FunHouse
Williams, 1990Quoted from pinballinreno:I think the second ones look like they would work:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/077-5030-00
That's kinda what I was thinking. The factory ones seemed to have the socket countersunk a bit in the wood and the ones from the first link are flush mount sockets.
Quoted from PinballPat:That's kinda what I was thinking. The factory ones seemed to have the socket countersunk a bit in the wood and the ones from the first link are flush mount sockets.
You could probably get away with all of that style, just get the #455 LED blinkers with the wedge base instead of the bayonet bases.
Unless you feel like stapling...
Hi--
I am not sure if this should be posted here or in a tech section of the forum. I purchased this Pedretti topper, then it occurred to me that I have LED OCD
So the topper is supposed to use J137 and J133.
As per the attached pic, the two red plugs for LEDOCD take those.
Can anyone recommend what to do so that the mod can be used?
IMG_20210324_101218 (resized).pngI think I just found the answer-
J133, J134 and J135 are all same column, and J137 and J138 are same row, so I can use any of those that are open for the mod plugs that are supposed to go to the J133 plug aand J137 plug, respectively. Is this correct, and is there an overdrawing power issue I am missing?
Quoted from sb33334:I think I just found the answer-
J133, J134 and J135 are all same column, and J137 and J138 are same row, so I can use any of those that are open for the mod plugs that are supposed to go to the J133 plug aand J137 plug, respectively. Is this correct, and is there an overdrawing power issue I am missing?
Funhouse Power Driver Board schematic Sheet 2, in Section 3-8, confirm those connectors are in fact in parrallel. If you draw another 15 LED's off that source, you'll be fine. That only adds 100-200mA, which is the power of 2 or 3 old 555/455 style oldschool bulbs.
New to the club (again). I bought a kind of basket case funhouse from a friend. Over payed, of course.
First big problem is the screen won’t come on at all. I checked all the fuses and reseated all connections. Which brings me to problem number two...
One of the big connectors (I can’t remember right now 12 pin? On the power driver board left side?) with all the yellow wires looping back on themselves ) was all burnt and crumbles in my hand when I tried to reseat it. I’m hoping that is also my first problem. Any chance?
Anyone have a good tutorial for rebuilding connectors that have the wires looping to multiple pins?
5933E189-D3CE-480B-B4BB-29D90A385555 (resized).jpeg91E7FE99-EE86-49BF-8CB0-8F12314D02B3 (resized).jpeg99E2996F-1F80-49D4-9DBE-D6C7E1FD6DA7 (resized).jpegQuoted from Zablon:Hey Guys,
I've been screwing around with this for days and I could really use to advice. It is tough to fix when you have no reference of how it is supposed to be. All I have is the manual and it seems like all the parts are there....
New to the club (again). I bought a kind of basket case funhouse from a friend. Over payed, of course.
First big problem is the screen won’t come on at all. I checked all the fuses and reseated all connections. Which brings me to problem number two...
One of the big connectors (I can’t remember right now 12 pin? On the power driver board left side?) with all the yellow wires looping back on themselves ) was all burnt and crumbles in my hand when I tried to reseat it. I’m hoping that is also my first problem. Any chance?
Anyone have a good tutorial for rebuilding connectors that have the wires looping to multiple pins?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
This guy explains how to replace those connectors.
It looks like your Rudy eyelids are not going to work. I'm guessing the piston that drives the eyelids has detached. You're going to need to take Rudy apart to fix that. I've done it a couple times.
Quoted from brado426:Hey Guys,
I've been screwing around with this for days and I could really use to advice. It is tough to fix when you have no reference of how it is supposed to be. All I have is the manual and it seems like all the parts are there....This guy explains how to replace those connectors.
It looks like your Rudy eyelids are not going to work. I'm guessing the piston that drives the eyelids has detached. You're going to need to take Rudy apart to fix that. I've done it a couple times.
Quoted from brado426:This guy explains how to replace those connectors.
It looks like your Rudy eyelids are not going to work. I'm guessing the piston that drives the eyelids has detached. You're going to need to take Rudy apart to fix that. I've done it a couple times.
Thanks for the link!
Yeah. The eyelids looked weird. I’ll work on that when i get the display working for sure.
Quoted from brado426:This guy explains how to replace those connectors.
It looks like your Rudy eyelids are not going to work. I'm guessing the piston that drives the eyelids has detached. You're going to need to take Rudy apart to fix that. I've done it a couple times.
