Quoted from Zablon:Needs it because the L-9 rom is a bigger rom than the old ones. If it does work at all, it would only partially work. Doesn't impact sound quality.
Thanks!
(Topic ID: 64458)
Lake Forest, CA
Quoted from Markharris2000:There are a bunch of tiny enhancements, probably the biggest is the Enter Initials sequence for high score entry. It becomes quite a light show with a soundtrack that matches. Rudy's eye can be active more of the time too. Bunch of other tiny fixes/updates. But as you saw, coins are not supported to prevent this original author's personal version from being routed.
I'm pretty sure the Enter Initials light show changes are also included in the F-9 rom. I updated the one sound rom to U-3 and got the enhanced light show with that. I did try 9.05h as well, but I'll be damned if I could notice any difference except for the blinking eyes.
Quoted from AlexRogan84:Thanks. My ROM's are both L-2 for the sound and the game itself. So a little out of date.
What was the last one Williams themselves did back in the day? L-9? I see the "smart trap door" feature and that looks like a good thing to have.That's a good idea about the metal guides. I figure when my plastics come I'll test fit these pieces before committing to screwing them into place.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Your trapdoor hinge is loose and should be replaced.
You are missing the trapdoor stop bracket that keeps the front of the door from sagging down and breaking the flap and hinge.
Most games are missing the tiny piece. Its a pain to install because you have to loosen the trapdoor assembly and remove the subway.
Most repro playfields have a dimple for this and guys dont know what its for, lol.
However, you really must have this small part.
Quoted from yzfguy:I have the L-9 in my game. Do these jumpers and all change the sound quality, or it wouldn't be working at all without these changes?
The jumper allows a bigger EPROM to be used. Early games L3 and below had smaller gamecode and rules, and after L4 the software got so big they needed to install larger eproms, hence the jumper.
This jumper has no effect on anything else.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Your trapdoor hinge is loose and should be replaced.
You are missing the trapdoor stop bracket that keeps the front of the door from sagging down and breaking the flap and hinge.
Most games are missing the tiny piece. Its a pain to install because you have to loosen the trapdoor assembly and remove the subway.
Most repro playfields have a dimple for this and guys dont know what its for, lol.
However, you really must have this small part.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10223
Wow, lots of good information here. Thanks!!
I just put an order in with Marco like 3 hours ago, lol. Would have loved to throw this bracket in there. Next time I guess.
Do you happen to have some photos showing the bracket installed?
Quoted from AlexRogan84:Wow, lots of good information here. Thanks!!
I just put an order in with Marco like 3 hours ago, lol. Would have loved to throw this bracket in there. Next time I guess.
Do you happen to have some photos showing the bracket installed?
You might be able to call them and add it on...
Quoted from AlexRogan84:Wow, lots of good information here. Thanks!!
I just put an order in with Marco like 3 hours ago, lol. Would have loved to throw this bracket in there. Next time I guess.
Do you happen to have some photos showing the bracket installed?
Call them and add it on
Quoted from AlexRogan84:Wow, lots of good information here. Thanks!!
I just put an order in with Marco like 3 hours ago, lol. Would have loved to throw this bracket in there. Next time I guess.
Do you happen to have some photos showing the bracket installed?
Here ya go.
Its a tiny bracket on the lip of the trap door cutout.
A tiny but powerful addition to the game.
You can install it by lifing the subway out of the way.
You dont have to loosen the trapdoor assembly, i was thinking about the hinge replacement.
Quoted from AlexRogan84:Right on. Simple solutions are the best. My order shipped already. I might MacGyver one though...
Yep, its a simple little clip.
It rides about 0.5 to 1mm below the front edge of the trap door when installed. It doesnt touch the door.
Although with some patience you can get it to fit very close without touching.
This allows for some slight trap door compression and an easy install.
It keeps the door from over extending downward and bending/breaking the hinge.
Quoted from Markharris2000:With L3 installed now, you probably need to move the jumper.
Great, thanks all. L-9 booting fine.
