Ah yes, nice catch!

I got the same black gear from Marco a while back, and had the same problem. I had to hack on the gear before it worked smoothly.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-club/page/36#post-5415247

Result:

I can say that this worked brilliantly.

Removed both resistors:
58 (resized).jpg

Soldered in 2 new 150k ohm resistors. (Don't worry I flowed a little more solder in there, but didn't take a pic of it. I erred on the side of caution because I didn't want to apply too much heat and burn out a trace)

60 (resized).jpg

And it works!

I think what it actually did was lower the music volume to balance it better between Rudy and the music because when I powered up the game I noticed that the music level was lower than it just was while Rudy remained the same. Raising the volume a couple of clicks confirmed that Rudy was now not drowned out by the music.

A perfect fix for those that are using a sound board out of another game.

-Paul

Thanks. I thought I had read that sometime.

I’m assuming the black gear is not going to work without modification. If I order from Marco will I get the black version or the white version? If it is white will it work or will it have the same problem?

maybe this one:

http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=03-8471

email them to see if its the white one.

Or this one from marco:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8471

Starting a rebuild/restoration of what is basically a (ribbed) parts machine - head is empty except for eyes and mandible, both slingshots are completely missing, trapdoor lid is gone ... etc. etc.
Luckily there's a new Mirco playfield waiting, and the cabinet is going to get new decals and a new translite.
The boards .. don't know yet

I have identified most of the missing parts from the manual, but I can't figure out what 01-9902 "Plate protector" (page 2-26 in the manual) is.

Is it the plastic behind/after the trapdoor (se picture) ?

2020-05-17 17.08.57 (resized).jpg

actionpinball.com has the plastic for the trap door lane, and a lot of funhouse parts, not all.

Yes, thank you, I found it here : http://actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=03-8502
Seems the part number is 03-8502 - but what is 01-9902 then ?
Is it the same item ?

yes, its the upgraded one the fits over the hinge.
This eliminates the ball hang in the gap behind the trap door.

pinballinreno ok, cool, thanks for your help

Hi guys,

Having a hard time getting the funhouse home rom 905 to run. When i turn on the game the screen is blank and a horrid buzzing comes which i read was normal for 5 seconds on your first boot, but mine never boots up, blank screen. I am Running L9 and M9 versions fine on the same 27C020 eprom chip with w1 jumped and the L3 sound chips with no issues. Even tried eprom 27C2001 which runs L9 and M9 rom versions fine but not the 905Home rom.

Verified my 905h code on chip to software code and no corruption issues.

Any suggestions?

I downloaded the Home version from ipdb(sound file and rom file names are swapped) and another version from dropbox previously linked here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-l-905h-please

But no luck booting.

Rudy got a shot of B12 today with upgraded WPC flipper springs!

image (resized).jpeg

Shot of B12! How do you know is wasn’t as shot if iron, or magnesium, or maybe D. Lol. Rebuilt flippers make a world of difference. It’s one of the first repairs I do to new pins I pick up.

Well if you really must know, it was NZT !

Rudy is no stranger to rehab.

I finally got my new pf back in. As I am slowly connecting the connectors, I see a j the manual j133 is lamps but mine was working prior j134?
Also the red/gray wire was 2 wires together into the connector. Is that right ?

40680A63-8AC6-4073-BBB4-7E07BA270932 (resized).jpeg

40B61381-E9FD-4BC3-B229-A04D8D82B995 (resized).jpeg

You can interchange those so no worries.

Two wires together isn’t right.

Thanks. Any idea where the other red. Vio would be from or go to? Is there another red vio that would go to something else?
I suppose I can try to trace it back
Everything did work prior so

finally got the pf back in. Damn thing was heavy.. nothing started smoking either on boot up , so Now only a few minor things to fix until it can be played again

42281A83-9919-4C9F-AB14-7302FC1F865B (resized).jpeg

One of the few things that always annoyed me on my Funhouse was how certain lamps - even after swapped for LEDs - were right in your face as you play. I was especially plagued by four of them on the left side of the playfield: the one under the rise on the crazy steps, the one just behind the upper flipper, and ones behind the "T" standup target for STEP. I could never think of an appropriately functional but also aesthetic way to soften them so over the years I just lived with it.

