True... Of course, check that the jumper isn't already moved. I guess it never occurred to me that the 128k rom might still work in a 256k configuration.

For anyone interested, I'm using a 512k EPROM (it was the only rom I had laying around) and programmed it to the last half (256k) of the EPROM's addressable space. It works perfectly.

Piece a cake! I'm already aware of those steps being necessary, and i'll also swap in a RAMTRON while i'm at it! I'm quite the board tech.
FTR, it has all the original, serial numbers matching boards.

My flood victim FH was the same.

It had very few plays before the flood, matched serials all around. I was quite tickled to see that.

The backbox was fairly pristine., except the CPU board suffered a massive short and blew the ASIC since it was powered on during the flood. Chris Hibler brought it back to life better than new!

However, massive corrosion on the playfield and lower cab caused it to require a massive ground up resto.

I just bought this recently, it took !%#&@! Beltmann a month to get it here, and ive had it almost a week. its in WELL above average condition for whats out there, and aside from every serial'd part matching, it has 100% original artwork with absolutely zero fade! There's no PF wear, but it has a mylar with some pretty serious insert bubbles that actually affect the ball travel quite noticeably... I havn't yet decided on how I'm going to address that...
I had to replace 2 TIP102's and a 107, and one fuse when it got here, but its working 100% now. I'm now getting my ducks in a row, preparing for a full teardown and comprehensive shopout.

Just to throw this out there if you didn't already know and something to check for. If you have the Sys-11 soundboard you can't go over L-5.

Now that I have 2.0 I can finally see 9.0....whenever I get it working correctly.

A full mylar removal clearcoat will likely be all you need.

Sometimes you dont even need to re-clear it if the inserts are still flat.

I was not aware of that particular detail! thanks for mentioning it. But I do have a WPC sound board.

The inserts are all level, but I wont play this game with a bare playfield, so i'll probably just replace the mylar. The real trick is getting the new mylar in the EXACT same spot, or find a way to get the exposed blue (by the return lanes) back to the pretty blue under the mylar... The exposed is just a tad darker, but not nearly as bad as you typically see.

I just heavy cleared mine. I can sand it and re-clear it indefinitely.

No mylar needed with diamond plate or cleared playfields if you keep them waxed up.

that said I do really like these mylars for extreme wear areas:

ebay.com link: itm

Nice! I usually make those myself, but that looks easier! Thanks for the tip!

Replaced BR4 and C11 and no change. I'm at a loss here because this part of the board is pretty straight forward.
J102 goes to BR4 / F111 (2/3 respectively - showing 16v AC) after that there's the LED (off), TP7 (showing .6v)

Fuse tests good, but I can't figure out a good way to test if power is actually getting to the cap/bridge while it is in the backbox. There is continuity between the cap and the positive lead of the bridge. Continuity is good throughout that I see.

Scratching my head on this one....any thoughts?

Tried this bridge test (in diode mode) and my readings are nothing like what they have here. I get nothing on TP5 doing this test.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/File:TestingWPC-BR4-InSitu.gif

so if the caps weren't removed with care, you may have ripped the via out, check continuity coming out of the cap on both sides of the board....those via's are thin there...

Haha, yeah, just found a thread where that was the issue and took another look. I didn't think I did, but yes, that is what happened. C11 neg to B4 neg was bad. Fixed now. The cap was bad, so it wasn't all for nothing.

We had a request to run the Lift Crank Assy A-14160 ... it is now available ...

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-A-14160&Store_Code=PP

Team PPS

A-14060 (resized).jpg

What is this for?

That’s the trap door arm

Thanks. Haven’t had any issues with mine. Maybe I get one just in case

Can someone tell me the color of wires on the power board at 120 and 121 for Gi lights? Or post a picture of each thanks.

How about a chart ? https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems

LTG : )

I have 2 super dog lights out. The ones on either end of the hot dog. The 2 in the middle are working.The the 2 wires coming in to the first light are Red/Gray then the other light is connected by 2 yellow wires. Looks like a series. The wire solder connections are fine.Where do I go next to figure out what is wrong? I am a novice but trying to learn.Here is a pic. Thank you. Litz.

Super Dog lights (resized).jpg

Those are your flashers...do they work in test mode? as they're not normally lit all the time

ok just re-read you post again...so did you just replace your bulbs with led's? did you bend the legs over a bit? are they flasher bulbs? The red/gray should be your controlled lamps, the other is the flasher (as I recall)...also looks like the solder tabs on the bottom flasher might be touching? hard to tell in the pic

I will try them in the test mode. I have not done that. The LEDs were installed when I got the Pin. I will try to bend the legs. I don't know if they are Flashers bulbs but they may be. Thank you very much. I will report back.

