Neenah, WI
Ground, schmound. Half the fun is feeling a tingle when you touch two games at once!
Do I have to mention I'm kidding?
(Topic ID: 64458)
Just finished repainting the playfield and adding waterslide decals. Ready for clearcoat. Repainting will never be perfect but I am pretty happy with it.
Here is before a nice cleaning:
Here is nice before and after painting:
Could someone tell me what the correct screw to use is for the metal flap at the bottom of the ramp? These are the ones that screw into the wood of the playfield underneath. They have a flat top to sit flush when they're all the way in so the ball doesn't catch them on the way by. I don't see them listed in the manual. Thanks.
EDIT: not sure if they are the same screws as used on the flap at the bottom of the steps plunger ramp? I don't know what those are either.
Budapest
Quoted from AlexRogan84:Could someone tell me what the correct screw to use is for the metal flap at the bottom of the ramp? These are the ones that screw into the wood of the playfield underneath. They have a flat top to sit flush when they're all the way in so the ball doesn't catch them on the way by. I don't see them listed in the manual. Thanks.
EDIT: not sure if they are the same screws as used on the flap at the bottom of the steps plunger ramp? I don't know what those are either.
Ramp screw.
https://www.pinballlife.com/ramp-screw.html
Quoted from AlexRogan84:Could someone tell me what the correct screw to use is for the metal flap at the bottom of the ramp? These are the ones that screw into the wood of the playfield underneath. They have a flat top to sit flush when they're all the way in so the ball doesn't catch them on the way by. I don't see them listed in the manual. Thanks.
EDIT: not sure if they are the same screws as used on the flap at the bottom of the steps plunger ramp? I don't know what those are either.
I have a bunch. Just PM me if you want some and I can throw a few in an envelope and mail them to you for free.
Ramp screw??!! What a silly name... of course, hahaha. Thanks. And much appreciated on the offer to throw a couple in the mail. Hold tight on that for a bit as I'll see if the hardware store has some locally. I know how it is with needing to buy the box of 100 of such things... hopefully that won't be necessary.
Quoted from AlexRogan84:Ramp screw??!! What a silly name... of course, hahaha. Thanks. And much appreciated on the offer to throw a couple in the mail. Hold tight on that for a bit as I'll see if the hardware store has some locally. I know how it is with needing to buy the box of 100 of such things... hopefully that won't be necessary.
I had to buy a pack of 100 and have them mail-ordered because no hardware store had that small size. Maybe in your area? 
Just let me know and I'll be happy to send you some.
Quoted from brado426:I had to buy a pack of 100 and have them mail-ordered because no hardware store had that small size. Maybe in your area? Just let me know and I'll be happy to send you some.
I bought a box at Ace hardware.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I bought a box at Ace hardware.
Yeah.... Ace has everything. The one by me closed. 
I did find a pack of 33 for $3 at the Home Depot near me. Problem is though that one of the two holes has been enlargened and the screw won't bite. It just spins. This is the rightside screw hole. The leftside has a screw and is fine, but I feel like the lip of the ramp needs to be snugged down a little more as it seems like every so often the ball catches a little bit of air and then gets rejected by the wire gate instead of shooting by it.
Is this kind of wood hole repair done with filling it in with sawdust or wood glue or something along those lines? Never had to do anything like that before. I'm sure it isn't crazy hard, just getting the good access by removing everything is probably the bigger challenge on the FH.
Quoted from AlexRogan84:I did find a pack of 33 for $3 at the Home Depot near me. Problem is though that one of the two holes has been enlargened and the screw won't bite. It just spins. This is the rightside screw hole. The leftside has a screw and is fine, but I feel like the lip of the ramp needs to be snugged down a little more as it seems like every so often the ball catches a little bit of air and then gets rejected by the wire gate instead of shooting by it.
Is this kind of wood hole repair done with filling it in with sawdust or wood glue or something along those lines? Never had to do anything like that before. I'm sure it isn't crazy hard, just getting the good access by removing everything is probably the bigger challenge on the FH.
Put wood glue on a tooth pick, stick it in the hole and break it off...then drive in the screw
Quoted from cosmokramer:Put wood glue on a tooth pick, stick it in the hole and break it off...then drive in the screw
Toothpick, thanks. I think that's what I was trying to think of when I said sawdust lol. I'll give it a shot.
Quoted from AlexRogan84:Toothpick, thanks. I think that's what I was trying to think of when I said sawdust lol. I'll give it a shot.
