(Topic ID: 64458)

Funhouse!? Club... (Fans welcome)

By mof

10 years ago


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There are 5,018 posts in this topic. You are on page 78 of 101.
#3851 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I like those apron cards!
Where did you get them?
Maybe paint the coin door.

I downloaded the cards from here

http://www.pinballcards.com/Search?submit_form=0&search=Fun

Yep. Definitely either painting the coin door or powder coating the coin slot/coin return now.

#3852 2 years ago

did you go with a micro playfield, if so how was your experience?

Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Game is now ready for the 2.0 kit. Only issue I am having after the playfield swap/ cabinet redo is the center ramp light( open trapdoor when flashing) is inop. Guessing it’s a wire or connector, don’t think it’s my solder job but I will figure it out. All and all, very happy with my restoration! Game plays fast and Marco’s new disc behind the mirror works great.
Now to move this upstairs for my permanent collection and finish the restoration of creature from the black lagoon for my friend.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#3853 2 years ago
Quoted from Lopa:

did you go with a micro playfield, if so how was your experience?

I bought a Mirco playfield. All and all great experience. Fast shipment, Looks amazing, most of the dimples on the underside were spot on. Had to drill just a couple holes not there like at the ramp support and for the light at the left shooter lane. Would buy again for sure.

#3854 2 years ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

I bought a Mirco playfield. All and all great experience. Fast shipment, Looks amazing, most of the dimples on the underside were spot on. Had to drill just a couple holes not there like at the ramp support and for the light at the left shooter lane. Would buy again for sure.

Watch for pooling. I had some around the post in front of Rudy. Some chipping under when I took the post up. It all ironed down and is invisible under the post now. But I will never buy another Mirco

#3855 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Watch for pooling. I had some around the post in front of Rudy. Some chipping under when I took the post up. It all ironed down and is invisible under the post now. But I will never buy another Mirco

I havent had any trouble with Mirco playfiels. But it usually takes me 2 years or more to get to them.

I buy a playfield when i buy a game usually.

Then restore them when i get to them.

Ron Kruzman says to wait 6 mos or more to install his reworked ones.

When i re-clear a playfield i wait a minimum on 12 weeks before reassembly.

Just sayin....

#3856 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Watch for pooling. I had some around the post in front of Rudy. Some chipping under when I took the post up. It all ironed down and is invisible under the post now. But I will never buy another Mirco

I never buy a new PF I restore the original whit the exception if I find a NOS As you said is well known those PF are 2nd quality. My FH still have the original and still good a couple minor spots whit color fade very minor. And I’m planing in fully repaint it and clearcoated (a friend does them for me ) it cost me about 1k but still the original and whit a real hard clear coat.

#3857 2 years ago

I do wonder how much of the pooling issue is from possible lack of proper time given for clear to cure. I had pooling issues with my first playfield restoration years ago and quickly learned that it is absolutely necessary to WAIT long enough for the clear to cure before populating the playfield. This is a variable with an extreme range. Thicker clear = more time needed. It is an inexact art, a game of approximation with winners erring on the side of waiting longer. I have often used a sniff test. If you set a playfield out in the sun and let it warm (take an infrared surface temperature reading - I let it get up above at least 100-110F for a half hour or more). Then put your nose right down to it and sniff. You shouldn’t smell anything if the clear is cured, just like you don’t smell clearcoat fumes in a parking lot of hot cars. I’ve had playfields take over a year to pass this test.

#3858 2 years ago

Looking for a source for pop bumper cap decals. Planetary has them but $5 a decal just seems a bit extreme.

Thanks

#3859 2 years ago
Quoted from fossmin:

Looking for a source for pop bumper cap decals. Planetary has them but $5 a decal just seems a bit extreme.
Thanks

They have been out of stock for a couple years everywhere, I'd get them where you can regardless of price.

Or stencil and paint them.

https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/funhouse-bumpercap-decals-set-of-3.html

#3860 2 years ago
Quoted from fossmin:

Looking for a source for pop bumper cap decals. Planetary has them but $5 a decal just seems a bit extreme.
Thanks

Wow, so these days, people will pay $13K for a Funhouse that's actually worth about $5k, or $20K for an IJ that's actually worth maybe $6K, but piss and moan about $5 for a decal... This hobby has SO turned to shit.

