(Topic ID: 64458)

Funhouse!? Club... (Fans welcome)

By mof

8 years ago


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There are 3314 posts in this topic. You are on page 66 of 67.
#3251 33 days ago
Quoted from zerbam:

if they did i could not find them on their site yet

Hasn't happened .

#3252 33 days ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

About a year ago, didn't PPS say they were going to run a bunch of new eyeballs from the Williams molds? Perhaps they did?

They did and starship fantasy is making the 2 face/head pieces.

This is confirmed. I talked to them and they will have them done in the near future.
I think they will also do the eyes.

#3253 32 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Check the schematic carefully.
Attach a speaker (easiest) or even a DC voltmeter to the correct output pins of the sound card.
Check that all ribbon cables are correct and in the correct orientation, red to pin 1, and not plugged in, "off by one pin" or off by a whole line of pins.
With swapping boards etc ,if its hooked up right,
And if the roms are installed.
You will find the sound.
The cabinet speakers are a separate issue to the sound output from the sound board.

I'm connecting the wires from an old pair of headphones to the pins with the black and black/yellow wire connect (504 & 505?). No sound. I swapped sound boards, still no sound. I'm either doing something dumb (completely possible) or there is some issue upstream. Any thoughts of where to go from here?

#3254 32 days ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

I'm connecting the wires from an old pair of headphones to the pins with the black and black/yellow wire connect (504 & 505?). No sound. I swapped sound boards, still no sound. I'm either doing something dumb (completely possible) or there is some issue upstream. Any thoughts of where to go from here?

Do you have voltage?
Did you check the fuses?

#3255 32 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Do you have voltage?
Did you check the fuses?

OK, I'm going to be a dolt here...where do I check voltage on the sound board? Across the two pins we're discussing that lead to the speakers? Should it be 5v?

#3256 32 days ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

OK, I'm going to be a dolt here...where do I check voltage on the sound board? Across the two pins we're discussing that lead to the speakers? Should it be 5v?

My thoughts are, after swapping boards, that the sound board isnt getting power perhaps.

Power is delivered from the power/driver board.

I would check if there is power getting delivered to the board.

Fuses? Bad or loose fuse holder? Check fuses with an ohmmeter.
Loose/unplugged IDC wire or connection?
Cracked pin?
Wired wrong?

Check the obvious first.

Take a look at the schematics in the manual.

#3257 32 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

My thoughts are, after swapping boards, that the sound board isnt getting power perhaps.
Power is delivered from the power/driver board.
I would check if there is power getting delivered to the board.
Fuses?
Loose IDC wire or connection?
Cracked pin?
Wired wrong?

So, I get 5V coming from the CPU board. I do not appear to be getting 5V or 12V at the other connector coming from the transformer. This would explain why swapping sounds boards, cpu boards and ground straps didn't change anything.

However, I guess I don't know how to test voltage from the transformer? I'm not reading power on the green/gray wire coming from the transformer, but I tried testing the same thing in another of the same machine (that works), and I didn't get any power reading there either.

Is there something special about catching these readings? Multimeter on DC, one lead on the gray/green pin at the 15-pin molex, the other to ground strap. Same way I tested voltage from the CPU board. What am I missing?

#3258 32 days ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

So, I get 5V coming from the CPU board. I do not appear to be getting 5V or 12V at the other connector coming from the transformer. This would explain why swapping sounds boards, cpu boards and ground straps didn't change anything.
However, I guess I don't know how to test voltage from the transformer? I'm not reading power on the green/gray wire coming from the transformer, but I tried testing the same thing in another of the same machine (that works), and I didn't get any power reading there either.
Is there something special about catching these readings? Multimeter on DC, one lead on the gray/green pin at the 15-pin molex, the other to ground strap. Same way I tested voltage from the CPU board. What am I missing?

Peruse this document, there is a lot of great testing and diagnostic info here:

https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC

Is your game one of the earlier ones?

the sound overlay board acts as a power supply for the sound board on early games.

https://ksarcade.net/a-13502-williams-sound-overlay-board.html

It has fuses on it.

#3259 32 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Peruse this document, there is a lot of great testing and diagnostic info here:
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC
Is your game one of the earlier ones?
the sound overlay board acts as a power supply for the sound board on early games.
https://ksarcade.net/a-13502-williams-sound-overlay-board.html
It has fuses on it.

OK, I'm an idiot. I was measuring for DC, but it should have been AC from the transformer. At connector 501 I am getting 20VAC, and I'm getting 5VDC from the CPU. Fuses test fine, and I do not have a sound overlay board.