One change I notice is that the shooter eject is very weak the first time, and then the second time is stronger and always gets it into the shooter. This happens every time, not intermittently. Eject worked fine before switching roms. I read someone else having this problem with L-9 on a non-pinside thread, but no solutions. Is it a software bug?
Quoted from canea:Great, thanks all. L-9 booting fine.
One change I notice is that the shooter eject is very weak the first time, and then the second time is stronger and always gets it into the shooter. This happens every time, not intermittently. Eject worked fine before switching roms. I read someone else having this problem with L-9 on a non-pinside thread, but no solutions. Is it a software bug?
Regardless of the strength, bend the arm that contacts the ball slightly so that it is centered on the ball to be ejected. It will work 
Quoted from canea:Great, thanks all. L-9 booting fine.
One change I notice is that the shooter eject is very weak the first time, and then the second time is stronger and always gets it into the shooter. This happens every time, not intermittently. Eject worked fine before switching roms. I read someone else having this problem with L-9 on a non-pinside thread, but no solutions. Is it a software bug?
I noticed that too.... the eject power is low with the newer version of the rom. I adjusted my trough so that it does eject most of the time, but sometimes the ball still doesn't make it and it has to try again for the second time. I even bought a new trough metal piece, but it actually made things worse. So I'm not sure what the problem is with my trough. Before I had received this machine, someone had bent the trough bracket to make it work reliably so I just bent it a bit more. I would like to know the correct solution to this myself. It was never a problem with the older L-5 rom.
Quoted from yzfguy:It will work
It did work. Thanks. 
Quoted from brado426:the eject power is low with the newer version of the rom
Definitely lower strength.
Seems like jumper is only required on L9 though. I recently went from proto to L-5 without moving a jumper.
Quoted from canea:Great, thanks all. L-9 booting fine.
One change I notice is that the shooter eject is very weak the first time, and then the second time is stronger and always gets it into the shooter. This happens every time, not intermittently. Eject worked fine before switching roms. I read someone else having this problem with L-9 on a non-pinside thread, but no solutions. Is it a software bug?
So did you have to move the jumper? Was it already correct? etc etc.
As for problems with L-9, as I asked before, if you have an early game with the old style sound board (has an actual volume knob in the cab) from what I understand you can't go above L-5 or it won't work. Doesn't mean that is their problem (maybe didn't do the jumper move), but it is something to have them check.
Quoted from Zablon:Seems like jumper is only required on L9 though. I recently went from proto to L-5 without moving a jumper.
So did you have to move the jumper? Was it already correct? etc etc.
As for problems with L-9, as I asked before, if you have an early game with the old style sound board (has an actual volume knob in the cab) from what I understand you can't go above L-5 or it won't work. Doesn't mean that is their problem (maybe didn't do the jumper move), but it is something to have them check.
It’s actually the size of the ROM that determines if you need the jumper moved. Most factory ROMs L3 or before were burned into 1meg EPROMs. After L3 they started using 2meg roms. That said, that is only the rule when using genuine factory supplied ROMs. Lots of machines have ROMs that came from other places. L3 and earlier versions could be burned into ANY size ROM, but L4 and beyond REQUIRED 2meg chips.
I tried to keep it simple, but it has some obscure details….
Quoted from Markharris2000:It’s actually the size of the ROM that determines if you need the jumper moved. Most factory ROMs L3 or before were burned into 1meg EPROMs. After L3 they started using 2meg roms. That said, that is only the rule when using genuine factory supplied ROMs. Lots of machines have ROMs that came from other places. L3 and earlier versions could be burned into ANY size ROM, but L4 and beyond REQUIRED 2meg chips.
I tried to keep it simple, but it has some obscure details….
Still not tracking what you are saying because I've never seen anything that says L4 and beyond require you to move the jumper. Just for L-9. I don't remember the size details, but as I said, I didn't move the jumper when going to L-5 and mine was long before L-3. I'm not saying you are wrong, just not making sense from what I've personally seen if everything after L4 required a larger ROM. I must be missing something.