This past weekend, while doing some thinning of old crap that's been laying around too long, I came across a half-used bag of pillow fiberfill. It hit me as I was about to toss it in the trash: COTTON CANDY!!! See the pics.

I used a pink and a blue alcohol-based marker to color four balls of fiberfill. The two I used are double ended: chisel tip and brush tip. The brush tip worked perfectly when you use the side of brush. It only takes a few minutes to do each one. You want a deep, vibrant color because if you stop when you reach point where the ball looks like cotton candy in your hand, you'll hardly notice the color when it's lit up (not that I did that in my initial rush to try one on my game ASAP, of course.) I still have a little tweaking to do of the ones behind the T, but I'm liking both the effectiveness and how it fits with the theme.

(And yes - that is a spotlight I added using a Matrix kit from the good folks at Comet. It helps illuminate Rudy's face. I tied it to the LED in my lampshade so they'd operate together.)

Cotton Candy Materials (resized).jpg

Cotton Candy OFF (resized).jpg

Cotton Candy ON (resized).jpg

Looks great!

That looks like a beautiful example of FH! Do you have any wide shots?

Finally in the club after years of wanting one. Just love this game! Couple of questions for you guys:

1) I have a credit dot saying to check right flipper switch. Game flips fine and neither lower flipper activates switch in switch test. Does that mean they are not working?

2) Rudy has trouble looking left. He looks right okay and does everything else fine. Is there a guide to taking the head apart?

3) Anyone have a spare original translite in good shape? Mine has a bad scratch

Get the mirrored backglass from CPR. It is gorgeous!

1. I had this happen once and it was a connector in the backbox that was a little loose. These are not CPU controlled so they will work even though the CPU can't see it. I'm not sure if the CPU sees the cabinet switch or EOS, I'm sure someone will chime in, but cleaning all of them couldn't hurt.

2. The entire assembly comes out fairly easily. It's not so bad once you get it on the bench.

3. I do have a nice original translite. I bought a replacement hoping the new ones would stand up better to the LED's without being washed out. No such luck. What's an original translite go for? I'll have to dig it out, but I remember it being in great shape.

Didn't know there was such a thing. I thought they only had mirrored backglass for a few titles but there is a ton. Kinda pricey but bet that would look pretty sweet. Any fitment issues? Heard some people had trouble getting it installed and/or issues with edges. Any pics?

I checked connectors in the backbox. All seem to be seated securely. Cleaned the contacts as well but no change. Game still says check sw11 right flipper. Not too worried about it but sure hate hearing that credit dot sound on bootup.

I will remove Rudy at some point when I shop the pin out. Any tips for reducing noise or fixing eyes?

I am tempted to get the cpr backglass but not sure I want to spend that much. I would do $100 including shipping if nice. If the leds are too bright, I recommend using 1smd frosted and remove some of the bulbs. I had to do that to my FT.

I do think it is in quite excellent shape.
This one is most definitely anchored, chained and bolted to the floor.

I can send you a few pics unless folks here really want to see more pictures of another Funhouse.

Rick at Mr.Pinball (Reno, NV) has or had 3D Funhouse translites as well. I have 3 of them (ToM / FT & Wh20)

Well, it is a Funhouse fan club... I look at every pic...

Unfortunately, I have yet to put it in the machine. I may just hang it up. I haven't decided yet. (I got it and the black & white glass for TAF at the same time. I don't have a TAF. It's stunning!)