Im using bamboo skewers now, and titebond 3. Titebond 3 is amazing.
They are a bit harder and work better.
Cut to 1/4" or 3/8" lengths depending on the hole depth. Measure with a 1/16" drill bit..
Mostly 3/8", i precut a batch for general use.
On my DW every single screw, bar-none, was stripped.
Lots of bamboo and its as firm as new.
I remember getting a knock when you achieved an extra ball . I looked into settings and couldn’t find it . Am I mistaken from another game ?
Quoted from HC2016:I remember getting a knock when you achieved an extra ball . I looked into settings and couldn’t find it . Am I mistaken from another game ?
Not all the extra balls knock.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Not all the extra balls knock.
Not getting any , just replays . So there’s no setting for it ?
Quoted from HC2016:Not getting any , just replays . So there’s no setting for it ?
Check the knocker in test.
Quoted from HC2016:I remember getting a knock when you achieved an extra ball . I looked into settings and couldn’t find it . Am I mistaken from another game ?
If you set your REPLY to Extra Ball, then most extra balls will give a knock. If you put Special to Extra Ball as well, then al extra balls will give a knock. (And, you'll get one on match, too.)
Quoted from Coyote:If you set your REPLY to Extra Ball, then most extra balls will give a knock. If you put Special to Extra Ball as well, then al extra balls will give a knock. (And, you'll get one on match, too.)
Gonna try that right now
Quoted from HC2016:I remember getting a knock when you achieved an extra ball . I looked into settings and couldn’t find it . Am I mistaken from another game ?
When I updated from L5 to L-9 rom code, the knocker didn't fire for extra ball. I thought it was normal and that this was removed from L-9. Well, later, I reset to factory defaults and the knocker started working for extra ball again. Strange... but that's what happened.
Quoted from brado426:When I updated from L5 to L-9 rom code, the knocker didn't fire for extra ball. I thought it was normal and that this was removed from L-9. Well, later, I reset to factory defaults and the knocker started working for extra ball again. Strange... but that's what happened.
Yeah. I usually reset to defaults with a ROM update.
It clears out some of the unneeded garbage.
Quoted from Coyote:If you set your REPLY to Extra Ball, then most extra balls will give a knock. If you put Special to Extra Ball as well, then al extra balls will give a knock. (And, you'll get one on match, too.)
That was it thanks … now when Xtra ball is lit for the loop , it knocks
Are these legs non-standard? They seem to have a weird crimp to them. Pulls them in so tight that even with metal leg protectors it still puckers the radcals. Any thoughts?
pinballinreno did you do radcals?
07B83ACD-0B61-499D-8C02-6345FB65E2D7 (resized).jpeg4D7FFDB7-ACF6-4C5A-BF06-2EB05DAA4C0C (resized).jpeg
Quoted from paynemic:Are these legs non-standard? They seem to have a weird crimp to them. Pulls them in so tight that even with metal leg protectors it still puckers the radcals. Any thoughts?
pinballinreno did you do radcals?
[quoted image][quoted image]
I did not do radcals.
However i measure the legs to see if they are over 90 degrees. Or if they dig in. Some of the legs arent right.
Spooky had tons of trouble from that vendor, whoever it was that stamped them.
They were powdercoated, so a bit harder to adjust.
Over 90 degrees they dont dig in.
If they are less than 90 degrees i have to open them up in my vise a bit.
I crush the top on a piece of (2" maybe? Its just a 10" long piece of scrap) steel pipe while protecting the outer suface with 3 or 4 layers of terry shop towls.
A couple adjusted crushes and they are fine. Use a cheater pipe on the vise handle.
93 to 95 degrees works pretty good.
I Still use the mantis leg protectors.
They are really good.
Quoted from DanQverymuch:You need a visit from the vise squad.
All fixed lol
Talk to text is anazing...
Since we are currently on the topic of cabinet decals and leg protectors....
When I did decals on my ES, didn't use leg protectors and of course the decals "blistered" out at the legs... ugh. When I did WW, I put leg protectors on but over the decals... they blister out there as well, but at least the legs cover it up. So this go around when I did decals on FH...
Mounted the leg protectors and used a metal ruler from a combination square as a thickness guide to trim the decal with a razor.
Speaker upgrade question:
Funhouse (and The Machine) are odd duck WPC when it comes to the sound system as they use 8Ω speakers. I'm looking to upgrade said pins and I'm getting all hung up on 4Ω VS 8Ω and can't find any clear cut info.
