(Topic ID: 64458)

Funhouse!? Club... (Fans welcome)


By mof

6 years ago



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There are 2047 posts in this topic. You are on page 41 of 41.
#2001 18 days ago

Ah yes, nice catch!

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Ok
Finally figured out this mystery.
The small flatrail is installed backwards in both of these cases.
My game has never been disassembled or even had the rubber replaced.
My picture on post #1984 clearly shows the small flat rail aligned with the lane guide on the shooter lane side.
Its also installed the reverse of the 2 games posted.
This backwards installation certainly makes a cutout in the ball path allowing the ball to hit the rubber on the post.
So, flip around the small flatrail and problem solved.

#2002 18 days ago
Quoted from schwism:

Question about the round jaw gear. Mine was looking pretty beat up so I ordered a replacement from The Pinball Wizard. It’s black as opposed the the stock white. It looks like it is a little too big. The gears jam up and don’t move freely.
Is this typical? Is the Marco version better about this?

I got the same black gear from Marco a while back, and had the same problem. I had to hack on the gear before it worked smoothly.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-club/page/36#post-5415247

#2003 18 days ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

Yes, this has come up before, on RGP over 10 years ago. I tried posting a link but it wasn't working. When I went to RGP and searched for Funhouse resistors it was the first hit.
Boils down to, you already figured it out!

Result:

I can say that this worked brilliantly.

Removed both resistors:
58 (resized).jpg

Soldered in 2 new 150k ohm resistors. (Don't worry I flowed a little more solder in there, but didn't take a pic of it. I erred on the side of caution because I didn't want to apply too much heat and burn out a trace)

60 (resized).jpg

And it works!

I think what it actually did was lower the music volume to balance it better between Rudy and the music because when I powered up the game I noticed that the music level was lower than it just was while Rudy remained the same. Raising the volume a couple of clicks confirmed that Rudy was now not drowned out by the music.

A perfect fix for those that are using a sound board out of another game.

-Paul

#2004 18 days ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

I got the same black gear from Marco a while back, and had the same problem. I had to hack on the gear before it worked smoothly.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-club/page/36#post-5415247

Thanks. I thought I had read that sometime.

I’m assuming the black gear is not going to work without modification. If I order from Marco will I get the black version or the white version? If it is white will it work or will it have the same problem?

#2005 18 days ago
Quoted from schwism:

Thanks. I thought I had read that sometime.
I’m assuming the black gear is not going to work without modification. If I order from Marco will I get the black version or the white version? If it is white will it work or will it have the same problem?

maybe this one:

http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=03-8471

email them to see if its the white one.

Or this one from marco:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8471

#2006 17 days ago

Starting a rebuild/restoration of what is basically a (ribbed) parts machine - head is empty except for eyes and mandible, both slingshots are completely missing, trapdoor lid is gone ... etc. etc.
Luckily there's a new Mirco playfield waiting, and the cabinet is going to get new decals and a new translite.
The boards .. don't know yet

I have identified most of the missing parts from the manual, but I can't figure out what 01-9902 "Plate protector" (page 2-26 in the manual) is.

Is it the plastic behind/after the trapdoor (se picture) ?

2020-05-17 17.08.57 (resized).jpg
#2007 17 days ago
Quoted from Zigzagzag:

Starting a rebuild/restoration of what is basically a (ribbed) parts machine - head is empty except for eyes and mandible, both slingshots are completely missing, trapdoor lid is gone ... etc. etc.
Luckily there's a new Mirco playfield waiting, and the cabinet is going to get new decals and a new translite.
The boards .. don't know yet
I have identified most of the missing parts from the manual, but I can't figure out what 01-9902 "Plate protector" (page 2-26 in the manual) is.
Is it the plastic behind/after the trapdoor (se picture) ?
[quoted image]

actionpinball.com has the plastic for the trap door lane, and a lot of funhouse parts, not all.

#2008 17 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

actionpinball.com has the plastic for the trap door lane, and a lot of funhouse parts, not all.

Yes, thank you, I found it here : http://actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=03-8502
Seems the part number is 03-8502 - but what is 01-9902 then ?
Is it the same item ?