Quoted from Zablon:Still not tracking what you are saying because I've never seen anything that says L4 and beyond require you to move the jumper. Just for L-9. I don't remember the size details, but as I said, I didn't move the jumper when going to L-5 and mine was long before L-3. I'm not saying you are wrong, just not making sense from what I've personally seen if everything after L4 required a larger ROM. I must be missing something.
ROMs above L-5 require the jumper change according to matts basement arcade.
Quoted from pinballinreno:ROMs above L-5 require the jumper change according to matts basement arcade.
EDIT: N/m misread what you wrote. That would make sense then.
Quoted from Zablon:So did you have to move the jumper? Was it already correct? etc etc.
As for problems with L-9, as I asked before, if you have an early game with the old style sound board (has an actual volume knob in the cab) from what I understand you can't go above L-5 or it won't work. Doesn't mean that is their problem (maybe didn't do the jumper move), but it is something to have them check.
Yes, I moved the jumper. My game does not have volume knob, just the standard 4 position buttons on the coin door. Seems to be good!
Quoted from canea:Yes, I moved the jumper. My game does not have volume knob, just the standard 4 position buttons on the coin door. Seems to be good!
Sorry, yeah I assumed that when you said it was working. I was meaning that you could have the other person check that was having issues.
Is there a complete write-up on the history of Funhouse game ROM's? And I mean the details of what feature was added to which revision?
I can see the description for what all has changed or been added to the newest version, but most of the write-ups I've found online don't spell out which revision each of those features was originally added to.
I'd like to add the newest revision which gives me the smart trap door feature, but doesn't require me to change the W1-W2 jumper. I think this is L5. Is that right?
Quoted from Zablon:Still not tracking what you are saying because I've never seen anything that says L4 and beyond require you to move the jumper. Just for L-9. I don't remember the size details, but as I said, I didn't move the jumper when going to L-5 and mine was long before L-3. I'm not saying you are wrong, just not making sense from what I've personally seen if everything after L4 required a larger ROM. I must be missing something.
The point I was making is the JUMPER is used when the software gamecode exceeded 1MEG in size and the chip being installed was larger than 1Meg. You will see early EPROMS from the factory labelled something like "27C010" when shipped from the factory. That "010" means the chip can store 1MEG of software. At some point in the development of the Funhouse code, the software exceeded the 1MEG size, and they started using physical chips that could store more. Those will be marked "27C020". I believe that was around L4. When you see "020", that essentially means the chip can store TWICE the amount of software as the older "010" parts. To allow the CPU to address this larger capacity chip, there needed to be a change to the addressing lines to allow the CPU to address the higher capacity chips. THAT is what the two jumpers do.
The confusing part is sometimes the older and smaller code, even though it would fit inside a smaller 010 chip, was sometimes burned into a larger 020 part because the supplier simply had the larger chips in stock. In these cases, the smaller code could actually be sitting in a machine stored in a larger part for convenience. Today its getting very hard to find these 30-year old 010 chips, so you may not have choices.
Quoted from AlexRogan84:Is there a complete write-up on the history of Funhouse game ROM's? And I mean the details of what feature was added to which revision?
I can see the description for what all has changed or been added to the newest version, but most of the write-ups I've found online don't spell out which revision each of those features was originally added to.
I'd like to add the newest revision which gives me the smart trap door feature, but doesn't require me to change the W1-W2 jumper. I think this is L5. Is that right?
Change the jumper over it only takes 2 mins.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Change the jumper over it only takes 2 mins.
My boards look like this:
So other than obtaining the L9 chip itself and doing this jumper mod on W1-W2, is there anything else I will need? Are those sound ROM's going to be fine as is?
IMG_4539 (resized).JPGIMG_4542 (resized).JPGQuoted from canea:Don't mean to derail Alex's questions, but I'm at about the same point and have the same ones!
Machine says I'm on L-3 CPU and L-3 sound. My game came with a couple spare ROMs, one of which looks like L-9 and one original music/speech one.
So same question: do I need to rejumper anything to boot L-9?
