Springs: it can’t hurt as you don’t know what may be correct in there now. I generally don’t replace coil stops unless they’re worn out/broken or ugly. The exception is the flippers. Rebuild completely with new stops.

For the black micro switches, get a count and make sure you get new diodes if you don’t have them already. I usually get my microswitches bare from PL. they do sell the with the diodes installed too if you fancy. And yes they’re generally all the same however the part number has changed. DA3 then and now DB5. They’re slightly different specs from what I’ve read but are the replacement.

White switches, you will want to get the correct part number with the metal tab necessary. Others have taken them apart to transfer although I haven’t done that yet.

The DB5 has become the new standard. In my opinion its slightly more robust with a slightly stronger spring.

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-sub-microswitch-5647-12693.html

https://www.pinballlife.com/microswitch-with-diode.html

Still, in hard to reach places and on ramps, i would like to see a lot more MRS swtches used.

The one on my Diner cup is amazing.

I hope there are a lot more applications developed.

Full playfield mylar has been around for decades and was an option if you ordered from williams.

The new polycarbonate films look great but are softer than the clearcoat.

Modern clearcoat is much more durable and easier to repair.

All modern games are clearcoated.

The mylar over wear areas is important to keep the clearcoat from looking cloudy as dirt grinds into it.

You always apply mylar between the pop bumpers and wherever the ball drops from a ramp onto the playfield.

The rest of the playfiled can be well protected by waxing with pure carnauba every 500 plays or less and changing the balls out at the same time.

For a home env, this is overkill. Mylar over the heavy wear areas (pops, drop from the steps ramp, drop from the main ramp into the lane, etc). You can get the mylar from marco/pbl but my personal pref is to use this stuff (as it comes up easy): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00134DIII

Also, don't forget the Cliffy's! http://www.passionforpinball.com/FH-Protectors.htm

I like this stuff:

ebay.com link: itm

If you have a tap plastics near you, they have mylar in a variety of thicknesses that you can buy by the foot. Same stuff the pinball suppliers sell, and much, much cheaper.

Optically clear with 3m adhesive in 3 mil thickness works best.

Marco has it for a fair price in small quantities, but i agree you can get it cheaper.

Use rapid-tac application fluid for easy alignment and perfect results.

Firmly squeegee down with a felt brayer. Kill any troublesome bubbles with a brand new exacto knife #7 (regular) blade. Just a tiny prick will do.

Wait 24 hrs, burnish down with a hair dryer and a felt squeegee.

Hey folks speaking of ball drop areas and Mylar, any recommendations for fixing paint damage to these spots before adding Mylar?

Touch up paint, maybe make a decal.

It doesnt go to the back box speaker from
when i traced the line, it went into the wiring loom down into the cabinet.

There’s a new MOD out guys!!!

FEF49BEF-09D8-480B-BE00-9BD0289329FA (resized).jpeg

and like most he's not wearing it right! Ohhh Ruudyy ba ba baaaaaa

Thanks! I should have a chance to play around with this on my machine this weekend and I'll let you know.

Here:
https://pu-parts.com/03-8247-double-star-post-1-1-16_5
https://pu-parts.com/03-8319-single-star-post-1-1-16_9

The main clock area does not need mylar.

Its best if you have a clearcoated playfield though.

Not all games were diamond plate coated.

Essentially, a clear coated pinball playfield already has an automotive clearcoat. it is the same materials used. Adding more would be overkill, and adhesion to existing topcoat may be an issue.

Pinball manufacturers started clearcoating playfields in the early 1990's (where before they used a less durable lacquer).

If you keep your game clean, wax it occasionally, and play in home environment, you should be good.

I would put the money elsewhere, maybe in a new cabinet or artwork.

Waxing before applying mylar lets you remove it easier if you replace it.

I don't do this though. The edges can roll up.

I clean it off with naptha and use rapid-tac application fluid for easy positioning and bubble removal.

Use a felt squeegee tool. The hard edge works well for bubbles, the soft edge for large areas including cabinet decals.

Let it dry for a day remove any bubbles and burnish the mylar down with a hair dryer.

Wax over the top.

I use blitz 100 grand or P21S silver, nothing else compares.

Pure carauba leaves a rock hard coating that is superior to synthetic, on par with ceramic.

You want to use a renewable surface to clean off ground in grime. Ceramic doesn't allow this.

Pure carnauba is perfect for pinball. Naptha cleans it off easily and its easy to re-coat.

Wax is applied in thin coats.
Imagine greasy fingerprints on glass.

One good coat is enough, you cant build coats. Each application removes the old wax.

I switched my translite for CPR's mirrored backglass. It is beautiful.