#2009 17 days ago
Quoted from Zigzagzag:

Yes, thank you, I found it here : http://actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=03-8502
Seems the part number is 03-8502 - but what is 01-9902 then ?
Is it the same item ?

yes, its the upgraded one the fits over the hinge.
This eliminates the ball hang in the gap behind the trap door.

#2010 17 days ago

pinballinreno ok, cool, thanks for your help

#2011 12 days ago

Hi guys,

Having a hard time getting the funhouse home rom 905 to run. When i turn on the game the screen is blank and a horrid buzzing comes which i read was normal for 5 seconds on your first boot, but mine never boots up, blank screen. I am Running L9 and M9 versions fine on the same 27C020 eprom chip with w1 jumped and the L3 sound chips with no issues. Even tried eprom 27C2001 which runs L9 and M9 rom versions fine but not the 905Home rom.

Verified my 905h code on chip to software code and no corruption issues.

Any suggestions?

I downloaded the Home version from ipdb(sound file and rom file names are swapped) and another version from dropbox previously linked here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-l-905h-please

But no luck booting.

#2012 11 days ago

Rudy got a shot of B12 today with upgraded WPC flipper springs!

image (resized).jpeg
#2013 11 days ago

Shot of B12! How do you know is wasn’t as shot if iron, or magnesium, or maybe D. Lol. Rebuilt flippers make a world of difference. It’s one of the first repairs I do to new pins I pick up.

#2014 11 days ago
Quoted from MMGB:

Shot of B12! How do you know is wasn’t as shot if iron, or magnesium, or maybe D. Lol. Rebuilt flippers make a world of difference. It’s one of the first repairs I do to new pins I pick up.

Well if you really must know, it was NZT !

#2015 11 days ago

Rudy is no stranger to rehab.

#2016 11 days ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

Rudy is no stranger to rehab.

#2017 10 days ago

I finally got my new pf back in. As I am slowly connecting the connectors, I see a j the manual j133 is lamps but mine was working prior j134?
Also the red/gray wire was 2 wires together into the connector. Is that right ?

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#2018 10 days ago

You can interchange those so no worries.

Two wires together isn’t right.

#2019 10 days ago

Thanks. Any idea where the other red. Vio would be from or go to? Is there another red vio that would go to something else?
I suppose I can try to trace it back
Everything did work prior so

#2020 8 days ago

finally got the pf back in. Damn thing was heavy.. nothing started smoking either on boot up , so Now only a few minor things to fix until it can be played again

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#2021 8 days ago

One of the few things that always annoyed me on my Funhouse was how certain lamps - even after swapped for LEDs - were right in your face as you play. I was especially plagued by four of them on the left side of the playfield: the one under the rise on the crazy steps, the one just behind the upper flipper, and ones behind the "T" standup target for STEP. I could never think of an appropriately functional but also aesthetic way to soften them so over the years I just lived with it.

This past weekend, while doing some thinning of old crap that's been laying around too long, I came across a half-used bag of pillow fiberfill. It hit me as I was about to toss it in the trash: COTTON CANDY!!! See the pics.

I used a pink and a blue alcohol-based marker to color four balls of fiberfill. The two I used are double ended: chisel tip and brush tip. The brush tip worked perfectly when you use the side of brush. It only takes a few minutes to do each one. You want a deep, vibrant color because if you stop when you reach point where the ball looks like cotton candy in your hand, you'll hardly notice the color when it's lit up (not that I did that in my initial rush to try one on my game ASAP, of course.) I still have a little tweaking to do of the ones behind the T, but I'm liking both the effectiveness and how it fits with the theme.

(And yes - that is a spotlight I added using a Matrix kit from the good folks at Comet. It helps illuminate Rudy's face. I tied it to the LED in my lampshade so they'd operate together.)

Cotton Candy Materials (resized).jpgCotton Candy OFF (resized).jpgCotton Candy ON (resized).jpg
#2022 7 days ago
Quoted from topkat:

finally got the pf back in. Damn thing was heavy.. nothing started smoking either on boot up , so Now only a few minor things to fix until it can be played again
[quoted image]

Looks great!