Finding 8Ω speakers for the backbox is.... not as easy as I'd like. Finding 4Ω speakers, plenty of options that people suggest for later generations of WPCs.
Backbox speakers are wires up parallel, so the total circuit is 4Ω. Taking two 4Ω speaker and wire them up parallel will yield 2Ω and that seems to be bad. So is taking two 4Ω speakers and wire them up in series so the total circuit is 8Ω safe for the sound board? Will this mute or lower the overall volume of the back box speakers? And is there some sort of cross over I should have to filter out the lows from the backbox?
Cabinet woofer.... again, factory unit is 8Ω. Finding 8Ω woofers isn't much of an issue for a low price. And of course 4Ω woofers are all over the place. I'm now planning on a 8Ω woofer. How important do you think a crossover will be to filter out the highs? Kind of the issue I have with crossovers, I seen to only find 4Ω versions. So is a 4Ω crossover OK to use with a 8Ω speaker? Or is a 4Ω crossover and 4Ω speaker safe for the sound board? Or do I really need a crossover at all?
Lots of rando opinions out there... I'm hoping to get some input from people who have actually done this.... maybe has some part numbers and "long term testing" feedback.
Thank you.
Quoted from pencilneck:Speaker upgrade question:
Funhouse (and The Machine) are odd duck WPC when it comes to the sound system as they use 8Ω speakers. I'm looking to upgrade said pins and I'm getting all hung up on 4Ω VS 8Ω and can't find any clear cut info.
Finding 8Ω speakers for the backbox is.... not as easy as I'd like. Finding 4Ω speakers, plenty of options that people suggest for later generations of WPCs.
Backbox speakers are wires up parallel, so the total circuit is 4Ω. Taking two 4Ω speaker and wire them up parallel will yield 2Ω and that seems to be bad. So is taking two 4Ω speakers and wire them up in series so the total circuit is 8Ω safe for the sound board? Will this mute or lower the overall volume of the back box speakers? And is there some sort of cross over I should have to filter out the lows from the backbox?
Cabinet woofer.... again, factory unit is 8Ω. Finding 8Ω woofers isn't much of an issue for a low price. And of course 4Ω woofers are all over the place. I'm now planning on a 8Ω woofer. How important do you think a crossover will be to filter out the highs? Kind of the issue I have with crossovers, I seen to only find 4Ω versions. So is a 4Ω crossover OK to use with a 8Ω speaker? Or is a 4Ω crossover and 4Ω speaker safe for the sound board? Or do I really need a crossover at all?
Lots of rando opinions out there... I'm hoping to get some input from people who have actually done this.... maybe has some part numbers and "long term testing" feedback.
Thank you.
I just got the replacement set from pinball pro or flipper fidelity.
Flipper fidelity are easier to install. They have a slick system.
Both sets have bass to backbox crossover for good adjustment.
If you go pinsound you get stereo and subwoofer adjustment. Plus the ability to easily add a shaker.
My recent over the top restoration used pinball pro.
They sound great.
Quoted from pencilneck:Speaker upgrade question:
Funhouse (and The Machine) are odd duck WPC when it comes to the sound system as they use 8Ω speakers. I'm looking to upgrade said pins and I'm getting all hung up on 4Ω VS 8Ω and can't find any clear cut info.
Finding 8Ω speakers for the backbox is.... not as easy as I'd like. Finding 4Ω speakers, plenty of options that people suggest for later generations of WPCs.
Backbox speakers are wires up parallel, so the total circuit is 4Ω. Taking two 4Ω speaker and wire them up parallel will yield 2Ω and that seems to be bad. So is taking two 4Ω speakers and wire them up in series so the total circuit is 8Ω safe for the sound board? Will this mute or lower the overall volume of the back box speakers? And is there some sort of cross over I should have to filter out the lows from the backbox?
Cabinet woofer.... again, factory unit is 8Ω. Finding 8Ω woofers isn't much of an issue for a low price. And of course 4Ω woofers are all over the place. I'm now planning on a 8Ω woofer. How important do you think a crossover will be to filter out the highs? Kind of the issue I have with crossovers, I seen to only find 4Ω versions. So is a 4Ω crossover OK to use with a 8Ω speaker? Or is a 4Ω crossover and 4Ω speaker safe for the sound board? Or do I really need a crossover at all?
