Did any of the plastic pieces that mate to the plungers break? I had that happen recently. Superglued it back together while I track down the part I need and it’s holding for now.

Rebuilding Rudy

http://www.sandsmuseum.com/coinop/sample/funhouse/index.html

Could someone please verify if their Funhouse plumb bob mechanism has a diode connected to the bottom wire? i have 2 funhouse machines, and don't see it on either.

Thanks!

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Looks like mine doesn’t have one. It tilts without issue.

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This is not only for Riverboat pinball??

a Pinsider asked if I could create a custom plunger plate for FunHouse - so here are a left and right Cabinet styled artwork versions of Rudy.

https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?type=product&q=swinksfunhouse
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I am replacing a
Missing lampshade But haven’t seen it on before
When is it supposed to be on?
Thanks

Fairly sure the Lampshade light near Rudy's left eye is connected to the GI.
So always on if game is on yeah ?

Thanks. I wasn’t sure since it has a separate connector.

The light is on the same circuit as one section of the back glass lights. The other two Playfield GI circuits are daisy chained as you would expect.

Thanks for the help!
Now Rudy won’t have to be afraid of the dark

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Back in the club!
My first one and now this one. Not sure where Ill take it this time. Good to be back.

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Nice! Welcome to the club! Make sure the spring on the steps plunger side is the “silver” type spring strength per the factory parts manual. I just realized this was why i could never get up and around to the optos on the left ramp when you overshoot the skill shot.

Anyone have pics of FH with warm white or sunlight leds? I usually like sunlight but debating keeping the full retro look of warm white.

Mine is fitted with Comet warm-white retroSMD with the frosted covers. Standard 2SMD's and even 1SMD's are too bright for direct line of sight like under sling plastics and lane guides.

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Never tried the retro SMD bulbs. Might have to give those a try. I typically do 1smd for inserts and 2smd for GI but definitely don't want FH to be that bright. Your game looks awesome btw.

LED's ALWAYS photograph brighter than in real life. And if you;re going to LED a funhouse it's almost mandatory to install an LEDOCD and GIOCD boards.
If you don't you lose midnight multi ball dimming and the LED's on/off are harsh.

I wondering if it's worth getting the GIOCD board for 7 seconds of lights dimming...

Is there any other point in the game that would make it worth the expense?

-Paul

1000% worth it. I didn't have it in mine for a long time, despite everyone telling me I needed it. There are a ton of lighting effects I forgot about. Huge difference. I felt stupid for not buying it earlier.

Thank you. Having a bit of extra isolation time this spring meant I couldn't bring myself to go half-way on the restoration. This is Funhouse for God's sake...and it deserves respect.

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Agreed. I debated getting the boards for a while. Once I saw them in action there was no turning back. Most of the lighting effects are subtle but it all adds up to a much better visual experience. They eliminate any ghosting and make all lamps work exactly as designed. Definitely getting the boards for FH.

Just added Rudy to the lineup today.

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I want back in..... I have missed Rudy for three years since I sold FH. I should have kept it. Anyone know of a nice example for sale near NJ?

Anyone use the starship main ramp? I had to remove the metal post thing that is on the left side to get it to remotely fit. Getting all the holes to line up is a challenge. I need to pull pretty hard on the right side but think it will work. Just afraid it will be a lot of stress on ramp. The top plastic cover holes are way off so keeping old one even though a bit yellowed. Should these just drop in?

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Maybe change the holes into slots to relieve the stress.

I made my own top plastic out of lexan. Had to get rid of the yellow one!

This doesn't sound right to me . I bought one of these ( years ago ) and didn't have these issues. Did you contact Larry?

I'm in the middle of a full shop with most of the pf parts removed. Maybe it will fit better once I start assembling the pf. If not I will contact Larry.

Thicker, more robust ramps usually mean a hot date with a dremel.

LOL, that's a funny way to put it. I have put new full sets of repro ramps on about a dozen games including funhouse, whitewater and creech and never had to modify a ramp to fit.