#2023 7 days ago
Quoted from TheRudyB:

One of the few things that always annoyed me on my Funhouse was how certain lamps - even after swapped for LEDs - were right in your face as you play. I was especially plagued by four of them on the left side of the playfield: the one under the rise on the crazy steps, the one just behind the upper flipper, and ones behind the "T" standup target for STEP. I could never think of an appropriately functional but also aesthetic way to soften them so over the years I just lived with it.
This past weekend, while doing some thinning of old crap that's been laying around too long, I came across a half-used bag of pillow fiberfill. It hit me as I was about to toss it in the trash: COTTON CANDY!!! See the pics.
I used a pink and a blue alcohol-based marker to color four balls of fiberfill. The two I used are double ended: chisel tip and brush tip. The brush tip worked perfectly when you use the side of brush. It only takes a few minutes to do each one. You want a deep, vibrant color because if you stop when you reach point where the ball looks like cotton candy in your hand, you'll hardly notice the color when it's lit up (not that I did that in my initial rush to try one on my game ASAP, of course.) I still have a little tweaking to do of the ones behind the T, but I'm liking both the effectiveness and how it fits with the theme.
(And yes - that is a spotlight I added using a Matrix kit from the good folks at Comet. It helps illuminate Rudy's face. I tied it to the LED in my lampshade so they'd operate together.)[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That looks like a beautiful example of FH! Do you have any wide shots?

#2024 7 days ago

Finally in the club after years of wanting one. Just love this game! Couple of questions for you guys:

1) I have a credit dot saying to check right flipper switch. Game flips fine and neither lower flipper activates switch in switch test. Does that mean they are not working?

2) Rudy has trouble looking left. He looks right okay and does everything else fine. Is there a guide to taking the head apart?

3) Anyone have a spare original translite in good shape? Mine has a bad scratch

#2025 7 days ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Finally in the club after years of wanting one. Just love this game! Couple of questions for you guys:
3) Anyone have a spare original translite in good shape? Mine has a bad scratch

Get the mirrored backglass from CPR. It is gorgeous!

#2026 7 days ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Finally in the club after years of wanting one. Just love this game! Couple of questions for you guys:
1) I have a credit dot saying to check right flipper switch. Game flips fine and neither lower flipper activates switch in switch test. Does that mean they are not working?
2) Rudy has trouble looking left. He looks right okay and does everything else fine. Is there a guide to taking the head apart?
3) Anyone have a spare original translite in good shape? Mine has a bad scratch

1. I had this happen once and it was a connector in the backbox that was a little loose. These are not CPU controlled so they will work even though the CPU can't see it. I'm not sure if the CPU sees the cabinet switch or EOS, I'm sure someone will chime in, but cleaning all of them couldn't hurt.

2. The entire assembly comes out fairly easily. It's not so bad once you get it on the bench.

3. I do have a nice original translite. I bought a replacement hoping the new ones would stand up better to the LED's without being washed out. No such luck. What's an original translite go for? I'll have to dig it out, but I remember it being in great shape.

#2027 7 days ago
Quoted from SKWilson:

Get the mirrored backglass from CPR. It is gorgeous!

Didn't know there was such a thing. I thought they only had mirrored backglass for a few titles but there is a ton. Kinda pricey but bet that would look pretty sweet. Any fitment issues? Heard some people had trouble getting it installed and/or issues with edges. Any pics?

Quoted from Shredso:

1. I had this happen once and it was a connector in the backbox that was a little loose. These are not CPU controlled so they will work even though the CPU can't see it. I'm not sure if the CPU sees the cabinet switch or EOS, I'm sure someone will chime in, but cleaning all of them couldn't hurt.
2. The entire assembly comes out fairly easily. It's not so bad once you get it on the bench.
3. I do have a nice original translite. I bought a replacement hoping the new ones would stand up better to the LED's without being washed out. No such luck. What's an original translite go for? I'll have to dig it out, but I remember it being in great shape.

I checked connectors in the backbox. All seem to be seated securely. Cleaned the contacts as well but no change. Game still says check sw11 right flipper. Not too worried about it but sure hate hearing that credit dot sound on bootup.