Sorry to be such a pain with this, but if my speaker circuit tests fine, and the sound board is getting proper power, it would seem the issue is somewhere on the sound board. But it seems unlikely I would have the same issue on 2 sound boards, one was confirmed good when it was removed a while back.

#3260 32 days ago

I was looking at getting a topper for my Funhouse and this is one of the ones available:

https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/funhouse-topper.html

I like how it plugs directly onto the circuit boards and doesn't use alligator clips.

I was wondering though if anyone knew to what sequence the lights on the topper go on and off by? I would assume they just mimic something already happening on the game. Is that right? Like either the blue/white/red flashers or one or more of the GI strings?

I see that it plugs into J137, which if I'm not mistaken is the same as what's going on on J138. And if that is the case, that's the entire lamp matrix.

Anyone with this topper care to share how it works? (I am asking in part because my red flashers are stuck on from a failed transistor so I have those three bulbs removed. I'd hate to spend this kind of money on a topper only to not have it work because of my issue with the red flashers).

#3261 32 days ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

OK, I'm an idiot. I was measuring for DC, but it should have been AC from the transformer. At connector 501 I am getting 20VAC, and I'm getting 5VDC from the CPU. Fuses test fine, and I do not have a sound overlay board.
Sorry to be such a pain with this, but if my speaker circuit tests fine, and the sound board is getting proper power, it would seem the issue is somewhere on the sound board. But it seems unlikely I would have the same issue on 2 sound boards, one was confirmed good when it was removed a while back.

Just to confirm, you are commanding the game to produce sounds, correct? Like in the tests menu, music tests?

#3262 32 days ago
Quoted from Zee:

Just to confirm, you are commanding the game to produce sounds, correct? Like in the tests menu, music tests?

Yes. I don't hear the bong or the coindoor button noises, but then I go into one of the music tests and still get nothing.

#3263 32 days ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

OK, I'm an idiot. I was measuring for DC, but it should have been AC from the transformer. At connector 501 I am getting 20VAC, and I'm getting 5VDC from the CPU. Fuses test fine, and I do not have a sound overlay board.
Sorry to be such a pain with this, but if my speaker circuit tests fine, and the sound board is getting proper power, it would seem the issue is somewhere on the sound board. But it seems unlikely I would have the same issue on 2 sound boards, one was confirmed good when it was removed a while back.

Could be a bad ribbon cable, trade them out, clean the pins.

If the issue persists after changing out the sound board:

Does the sound board work in another game?

You can leave the roms in. It will just play whatever is there in test.

Or trade out the roms etc.

If the board shows that its good, then check the wiring or ribbon cable.

If the CPU and sound are known to be good, then its the driver board or wiring or ribbon cable.

As a quick test trade the driver board too.

If all boards are known to be good, then its a connector or wiring or ribbon cable.

Check the fuses in the driver board with a meter. Check f114 for corrosion etc.

One more thing, reseat the connector on the coin door interconnect board and press all the idc wires in.

Check the coin door wiring and swtches.

A failure there may lower the volume to zero or affect the door volume control.

#3264 32 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Could be a bad ribbon cable, trade them out, clean the pins.
If the issue persists after changing out the sound board:
Does the sound board work in another game?
You can leave the roms in. It will just play whatever is there in test.
Or trade out the roms etc.
If the board shows that its good, then check the wiring or ribbon cable.
If the CPU and sound are known to be good, then its the driver board or wiring or ribbon cable.
As a quick test trade the driver board too.
If all boards are known to be good, then its a connector or wiring or ribbon cable.
Check the fuses in the driver board with a meter. Check f114 for corrosion etc.
One more thing, reseat the connector on the coin door interconnect board and press all the idc wires in.
Check the coin door wiring and swtches.
A failure there may lower the volume to zero or affect the door volume control.

Thanks for all this! This progression of things to check is really helpful.

In terms of swapping boards, the only game I have of *almost* this era is TZ. I know it has several additional boards, but of the sound/cpu/power driver, which of these are the same to where I could swap boards into TZ and boot it up to test them?

#3265 32 days ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

Thanks for all this! This progression of things to check is really helpful.
In terms of swapping boards, the only game I have of *almost* this era is TZ. I know it has several additional boards, but of the sound/cpu/power driver, which of these are the same to where I could swap boards into TZ and boot it up to test them?

Yes, they are definitely swappable!

The funhouse driver board has a relay on it that is unused on later games.