If you do plan to take Rudy apart, take pictures from lots of angles up close first!!!!! Putting it back is mostly intuitive, but a few gotchas will arise. There is a main assembly and then the geared jaw armature. I found taking the C-clip off the jaw armature post and then disconnecting was easiest for me. Then Rudy's main assembly just unbolts from the bottom with 6 screws I think. Try to find the solenoid plunger arms found in the manual, pages 2-22/23. Item 5 & 7. There is also a nylon ring in the back of the eyelid solenoid that usually gets eaten up. Rudy won't work well without that ring being fixed.. I think they call it a shading ring. Marco has that. The springs probably need to be swapped too as they get weak and you'll know what else is needing to be adjusted by checking how well the eyelid coils are mounted. If the coils are loose, see if the bracket screws are just loose.
Quoted from Markharris2000:If you do plan to take Rudy apart, take pictures from lots of angles up close first!!!!! Putting it back is mostly intuitive, but a few gotchas will arise. There is a main assembly and then the geared jaw armature. I found taking the C-clip off the jaw armature post and then disconnecting was easiest for me. Then Rudy's main assembly just unbolts from the bottom with 6 screws I think. Try to find the solenoid plunger arms found in the manual, pages 2-22/23. Item 5 & 7. There is also a nylon ring in the back of the eyelid solenoid that usually gets eaten up. Rudy won't work well without that ring being fixed.. I think they call it a shading ring. Marco has that. The springs probably need to be swapped too as they get weak and you'll know what else is needing to be adjusted by checking how well the eyelid coils are mounted. If the coils are loose, see if the bracket screws are just loose.
Very good point here. Make sure all the parts go back in the right way. After I got my Funhouse, the piston cracked my eyelids plastic. After much investigation, I found it was because whoever put Rudy back together didn't put the white plastic shaft guide back in causing the piston to jiggle. Eventually, it did its last jiggle and destroyed my eyelids. I bought a replacement shaft guide and it has worked perfectly ever since.
Quoted from paynemic:New to the club (again). I bought a kind of basket case funhouse from a friend. Over payed, of course.
First big problem is the screen won’t come on at all. I checked all the fuses and reseated all connections. Which brings me to problem number two...
One of the big connectors (I can’t remember right now 12 pin? On the power driver board left side?) with all the yellow wires looping back on themselves ) was all burnt and crumbles in my hand when I tried to reseat it. I’m hoping that is also my first problem. Any chance?
Anyone have a good tutorial for rebuilding connectors that have the wires looping to multiple pins?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That connector is for your general illumination so it won’t be related to the display. You might be missing some playfield lighting though.
Quoted from brado426:Very good point here. Make sure all the parts go back in the right way. After I got my Funhouse, the piston cracked my eyelids plastic. After much investigation, I found it was because whoever put Rudy back together didn't put the white plastic shaft guide back in causing the piston to jiggle. Eventually, it did its last jiggle and destroyed my eyelids. I bought a replacement shaft guide and it has worked perfectly ever since.
Its called the centering flange, and it missing is the main thing that breaks eyelids.
Quoted from dsuperbee:Its called the centering flange, and it missing is the main thing that breaks eyelids.
^^^^I second this!^^^^^
Thanks for all the advice guys! I can’t wait to get Rudy up and working. Right now I can’t really even troubleshoot due to my completely blank display. I uploaded a video. I’m hoping something will catch someone’s eye and I can get a hint where to start. It clearly boots and plays. I think it’s alerting me that the time isn’t set. I think the batteries on the board were very old, but thankfully not leaking.
Thanks in advance.
Quoted from paynemic:Thanks for all the advice guys! I can’t wait to get Rudy up and working. Right now I can’t really even troubleshoot due to my completely blank display. I uploaded a video. I’m hoping something will catch someone’s eye and I can get a hint where to start. It clearly boots and plays. I think it’s alerting me that the time isn’t set. I think the batteries on the board were very old, but thankfully not leaking.
Thanks in advance.
Have you checked to make sure the scoreboard is getting any power at all? I actually had a similar problem but never did find out exactly why my scoreboard was dead. I pulled it out and set it face down on the playfield. After that, the scoreboard wouldn't come on. As I recall, I unplugged and plugged in the connectors and it started working again. Never did find out exactly why it wasn't powering on... maybe a sketchy connector. Since then, it has been rock solid so I haven't touched it. Your HV circuit is certainly suspect as that does commonly fail. Check to make sure you are getting the high voltage.