I will remove Rudy at some point when I shop the pin out. Any tips for reducing noise or fixing eyes?

I am tempted to get the cpr backglass but not sure I want to spend that much. I would do $100 including shipping if nice. If the leds are too bright, I recommend using 1smd frosted and remove some of the bulbs. I had to do that to my FT.

#2028 7 days ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

That looks like a beautiful example of FH! Do you have any wide shots?

I do think it is in quite excellent shape.
This one is most definitely anchored, chained and bolted to the floor.

I can send you a few pics unless folks here really want to see more pictures of another Funhouse.

#2029 7 days ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

3) Anyone have a spare original translite in good shape? Mine has a bad scratch

Rick at Mr.Pinball (Reno, NV) has or had 3D Funhouse translites as well. I have 3 of them (ToM / FT & Wh20)

#2030 7 days ago
Quoted from TheRudyB:

I can send you a few pics unless folks here really want to see more pictures of another Funhouse.

Well, it is a Funhouse fan club... I look at every pic...

#2031 7 days ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Didn't know there was such a thing. I thought they only had mirrored backglass for a few titles but there is a ton. Kinda pricey but bet that would look pretty sweet. Any fitment issues? Heard some people had trouble getting it installed and/or issues with edges. Any pics?

Unfortunately, I have yet to put it in the machine. I may just hang it up. I haven't decided yet. (I got it and the black & white glass for TAF at the same time. I don't have a TAF. It's stunning!)

#2032 7 days ago

I just noticed that if I press the right flipper button in switch test, it says left flipper switch 12 on the display. If I press the left flipper button, no switches are registered. Before I was just lifting the flippers by hand and that does not register any switches on any flippers. Both buttons flip the correct flippers. Game still has credit dot for right flipper switch 11 which makes sense now since it is not registering. Any ideas of what is going on? I cannot find any other switch issues and game plays fine.

#2033 7 days ago

If I have 2 balls locked a hard shot to the lock is sometimes coming back out. The gate doesn’t look damaged but wondering if there is anything else that might be causing an issue.

#2034 6 days ago
Quoted from desertT1:

If I have 2 balls locked a hard shot to the lock is sometimes coming back out. The gate doesn’t look damaged but wondering if there is anything else that might be causing an issue.

I have had balls scoot by the diverter but never back out the way it came. That is odd. Is the wire gate a factory one? I know sometimes people make them out of music wire (me too) and they tend to be a lot bouncier. The one I made for BOP sometimes allows the ball back down the shooter lane.

#2035 6 days ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I have had balls scoot by the diverter but never back out the way it came. That is odd. Is the wire gate a factory one? I know sometimes people make them out of music wire (me too) and they tend to be a lot bouncier. The one I made for BOP sometimes allows the ball back down the shooter lane.

I was having issues at the diverter too and added another spring to help the original one a little. That seems to be working very well.

The wire gate looks original and doesn’t look deformed at all. I think it’s just (im)perfect timing that the 3rd ball into the lock hits the ones already there and goes back out before the gate is down enough to prevent it escaping.

#2036 5 days ago

I did a quick search, but came up empty handed.

Has anyone found an available replacement for the trapdoor crank arm (part a-14160), or a good fix? My left point is worn to the point where it won't lift the trapdoor anymore.

#2037 3 days ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

1) I have a credit dot saying to check right flipper switch. Game flips fine and neither lower flipper activates switch in switch test. Does that mean they are not working?

I figured out the problem. Figured I would document in case someone else has the same issue and searched this thread. I forgot to mention I had a Rottendog driver board. Forgot myself until I opened backbox. Pinwiki documented that on early versions of the board it had the flippers reversed. That was my issue as well as a burnt resistor that explained why game never registered one of the flippers. A friend did the suggested fix and replaced the burnt resistor. Now the game sees the flippers correctly and no more credit dot.

https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Special_Note_regarding_RottenDog_Power.2FDriver_boards_manufactured_prior_to_February.2C_2012

#2038 2 days ago

New to the club, stomping out all the bugs on a game that came in as a major project. I thought I had it playing 100% but I just noticed a potential issue:
If the game ends with the STEP gate (at the left outlane) activated, it remains activated after game over and through attract mode, only deactivating when you start the next game. I probably wouldn't have noticed with the glass on, but, with it off, I heard the buzzing coil. So it's not mechanical or magnetized, the coil is activated.
Is this normal behavior?
Is it related to my old L-2 roms? (new ROMS coming soon)

#2039 2 days ago
Quoted from MrArt2u:

Is it related to my old L-2 roms? (new ROMS coming soon)

Presumably. Never heard of this behavior before.