Do the CPU and sound roms need to match (for example, can I use L-9 with whatever sound thing I have going on now)?[quoted image][quoted image]
Not super important, but looking at your photos and the serial number stickers, aren't those from a Getaway? I believe 50004 is the Getaway and 50003 is Funhouse...
Quoted from AlexRogan84:My boards look like this:
So other than obtaining the L9 chip itself and doing this jumper mod on W1-W2, is there anything else I will need? Are those sound ROM's going to be fine as is?[quoted image][quoted image]
The SL2 sound rom that you have will work fine. If you update that to SL3 (which I did recently), you will get an enhanced light show because the sound rom sends additional triggers as the music plays. Not a big deal, but hey, why not?
Quoted from AlexRogan84:My boards look like this:
So other than obtaining the L9 chip itself and doing this jumper mod on W1-W2, is there anything else I will need? Are those sound ROM's going to be fine as is?[quoted image][quoted image]
Move the jumper.
Get the L-9 game ROM
Get the special U18 L-2s sound ROM or the modified L-3 sound ROM on the bigger capacity chip (they are the same code and work exactly the same).
It adds enhancements available in the L-9 game code.
You should be good to go.
https://mattsbasementarcade.com/product/funhouse-pinball-rom-upgrade-chip/
The files are commonly available to burn them yourself, if so inclined.
Decal / Stickers for Pop Bumpers.
I have a Funhouse that has stickers on each of the Pop bumper caps.
They Simply have the branded funhouse in white lettering.
Anyone know where these can be obtained. Or am I just getting picky,
This is the last item I am finding rather allusive.
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:Decal / Stickers for Pop Bumpers.
I have a Funhouse that has stickers on each of the Pop bumper caps.
They Simply have the branded funhouse in white lettering.
Anyone know where these can be obtained. Or am I just getting picky,
This is the last item I am finding rather allusive.
Repro bumper cap stickers have been elusive recently.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Repro bumper cap stickers have been elusive recently.
You can probably print your own these days with water slide decals under $15 on Amazon... available for inkjet and laser printers. Example:
https://www.amazon.com/Sunnyscopa-Inkjet-Waterslide-Decal-sheets/dp/B07FDN4YXM/ref=sr_1_6
Quoted from Markharris2000:You can probably print your own these days with water slide decals under $15 on Amazon... available for inkjet and laser printers. Example:
amazon.com link »
Not many prople can print white.
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:Decal / Stickers for Pop Bumpers.
I have a Funhouse that has stickers on each of the Pop bumper caps.
They Simply have the branded funhouse in white lettering.
Anyone know where these can be obtained. Or am I just getting picky,
This is the last item I am finding rather allusive.
Pinball heaven:
https://www.pinball.co.uk/game-specific-parts/funhouse/bumper-cap-decal-set-of-3/
$27 USD
Thanks I guess that is just waterslide decal. I guess for 27 bucks I gotta ask myself how important this detail is to me.
From a preservation standpoint I guess its important but 27 bucks for a sticker + shipping holy hell. Wonder if office
depot has the ability to print white decals.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Not many prople can print white.
I was thinking the lettering was blue or black but you are absolutely right. Printing white is an offset/silkscreen house job
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:Thanks I guess that is just waterslide decal. I guess for 27 bucks I gotta ask myself how important this detail is to me.
From a preservation standpoint I guess its important but 27 bucks for a sticker + shipping holy hell. Wonder if office
depot has the ability to print white decals.
Its not water slide.
Its optically clear vinyl on high performance adhesive that has been contour cut to fit the center of a bumper cap.
Any vinyl sign shop can make them.
Just give them a sample to scan.
Mylar or vinyl will work.
Vinyl will lay down better.
Mylar is better over hot incandescent bulbs.
Quotes i got were about $80 for the first sheet 8 x 10. $25 for subsequant sheets.
Guys make them up once in awhile, so can you.
For a small batch of a couple hundred, you get the price down to less than $2 each.
Then sell them for $5 each plus shipping.
Probaly wont get rich, but its a start.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Its not water slide.
