(Topic ID: 64458)

Funhouse!? Club... (Fans welcome)


By mof

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,092 posts
  • 304 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 hours ago by cadmium
  • Topic is favorited by 148 Pinsiders

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There are 2092 posts in this topic. You are on page 42 of 42.
#2051 31 days ago

Did any of the plastic pieces that mate to the plungers break? I had that happen recently. Superglued it back together while I track down the part I need and it’s holding for now.

#2054 31 days ago

Could someone please verify if their Funhouse plumb bob mechanism has a diode connected to the bottom wire? i have 2 funhouse machines, and don't see it on either.

Thanks!

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#2055 30 days ago

Looks like mine doesn’t have one. It tilts without issue.

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#2056 30 days ago
Quoted from Bravebluerx:

Could someone please verify if their Funhouse plumb bob mechanism has a diode connected to the bottom wire? i have 2 funhouse machines, and don't see it on either.
Thanks![quoted image]

This is not only for Riverboat pinball??

#2057 30 days ago

a Pinsider asked if I could create a custom plunger plate for FunHouse - so here are a left and right Cabinet styled artwork versions of Rudy.

https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?type=product&q=swinksfunhouse
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#2058 28 days ago

I am replacing a
Missing lampshade But haven’t seen it on before
When is it supposed to be on?
Thanks

#2059 28 days ago

Fairly sure the Lampshade light near Rudy's left eye is connected to the GI.
So always on if game is on yeah ?

#2060 28 days ago
Quoted from OzPinSmith:

Fairly sure the Lampshade light near Rudy's right eye is connected to the GI.
So always on if game is on yeah ?

Thanks. I wasn’t sure since it has a separate connector.

#2061 28 days ago
Quoted from topkat:

Thanks. I wasn’t sure since it has a separate connector.

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#2062 28 days ago

The light is on the same circuit as one section of the back glass lights. The other two Playfield GI circuits are daisy chained as you would expect.

#2063 28 days ago

Thanks for the help!
Now Rudy won’t have to be afraid of the dark

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#2064 27 days ago

Back in the club!
My first one and now this one. Not sure where Ill take it this time. Good to be back.

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#2065 27 days ago

Nice! Welcome to the club! Make sure the spring on the steps plunger side is the “silver” type spring strength per the factory parts manual. I just realized this was why i could never get up and around to the optos on the left ramp when you overshoot the skill shot.

#2066 25 days ago

Anyone have pics of FH with warm white or sunlight leds? I usually like sunlight but debating keeping the full retro look of warm white.

#2067 24 days ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Anyone have pics of FH with warm white or sunlight leds? I usually like sunlight but debating keeping the full retro look of warm white.

Mine is fitted with Comet warm-white retroSMD with the frosted covers. Standard 2SMD's and even 1SMD's are too bright for direct line of sight like under sling plastics and lane guides.

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#2068 23 days ago
Quoted from bbriese:

Mine is fitted with Comet warm-white retroSMD with the frosted covers. Standard 2SMD's and even 1SMD's are too bright for direct line of sight like under sling plastics and lane guides.[quoted image]

Never tried the retro SMD bulbs. Might have to give those a try. I typically do 1smd for inserts and 2smd for GI but definitely don't want FH to be that bright. Your game looks awesome btw.

#2069 23 days ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Never tried the retro SMD bulbs. Might have to give those a try. I typically do 1smd for inserts and 2smd for GI but definitely don't want FH to be that bright. Your game looks awesome btw.

LED's ALWAYS photograph brighter than in real life. And if you;re going to LED a funhouse it's almost mandatory to install an LEDOCD and GIOCD boards.
If you don't you lose midnight multi ball dimming and the LED's on/off are harsh.

#2070 23 days ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

LED's ALWAYS photograph brighter than in real life. And if you;re going to LED a funhouse it's almost mandatory to install an LEDOCD and GIOCD boards.
If you don't you lose midnight multi ball dimming and the LED's on/off are harsh.