Has anyone had any luck finding eyeballs for Rudy? I’m having a heck of a time!!

there is a single eyeball for sale on ebay right now

ebay.com link: NOS Funhouse Pinball Machine RUDY Eye Ball

Id buy it now.

The last set of 2 with one scratched up terribly went for $80

Let's see....I've had to modify FH, Whirlwind, WH2O, Earthshaker, DW. Pretty much every one I've used them on.

Dayummm

Happy Fourth everyone!

Just picked up a working Funhouse last night and wound up needing to take the head off to fit inside .

Putting things back together, it seems someone scraped away a little solder mask on the MPU and Driver Board and ran a jumper wire connecting the MPU and the Driver Board. It looks like a ground but I’ll have to confirm in the manual. This is my first WPC but I’ve never seen that before in any pictures. Any idea why that would be there?

EDIT: after looking again, it seems like it’s actually the +5V that’s being jumped from the MPU to the driver board

Welcome to the new ramp frustration club. I replaced all ramps and both sucked ass fit wise. Holes were off. steps ramp is 1/4 shorter than the original. They're super thick so stress shouldn't be an issue.

I've dealt with thicker new ramps that don't fit quite right before but this one is by far the worst. Funny the step ramp is 1/4" shorter because the main ramp is 1/4" too narrow. I also just noticed a hole for one of the wireforms was not drilled. Fantastic. Larry was not much help. Asked for pics then silent. Mentioned I was the only one with issues so guess I am just the cranky customer. This ramp was not cheap so yeah, I am a little picky. Just going to make it work. Good news is I got the led ocd boards installed. Tuned the inserts to be way less bright so really happy with the results. Love these boards!

What size option is being used for the FH step switch covers

Could someone tell me the normal behavior of the trap door? When i got my game it had an issue with the trap door closed solenoid. I was able to resolve the issue on the Driver board (bad tip 36c and a weak trace) and replaced the coil which had been cooked. So now it works in test Mode fine. But i find it strange that when you power up the game the door will open and close repeatedly for several seconds. Then it stops. But then it might start up again and cycle open and closed. This is all happening in attract mode.

During gameplay it seems normal. But in attract mode it doesnt seem to want to stay still. I’m concerned there is still an underlying issue that caused the coil to fail in the first place.

Check the switch behind the trapdoor and make sure it is working.

Thanks. I will double check that switch. I turned it on this morning and on initial boot it behaved. As in it just stayed closed. Played a couple games, it opened when i shot a ball around the trap door loop, then closed as i believe it is supposed to when you dont hit the trap door in time.

So then i leave it in attract mode, and for a while it was fine. Then it started back up. Open then immediately close, repeating that for several cycles then stops. The only thing going on in attract mode is lighting effects, so maybe something is going on with my lamp matrix interfering with that one switch? I dont even know if thats possible lol. Its the only coil acting up. My rule is before i tear a game down to restore i have to have it working 100%.

Had the same issue, trap door would open and close 3 times upon boot up. Turns out the microswitch for the trapdoor closed position was bad. Pull it and check continuity when you press it in. When u do swap it out Save the original long actuator arm to swap into your replacement microswitch.

Ok will i will give that a shot

I'm trying to get the speakers hooked back up after having removed the head. Problem is, some of the connectors are long gone and things were soldered directly.

According to the "Pre-DCS Speaker Connections - Early Games" section on http://www.dziedzic.us/wpc_speaker_sound_info.html, the backbox speaker panel's black-yellow wire runs to pin 2 of a connector (J505) and a black wire connects in-line with the cabinet speaker.

In MY backbox speaker panel, there is an IDC connector with the black wire connected to pin 4 and there is a stray black-yellow wire. It seems backwards from the diagram.

Would someone be able to snap a couple photos of:
- What's plugged into J504 and J505 on your sound board
- Where the stray wire from the backbox speaker panel connects

Not sure if this will help at all as mine is not original and has an aftermarket speaker, but it works. The stray barrel connector is not connected to anything on mine.

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