Lots of rando opinions out there... I'm hoping to get some input from people who have actually done this.... maybe has some part numbers and "long term testing" feedback.
Thank you.
To be safe, if you are merely swapping the physical speakers, then match the factory ohms. You'll reduce any possible issues for any possible reason. That said, a number of pre-made kits (e.g. flipper fidelity) are already available which makes the most out of the WPC sound drivers, or for the high-end adventurer, the active kits (i.e. Pinsound) have been used and offer original and updated soundtracks which enable a wide range of speaker combinations to be used. For me, I choose to roll my own for FH and just bought matching speakers with better coils and cones.
Quoted from Markharris2000:To be safe, if you are merely swapping the physical speakers, then match the factory ohms. You'll reduce any possible issues for any possible reason. That said, a number of pre-made kits (e.g. flipper fidelity) are already available which makes the most out of the WPC sound drivers, or for the high-end adventurer, the active kits (i.e. Pinsound) have been used and offer original and updated soundtracks which enable a wide range of speaker combinations to be used. For me, I choose to roll my own for FH and just bought matching speakers with better coils and cones.
Pinsound with the shaker rocks!
Got the cabinet reassembled on my restore. Came out pretty good, I really like the red powder coat. I painted and clear coated the coin door but if I had to do it again I would have gotten it powder coated black. Painted a lot of the inside hardware black. I had painted over my ground strap (as it was already somewhat painted at the factory) but it was too thick with paint so I ended up installing a new ground strap. I also got a set of new factory stickers. I am almost done clear-coating the playfield (maybe one more coat) and the I have to wait 6-10 weeks. The decals look pretty good but I think they were old and the adhesive was not very strong. I ended up using double-sided carpet tape on all the edges. I also had to use an x-acto around the legs and bolts to keep it from puckering. For a first effort it is ok but next time I will research better to find better decals. I need to work on restoring my Rudy, anyone have any advice on repainting him? Createx airbrushing is what I was thinking.
Quoted from killerrobots:Got the cabinet reassembled on my restore. Came out pretty good, I really like the red powder coat. I painted and clear coated the coin door but if I had to do it again I would have gotten it powder coated black. Painted a lot of the inside hardware black. I had painted over my ground strap (as it was already somewhat painted at the factory) but it was too thick with paint so I ended up installing a new ground strap. I also got a set of new factory stickers. I am almost done clear-coating the playfield (maybe one more coat) and the I have to wait 6-10 weeks. The decals look pretty good but I think they were old and the adhesive was not very strong. I ended up using double-sided carpet tape on all the edges. I also had to use an x-acto around the legs and bolts to keep it from puckering. For a first effort it is ok but next time I will research better to find better decals. I need to work on restoring my Rudy, anyone have any advice on repainting him? Createx airbrushing is what I was thinking.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
If you are unhappy with the decal adhesion at this point, you will be more un happy down the road.
Surface prep might be the issue? I dont have much to say without seeing it.
They will probably get worse if you think the glue is bad.
If it were me, Id just call it a loss and re-decal it with fresh decals.
Paul at virtua-pin makes them as well as phoenix arcade graphics.
Phoenix Arcade has a screen printed process that looks very good! And the price is ok too.
https://www.phoenixarcade.com/products/funhouse/funhouse-5-piece-cabinet-decal-set-tpf-approved
They will be fresh.
Quoted from killerrobots:Got the cabinet reassembled on my restore.
Great minds think alike! Tons of effort for something no one will see, love it! IMHO, worth the effort because any time you have to get into the cabinet, you are blessed with greatness... not smudges and 2 dead roaches.
For comparison -
My FH restoration cabinet innards from back in the day (2001). Wish I would have painted the bare MDF like you did, but in semi-gloss black.
DSC00630 (resized).JPGDSC00631 (resized).JPGDSC00644 (resized).JPGDSC00646 (resized).JPGDSC00648 (resized).JPGDSC00627 (resized).JPGQuoted from pinballinreno:If you are unhappy with the decal adhesion at this point, you will be more un happy down the road.
Surface prep might be the issue? I dont have much to say without seeing it.
They will probably get worse if you think the glue is bad.
If it were me, Id just call it a loss and re-decal it with fresh decals.
Paul at virtua-pin makes them as well as phoenix arcade graphics.
Phoenix Arcade has a screen printed process that looks very good! And the price is ok too.
https://www.phoenixarcade.com/products/funhouse/funhouse-5-piece-cabinet-decal-set-tpf-approved
They will be fresh.