#3861 2 years ago
Quoted from fossmin:

Looking for a source for pop bumper cap decals. Planetary has them but $5 a decal just seems a bit extreme.
Thanks

Think of it as paying for the license, rather than the vinyl. (Like a licensed logo'd MLB baseball cap is $20, but the same cap without any MLB logo is $9.99)

My suggestion: buy the decals if you can get them. You'll be kicking yourself if they run out of stock at PPS...

#3862 2 years ago

20220329_160940 (resized).jpg20220329_160940 (resized).jpg

Oh boy! Powered up this bastard for the first time... house currently not on fire!

#3863 1 year ago

so after all the 2.0 talk about the stair switches, I went and checked on mine...opto, top and center work fine, but when I hit the bottom one, it trips correctly but then also signals the opto as well? going slowly it seems to trip correctly about half the time, but then both the switch and then the opto. Unplugging the opto input from the opto board, removes the bug, but odd how its tripping that particular switch. Would a bad lm339 cause this behavior? Thoughts?

edit...seems it was the 339, replaced it...all good now...

#3864 1 year ago

Got a question and didn't see any obvious answers. My diverter blade on Funhouse is a little wonky. The diagram at the Marco site shows a compression spring between the coil and the e-ring in the plunger assembly, but doesn't list a part number, as seen in the image below. My diverter feels tight and doesn't spring back nicely (or at all, depending on it's mood) like something is binding. Any ideas? Thanks.

Mike

large (resized).jpglarge (resized).jpg
#3865 1 year ago
Quoted from mikeflan:

Got a question and didn't see any obvious answers. My diverter blade on Funhouse is a little wonky. The diagram at the Marco site shows a compression spring between the coil and the e-ring in the plunger assembly, but doesn't list a part number, as seen in the image below. My diverter feels tight and doesn't spring back nicely (or at all, depending on it's mood) like something is binding. Any ideas? Thanks.
Mike
[quoted image]

Quite often in assemblies like this, the nyliner bearing is wasted, gone, or popped out of its hole.

#3866 1 year ago

""I have a “player’s condition” Funhouse that I am thinking about a more or less full restore. One of the issues that I am having is that I cannot turn the volume down and there is some baseline static heard on the speakers. I did some research on Pinside about this problem and the sound board is the likely problem (failing digital pot or amp?). I did the easy stuff first (reseated ribbon cables, factory reset, volume override to “yes”). When I look at my machine it has an extra board (A13502) that runs from the sound board to the MPU. Apparently it is the “sound overlay board” from System 11 and was found on a few Funhouse and Dr. Dude machines. The FH manual that came with my machine does not include the A13502 board in the back board parts schematic. Could this extra board be causing any of the sound problems? Will I need this board if I rebuild/replace the sound board?""

I posted the above in the alpha-numeric topic last week and I didn’t get many replies. I am hoping that the Funhouse specific forum will be more helpful. I have done some more homework and I have figured out that I have a prototype FH (side rails, extra STEPS switch, raised start button). It has the A13971 sound board and the A13502 board. What needs looking at to fix the volume control?

I found the answer about using the A13502 board on Pinside and it is a bit of a work around. If I can figure out the volume and static problems with boards I have I will just use them.

On a separate note: with all of the Mirco playfield problems where can I source a new Funhouse playfield? I would really rather not order from Marco given all of the issues with his playfields. I did reach out to Mr. Kruzman about having him work his magic on a Mirco FH playfield.

#3867 1 year ago
Quoted from reynolds531:

""I have a “player’s condition” Funhouse that I am thinking about a more or less full restore. One of the issues that I am having is that I cannot turn the volume down and there is some baseline static heard on the speakers. I did some research on Pinside about this problem and the sound board is the likely problem (failing digital pot or amp?). I did the easy stuff first (reseated ribbon cables, factory reset, volume override to “yes”). When I look at my machine it has an extra board (A13502) that runs from the sound board to the MPU. Apparently it is the “sound overlay board” from System 11 and was found on a few Funhouse and Dr. Dude machines. The FH manual that came with my machine does not include the A13502 board in the back board parts schematic. Could this extra board be causing any of the sound problems? Will I need this board if I rebuild/replace the sound board?""
I posted the above in the alpha-numeric topic last week and I didn’t get many replies. I am hoping that the Funhouse specific forum will be more helpful. I have done some more homework and I have figured out that I have a prototype FH (side rails, extra STEPS switch, raised start button). It has the A13971 sound board and the A13502 board. What needs looking at to fix the volume control?
I found the answer about using the A13502 board on Pinside and it is a bit of a work around. If I can figure out the volume and static problems with boards I have I will just use them.
On a separate note: with all of the Mirco playfield problems where can I source a new Funhouse playfield? I would really rather not order from Marco given all of the issues with his playfields. I did reach out to Mr. Kruzman about having him work his magic on a Mirco FH playfield.