Yeah It's hard to explaing how to do the "bend" without a pic...but you just sort of roll that end of the wire coming out of the led off to the side to help it make better contact with the metal contact in the socket

Yes they are flashers and they work. Dummy flashers work to, describes me when trying to fix this stuff. Rudy Backglass light and rear playfield lights are out on the test. Also the lamp with the metal hood that lights Rudy's face is out. How do I get those going? I do know how to bend those little wires on the wedge lights. Someone showed me that a few years ago. Nice trick. Thanks for your help. I appreciate it.

Some lamps are GI and may or many not illuminate during the flasher tests etc...the "hood" lamp is a GI for sure, I believe the top half of the backbox are GI lamps as well...once you're in attract mode they should be lit...check your fuses and then look at the GI connectors on the PDB...are the burnt?

Note that the flashers (blinkers actually) in the backbox are not controlled flashers. They are blinker bulbs that flash on their own.

Some side notes... Wedge flashers often rely on polarity, so if you're sure they are making good contact, and they still don't work, flip them 180 degrees.
The flashers you're using are directional, and not a good choice for the superdog. Get yourself some flex flashers that can point upward toward the insert.

Thanks Monkfe,

Awesome. I have some flex flashers. Thanks. I will put them in. Thank you.

Thanks found it but not the problem i was looking at. Must be on the cpu as i even changed out cable to cpu and also driver board. Same string out on both boards and cables .

Just picked up the CPR mirrored backglass and am trying to figure out which trim/lift bar combo will cover the unprinted sides best. Does anyone here with that glass have a recommendation?

Buy the system 11 set from pinballlife. 1/8 wider to fit glass. There's a hole thread on it but I can't find it.
It works, I have 5 of these CPR mirriod glasses.

System 11. And you may need to get a roll a "friction tape" as well to line the edges for the glass so the trim has a snug fit.

And the trim has a front and back side... with great frustration I figured this out last week. The glass was difficult to install and nightmare to remove until I realized my goof there.

Here ya go:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cpr-backglass-trim

Thanks - added some sys11 trim and lift channel to my shopping list.

Joined the club today.

20220510_200644 (resized).jpg

Funhouse is such an amazing game, I'll have a hard rime selling mine.

It's my favorite game of all time. It gets played more than all my other games combined.

Ill probably only sell if I find another project one.

I posted earlier and I wanted to follow up and see what I am missing. My problem is on the steps ramp where I have more than one lamp lighting. Specifically when you do a lamp test, the frenzy lamp on bottom of ramp will cause the 500,000 lamp on top to light and vice versa. The bottom lamp is row 4 and the top lamp is row 6 on the lamp matrix. In the entire game whenever I test a row 4 lamp its corresponding row 6 lamp lights as well. Ceratinly sounded like a bad diode problem. The majority of the lamps are on pcb boards. To isolate the issue, I unplugged the 4 wire molex connector that feeds the 3 lamps on the steps ramp and the problem resolved.

I removed the ramp to be able to analyze. When i hook up a battery and test the pins on the molex connector, the problem is reproduced. the red yellow wire ( row 4) will light the row 6 ( red blue) bulb and vice versa. The socksts for these bulbs are a bit unusual and discontinued as they have the diode coming directly out of the 555 socket base rather than having normal lugs and a diode soldered in.

I have done a diode test and they test fine with current only flowing one way best i can tell. I have checked for bad solder joints etc and cant seem to find why this is happennig short of something inside the actual socket being shorted.

This machine is new to me and I am hoping other people more familiar with the machine might have some insights. Certainly with this ramp disconnected, all other row4 row6 issues disappear so this has to be the source of the issue.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks. I am working on it. I have managed to get it in the correct order once this weekend but , I was so excited that I choked and all 3 balls drained quickly. Thanks for the pointers . Very helpful.

Had a small fire in my Funhouse today. Looking for some help identifying burnt components:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-fire-need-help-identifying-components#post-6931140

Does anyone know if anyone built out any new wiring harnesses for Funhouse or if there was ever a hoard of NOS harness?

Mine is so dirty and not sure wife will let me run it thru diswasher.

Better to ask forgiveness than permission.

And he talks about the residual effect of using your dishwasher... but apparently it's ok. The trick seems to be (around the 11 minute mark) using a grease relief FIRST on the bench to get the heavy soil off.

Hang it outside on your washing line. Give it a good spray with degreaser (simple green!) and hose it down. It should come up ok mate

Dishwasher it, the dishwasher has had way worse in there.

Funhouse is in, joining his friends Ted and Red .

At every start however it goes to factory reset. NO battery damage visible, changed batteries but error remains.
U8 is not on a socket and don't want to unsolder it to move to Nvram.

suggestions ?

Might sound silly, but did you check your “new” battery to make sure it’s good?

Yep, all are +/- 1.5V.

In the mean time I removed battery holder onboard and put a seperate one that was lying around in a box.. Seems to be fixed.
thx

Finally managed to get a really clean funhouse with minimal wear, just gotta remove the batteries and install nvram and updated roms. Nothing like getting a game that nostalgia is heavy with!