#2040 1 day ago
Quoted from MrArt2u:

New to the club, stomping out all the bugs on a game that came in as a major project. I thought I had it playing 100% but I just noticed a potential issue:
If the game ends with the STEP gate (at the left outlane) activated, it remains activated after game over and through attract mode, only deactivating when you start the next game. I probably wouldn't have noticed with the glass on, but, with it off, I heard the buzzing coil. So it's not mechanical or magnetized, the coil is activated.
Is this normal behavior?
Is it related to my old L-2 roms? (new ROMS coming soon)

I've noticed this on mine. L-3 ROMs. Original boardset.

#2041 1 day ago
Quoted from MrArt2u:

New to the club, stomping out all the bugs on a game that came in as a major project. I thought I had it playing 100% but I just noticed a potential issue:
If the game ends with the STEP gate (at the left outlane) activated, it remains activated after game over and through attract mode, only deactivating when you start the next game. I probably wouldn't have noticed with the glass on, but, with it off, I heard the buzzing coil. So it's not mechanical or magnetized, the coil is activated.
Is this normal behavior?
Is it related to my old L-2 roms? (new ROMS coming soon)

Happens on mine as well and I have the latest L9.05H rom. Always bugged me, it buzzes a lot.

#2042 1 day ago

Huh, guess I never ended a game with it open!

Either that or I hit start again so fast I didn't notice.

Still don't think I've ever heard of it before! And I've had mine going on 12 years...

#2043 1 day ago

I have a backglass lighting question. It looks like all but a half dozen lights have wedge sockets. Are the bayonet sockets supposed to have blinking aka 455 bulbs?

#2044 1 day ago
Quoted from schwism:

I have a backglass lighting question. It looks like all but a half dozen lights have wedge sockets. Are the bayonet sockets supposed to have blinking aka 455 bulbs?

Correct

#2045 1 day ago
Quoted from dmcinnes:

Happens on mine as well and I have the latest L9.05H rom. Always bugged me, it buzzes a lot.

Thanks for the insight, guys. I’m glad I didn’t spend too much time chasing that down. I know it’s a low resistance coil but I still find it odd that it could potentially be activated for hours between games. I guess coin door lockout coils have to do it but I usually disconnect those.
I’ve had success quieting down buzzing coils/relays like this by polishing the plate that gets pulled against the relay, maybe I’ll give that a try here.
Thanks.

#2046 11 hours ago

I think I just figured out the answer to my own question below for other folks for future reference. I will confirm shortly on my machine.

The Funhouse 9_05 home rom size is a 512kb image and therefore requires the appropriate sized chip to burn on like a 27C4001 or 27C040! The 27C2001/27C020 chips that folks reference to use for funhouse U6 rom burning that I purchased only worked on the 905L and M versions because those eproms were 256kb and the L and M rom image were 256kb images, ugh, took me forever to figure this one out.

Quoted from Bravebluerx:

Hi guys,
Having a hard time getting the funhouse home rom 905 to run. When i turn on the game the screen is blank and a horrid buzzing comes which i read was normal for 5 seconds on your first boot, but mine never boots up, blank screen. I am Running L9 and M9 versions fine on the same 27C020 eprom chip with w1 jumped and the L3 sound chips with no issues. Even tried eprom 27C2001 which runs L9 and M9 rom versions fine but not the 905Home rom.
Verified my 905h code on chip to software code and no corruption issues.
Any suggestions?
I downloaded the Home version from ipdb(sound file and rom file names are swapped) and another version from dropbox previously linked here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-l-905h-please
But no luck booting.

#2047 9 hours ago

I have original full set of plastics for Funhouse -$125

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