#3266 29 days ago

My FH steps gate in the lower left corner is not working properly. It does not open or close all the time when it is activated. I replaced the coil with a new one. Still not working 100%. Nothing is binding under the playfield. In test mode the coil buzzes but does not swing the gate. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

#3267 29 days ago
Quoted from drummermike:

My FH steps gate in the lower left corner is not working properly. It does not open or close all the time when it is activated. I replaced the coil with a new one. Still not working 100%. Nothing is binding under the playfield. In test mode the coil buzzes but does not swing the gate. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

It might be assembled wrong or too tight.

Test it manually, test its actuation manually with the playfield mostly down.
Test it from the bottom by actuating the coil manually, not the topside.

I cut a 2x4 to get it propped up mostly down like on modern games.

Its a weird mech. I had to fiddle with mine to get it right.

Its so loose/sloppy that if the plates go slightly out of adjustment it fails or binds as soon as you put the playfield down.

Once its set properly its pretty stable and solid though.

#3268 29 days ago

Could someone share a picture or two of a well set-up steps gate actuator? Mine works fine, although I have noticed at times it will stay open after it is meant to close and one flip of the left flipper button (and coil right next to the steps gate) will get it closed. Like there is some small amount of binding or sticking and the flipper coil vibration lets it loose. I have also seen it move slightly in small increments when closed when you flip the left flipper. Not like it will open, but it will move a little one direction, then move a little more in the same direction, then move back the other direction. Maybe it's just Rudy tormenting us?

#3269 29 days ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Could someone share a picture or two of a well set-up steps gate actuator?

Here are a couple; before and after game rebuilding.

DSC01706 (resized).JPGbottom8_2 (resized).jpg
#3270 28 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

It might be assembled wrong or too tight.
Test it manually, test its actuation manually with the playfield mostly down.
Test it from the bottom by actuating the coil manually, not the topside.
I cut a 2x4 to get it propped up mostly down like on modern games.
Its a weird mech. I had to fiddle with mine to get it right.
Its so loose/sloppy that if the plates go slightly out of adjustment it fails or binds as soon as you put the playfield down.
Once its set properly its pretty stable and solid though.

I only replaced the coil. It works manually. I had it for years and it just started to act up. The coil is magnetic so it can only be activated with power.
I will have to look at it again later. Thanks.

#3271 28 days ago

i had the exact same issue with the steps gate. The reason for the gate to stick open is the small rotating ring holding the gate shaft.

the friction was caused by the golden pin that is going all the way through the rotating ring, sticking out a tenth of an inch or so through the bottom surface. I just disassambled the ring, and made the surface on the bottom side very smooth and flush with fine sand-paper. It solved the issue completely and the gate is just working as it should since then.

#3272 28 days ago
Quoted from drummermike:

I only replaced the coil. It works manually. I had it for years and it just started to act up. The coil is magnetic so it can only be activated with power.
I will have to look at it again later. Thanks.

I had the luxury of working on the mech on my rotisserie when I did the restoration. In my case it was fairly corroded and had a bent loop on the post.

You should be able to just squeeze the the side of the mech that moves to actuate the gate.
If the pin is out of alignment in the slot, it wont move, but you would feel it binding.

There isnt a lot of adjustment on this mech but it can be finicky and bind up if its not right.

The only real adjustment is the bushing with the pin in it, relative to how the gate sits when at rest or actuated.
The long set screws have to be somewhat tight or it comes loose.

I pulled mine all apart for cleaning and polishing and replaced the gate post. It took a bit to get it working properly.

It seems that the wire loop in the gate post can bend over time and throw off the bushing adjustment so that its pin is not centered. Then it can start to bind up.

Could also just be low power to the coil.

Press on the driver board connectors or wiggle them. Im not sure which one is the steps gate. The schematic would tell what pin/connector it is. Might just be a loose IDC wire connection at the driver board.

Make sure the nut for the braided ground wire is tight at the bottom left of the back box.

Loose grounds cause low power.

#3273 28 days ago

I took out the gate post and put some lube on it. Something may have been out of alignment. It is working smoothly now. Thanks for all the advice.

#3274 28 days ago
Quoted from drummermike:

I took out the gate post and put some lube on it. Something may have been out of alignment. It is working smoothly now. Thanks for all the advice.

Yep, I just fiddled with it and now it works!

Its a finicky design I guess.

#3275 27 days ago
Quoted from Zee:

Here are a couple; before and after game rebuilding.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Right on, thanks.