The seller had put Comet 1smd cool white bulbs throughout. I decided to switch the backbox insert to Comet's 2smd sunlight bulbs and included a mix of slow and fast blinkers in the 455 sockets. I think it looks waaaaaaay better.

Backglass lights off (sorry for the window reflection)
20200802_152120 (resized).jpg

Backglass with 1smd cool white
20200802_152209 (resized).jpg

Backglass with 2smd sunlight
20200802_153203 (resized).jpg

Video of backglass with blinkers:

Backglass looks sweet! C'mon... Someone sell me a nice funhouse so I can add endless mods!!

Im doing the exact same thing.

Did you use the comet 455 blinkers?

Did you install GIOCD? I thought it killed the blinkers.

Im installing GIOCD and LEDOCD.
I really want the dimming effects.

Yes. I used both Comet fast and slow blinkers.

I have not gone as far as to install GIOCD or LEDOCD, so I have no experience with them.

I have both ocd boards and blinker leds in backbox. No issues. Only bulbs to avoid with ocd boards is no ghosting as far as I know.

Mirrored backglass does look great. Love to see one in person.

I also have both boards (just converted to LEDS last month) and no issue with the blinkers (comet versions).

Hi guys! I restored this machine back in 2014 and I’m getting ready to strip the playfield and re-clean it but was wondering if anyone ever made the catch for the hidden hallway. Mine is just a tad too rounded so the ball sometimes forces it’s way through. Also if anyone wants a restoration thread to watch here’s mine. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-full-restoration-by-a-13-year-old

anybody know where to find this part or does someone have one in their spare parts.......the lift pin on mine is quite worn part #A14160

a141601 (resized).jpg

It's NLA. I recently repaired mine. Took it to a local hobby shop and they have a selection of hollow tubing. Found a size that fit very snugly, and sleeved it. Cost was about 3 bucks.

thanks for the suggestion.........may have to go that route

Thanks !

This is really great to know.

Perfect! Thats what i wanted to hear.

You mean this?
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-A-14151

Available elsewhere but costs vary.

That is the one! I couldn't find those anywhere 6+ years ago. Glad someone made them haha

Soooo happy to be back!IMG_20200805_025109067 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200805_025053427 (resized).jpg

Didn't want to clog up this thread, anyone have gremlin advice? https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-switch-question#post-5782766

That is f’n awesome. Nice work.

IMG_20200806_000127858 (resized).jpg
Wish I could say it was my work! It was done by Weir Pinball a few years ago. I love it. It came with this new in box topper. Its kinda growing on me. Can't find it online, I was assuming laseriffic?

I have the same line up of FT, FH, and TZ in that same order. Early 90's games are the best! Not sure about the painted Rudy but looks like a nice FH. Congrats!

Thanks. That's what made it awesome... I saw that Rudy on here a few years ago and LOVED him! Totally a polar thing, and I get the purist aspect but it is just so creepy watching his bloodshot eyes

If you want to make Rudy even creepier regardless of how he's painted, check out High Voltages’ Rudy Mad Eyes mod here:

http://ccpinball.com/shop.html?v=1125c

As noted there, the video doesn't do it justice - the eyes go VERY red when triggered.

I had to overcome my long-standing hesitancy to take Rudy partially apart, but the instructions made it very straightforward. Be sure you read through them several times before starting so you have the overall picture of how it's going to go. And while it won't take you that long, be sure you have a couple of hours available when you start so you can finish it in one session and not have to come back to it part way through later.

My factory-Rudy is much more intimidating now, so I can only imagine how nasty he'll look with any custom paint jobs.

Just when you think you've seen every mod!

Here is a short vid of a quick easy mod I did:

Boy that's super odd! Funhouse on the TV show doom patrol.

20200806_215818 (resized).jpg

I haven't played my Funhouse for a while now, so excuse my ignorance, what's the mod?

Watch the three star posts just above the white pop bumper.

ahh!! Very cool

Hey everyone! If all goes to plan, I will be doubling my pinball collection tomorrow and picking up a Funhouse! My other pin is a Sopranos, but Funhouse has always been my first love. I have a sneaking suspicion that I will be posting a lot of questions soon in this thread! I'm not very handy or known to fix things around the house, so buying a used, older machine has got me a bit nervous! But as the kids say nowadays, YOLO!

Alot of the questions can be answered here. For some of the little hands-on stuff, you'll want to find and become friendly with some local Pinsiders to lend a hand if needed. You'll probably want to ask around to find a local 'pinball repair guy' that can come over for the bigger items at a fee. You'll find the most time consuming part will be finding replacement parts. MOST parts that wear out are available with enough looking from one of the dozen main sources, but a handful are not (like rudy's eyeballs or his face) and that is where the adventure begins.