I can't help you much with the sound, as I am no that familiar with the difference between the System 11 and WPC style cabs.

As far as the PF goes, that will be a tough find. At least it has been for me so far. I won't risk the Mirco PF myself and I know Ron does amazing work, but from what I have seen far too many have ink adhesion issues. No amount of clearing is going to fix a faulty foundation.

#3868 1 year ago
Quoted from reynolds531:

""I have a “player’s condition” Funhouse that I am thinking about a more or less full restore. One of the issues that I am having is that I cannot turn the volume down and there is some baseline static heard on the speakers. I did some research on Pinside about this problem and the sound board is the likely problem (failing digital pot or amp?). I did the easy stuff first (reseated ribbon cables, factory reset, volume override to “yes”). When I look at my machine it has an extra board (A13502) that runs from the sound board to the MPU. Apparently it is the “sound overlay board” from System 11 and was found on a few Funhouse and Dr. Dude machines. The FH manual that came with my machine does not include the A13502 board in the back board parts schematic. Could this extra board be causing any of the sound problems? Will I need this board if I rebuild/replace the sound board?""
I posted the above in the alpha-numeric topic last week and I didn’t get many replies. I am hoping that the Funhouse specific forum will be more helpful. I have done some more homework and I have figured out that I have a prototype FH (side rails, extra STEPS switch, raised start button). It has the A13971 sound board and the A13502 board. What needs looking at to fix the volume control?
I found the answer about using the A13502 board on Pinside and it is a bit of a work around. If I can figure out the volume and static problems with boards I have I will just use them.
On a separate note: with all of the Mirco playfield problems where can I source a new Funhouse playfield? I would really rather not order from Marco given all of the issues with his playfields. I did reach out to Mr. Kruzman about having him work his magic on a Mirco FH playfield.

From PinWiki: 5.8.7 Sound Overlay Board (A-13502)
This board acted as a power supply for a small subset of Funhouse and Dr. Dude games during the transition from System 11 to WPC in cases where the WPC boardset still included the System 11 D-11581 sound board.

Last resort purchase a new one: https://ksarcade.net/a-13502-williams-sound-overlay-board.html

#3869 1 year ago
Quoted from reynolds531:

""I have a “player’s condition” Funhouse that I am thinking about a more or less full restore. One of the issues that I am having is that I cannot turn the volume down and there is some baseline static heard on the speakers. I did some research on Pinside about this problem and the sound board is the likely problem (failing digital pot or amp?). I did the easy stuff first (reseated ribbon cables, factory reset, volume override to “yes”). When I look at my machine it has an extra board (A13502) that runs from the sound board to the MPU. Apparently it is the “sound overlay board” from System 11 and was found on a few Funhouse and Dr. Dude machines. The FH manual that came with my machine does not include the A13502 board in the back board parts schematic. Could this extra board be causing any of the sound problems? Will I need this board if I rebuild/replace the sound board?""
I posted the above in the alpha-numeric topic last week and I didn’t get many replies. I am hoping that the Funhouse specific forum will be more helpful. I have done some more homework and I have figured out that I have a prototype FH (side rails, extra STEPS switch, raised start button). It has the A13971 sound board and the A13502 board. What needs looking at to fix the volume control?
I found the answer about using the A13502 board on Pinside and it is a bit of a work around. If I can figure out the volume and static problems with boards I have I will just use them.
On a separate note: with all of the Mirco playfield problems where can I source a new Funhouse playfield? I would really rather not order from Marco given all of the issues with his playfields. I did reach out to Mr. Kruzman about having him work his magic on a Mirco FH playfield.

So on your prototype Funhouse, do you have four settings buttons, where the middle two are volume up and down? Or do you have the three settings buttons arrangement and then also have a volume "pot" next to the tilt plumb bob?

Reason I ask is because I recently had a similar discussion on the Diner forum about not being able to turn the volume all the way down. Turns out this was done on purpose by putting a small resistor in line with the ground lead on the pot connections. This fools the pot as to where zero is so you can't turn it all the way off (when games did not yet have the "min volume override" feature in the settings). It is super easy to change, either temporarily or permanent. The temporary solution and an easy one to at least test with, is to just use a short jumper, perhaps with alligator clips, and jumper around that resistor on the ground wire.