I wondering if it's worth getting the GIOCD board for 7 seconds of lights dimming...

Is there any other point in the game that would make it worth the expense?

-Paul

#2071 23 days ago
Quoted from Pablito350:

I wondering if it's worth getting the GIOCD board for 7 seconds of lights dimming...
Is there any other point in the game that would make it worth the expense?
-Paul

1000% worth it. I didn't have it in mine for a long time, despite everyone telling me I needed it. There are a ton of lighting effects I forgot about. Huge difference. I felt stupid for not buying it earlier.

#2072 22 days ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Your game looks awesome btw.

Thank you. Having a bit of extra isolation time this spring meant I couldn't bring myself to go half-way on the restoration. This is Funhouse for God's sake...and it deserves respect.

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#2073 22 days ago
Quoted from Shredso:

1000% worth it. I didn't have it in mine for a long time, despite everyone telling me I needed it. There are a ton of lighting effects I forgot about. Huge difference. I felt stupid for not buying it earlier.

Agreed. I debated getting the boards for a while. Once I saw them in action there was no turning back. Most of the lighting effects are subtle but it all adds up to a much better visual experience. They eliminate any ghosting and make all lamps work exactly as designed. Definitely getting the boards for FH.

1 week later
#2074 15 days ago

Just added Rudy to the lineup today.

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#2075 15 days ago

I want back in..... I have missed Rudy for three years since I sold FH. I should have kept it. Anyone know of a nice example for sale near NJ?

#2076 12 days ago

Anyone use the starship main ramp? I had to remove the metal post thing that is on the left side to get it to remotely fit. Getting all the holes to line up is a challenge. I need to pull pretty hard on the right side but think it will work. Just afraid it will be a lot of stress on ramp. The top plastic cover holes are way off so keeping old one even though a bit yellowed. Should these just drop in?

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#2077 11 days ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Anyone use the starship main ramp? I had to remove the metal post thing that is on the left side to get it to remotely fit. Getting all the holes to line up is a challenge. I need to pull pretty hard on the right side but think it will work. Just afraid it will be a lot of stress on ramp. The top plastic cover holes are way off so keeping old one even though a bit yellowed. Should these just drop in?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Maybe change the holes into slots to relieve the stress.

I made my own top plastic out of lexan. Had to get rid of the yellow one!

#2078 11 days ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Anyone use the starship main ramp? I had to remove the metal post thing that is on the left side to get it to remotely fit. Getting all the holes to line up is a challenge. I need to pull pretty hard on the right side but think it will work. Just afraid it will be a lot of stress on ramp. The top plastic cover holes are way off so keeping old one even though a bit yellowed. Should these just drop in?
[quoted image][quoted image]

This doesn't sound right to me . I bought one of these ( years ago ) and didn't have these issues. Did you contact Larry?

#2079 11 days ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

This doesn't sound right to me . I bought one of these ( years ago ) and didn't have these issues. Did you contact Larry?

I'm in the middle of a full shop with most of the pf parts removed. Maybe it will fit better once I start assembling the pf. If not I will contact Larry.

#2080 10 days ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Anyone use the starship main ramp? I had to remove the metal post thing that is on the left side to get it to remotely fit. Getting all the holes to line up is a challenge. I need to pull pretty hard on the right side but think it will work. Just afraid it will be a lot of stress on ramp. The top plastic cover holes are way off so keeping old one even though a bit yellowed. Should these just drop in?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thicker, more robust ramps usually mean a hot date with a dremel.

#2081 10 days ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Thicker, more robust ramps usually mean a hot date with a dremel.

LOL, that's a funny way to put it. I have put new full sets of repro ramps on about a dozen games including funhouse, whitewater and creech and never had to modify a ramp to fit.

#2082 7 days ago

Has anyone had any luck finding eyeballs for Rudy? I’m having a heck of a time!!