Its optically clear vinyl on high performance adhesive that has been contour cut to fit the center of a bumper cap.
Any vinyl sign shop can make them.
Just give them a sample to scan.
Mylar or vinyl will work.
Vinyl will lay down better.
Mylar is better over hot incandescent bulbs.
Quotes i got were about $80 for the first sheet 8 x 10. $25 for subsequant sheets.
Guys make them up once in awhile, so can you.
For a small batch of a couple hundred, you get the price down to less than $2 each.
Then sell them for $5 each plus shipping.
Probaly wont get rich, but its a start.
I just did mine on my "over the top" restoration.
Properly done it looks like the artwork was silk screened, or painted on.
Old:
20210713_154830 (resized).jpg
New:
20210713_154535 (resized).jpg20210713_154542 (resized).jpg
It's like night and day on a freshly restored game:
I wonder if you can just make one of those custom rubber stamps, and use it with white acrylic paint for those caps.
-Paul
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:PinballReno you make a compelling case for going forward with pop bumper decals.
Calk rick at PPS and tell him you want to make a batch.
Every vendor will take some with his blessing if they are top notch.
Any sign shop can make them easily.
Use thin 1.5 to 2 mil material for the best results.
But it has to be optically clear.
Originals were made of thin mylar gor durability.
Quoted from Pablito350:I wonder if you can just make one of those custom rubber stamps, and use it with white acrylic paint for those caps.
-Paul
There was a guy who was silk screening caps awhile back.
They weren't cheap.
But they looked really good.
Hi everyone! Hoping someone might be able to aim me in the right direction. My good friend (80 years old) has had a Funhouse for about 12 years. He is the opposite of tech savy and really has never done anything to maintain the machine. I try to clean stuff and fix minor problems when I can for him but my simple skills only go so far.
Two issues... The sound seems to crackle a little and sometimes fizzle off entirely for a couple seconds at a time. It doesnt seem to correspond with anything specifically. I went in the machine and reseated all connections to the boards and speakers. It maaaaybe seemed to improve it a little bit, but probably not. Any advice on where to direct my attention? I can mostly figure my way around a machine, and have basic soldier skills, but am not too familiar with trouble shooting bad boards or rom chips or anything like that.
The second issue just happened yesterday. It seems easier, but i couldn't catch it at first glance. Sometimes when the ball would drain, it would just sit there in the bottom, not register as a drain, and not kick back to the beginning position. I assumed it would be the switch there at the bottom, but in switch test mode it seemed to register just fine. Is there anything else I should look at for that? Or maybe just try replacing the switch even though it works in test mode? I had an issue in my twilight zone that was similar. Switch appeared to work fine in test, but not perfect in game. Swapped it and it worked.
Just thought id gather some insight from you all first as I dont get too much time there at his house to tinker with it. Hi might just hire a tech to come by, but itd be great if i could save him some money.
Thanks!
I think your sound issue is a volume pot. Mine does this occasionally. It would be in the cabinet, I believe on the left side wall. Wiggle it around and it should crackle. Probably needs cleaned. Generally you can just twist it back and forth 4-5 times and then set it to the volume you want and it will be fine.
If you don't have one of those anywhere, I'm not sure what it would be. Maybe check connectors on the speakers if you haven't already. Alternatively, corroded joints, traces, and resistors can also cause this.
As for the ball trough -- FH has optos...but I'm not sure if there are any in the trough...I'd have to look at schematics to know for sure. It probably is just a trough switch that needs adjusted.
Quoted from MarklarD:Hi everyone! Hoping someone might be able to aim me in the right direction. My good friend (80 years old) has had a Funhouse for about 12 years. He is the opposite of tech savy and really has never done anything to maintain the machine. I try to clean stuff and fix minor problems when I can for him but my simple skills only go so far.
Two issues... The sound seems to crackle a little and sometimes fizzle off entirely for a couple seconds at a time. It doesnt seem to correspond with anything specifically. I went in the machine and reseated all connections to the boards and speakers. It maaaaybe seemed to improve it a little bit, but probably not. Any advice on where to direct my attention? I can mostly figure my way around a machine, and have basic soldier skills, but am not too familiar with trouble shooting bad boards or rom chips or anything like that.