#3870 1 year ago
Quoted from reynolds531:

""I have a “player’s condition” Funhouse that I am thinking about a more or less full restore. One of the issues that I am having is that I cannot turn the volume down and there is some baseline static heard on the speakers. I did some research on Pinside about this problem and the sound board is the likely problem (failing digital pot or amp?). I did the easy stuff first (reseated ribbon cables, factory reset, volume override to “yes”). When I look at my machine it has an extra board (A13502) that runs from the sound board to the MPU. Apparently it is the “sound overlay board” from System 11 and was found on a few Funhouse and Dr. Dude machines. The FH manual that came with my machine does not include the A13502 board in the back board parts schematic. Could this extra board be causing any of the sound problems? Will I need this board if I rebuild/replace the sound board?""
I posted the above in the alpha-numeric topic last week and I didn’t get many replies. I am hoping that the Funhouse specific forum will be more helpful. I have done some more homework and I have figured out that I have a prototype FH (side rails, extra STEPS switch, raised start button). It has the A13971 sound board and the A13502 board. What needs looking at to fix the volume control?
I found the answer about using the A13502 board on Pinside and it is a bit of a work around. If I can figure out the volume and static problems with boards I have I will just use them.
On a separate note: with all of the Mirco playfield problems where can I source a new Funhouse playfield? I would really rather not order from Marco given all of the issues with his playfields. I did reach out to Mr. Kruzman about having him work his magic on a Mirco FH playfield.

Very many Mirco funhouse playfields have been installed with perfect results.

I wouldnt hesitate to get one.

I have used them on Taxi, funhouse, MM, ToM and several others with perfect results.

Although they have set in my workshop for more than a year before installing them.
Plenty of time for the clear to dry and shrink down.

#3871 1 year ago
Quoted from reynolds531:

""I have a “player’s condition” Funhouse that I am thinking about a more or less full restore. One of the issues that I am having is that I cannot turn the volume down and there is some baseline static heard on the speakers. I did some research on Pinside about this problem and the sound board is the likely problem (failing digital pot or amp?). I did the easy stuff first (reseated ribbon cables, factory reset, volume override to “yes”). When I look at my machine it has an extra board (A13502) that runs from the sound board to the MPU. Apparently it is the “sound overlay board” from System 11 and was found on a few Funhouse and Dr. Dude machines. The FH manual that came with my machine does not include the A13502 board in the back board parts schematic. Could this extra board be causing any of the sound problems? Will I need this board if I rebuild/replace the sound board?""
I posted the above in the alpha-numeric topic last week and I didn’t get many replies. I am hoping that the Funhouse specific forum will be more helpful. I have done some more homework and I have figured out that I have a prototype FH (side rails, extra STEPS switch, raised start button). It has the A13971 sound board and the A13502 board. What needs looking at to fix the volume control?
I found the answer about using the A13502 board on Pinside and it is a bit of a work around. If I can figure out the volume and static problems with boards I have I will just use them.
On a separate note: with all of the Mirco playfield problems where can I source a new Funhouse playfield? I would really rather not order from Marco given all of the issues with his playfields. I did reach out to Mr. Kruzman about having him work his magic on a Mirco FH playfield.

Your volume knob is in the cabinet on the left side by the tilt bob if you didn't know. You cannot use the up/down buttons they do not work with your machine. You also cannot go above a certain code level. It is possible you have issues with a board, but the volume knob gets scratchy and flaky over time and need cleaned or they cut out, etc. If you have not already looked into this, that is where I would start. I will check my manuals to see if I have the Sys-11 board schematics but I really doubt the board is your issue.

Funhouse was made around the same time they were changing backend systems. The protos/samples and probably the first 100 or so use the old analog system (Sys-11). WPC was the newer digital version that uses the volume buttons.

Since you say you have the extra STEPS target congrats. I don't think very many of those were made. However...that does kind of put a damper on your plan to get a remake playfield. The remakes are not going to match yours, but on the plus side, I think all of the early games have some sort of clear coat or mylar on them. If it needs work you would be better off sending it out to get it repaired and clear coated.

You can find more information and pdf's of manuals for the soundboards here
https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=966

The more I think about this (because I also have an early game) anyone aware of anyone converting from Sys-11 to WPC? Everything seems to be there to do it, just maybe change out the boards and upgrade the ROMS?