On that second photo, you can see a small yellow presumably rubber sleeve over the end of the little peg that inserts into the bracket there. Is that factory? Or added afterwards? I don't have one of those on my game. Looks like it would take up some of that unnecessary slop in the movement.

IMG_5400 (resized).JPG
#3276 27 days ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Right on, thanks.
On that second photo, you can see a small yellow presumably rubber sleeve over the end of the little peg that inserts into the bracket there. Is that factory? Or added afterwards? I don't have one of those on my game. Looks like it would take up some of that unnecessary slop in the movement.[quoted image]

Mine does not have the sleeve. It is working nicely now though.

#3277 27 days ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Right on, thanks.
On that second photo, you can see a small yellow presumably rubber sleeve over the end of the little peg that inserts into the bracket there. Is that factory? Or added afterwards? I don't have one of those on my game. Looks like it would take up some of that unnecessary slop in the movement.[quoted image]

Regarding the sleeve: I think that was a piece of yellow heat-shrink tubing I put on there to take out the slop. That was 20 years ago so I'd forgotten about it!

The gate still works perfectly after hundreds of games so I can declare it a good modification.

#3278 27 days ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Right on, thanks.
On that second photo, you can see a small yellow presumably rubber sleeve over the end of the little peg that inserts into the bracket there. Is that factory? Or added afterwards? I don't have one of those on my game. Looks like it would take up some of that unnecessary slop in the movement.[quoted image]

I put a dab of silicone grease on the pin to reduce wear in the slot.

Any metal on metal rubbing can benefit from a tiny drop of super lube or silicone grease.

Just use it sparingly.

It would be great if some spare parts for the mech became available.

#3279 26 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I put a dab of silicone grease on the pin to reduce wear in the slot.
Any metal on metal rubbing can benefit from a tiny drop of super lube or silicone grease.
Just use it sparingly.
It would be great if some spare parts for the mech became available.

Marco has some of the parts.

#3280 20 days ago

There’s a post for the left shooter lane on the right side. Does everyone have a sleeve on that? Mine is tripping up my skillshot over there every time. I got new rubbers and can’t remember if had one on there before.

#3281 20 days ago
Quoted from paynemic:

There’s a post for the left shooter lane on the right side. Does everyone have a sleeve on that? Mine is tripping up my skillshot over there every time. I got new rubbers and can’t remember if had one on there before.

I shaved mine flat on the ball lane side and glued it onto the post so it does not rotate.

DSC00739 (resized).JPG
#3282 20 days ago
Quoted from paynemic:

There’s a post for the left shooter lane on the right side. Does everyone have a sleeve on that? Mine is tripping up my skillshot over there every time. I got new rubbers and can’t remember if had one on there before.

No sleeve.

It will interfere with the ball launch more often than not.

Even pics of the prototype have it off.

A lot of people just apply some shrink tube over the post to protect the ball.

This works really well, and you can get colors if needed.

#3283 20 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

No sleeve.
It will interfere with the ball launch more often than not.
Even pics of the prototype have it off.
A lot of people just apply some shrink tube over the post to protect the ball.
This works really well, and you can get colors if needed.

I find that there is some subtle movement in how you set down the playfield that affects whether the steps plunger hits the ball square or not. Like you can adjust the shooter rod bracket perfectly and then low and behold it's moved somehow. I found it's how the apron and playfield comes down that changes positions. Not a ton, but enough to hit the ball slightly off centre. Like hitting a cue ball playing pool off centre without any chalk on your cue and mishitting it. That's had the biggest impact on my steps plunger going by freely, is whether the rubber tip of the shooter rod stays centred on the ball.

#3284 20 days ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

I find that there is some subtle movement in how you set down the playfield that affects whether the steps plunger hits the ball square or not. Like you can adjust the shooter rod bracket perfectly and then low and behold it's moved somehow. I found it's how the apron and playfield comes down that changes positions. Not a ton, but enough to hit the ball slightly off centre. Like hitting a cue ball playing pool off centre without any chalk on your cue and mishitting it. That's had the biggest impact on my steps plunger going by freely, is whether the rubber tip of the shooter rod stays centred on the ball.

Yes its a bit critical. I put a playfield screw in the lockdown slot to stabilize it a bit. Or at least give me a guided approach when I set the playfield back down so that its centered on both shooter lanes.

The shrink tube on the naked post is one of the best fixes I found though.