You are probably right, not too crazy about having to buy them again. I think they were just old. The backs were scuffed up like they had been sitting around somewhere forever. If I am going to do it again, better now then later but I am going to have to work myself up to it.
Anyone ever repainted a Rudy? I have some gauges I would like to fill and am wondering what the best filler would be, bondo seems a bit of overkill. I am also wondering if I could clearcoat the plastic with 2k after painting to make it more durable?
Quoted from Zee:For comparison -
My FH restoration cabinet innards from back in the day (2001). Wish I would have painted the bare MDF like you did, but in semi-gloss black.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Yeah I like that it is all painted on the inside. I would have liked to have kept the bottom wood but it was so stained that I couldn't see being able to sand it clean enough. I also rolled it with a foam roller so it has a slight orange peel up close. I would liked to have sprayed it but it is a pain to get that all set up in my garage so I decided to roll. I have mini-paint booth setup which works for smaller things like the playfield but is too small for an entire cabinet.
0810211208_HDR (1) (resized).jpgQuoted from killerrobots:Yeah I like that it is all painted on the inside. I would have liked to have kept the bottom wood but it was so stained that I couldn't see being able to sand it clean enough. I also rolled it with a foam roller so it has a slight orange peel up close. I would liked to have sprayed it but it is a pain to get that all set up in my garage so I decided to roll. I have mini-paint booth setup which works for smaller things like the playfield but is too small for an entire cabinet.[quoted image]
When I need a spray booth, I set up one garage bay for the purpose with roll-down plastic walls. When done, I roll them back up and tie them in place.
20200704_105325 (resized).jpg20200704_105346 (resized).jpg20200704_105352 (resized).jpg20200704_105424 (resized).jpg20200704_105554 (resized).jpgQuoted from killerrobots:You are probably right, not too crazy about having to buy them again. I think they were just old. The backs were scuffed up like they had been sitting around somewhere forever. If I am going to do it again, better now then later but I am going to have to work myself up to it.
Anyone ever repainted a Rudy? I have some gauges I would like to fill and am wondering what the best filler would be, bondo seems a bit of overkill. I am also wondering if I could clearcoat the plastic with 2k after painting to make it more durable?
Jjsmooth goes over the proceedure in detail here, starting with post #97 :
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/2020-funhouse-resto/page/2
Its not too hard, just time consuming.
He might paint it for you if he has the time. PM him is like $125 but amazing work.
I had modfather paint my rudy.
Its my 8th and final Funhouse, i wanted something different.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Jjsmooth goes over the proceedure in detail here, starting with post #97 :
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/2020-funhouse-resto/page/2
Its not too hard, just time consuming.
He might paint it for you if he has the time. PM him is like $125 but amazing work.
I had modfather paint my rudy.
Its my 8th and final Funhouse, i wanted something different.
Thanks, what he did was impressive. I am sure my first attempt will not be nearly as nice and it isn't really a skill I generally need. I will reach out to him.
Quoted from Zee:You might consider replacing the top ramp deflector with a simpler, cleaner version (if you don't mind a non-stock appearance)
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks, that part of the project is a little ahead of me but I will consider it when I get there.
Quoted from Zee:When I need a spray booth, I set up one garage bay for the purpose with roll-down plastic walls. When done, I roll them back up and tie them in place.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
In the past I have done the same but it is a pain and ties up the garage for weeks (my wife's sides...). My set up works great for playfields and I can keep it up all the time (the plastic rolls up and clips to the top). It has filtered air in a down draft that keeps fumes away from my face. However I don't think it is robust enough for a full HPLV setup but it does work for the 2k in a can just fine.
1124202037_HDR (resized).jpgQuoted from killerrobots:In the past I have done the same but it is a pain and ties up the garage for weeks (my wife's sides...). My set up works great for playfields and I can keep it up all the time (the plastic rolls up and clips to the top). It has filtered air in a down draft that keeps fumes away from my face. However I don't think it is robust enough for a full HPLV setup but it does work for the 2k in a can just fine.
[quoted image]
What's this "2k in a can" you mentioned?
Quoted from killerrobots:what he did was impressive
He just finished up 6 of them that were in rough shape.
Lots of experience there.
Quoted from Zee:What's this "2k in a can" you mentioned?
Spraymax 2k glamour coat.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Spraymax 2k glamour coat.
Oh that's interesting! Sort of a small quantity catalyzed clear.
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