If worse comes to worse, you might want to consider investing in a replacement scoreboard for around $200. If you're ever in Southern California, feel free to stop by and bring your scoreboard and plug into mine to see if it works. 
Quoted from paynemic:Thanks for all the advice guys! I can’t wait to get Rudy up and working. Right now I can’t really even troubleshoot due to my completely blank display. I uploaded a video. I’m hoping something will catch someone’s eye and I can get a hint where to start. It clearly boots and plays. I think it’s alerting me that the time isn’t set. I think the batteries on the board were very old, but thankfully not leaking.
Thanks in advance.
If you get fed up with it, Im looking for a project....
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wanted-funhouse-26#post-6210939
Quoted from brado426:Have you checked to make sure the scoreboard is getting any power at all? I actually had a similar problem but never did find out exactly why my scoreboard was dead. I pulled it out and set it face down on the playfield. After that, the scoreboard wouldn't come on. As I recall, I unplugged and plugged in the connectors and it started working again. Never did find out exactly why it wasn't powering on... maybe a sketchy connector. Since then, it has been rock solid so I haven't touched it. Your HV circuit is certainly suspect as that does commonly fail. Check to make sure you are getting the high voltage.
If worse comes to worse, you might want to consider investing in a replacement scoreboard for around $200. If you're ever in Southern California, feel free to stop by and bring your scoreboard and plug into mine to see if it works.
Thanks for the advice. Where do I check the hv? I know I have 5v on one connector. The ribbon cable I’ve reconnected a few times to check. Seems ok. There’s one other connector (with two wires, maybe white?) that I get no reading. That’s suspect but I’m not sure what it does. Maybe that’s the hv?
Quoted from paynemic:Thanks for the advice. Where do I check the hv? I know I have 5v on one connector. The ribbon cable I’ve reconnected a few times to check. Seems ok. There’s one other connector (with two wires, maybe white?) that I get no reading. That’s suspect but I’m not sure what it does. Maybe that’s the hv?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-mm-dmd-issues-#post-4950362 reviewing this thread might help
Quoted from Markharris2000:https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-mm-dmd-issues-#post-4950362 reviewing this thread might help
Will do. Dumb question from me though, does it all pertain to funhouse? Is the display on funhouse a dmd technically or are they the same, basically?
Quoted from paynemic:Will do. Dumb question from me though, does it all pertain to funhouse? Is the display on funhouse a dmd technically or are they the same, basically?
My first link was providing some guidance on trouble shooting high voltage and displays. Funhouse was BEFORE DMD, so here is a specific link which might give you the specifics for high voltage and displays in Funhouse:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-display-your-thoughts
Quoted from Markharris2000:My first link was providing some guidance on trouble shooting high voltage and displays. Funhouse was BEFORE DMD, so here is a specific link which might give you the specifics for high voltage and displays in Funhouse:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-display-your-thoughts
Ok. Great reading. Thanks! I’m gonna get an xpin. But hopefully I can forgive it our work the original display
Quoted from paynemic:Ok. Great reading. Thanks! I’m gonna get an xpin. But hopefully I can forgive it our work the original display
I got the pin-led for mine.
I looks perfect.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I got the pin-led for mine.
I looks perfect.
I hear the PinLed displays look amazing and look just like the original in color. Never saw it in real life, but good to hear about someone that installed and is happy.
Quoted from Markharris2000:I hear the PinLed displays look amazing and look just like the original in color. Never saw it in real life, but good to hear about someone that installed and is happy.
Its true, they are perfect and get you off the high voltage that ruins your game.
My original display works perfectly and seems brand new. But as I do more restores, Im looking at long term durability of LED's, without the heat build up and associated problems.
I couldnt be happier.
I searched the thread a bit, but can anyone point me to a video tutorial for disassembling and repairing Rudy?
Nvm. Found it. Google
Quoted from paynemic:I searched the thread a bit, but can anyone point me to a video tutorial for disassembling and repairing Rudy?
Nvm. Found it. Google
The Rudy guides on pinballsupernova.com & pinballhelp.com were pretty good. They help you see how it s=works, and then some repair pointers. Is that the ones you found?