#2083 7 days ago

there is a single eyeball for sale on ebay right now

ebay.com link » Nos Funhouse Pinball Machine Rudy Eye Ball

#2084 7 days ago
Quoted from zerbam:

there is a single eyeball for sale on ebay right now
ebay.com link » Nos Funhouse Pinball Machine Rudy Eye Ball

Id buy it now.

The last set of 2 with one scratched up terribly went for $80

#2085 7 days ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

LOL, that's a funny way to put it. I have put new full sets of repro ramps on about a dozen games including funhouse, whitewater and creech and never had to modify a ramp to fit.

Let's see....I've had to modify FH, Whirlwind, WH2O, Earthshaker, DW. Pretty much every one I've used them on.

#2086 7 days ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Let's see....I've had to modify FH, Whirlwind, WH2O, Earthshaker, DW. Pretty much every one I've used them on.

Dayummm

#2087 7 days ago

Happy Fourth everyone!

Just picked up a working Funhouse last night and wound up needing to take the head off to fit inside .

Putting things back together, it seems someone scraped away a little solder mask on the MPU and Driver Board and ran a jumper wire connecting the MPU and the Driver Board. It looks like a ground but I’ll have to confirm in the manual. This is my first WPC but I’ve never seen that before in any pictures. Any idea why that would be there?

EDIT: after looking again, it seems like it’s actually the +5V that’s being jumped from the MPU to the driver board

#2088 6 days ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Anyone use the starship main ramp? I had to remove the metal post thing that is on the left side to get it to remotely fit. Getting all the holes to line up is a challenge. I need to pull pretty hard on the right side but think it will work. Just afraid it will be a lot of stress on ramp. The top plastic cover holes are way off so keeping old one even though a bit yellowed. Should these just drop in?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Welcome to the new ramp frustration club. I replaced all ramps and both sucked ass fit wise. Holes were off. steps ramp is 1/4 shorter than the original. They're super thick so stress shouldn't be an issue.

#2089 6 days ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Welcome to the new ramp frustration club. I replaced all ramps and both sucked ass fit wise. Holes were off. steps ramp is 1/4 shorter than the original. They're super thick so stress shouldn't be an issue.

I've dealt with thicker new ramps that don't fit quite right before but this one is by far the worst. Funny the step ramp is 1/4" shorter because the main ramp is 1/4" too narrow. I also just noticed a hole for one of the wireforms was not drilled. Fantastic. Larry was not much help. Asked for pics then silent. Mentioned I was the only one with issues so guess I am just the cranky customer. This ramp was not cheap so yeah, I am a little picky. Just going to make it work. Good news is I got the led ocd boards installed. Tuned the inserts to be way less bright so really happy with the results. Love these boards!

#2090 3 days ago

Howdy Funhouse owners. A customer recently shared some photos with me of our hot dog switch cover mod he requested for his Funhouse. I originally designed the switch covers to get rid of the tacky orange ones on my Diner. It's serendipitous that with a little blue paint these things look fantastic on the step gates for Funhouse.

If you think they look better than the original drab plastic covers you can order them here :

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1256-upkick-pinball/03745-hot-dog-switch-cover

Get yerself a hawtdawg!

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#2091 1 day ago

What size option is being used for the FH step switch covers

Quoted from cadmium:

Howdy Funhouse owners. A customer recently shared some photos with me of our hot dog switch cover mod he requested for his Funhouse. I originally designed the switch covers to get rid of the tacky orange ones on my Diner. It's serendipitous that with a little blue paint these things look fantastic on the step gates for Funhouse.
If you think they look better than the original drab plastic covers you can order them here :
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1256-upkick-pinball/03745-hot-dog-switch-cover
Get yerself a hawtdawg![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#2092 7 hours ago
Quoted from Bravebluerx:

What size option is being used for the FH step switch covers

The large (43 mm) base. The smaller is only for the CFTBL snack bar. I'll make it clearer in the item description. Thanks.

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