#3872 1 year ago
Quoted from Zablon:

Your volume knob is in the cabinet on the left side by the tilt bob if you didn't know. You cannot use the up/down buttons they do not work with your machine. You also cannot go above a certain code level. It is possible you have issues with a board, but the volume knob gets scratchy and flaky over time and need cleaned or they cut out, etc. If you have not already looked into this, that is where I would start. I will check my manuals to see if I have the Sys-11 board schematics but I really doubt the board is your issue.
Funhouse was made around the same time they were changing backend systems. The protos/samples and probably the first 100 or so use the old analog system (Sys-11). WPC was the newer digital version that uses the volume buttons.
Since you say you have the extra STEPS target congrats. I don't think very many of those were made. However...that does kind of put a damper on your plan to get a remake playfield. The remakes are not going to match yours, but on the plus side, I think all of the early games have some sort of clear coat or mylar on them. If it needs work you would be better off sending it out to get it repaired and clear coated.
You can find more information and pdf's of manuals for the soundboards here
https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=966
The more I think about this (because I also have an early game) anyone aware of anyone converting from Sys-11 to WPC? Everything seems to be there to do it, just maybe change out the boards and upgrade the ROMS?

You have it figured out. There is a pot switch behind the tilt mechanism. It does control the volume and it does give off static when turned. If this is the same as the pot switches on my old stereo amps and receivers I should be able to fix it with some Deoxit. Thank you so much. It does have the usual four switches behind the coin door and the volume bars do go down to about half way on the alpha numeric screen. It does not turn down the volume, that said

I went and reviewed everything on this machine. I suspect that it is some bastard child of a system 11 and an 89WPS. I was incorrect about the STEPS switches: it only has the four (STEP). It does have the prototype start switch, the extended side rails and obviously the older sound boards. It does not appear to have the diamond plate playfield. It does have a significant amount of mylar on the playfield. There is soe good news to this as it will make finding a new playfield easier.

Again, thank you for your help.

#3873 1 year ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

I can't help you much with the sound, as I am no that familiar with the difference between the System 11 and WPC style cabs.
As far as the PF goes, that will be a tough find. At least it has been for me so far. I won't risk the Mirco PF myself and I know Ron does amazing work, but from what I have seen far too many have ink adhesion issues. No amount of clearing is going to fix a faulty foundation.

I agree with you. I am not so sure that I want to wait a year for a playfield to "cure" properly as "pinballinreno" mentioned. Funhouse seems to have been a very problematic playfield from Mirco. This is not an inexpensive item to purchase. More importantly, the amount of time and effort involved in a playfield exchange demands a playfield that will not have problems. Let us hope that in the near future there will be another and much improved source of playfields. Until then I will wait and hang in with my player's pinball FH.

If I manage to stumble across a source of FH playfields I will private message you.

#3874 1 year ago
Quoted from reynolds531:

You have it figured out. There is a pot switch behind the tilt mechanism. It does control the volume and it does give off static when turned. If this is the same as the pot switches on my old stereo amps and receivers I should be able to fix it with some Deoxit. Thank you so much. It does have the usual four switches behind the coin door and the volume bars to go down to about half way on the alpha numeric screen. It does not turn down the volume, that said
I went and reviewed everything on this machine. I suspect that it is some bastard child of a system 11 and an 89WPS. I was incorrect about the STEPS switches: it only has the four (STEP). It does have the prototype start switch, the extended side rails and obviously the older sound boards. It does not appear to have the diamond plate playfield. It does have a significant amount of mylar on the playfield. There is soe good news to this as it will make finding a new playfield easier.
Again, thank you for your help.

Sounds like you got one close to mine and I also call mine Frankenstein (lol). As they started building the production machines they were just using up whatever left over sample parts they had. Do you have any red circuit boards under the playfield? You can also check the right side area by the flippers and see if anything is written there to see if it has any clearcoat.

As for the pf itself....really you should look at how bad your pf is...because buying a replacement should be the last option. If it has mylar, it can't be in too bad shape under it....but that is some work to remove it without damaging the pf.

#3875 1 year ago
Quoted from Zablon:

Sounds like you got one close to mine and I also call mine Frankenstein (lol). As they started building the production machines they were just using up whatever left over sample parts they had. Do you have any red circuit boards under the playfield? You can also check the right side area by the flippers and see if anything is written there to see if it has any clearcoat.
As for the pf itself....really you should look at how bad your pf is...because buying a replacement should be the last option. If it has mylar, it can't be in too bad shape under it....but that is some work to remove it without damaging the pf.