Quoted from Markharris2000:The Rudy guides on pinballsupernova.com & pinballhelp.com were pretty good. They help you see how it s=works, and then some repair pointers. Is that the ones you found?
Yes. Thanks a lot though. Can’t wait to tear into him! Do you think his eyelid problem will be easy to discover out of the machine? I can’t run through switch tests and stuff yet with my display out. And xpin is taking a while to ship.
Quoted from paynemic:Yes. Thanks a lot though. Can’t wait to tear into him! Do you think his eyelid problem will be easy to discover out of the machine? I can’t run through switch tests and stuff yet with my display out. And xpin is taking a while to ship.
Yes. If you watched those videos, it should be pretty obvious where the problem(s) is once you have it on the bench. I suspect you have one or both of the plunger armatures damaged. They are tough to find, but I would try Marco first.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Its true, they are perfect and get you off the high voltage that ruins your game.
My original display works perfectly and seems brand new. But as I do more restores, Im looking at long term durability of LED's, without the heat build up and associated problems.
I couldnt be happier.
Probably silly question--- how and what does the high voltage do to ruin your game? Is it just heat generally, a specific kind of damage to a part? I am very partial to the plasma because I like the look so I am wondering what that costs me in terms of wear.
Quoted from sb33334:Probably silly question--- how and what does the high voltage do to ruin your game? Is it just heat generally, a specific kind of damage to a part? I am very partial to the plasma because I like the look so I am wondering what that costs me in terms of wear.
The Pin-LED actually looks better and cleaner. I have a brand new display for my game and elected to put in the LED display in its place.
High voltage induces unnecessary stress on the entire system that causes unnecessary wear and tear.
Heat destroys everything in its path from plastics to paint.
Now that we have cool running lower voltage LED systems, Its easy to modernize and increase the life expectancy of games many fold.
Quoted from pinballinreno:The Pin-LED actually looks better and cleaner. I have a brand new display for my game and elected to put in the LED display in its place.
High voltage induces unnecessary stress on the entire system that causes unnecessary wear and tear.
Heat destroys everything in its path from plastics to paint.
Now that we have cool running lower voltage LED systems, Its easy to modernize and increase the life expectancy of games many fold.
I personally like the original look better. I don't like seeing all the unlit segments. That being said, I have a pinled in mine too. I don't dislike it enough to hear up the backbox. I don't notice it so much anymore, but when I do, I still miss the clean look of the original.
I like the original look better too. I was very disappointed that mine gassed out as I've been keeping it original. But...life goes on. I got an Xpin and I like it...segments are not overly in your face. I have not put the filter on.
I still run incandescent in most of my older games. I just prefer the asthetics. Heat from those is not really a concern in home ownership - unless you are keeping your machines on all the time.
Quoted from yzfguy:I personally like the original look better. I don't like seeing all the unlit segments. That being said, I have a pinled in mine too. I don't dislike it enough to hear up the backbox. I don't notice it so much anymore, but when I do, I still miss the clean look of the original.
Same. Mine game came with led displays and I quickly got used to them. Like the benefits of leds but like keeping FH as stock looking as possible. Love it just how it is.
Heat from incandescent bulbs isn't a problem in home use, but together they add up to quite a bit of current, and if the crummy IDCs* they used decide they are corroded enough to act up, the connection becomes resistive, which makes it need to dissipate heat, which makes it more resistive in a vicious cycle until you wind up with melting connectors and overheated board headers. Happened to me when I left Rudy on overnight by accident.
I still left my GI incandescent, though, once I put in a trifurcon connector to fix it it should be bulletproof. If you ever notice your GI seems dimmer than it used to be, FFS check out those IDCs! You may save some board work JIT!
*Insulation Displacement Connectors. I refuse to call them IDC connectors.
Quoted from Markharris2000:Yes. If you watched those videos, it should be pretty obvious where the problem(s) is once you have it on the bench. I suspect you have one or both of the plunger armatures damaged. They are tough to find, but I would try Marco first.
Ok! Got Rudy working. The xpin screen did the trick too.
So now I’m just missing the lampshade! Anyone have a spare? Or if anyone upgraded, do you have the original I can buy? I haven’t been able to find one anywhere. Also, the place it mounts on the plastic ramp broke off. Any ideas on an alternative mounting? And is it just GI or controlled?
Quoted from paynemic:Ok! Got Rudy working. The xpin screen did the trick too.