The second issue just happened yesterday. It seems easier, but i couldn't catch it at first glance. Sometimes when the ball would drain, it would just sit there in the bottom, not register as a drain, and not kick back to the beginning position. I assumed it would be the switch there at the bottom, but in switch test mode it seemed to register just fine. Is there anything else I should look at for that? Or maybe just try replacing the switch even though it works in test mode? I had an issue in my twilight zone that was similar. Switch appeared to work fine in test, but not perfect in game. Swapped it and it worked.
Just thought id gather some insight from you all first as I dont get too much time there at his house to tinker with it. Hi might just hire a tech to come by, but itd be great if i could save him some money.
Thanks!
Please make sure they change the batteries.
Quoted from Zablon:I think your sound issue is a volume pot. Mine does this occasionally. It would be in the cabinet, I believe on the left side wall. Wiggle it around and it should crackle. Probably needs cleaned. Generally you can just twist it back and forth 4-5 times and then set it to the volume you want and it will be fine.
If you don't have one of those anywhere, I'm not sure what it would be. Maybe check connectors on the speakers if you haven't already. Alternatively, corroded joints, traces, and resistors can also cause this.
As for the ball trough -- FH has optos...but I'm not sure if there are any in the trough...I'd have to look at schematics to know for sure. It probably is just a trough switch that needs adjusted.
Thanks so much for the reply. Ill definitely look around for a pot. I have electrical contact cleaner spray I used on my guitar's pots, I think that should be fine to use.
I didnt have time yesterday to take apart the trough, but ill go ahead and do that next time im there and see if anything else jumps out at me. I didnt see any optos yesterday glancing under the table, but then again I was mainly checking out that one switch.
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:Please make sure they change the batteries.
Good call. I did this a few years back. If I remember correctly, the battery holder on the board seemed to not work, so i bought one and wired it off the board to rest in the backbox.
Quoted from Zablon:I think your sound issue is a volume pot. Mine does this occasionally. It would be in the cabinet, I believe on the left side wall. Wiggle it around and it should crackle. Probably needs cleaned. Generally you can just twist it back and forth 4-5 times and then set it to the volume you want and it will be fine.
If you don't have one of those anywhere, I'm not sure what it would be. Maybe check connectors on the speakers if you haven't already. Alternatively, corroded joints, traces, and resistors can also cause this.
As for the ball trough -- FH has optos...but I'm not sure if there are any in the trough...I'd have to look at schematics to know for sure. It probably is just a trough switch that needs adjusted.
Funhouse doesn't have a volume pot. It is a digital control. I had a problem with sound fizzling out and it was because of a loose wire in the backbox. There is a connector that I don't have any idea where it is supposed to connect to. Everything seems to work fine without it, but it would occasionally touch some component causing a fizzle (not good). Once I taped it up, no more problem. It seems to be the wire that goes to the speakers. I just looked again and I see nothing that this connector could plug into. If someone could check theirs and let me know, I'd appreciate it.
Quoted from brado426:Funhouse doesn't have a volume pot. It is a digital control. I had a problem with sound fizzling out and it was because of a loose wire in the backbox. There is a connector that I don't have any idea where it is supposed to connect to. Everything seems to work fine without it, but it would occasionally touch some component causing a fizzle (not good). Once I taped it up, no more problem. It seems to be the wire that goes to the speakers. I just looked again and I see nothing that this connector could plug into. If someone could check theirs and let me know, I'd appreciate it.
[quoted image]
There are 2 versions. The early versions have the old Sys-11 sound with a pot. Have you not been reading this thread? I believe the samples/protos and first 200-300 games have these.
Quoted from Zablon:There are 2 versions. The early versions have the old Sys-11 sound with a pot. Have you not been reading this thread? I believe the samples/protos and first 200-300 games have these.
I haven't read everything in this thread. I had no idea. Thanks for setting me straight.
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