I just noticed that if I press the right flipper button in switch test, it says left flipper switch 12 on the display. If I press the left flipper button, no switches are registered. Before I was just lifting the flippers by hand and that does not register any switches on any flippers. Both buttons flip the correct flippers. Game still has credit dot for right flipper switch 11 which makes sense now since it is not registering. Any ideas of what is going on? I cannot find any other switch issues and game plays fine.

If I have 2 balls locked a hard shot to the lock is sometimes coming back out. The gate doesn’t look damaged but wondering if there is anything else that might be causing an issue.

I have had balls scoot by the diverter but never back out the way it came. That is odd. Is the wire gate a factory one? I know sometimes people make them out of music wire (me too) and they tend to be a lot bouncier. The one I made for BOP sometimes allows the ball back down the shooter lane.

I was having issues at the diverter too and added another spring to help the original one a little. That seems to be working very well.

The wire gate looks original and doesn’t look deformed at all. I think it’s just (im)perfect timing that the 3rd ball into the lock hits the ones already there and goes back out before the gate is down enough to prevent it escaping.

I did a quick search, but came up empty handed.

Has anyone found an available replacement for the trapdoor crank arm (part a-14160), or a good fix? My left point is worn to the point where it won't lift the trapdoor anymore.

I figured out the problem. Figured I would document in case someone else has the same issue and searched this thread. I forgot to mention I had a Rottendog driver board. Forgot myself until I opened backbox. Pinwiki documented that on early versions of the board it had the flippers reversed. That was my issue as well as a burnt resistor that explained why game never registered one of the flippers. A friend did the suggested fix and replaced the burnt resistor. Now the game sees the flippers correctly and no more credit dot.

https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Special_Note_regarding_RottenDog_Power.2FDriver_boards_manufactured_prior_to_February.2C_2012

New to the club, stomping out all the bugs on a game that came in as a major project. I thought I had it playing 100% but I just noticed a potential issue:
If the game ends with the STEP gate (at the left outlane) activated, it remains activated after game over and through attract mode, only deactivating when you start the next game. I probably wouldn't have noticed with the glass on, but, with it off, I heard the buzzing coil. So it's not mechanical or magnetized, the coil is activated.
Is this normal behavior?
Is it related to my old L-2 roms? (new ROMS coming soon)

Presumably. Never heard of this behavior before.

I've noticed this on mine. L-3 ROMs. Original boardset.

Happens on mine as well and I have the latest L9.05H rom. Always bugged me, it buzzes a lot.

Huh, guess I never ended a game with it open!

Either that or I hit start again so fast I didn't notice.

Still don't think I've ever heard of it before! And I've had mine going on 12 years...

I have a backglass lighting question. It looks like all but a half dozen lights have wedge sockets. Are the bayonet sockets supposed to have blinking aka 455 bulbs?

Correct

Thanks for the insight, guys. I’m glad I didn’t spend too much time chasing that down. I know it’s a low resistance coil but I still find it odd that it could potentially be activated for hours between games. I guess coin door lockout coils have to do it but I usually disconnect those.
I’ve had success quieting down buzzing coils/relays like this by polishing the plate that gets pulled against the relay, maybe I’ll give that a try here.
Thanks.

I think I just figured out the answer to my own question below for other folks for future reference. I will confirm shortly on my machine.

The Funhouse 9_05 home rom size is a 512kb image and therefore requires the appropriate sized chip to burn on like a 27C4001 or 27C040! The 27C2001/27C020 chips that folks reference to use for funhouse U6 rom burning that I purchased only worked on the 905L and M versions because those eproms were 256kb and the L and M rom image were 256kb images, ugh, took me forever to figure this one out.

Confirmed that was that issue, running home version no issues now

I have original full set of plastics for Funhouse -$125

Has anyone ever made a guide for working on Rudy? My eyelids aren't closing. The coil is firing, but the plunger is not lifting. It moves freely by hand, so it isn't binder on anything.

Thanks

If your game is missing the centering flange, the eyelids will have issues. It's pretty common to have the flange missing for some reason.

It has the flange.