So now I’m just missing the lampshade! Anyone have a spare? Or if anyone upgraded, do you have the original I can buy? I haven’t been able to find one anywhere. Also, the place it mounts on the plastic ramp broke off. Any ideas on an alternative mounting? And is it just GI or controlled?
Pretty sure Cliffy has one you can get. Drop him a note: [email protected]
Quoted from luckycreature:Got the pinball pin.stencils. put them all on but the pipes. Those didn't really fit for my personal preference but the rest are great accents to the game
[quoted image][quoted image]
I like the admit one ticket!
Quoted from luckycreature:Got the pinball pimp decals put them all on but the pipes. Those didn't really fit for my personal preference but the rest are great accents to the game
[quoted image][quoted image]
I just did the exact same thing, the pipes stickers were too intrusive for my taste when I dry fit them but I love all the others. Well done, Pinball pimp!
Quoted from bbriese:I just did the exact same thing, the pipes stickers were too intrusive for my taste when I dry fit them but I love all the others. Well done, Pinball pimp!
I appreciate anyone's creativity, but those pipes look too much like something out of mario bros. to me.
Quoted from luckycreature:Got the pinball pimp decals put them all on but the pipes. Those didn't really fit for my personal preference but the rest are great accents to the game
[quoted image][quoted image]
I didn't see these on the pinball pimp site. 
Also ... Your bumper caps aren't in the correct locations.
Quoted from mollyspub:I didn't see these on the pinball pimp site.
Also ... Your bumper caps aren't in the correct locations.
There on his ebay page.
Quoted from mollyspub:I didn't see these on the pinball pimp site.
Also ... Your bumper caps aren't in the correct locations.
Funhouse Owners, I'm looking for the white plastic spacers that go on the steps ramp supporting the three hands plastics? I've been looking everywhere, Does anyone know where to get these OR how long they measure I could source some if I knew how long they are supposed to be? Thanks anyone
Quoted from flipper_nutz:Funhouse Owners, I'm looking for the white plastic spacers that go on the steps ramp supporting the three hands plastics? I've been looking everywhere, Does anyone know where to get these OR how long they measure I could source some if I knew how long they are supposed to be? Thanks anyone
6-32 x 1/4" f-f white nylon hex spacer I believe. looks like 7/8" long Ill have to check the length.
They are available at most hardware stores (Ace, home depot, lowes etc.) in assorted lengths. Then trim to fit.
20210412_171804 (resized).jpgHad issues with the right shooter not plunging the ball cosistantly all the way around and found following solution for my Rudy:
I was wasting hours in aligning/changing things as only 2/3 of the plunges made it all the way around-1/3 got stuck with some rattling noise and fell back to the bumpers.
realigning the metal guide inwards (towards playfield) gives me a 100% plunge (detail A in pic)
before it seems the ball was sometimes crashing into the right ramp entrance (detail B)
was hard to track down as I suspected the gate flap being the culprit as by holding it upwards I always had a 100% success rate
Rudy is happy now and rewarded me with a new GC score of 100M 
posted the same info there: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-shooter-rod-alignment-post-restore#post-6224919
20210412_151310 (resized).jpgQuoted from paynemic:Yes. Thanks a lot though. Can’t wait to tear into him! Do you think his eyelid problem will be easy to discover out of the machine? I can’t run through switch tests and stuff yet with my display out. And xpin is taking a while to ship.
You must remove Rudy from the machine to work on that. It isn't too bad... the first time may be a bit confusing, but it is pretty self-explanatory. There's a shaft that is supposed to connect to another shaft via a pin. My guess is that pin/shaft got
Quoted from harig:Had issues with the right shooter not plunging the ball cosistantly all the way around and found following solution for my Rudy:
I was wasting hours in aligning/changing things as only 2/3 of the plunges made it all the way around-1/3 got stuck with some rattling noise and fell back to the bumpers.
realigning the metal guide inwards (towards playfield) gives me a 100% plunge (detail A in pic)
before it seems the ball was sometimes crashing into the right ramp entrance (detail B)
was hard to track down as I suspected the gate flap being the culprit as by holding it upwards I always had a 100% success rate
Rudy is happy now and rewarded me with a new GC score of 100M
posted the same info there: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-shooter-rod-alignment-post-restore#post-6224919
[quoted image]
Thank you for this post. My Funhouse does the EXACT same thing!! I will look at that metal guide on mine and see if it is the same issue.
Brad O.
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