someone showed me that a few years ago. Nice trick. Thanks for your help. I appreciate it.

Some side notes... Wedge flashers often rely on polarity, so if you're sure they are making good contact, and they still don't work, flip them 180 degrees.
The flashers you're using are directional, and not a good choice for the superdog. Get yourself some flex flashers that can point upward toward the insert.

#3977 53 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Some lamps are GI and may or many not illuminate during the flasher tests etc...the "hood" lamp is a GI for sure, I believe the top half of the backbox are GI lamps as well...once you're in attract mode they should be lit...check your fuses and then look at the GI connectors on the PDB...are the burnt?

Thanks Monkfe,

#3978 53 days ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Some side notes... Wedge flashers often rely on polarity, so if you're sure they are making good contact, and they still don't work, flip them 180 degrees.
The flashers you're using are directional, and not a good choice for the superdog. Get yourself some flex flashers that can point upward toward the insert.

Awesome. I have some flex flashers. Thanks. I will put them in. Thank you.

#3979 53 days ago

Thanks found it but not the problem i was looking at. Must be on the cpu as i even changed out cable to cpu and also driver board. Same string out on both boards and cables .

#3980 50 days ago

Just picked up the CPR mirrored backglass and am trying to figure out which trim/lift bar combo will cover the unprinted sides best. Does anyone here with that glass have a recommendation?

#3981 50 days ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Just picked up the CPR mirrored backglass and am trying to figure out which trim/lift bar combo will cover the unprinted sides best. Does anyone here with that glass have a recommendation?

Buy the system 11 set from pinballlife. 1/8 wider to fit glass. There's a hole thread on it but I can't find it.
It works, I have 5 of these CPR mirriod glasses.

#3982 50 days ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Just picked up the CPR mirrored backglass.....

System 11. And you may need to get a roll a "friction tape" as well to line the edges for the glass so the trim has a snug fit.

And the trim has a front and back side... with great frustration I figured this out last week. The glass was difficult to install and nightmare to remove until I realized my goof there.

#3983 49 days ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Buy the system 11 set from pinballlife. 1/8 wider to fit glass. There's a hole thread on it but I can't find it.
It works, I have 5 of these CPR mirriod glasses.

Quoted from pencilneck:

System 11. And you may need to get a roll a "friction tape" as well to line the edges for the glass so the trim has a snug fit.
And the trim has a front and back side... with great frustration I figured this out last week. The glass was difficult to install and nightmare to remove until I realized my goof there.

Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Just picked up the CPR mirrored backglass and am trying to figure out which trim/lift bar combo will cover the unprinted sides best. Does anyone here with that glass have a recommendation?

Here ya go:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cpr-backglass-trim

#3984 47 days ago

Thanks - added some sys11 trim and lift channel to my shopping list.

11
#3985 45 days ago

Joined the club today.

20220510_200644 (resized).jpg
#3986 45 days ago
Quoted from Sean_bc:

Joined the club today.
[quoted image]

Funhouse is such an amazing game, I'll have a hard rime selling mine.

#3987 44 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Funhouse is such an amazing game, I'll have a hard rime selling mine.

It's my favorite game of all time. It gets played more than all my other games combined.

#3988 43 days ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

It's my favorite game of all time. It gets played more than all my other games combined.

Ill probably only sell if I find another project one.

#3989 43 days ago

I posted earlier and I wanted to follow up and see what I am missing. My problem is on the steps ramp where I have more than one lamp lighting. Specifically when you do a lamp test, the frenzy lamp on bottom of ramp will cause the 500,000 lamp on top to light and vice versa. The bottom lamp is row 4 and the top lamp is row 6 on the lamp matrix. In the entire game whenever I test a row 4 lamp its corresponding row 6 lamp lights as well. Ceratinly sounded like a bad diode problem. The majority of the lamps are on pcb boards. To isolate the issue, I unplugged the 4 wire molex connector that feeds the 3 lamps on the steps ramp and the problem resolved.

I removed the ramp to be able to analyze. When i hook up a battery and test the pins on the molex connector, the problem is reproduced. the red yellow wire ( row 4) will light the row 6 ( red blue) bulb and vice versa. The socksts for these bulbs are a bit unusual and discontinued as they have the diode coming directly out of the 555 socket base rather than having normal lugs and a diode soldered in.

I have done a diode test and they test fine with current only flowing one way best i can tell. I have checked for bad solder joints etc and cant seem to find why this is happennig short of something inside the actual socket being shorted.

This machine is new to me and I am hoping other people more familiar with the machine might have some insights. Certainly with this ramp disconnected, all other row4 row6 issues disappear so this has to be the source of the issue.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

#3990 42 days ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

If poss How try to find

Easy:
Setup a frenzy but don't start it until clock is at midnight. When Rudy is asleep, start frenzy (or super frenzy), wake Rudy up, and three ball frenzy/super frenzy will net serious points.

Thanks. I am working on it. I have managed to get it in the correct order once this weekend but , I was so excited that I choked and all 3 balls drained quickly. Thanks for the pointers . Very helpful.

#3991 41 days ago

Had a small fire in my Funhouse today. Looking for some help identifying burnt components:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-fire-need-help-identifying-components#post-6931140

1 week later
#3992 32 days ago

Does anyone know if anyone built out any new wiring harnesses for Funhouse or if there was ever a hoard of NOS harness?

Mine is so dirty and not sure wife will let me run it thru diswasher.

#3993 32 days ago

Better to ask forgiveness than permission.

#3994 32 days ago
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:

Does anyone know if anyone built out any new wiring harnesses for Funhouse or if there was ever a hoard of NOS harness?
Mine is so dirty and not sure wife will let me run it thru diswasher.

And he talks about the residual effect of using your dishwasher... but apparently it's ok. The trick seems to be (around the 11 minute mark) using a grease relief FIRST on the bench to get the heavy soil off.

#3995 32 days ago
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:

Does anyone know if anyone built out any new wiring harnesses for Funhouse or if there was ever a hoard of NOS harness?
Mine is so dirty and not sure wife will let me run it thru diswasher.

Hang it outside on your washing line. Give it a good spray with degreaser (simple green!) and hose it down. It should come up ok mate

#3996 32 days ago
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:

Mine is so dirty and not sure wife will let me run it thru diswasher.

Dishwasher it, the dishwasher has had way worse in there.

#3997 31 days ago

Funhouse is in, joining his friends Ted and Red .

At every start however it goes to factory reset. NO battery damage visible, changed batteries but error remains.
U8 is not on a socket and don't want to unsolder it to move to Nvram.

suggestions ?

#3998 31 days ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

Funhouse is in, joining his friends Ted and Red .
At every start however it goes to factory reset. NO battery damage visible, changed batteries but error remains.
U8 is not on a socket and don't want to unsolder it to move to Nvram.
suggestions ?

Might sound silly, but did you check your “new” battery to make sure it’s good?

#3999 31 days ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Might sound silly, but did you check your “new” battery to make sure it’s good?

Yep, all are +/- 1.5V.

In the mean time I removed battery holder onboard and put a seperate one that was lying around in a box.. Seems to be fixed.
thx

#4000 31 days ago

Finally managed to get a really clean funhouse with minimal wear, just gotta remove the batteries and install nvram and updated roms. Nothing like getting a game that nostalgia is heavy with!

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