The circuit boards are standard green. The playfield does not mention anything about the clear coat (no diamond plate). I did run some deoxit through the sound pot and I will repeat an application as I know from stereo amps it can take some time to free up the gunk.

I have enclosed some playfield pictures. You can see where the mylar ends. The big wear is on the shooter lane, the inside lane, the outside lane and by Rudy's jaw. I put a mylar dot on the left ball drop as it did have some serious wear. I would call this planking and I remember reading somewhere about this on FH playfields that did not get the diamond coat treatment. I don't know how amenable this is to being repaired. Any comments from playfield restorers on this?

Anyone have thoughts on the overlays as an alternative? There is a playfield with an overlay for sale on E-bay and seller is very open that it is not perfect. I just feel that if I go to the trouble of a playfield replacement I should get the best one that I can. As it is right now the machine is very playable. I am considering doing a full rebuild and it might be a daunting task. I know, I know, takes lots of photographs and then some more.

P1000794 (resized).JPGP1000794 (resized).JPGP1000795 (resized).JPGP1000795 (resized).JPGP1000796 (resized).JPGP1000796 (resized).JPGP1000797 (resized).JPGP1000797 (resized).JPG
#3876 1 year ago

Yeah, that is some planking....I do not know enough about pf restores to know how hard it would be to fix it.

I personally would avoid the overlays because in many cases due to the height change, it requires reworking nuts/bolts, switches etc to account for the difference.

Maybe someone else can speak to that.

#3877 1 year ago
Quoted from reynolds531:

The circuit boards are standard green. The playfield does not mention anything about the clear coat (no diamond plate). I did run some deoxit through the sound pot and I will repeat an application as I know from stereo amps it can take some time to free up the gunk.
I have enclosed some playfield pictures. You can see where the mylar ends. The big wear is on the shooter lane, the inside lane, the outside lane and by Rudy's jaw. I put a mylar dot on the left ball drop as it did have some serious wear. I would call this planking and I remember reading somewhere about this on FH playfields that did not get the diamond coat treatment. I don't know how amenable this is to being repaired. Any comments from playfield restorers on this?
Anyone have thoughts on the overlays as an alternative? There is a playfield with an overlay for sale on E-bay and seller is very open that it is not perfect. I just feel that if I go to the trouble of a playfield replacement I should get the best one that I can. As it is right now the machine is very playable. I am considering doing a full rebuild and it might be a daunting task. I know, I know, takes lots of photographs and then some more.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Captneo called it graining...have the same on my original...its repairable...take a look at cosmo's (cosmokramer?) thread and see what is playfield looked like prior to restoration...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/no-catchy-thread-title-this-time-just-a-funhouse-restoration/page/13#post-6762392

#3878 1 year ago
Quoted from reynolds531:

The playfield does not mention anything about the clear coat (no diamond plate).

I do not know for a fact but I think that if the playfield was coated with DP then no mylar was installed. Otherwise you should assume the playfield was lacquered and if you try to remove the mylar there is risk that you will pull the artwork with the mylar. I have a DP Rollergames and there are factory mylar half moons at the slings and someone put an aftermarket "mylar" on it.

Quoted from reynolds531:

You can see where the mylar ends.

This is where the problem will be. If you want to restore the playfield the mylar has to come off. As mentioned above there is a risk the artwork will come off with the mylar. Once you've got the mylar off then you have a repaint all the blues that don't color match. The whites don't color match either - they have all yellowed. It's a BIG job. I repainted yellows on an Indiana Jones and that took me a few days to do.

#3879 1 year ago

I recently installed a new left flipper assembly but it still seems weak when I want to backhand to the ramp , seems to have no power on that shot . End of flipper shot to the loop plenty of power . So is this normal not to make the ramp on the left flipper ?

#3880 1 year ago
Quoted from HC2016:

I recently installed a new left flipper assembly but it still seems weak when I want to backhand to the ramp , seems to have no power on that shot . End of flipper shot to the loop plenty of power . So is this normal not to make the ramp on the left flipper ?

Have you verified that the correct flipper coil is installed? That's always the first thing that I check. Are you switches adjusted correctly?

#3881 1 year ago
Quoted from HC2016:

I recently installed a new left flipper assembly but it still seems weak when I want to backhand to the ramp , seems to have no power on that shot . End of flipper shot to the loop plenty of power . So is this normal not to make the ramp on the left flipper ?

