I just updated my Funhouse from ROM rev L-5 to L-9. I also patched the L-9 rom to eliminate LED ghosting and that works great... I'm so pleased!!!

The only problem I'm noticing is that the kicker that puts the ball in play (so you can shoot the ball) is weak now. If I run the test mode on it, it is strong and works perfectly every time. Now, it barely kicks hard enough to push the ball into the shooting lane. Half the time, the ball falls back in and the kicker has to fire again to get the ball out. While the game still works fine, it seems like there is a problem somewhere. I lubed up the kicker shaft a bit, but it didn't make any difference. it seems like something in the code fires the solenoid at half power... then if that doesn't work, it fires at full power, because if the ball doesn't make it and it kicks again, it seems to kick harder.

Is there any way to disable this? Has anyone else experienced it with the L-9 ROM? Suggestions?

Thanks,

Brad

Havent heard of the code affecting that. I used an earlier code L-3, the nonghosting L-9, and the home H-9 and the kicker strength was the same.
Check your solenoid sleeve and spring for issues.

Hmmm... this is really weird. Your comment made me think I had some alternate version of the ROM. I got this L-9 image from MAME. So I went out and got the version from here: https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=966 and did a checksum comparison. The roms are identical.

So I put the L-9 ROM in without the ghosting fix.... same exact behavior... about half the strength of that kicker. Then I put the L-5 rom back in and kicker was at full strength every time.

Did I mention that with the L-9 ROM installed, the solenoid test fires that kicker at full strength every time? In is only an issue during game. Strength does increase if it can't kick the ball out all the way and it always kicks it out the second time.

This has to be caused by software in L-9. Maybe there is something mechanically wrong with my kicker to make it harder than other machines, so half the strength only exhibits problems for me? Very curious about this one.

First off....clean that lube off and replace the coil sleeve. No lube on plungers....ever.

Second, make sure the parts arent worn or bent.

I cleaned up the shaft... it didn't make any difference anyway. The parts seem fine... not bent or worn. I did lubricate the hinge and it seems pretty reliable now. I'll keep watching it... Like I said, I think the L-9 roms decreased the power of that kicker and my kicker was only working properly because of the extra power it had before. It would be nice if the Solenoid test fired at the same velocity as it fires in-game.

Weird, before I put in L9 I always thought it kicked a new ball out TOO hard, the ball would sometimes even bounce back down into the trough, and was happy to see it kick out more gently with L9, and it's always been reliable since.

I finally updated my PA-1 to L-5 a few weeks ago and while the few additions are nice (I've noticed a few new sayings), I was really disappointed in the grand champion lightshow! What once was an awesome display is now nothing more than just the clock going in and out. I assume later versions restored this to it's former glory. So now I'm torn. I never had any issues with PA-1 really, but knew I was missing a few items. I can't go higher than L-5 due to the old style sound.

bump............still looking

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So if you have a Funhouse with the Yellow cabinet art, Yellow Cabinet protectors or Dark Blue?

Are you covering existing damage? If so, I like red protectors on FH. If not, I wouldn't put them on at all or you may cause damage.

How do they cause damage?

They can dig in and when you are nudging cause damage to the artwork. That's why ya don't see them so much anymore, most use the stern metal ones that keep space between the game and the leg. I used to have pincab protectors on all my old williams games, but most of them were chewed up or peeling around the legs, so they hid the damage.

Oh damn, good to know

Is this the correct ones for Williams?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-0599-00

just listed 2 groups of used funhouse plastics in the marketplace

does anyone know where to purchase just this one plastic?

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Action Pinball has it in stock.

MMGB thanks for the info

I added the crank liner support to my current resto.

Its made the eyes snappier and better centered, and keeps the crank from wearing.

I know Its for roadshow, but its the same crank and spring wire.
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I also made sure i added the trap door dupport as recommended in the service bulletin.

My game didnt have it, but there was a dimple for it on the replacement playfield.

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If the eyes aren't returning to center, you don't need to replace the crank. On both sides of the head frame, where the torsion bar for the eyes are mounted are 2 eyelets. These are what provides the tension against the torsion bar, and wear pretty quickly. Replace these and the eyes will return to center easily. The eyelets can be found at most any decent hobby store.

I happen to have some Rudy parts that I have collected over the years.
My rudy was a little worn from being routed for years, as well as a ton of operator hacks.
My spare Rudy could also be freshened up a bit.

I replaced the jaw motor,jaw motor link,nyliners, eyelets, double post, coils, plungers, centering ring, coil stop, eyelids,eye links, eyes, jaw, torsion bar, springs, jaw motor bracket and eye crank with rivets.

I also replaced the upkicker bracket with the one from mantis, as well as the jaw springs, coil stop and coil.

Modfather is doing the repaint on the faces as an OEM style.

The main head bracket is in good shape and the coil studs are like new. I replaced the fish paper on it.

I have a complete spare Rudy head and a spare back, it will also be restored with new parts.