#3285 19 days ago

I cured this on mine by putting a slim plastic shim between the shooter housing and the cabinet. It was enough to pull the shooter dead centre and I no longer have issues with that. Others I know have actually filed out the cabinet to pull the entire shooter mech across a bit further but that was a little extreme for my liking.
Removing the post sleeve would still help for a plunge that didn’t make it to the first step, as when it rolls back down towards the plunger it can hit that post and bounce out back into play. The only reason it hits the post on the way up after plunging is because the plunger is not dead centre. If that makes any sense!!

#3286 18 days ago

Thanks all!

#3287 17 days ago

So I just went to install a new coin door as my old one was dented pretty bad and I just noticed the connector is the same but the door open switch is mounted differently and the coin door wires are slightly different.

Old door is 3 coin door and new is 2.

Has anyone gone from old style to new style door and aware of steps I need to follow?

20211009_085942 (resized).jpg20211009_090003 (resized).jpg20211009_090016 (resized).jpg20211009_090028 (resized).jpg
#3288 17 days ago
Quoted from JoeJet:

So I just went to install a new coin door as my old one was dented pretty bad and I just noticed the connector is the same but the door open switch is mounted differently and the coin door wires are slightly different.
Old door is 3 coin door and new is 2.
Has anyone gone from old style to new style door and aware of steps I need to follow?

Coin doors are pretty easy to swap, but the pinouts do vary a bit. I did one awhile back on my WPC89 machine, and found the simplest way to do so, was to simply look at the old harness, and trace the connector position wires back to the microswitches and the lamps. Each connector position in your OLD hardness should be noted down on paper as to what it connects to. Don't worry about which side of a bulb or switch the wire connects to as there is no polarity on either. Then match it up on the new door. Just a handful of wires, so not a big process at all. And if your new door is 2 slots, no worries since you just won't connect to the third slot wiring. Its really an easy thing to do. Just follow the colors on the wires, see which connector position each wire needs to land in, and then attach to match. You'll get it done in short work.

#3289 16 days ago

Just about done with the work on the cabinet. Hope to get started soon on stripping the playfield down.

20211010_194010 (resized).jpg
#3290 16 days ago
Quoted from JoeJet:

So I just went to install a new coin door as my old one was dented pretty bad and I just noticed the connector is the same but the door open switch is mounted differently and the coin door wires are slightly different.
Old door is 3 coin door and new is 2.
Has anyone gone from old style to new style door and aware of steps I need to follow?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I could be wrong but generally 3 coins is Europe. Was your pin a re-import?. Otherwise I don’t think there’s much of a difference

#3291 15 days ago

I mostly see 1 coin slot accepting all the different coins in Germany...

#3292 15 days ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

I could be wrong but generally 3 coins is Europe. Was your pin a re-import?. Otherwise I don’t think there’s much of a difference

Correct. Originally the 3 slot coin doors went to Europe.

30+ years later I am sure lots of coin doors have been swapped around.

#3293 15 days ago
Quoted from WizzardRob:

I mostly see 1 coin slot accepting all the different coins in Germany...

Oh crap i did not notice i was in the funhouse thread... yes thats correct 3 slots here. For modern sterns its usually 1 for all coins

#3294 15 days ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Just follow the colors on the wires, see which connector position each wire needs to land in, and then attach to match. You'll get it done in short work.

Thanks, what was throwing me off is the wires are different colors and 3 vs 2 = more wires. So I traced then all and everything lines up old and new.

Only one remaining issue. In the old coin door the high power cut off switch was built into the door. I see the new requires that I mount the switch in the cab. I guess there is a switch holder on Marco will start digging

16339954751141806278052296100803 (resized).jpg16339955424556098865829254832954 (resized).jpg
#3295 15 days ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

Was your pin a re-import?.

Not sure, looks like US game, could be prior owner converted it.

#3296 15 days ago
Quoted from JoeJet:

Not sure, looks like US game, could be prior owner converted it.

What is the voltage listed on the serial number tag? If it says 220v 50hz it is an imported game.

1 week later
#3297 7 days ago

I am reassembling my FH and just noticed I have a broken hex post standoff, can anyone tell me the part number of this or just the length so I can try to track it down?

1019211434_HDR (resized).jpg
#3298 7 days ago
Quoted from killerrobots:

I am reassembling my FH and just noticed I have a broken hex post standoff, can anyone tell me the part number of this or just the length so I can try to track it down?[quoted image]

Looks like it's 2 standoffs:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/another-funhouse-playfield-swap-3#post-5590178

Maybe this also helps:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-club/page/28#post-4716978

#3299 7 days ago

Thanks, I think that is enough for me to figure it out. Although, I still can't find the post w/ base anywhere. I guess I will guess use a flat head screw on the bottom.

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