Depends where the rest position is. If you want to hit backhand shots with more power, adjust up the rest position slightly. If you want to hit shots far on the other side of the playfield more easily, adjust it down slightly. Use the adjustment dots as guides.

Both lower flippers are FL-11630 coils. They came with red paper wrap labels on them.

#3882 1 year ago

Coil is correct , switches making good contact . I did adjust the resting position of the left flipper , seems to be a little better , I’ll be playing later tonight so we shall see . Thanks for the advice

#3883 1 year ago
Quoted from reynolds531:

I agree with you. I am not so sure that I want to wait a year for a playfield to "cure" properly as "pinballinreno" mentioned. Funhouse seems to have been a very problematic playfield from Mirco. This is not an inexpensive item to purchase. More importantly, the amount of time and effort involved in a playfield exchange demands a playfield that will not have problems. Let us hope that in the near future there will be another and much improved source of playfields. Until then I will wait and hang in with my player's pinball FH.
If I manage to stumble across a source of FH playfields I will private message you.

If you get one from Mirco let it cure a year. I just put mine in and have pooling and chipping. I couldn’t wait, and didn’t know I had to.

#3884 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

If you get one from Mirco let it cure a year. I just put mine in and have pooling and chipping. I couldn’t wait, and didn’t know I had to.

A year is a bit extreme.

Ron Kruzman recommends 6 to 9 months for his playfields, and no less then 3 or 4 months.

Its not a manufacturer problem per se, its more a problem with how long it takes for moden clearcoat to cure sufficiently.

I bought a brand new car and was warned not to wash it in a car wash, for at least 3 months but to allow it to cure in the hot sun.

Playfields cant be cured in the hot sun like cars. They take a lot longer to cure indoors.

#3885 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

A year is a bit extreme.
Ron Kruzman recommends 6 to 9 months for his playfields, and no less then 3 or 4 months.
Its not a manufacturer problem per se, its more a problem with how long it takes for moden clearcoat to cure sufficiently.
I bought a brand new car and was warned not to wash it in a car wash, for at least 3 months but to allow it to cure in the hot sun.
Playfields cant be cured in the hot sun like cars. They take a lot longer to cure indoors.

This begs the question: do the big manufacturers (Stern, JJP) wait nine months for their playfields to cure? I would also ask if Mirco waits any length of time for his playfields to cure?

That aside it would appear that Mirco has other issues with his playfields.

I ask these questions as someone who wants to restore a Funhouse and may require a new playfield.

Quoted from paynemic:

If you get one from Mirco let it cure a year. I just put mine in and have pooling and chipping. I couldn’t wait, and didn’t know I had to.

#3886 1 year ago
Quoted from reynolds531:

This begs the question: do the big manufacturers (Stern, JJP) wait nine months for their playfields to cure? I would also ask if Mirco waits any length of time for his playfields to cure?
That aside it would appear that Mirco has other issues with his playfields.
I ask these questions as someone who wants to restore a Funhouse and may require a new playfield.

The Mirco funhouse playfields are very good.

Get one and let it cure a bit before installing it.

Hundreds have been installed with no issues.

The "nose test" and fingernail test will tell you when its ready to be used.

If you have your original restored, wait 3 to 6 months before installing it.

#3887 1 year ago

My funhouse's original displays are nice and bright, but instead of showing commas in the score, they are showing periods. Any ideas how to convert it to commas? I vaguely remember something about a jumper, but my memory fails. Thanks.

Mike

#3888 1 year ago

I’m doing a playfield swap/resto and cannot figure out to remove this bugger. Each metal bracket is screwed in (bottom) and riveted up top. What am I missing?

IMG_1065 (resized).jpegIMG_1065 (resized).jpegIMG_1066 (resized).jpegIMG_1066 (resized).jpeg
#3889 1 year ago
Quoted from Frogman:

I’m doing a playfield swap/resto and cannot figure out to remove this bugger. Each metal bracket is screwed in (bottom) and riveted up top. What am I missing?
[quoted image][quoted image]

sometimes you have hit it with a punch or even a soft hammer (small)...just keep working the two back and forth till its out...

#3890 1 year ago
Quoted from monkfe:

sometimes you have hit it with a punch or even a soft hammer (small)...just keep working the two back and forth till its out...

Yep, you need to hammer it out.

#3891 1 year ago
Quoted from fossmin:

Yep, you need to hammer it out.