Rick has hired Larry at starship fantasy. He is remaking funhouse faces and backs later on for everyone. Possibly this year.
Right now hes working on roadshow faces and backs.

I also replaced the connectors/pins with OEM original ones and color correct wire.

The 5 circuit molex is tough to get as its NLA from molex, but I found them.

After everything was new, I felt that the eye action wasnt snappy enough, the eyes moved slightly with vibration. It works fine, just that with the torsion spring it could be a bit snappier.

So, since I had a crank liner left over from roadshow, I put it in.

Way snappier action, as it presses a little more on the torsion bar more.

Awesome! Sounds like you left nothing untouched. Rudy must be very happy !

Im doing a super high end restore.

Basically all new parts in the game including cabinet, CPR backglass and playfield.

I did a similar treatment to my DW.

I find that super high end restores play better.

And with a little care, adjustments and tweaks, better that NIB.

Please post some pics! Better yet...start a thread !

lol, maybe...

Just wondering about the crank liners orientation: according to the RS manual (the two little springy wings are pointing towards the eyeballs) you installed the other way around-what is correct?
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I will try to build the crank liner spring on my own as none of the shops I usually order has it in stock:
Can someone measure the thickness of the spring steel?
Maybe a sharper pic of the installed spring is available (could not find one)

thx!

The crank liner is basically to keep from wearing down the nylon crank.

As the crank wears the eyes loose their ability to snap back the center.

It was added in Road Show as a durability solution.

Its totally not needed with a new crank, and for home use the crank wont wear much at all.

I just happened to have one and mounted it reversed to increase the springiness.

Im on the fence about this and am going to reverse it back to normal.

Im concerned that the spring bar will wear a notch in the spring steel and cause binding later on as it stands now.

This is also an option. The plastic crank is not durable, hopefully this is a long-life version:
https://pinball-parts.shop/kategoriesuche/spielfeldteile/plastics/30783/crank-roadshow-funhouse

Looks like a nice option !

That’s pretty impressive.

I didnt even know that existed!

It looks perfect.

My eyeball clip holes finally wore thru the other day. I remedied it by taking paper towel and superglue and making fake plastic over the parts that were missing. Works well so far, we'll see if it lasts.

Maybe make up something like what pinbits was selling:

https://pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=401

they made some stick on plastic pieces.

These are very much still a work in progress. I designed eyes with a small bit of changes from the originals and made injection molds. I have a small run injection machine and made a few. The coloring isn’t how I liked, so I painted them white. I designed some templates for the blue and black paint and 3D printed those. This is the first attempt to use them, but obviously needs some tweaking. These have a splatter overspray because they didn’t sit tight against the eyes. Next version will hopefully be a little better.

Haven’t done any fit checks or torture testing yet but I’m going to pull my Funhouse off route soon and start doing those things soon.

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In a world where none exist those look pretty good!

PPS is supposed to be selling these soon

Awesome work! keep us posted.

Soon. But aways away.

Rudy faces are also coming!

if you reverse the crank liner could you please be so kind and take some measurements for me?
Thickness of the spring steel would be of special interest.
maybe some pics once installed would help me building that spring

thx!

crazy (like Rudy says)...one just has an injection molding machine at home, builds a mold and produces nla pinpall parts - what a great community

The spring steel is the same as the ramp flap steel.

One could easily cut a small strip with scissors and press a piece unto the slot to increase its durability.

If it fits snug, it wont fall out.

Post #2522 has it shown installed in the reversed position. It probably doesnt matter which way it goes in as I applied a couple drops of super lube silicone oil on it and all metal rubbing parts.

Sil-lube is ok because it will dry out and not attract black dust bit still function for years.

I put a drip on spinners and sling hinges etc.

As well as super lube silicone grease on the gears.

Its not a critical thickness, there is plenty of slop in the mech as the torsion bar doesnt fit tight in the rivets.

Put rivets in the worn out holes if you can.

Craft stores have an assortment of tiny brass rivets. Anything that fits over the wire will work fine.

If they are too long I just tape them to a drill bit and dremel them shorter.

They are easily set by lightly tapping the cut side with a center punch to widen them a bit and gently tapping flat with a small hammer.

The road show eyes all have rivets in the holes.
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WTB want to buy : open trap door bracket Funhouse was lost during dismount parts from playfield , item can be shipped to an USA address.PM me !!! I may buy in a package to add some more value for the seller good or new slingshot plastics , the plastic near the left bumper ,good or new trapdoor hinge ,clock overlay . PM me !!!

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pinballinreno I've seen you post elsewhere about the light board sockets. I'm trying to decide what to do about mine since all of the old ones fell apart when taking them off and the factory style 24-8818 are non-existent right now. The two options I've seen are below. It looks like one probably protrudes further into the board than the other but I'm not sure which would be better for this application.

https://www.pinballlife.com/miniature-wedge-base-2-lead-socket-with-front-mounting-bracket.html

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/077-5030-00

Anyone have one of the pingraffix custom aprons from a few years back they'd like to sell?

I think the second ones look like they would work:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/077-5030-00