I used a metal bar across both threaded posts and then hit the metal bar to move them both at the same time, otherwise there is a reasonable chance you’ll break one threaded post off and need to have it rewelded

#3892 1 year ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

I used a metal bar across both threaded posts and then hit the metal bar to move them both at the same time, otherwise there is a reasonable chance you’ll break one threaded post off and need to have it rewelded

gentle repeated tapping with a plastic hammer does the trick and wont damage threads.

To absolutely protect the threads, put a nut on it before hammering. Remove the nut when the part is loosened.

#3893 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

gentle repeated tapping with a plastic hammer does the trick and wont damage threads.
To absolutely protect the threads, put a nut on it before hammering. Remove the nut when the part is loosened.

Thank you and to everyone who responded.

#3894 1 year ago

I ordered "3" pop bumper decals... kind of expensive, plus the cheap $9 shipping... and today I have 3 sets of decals. So I've got my pin hooked up, but I'm not going to purchase 2 more Funhouse pins to restore... so... I've got these for sale:

20220405_204805 (resized).jpg20220405_204805 (resized).jpg

$8 for a set, mailed to any address in the lower 48 States. Send me a private message with your email address and I'll send you a Paypal request of payment.

Protip on installing.... get them off the backing material with a knife or utility blade. Do not use your fingers to handle the material, the adhesive grabs finger prints instantly.

Added 23 months ago:

They are sold and been dropped off a the post office.

#3895 1 year ago

I am troubleshooting a Funhouse which has 2 rows firing on lamp tests, rows 4 and 6 are lighting. With the exception of the frenzy, extra ball and 500k lamp sockets on the stairs, I don't see other diodes. When I disconnect the molex connector which leads to the bulb sockets on the stairs, the problem resolves in all other lamps. I have tested continuity on the red yellow wires amd red blue with are the wire colors for the 2 rows amd thays fine. The diodes also test fine. Where do I go to next?

#3896 1 year ago

Does Funhouse have a wizard mode? I am starting to get some decent scores, for me, 22Million, 25Million on factory settings.
I am wondering if there are any tricks to getting higher scores and entering the wizard mode? I have gotten to the Frenzy mode a few times which is a blast. Thanks

#3897 1 year ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

Does Funhouse have a wizard mode? I am starting to get some decent scores, for me, 22Million, 25Million on factory settings.
I am wondering if there are any tricks to getting higher scores and entering the wizard mode? I have gotten to the Frenzy mode a few times which is a blast. Thanks

The closest thing would be completing all the modes on the mirror and getting "Super Frenzy" where all targets score 100k (I think).

A second to that would be completing the clock and getting the usual multiball mode, then getting jackpots by shooting the trap door and main ramp repeatedly. This is also how to really amp up your score.

#3898 1 year ago
Quoted from Zee:

The closest thing would be completing all the modes on the mirror and getting "Super Frenzy" where all targets score 100k (I think).
A second to that would be completing the clock and getting the usual multiball mode, then getting jackpots by shooting the trap door and main ramp repeatedly. This is also how to really amp up your score.

Awesome thanks. I have never gotten to Super Frenzy. Going to work on that now. I just added some color LEDs to the translite, blue and purple. Starting to look better.

#3899 1 year ago
Quoted from Zee:

The closest thing would be completing all the modes on the mirror and getting "Super Frenzy" where all targets score 100k (I think).
A second to that would be completing the clock and getting the usual multiball mode, then getting jackpots by shooting the trap door and main ramp repeatedly. This is also how to really amp up your score.

What he said^

Repeated jackpots on the same multiball go from 2 million to 3 to 4 to 5, etc.

Don’t undervalue lots of Rudy hits too. Especially when you earn multiple extra balls. End of bonus is 50k points per hit per end of ball. I scored 109 million as my highest and had 51 Rudy hits. That’s 2.5 million just for losing the ball.

And if you can get good and systematic with ball control during quick multiball from the mirror, each Rudy hit is worth one million.

The high game scores come from a lot of 1-2 million point things rather than some monster 25 million jackpot all at once.

#3900 1 year ago
Quoted from LitzDoc:

Awesome thanks. I have never gotten to Super Frenzy. Going to work on that now. I just added some color LEDs to the translite, blue and purple. Starting to look better.

Also, try to combine Frenzy and Super Frenzy. Time stacks to 40 seconds and 150k per switch. This is the time to shoot the pops. Don't tilt!

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