(Topic ID: 64458)

Funhouse!? Club... (Fans welcome)


By mof

7 years ago



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  • 2,478 posts
  • 326 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by pinballinreno
  • Topic is favorited by 156 Pinsiders

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There are 2478 posts in this topic. You are on page 40 of 50.
#1951 8 months ago
Quoted from zerbam:

i used the contact info on their website and got response within a couple of hours

Quoted from Shredso:

My last few emails to Pinbits went unanswered, I thought they went out of business.

It's hit or miss sadly. But they are definitely still in business.

#1952 8 months ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

It's hit or miss sadly. But they are definitely still in business.

It's been miss for me. Maybe they answer if they have the part and ignore if they don't?

#1953 8 months ago
Quoted from Shredso:

My last few emails to Pinbits went unanswered, I thought they went out of business.

They are open, I just got my clear plastics from them.

#1954 8 months ago

Hey Guys, Does anybody have decent schematics to help me with a funhouse trapdoor assembly as im having issues with dissambley and troubleshooting a dodgy trapdoor!

Door is sticky and not functioned correct

#1955 8 months ago

In a word... no. But if the coil fires when it’s supposed to, it probably just needs dismantling, cleaning, reassembling. The coil may need a new sleeve and the mech might be a bit gummed up but it should be obvious when you dissect it

#1956 8 months ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

In a word... no. But if the coil fires when it’s supposed to, it probably just needs dismantling, cleaning, reassembling. The coil may need a new sleeve and the mech might be a bit gummed up but it should be obvious when you dissect it

Thankyou for the reply!

However the only way to dissamble the mech is to drill out the pop rivets of the trap door on topside of playfield, is this correct?

The small "close" coil for the trap door fires but seems weak and im not sure how the mechanism latches to the trap.

#1957 8 months ago
Quoted from rmerlo88:

Thankyou for the reply!
However the only way to dissamble the mech is to drill out the pop rivets of the trap door on topside of playfield, is this correct?
The small "close" coil for the trap door fires but seems weak and im not sure how the mechanism latches to the trap.

I just worked on this on mine. The two rivets at the top (they go through the clear plastic piece) have nuts that hold them in place. I moved the plastic subway out of the way and moved the metal chute to get to the nuts. You need to get the underside mechanism off the door itself (not hard). The door itself has a notch at one end which will do this. Look at the door from the top and it will make sense. Good luck.

#1958 8 months ago
Quoted from schwism:

I just worked on this on mine. The two rivets at the top (they go through the clear plastic piece) have nuts that hold them in place. I moved the plastic subway out of the way and moved the metal chute to get to the nuts. You need to get the underside mechanism off the door itself (not hard). The door itself has a notch at one end which will do this. Look at the door from the top and it will make sense. Good luck.

Ahh!!! Yess I see the two nuts on the underside of the top rivets!

Thankyou! I missed it last time, I will now be able to dismantle the mech and dissect what the hell is going on!

#1959 8 months ago

Can someone please tell me what plugs into the connection circled in red?

Thanks

IMG_7112 (resized).JPG
#1960 8 months ago
Quoted from fossmin:

Can someone please tell me what plugs into the connection circled in red?
Thanks
[quoted image]

Im not sure, I dont see thant connector on my game, is it an audio connector to a Sub or crossover?

Heres a couple pics from my teardown:
20200414_130935 (resized).jpg20200414_131006 (resized).jpg

#1961 8 months ago

Maybe I should have mentioned I have a System 11 audio board. That might make a difference.

Thanks

#1962 8 months ago
Quoted from fossmin:

Maybe I should have mentioned I have a System 11 audio board. That might make a difference.
Thanks

That's an oldie!

There might be some pics on the web.

#1963 8 months ago

Sooooo, what am I missing here?

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#1964 8 months ago

Rubber Pad

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#1965 8 months ago

Ok, thanks. Time to add that to the list.

#1966 8 months ago

Former lurkers, now proud new members! We're so thrilled to be in the cloob!

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#1967 8 months ago
Quoted from Pablito350:

Former lurkers, now proud new members! We're so thrilled to be in the cloob!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Plenty of red in the cab art!! Looks a goodie, congrats, awesome pin is Rudy.

#1968 8 months ago
Quoted from harig:

Rubber Pad
[quoted image]

I love this community. Answers I need, but haven’t even asked for!

#1969 8 months ago
56 (resized).jpg
#1970 8 months ago

So we've had our Funhouse for a few days, and we've determined that Rudy's voice isn't as loud as it should be. After some research it turns out that we have a sound board out of an Addams Family in our machine.

47 (resized).jpg

Apparently Addams Family has two resistors (R23 & R24) that use a 56K ohm resistors instead of 150K ohm resistors that are used on Funhouse. These two resistors control different channels of sound before they go through the amps on the sound board. I verified the color codes of the resistors and they're 56K Ohm.

47s (resized).jpg

A quick order to Amazon for $13 will get me a 900 pcs resistor kit that has the 150K that I need. As soon as it gets here I'll swap them out and report the result here.

Has anyone come across this before, and did swapping R23 & R24 correct it?

55 (resized).jpg

Thanks!

-Paul

#1971 8 months ago

Interesting stuff. And Rudy now looks like Rudy Dasterdly.

#1972 8 months ago
Quoted from Pablito350:

So we've had our Funhouse for a few days, and we've determined that Rudy's voice isn't as loud as it should be. After some research it turns out that we have a sound board out of an Addams Family in our machine.
[quoted image]
Apparently Addams Family has two resistors (R23 & R24) that use a 56K ohm resistors instead of 150K ohm resistors that are used on Funhouse. These two resistors control different channels of sound before they go through the amps on the sound board. I verified the color codes of the resistors and they're 56K Ohm.
[quoted image]
A quick order to Amazon for $13 will get me a 900 pcs resistor kit that has the 150K that I need. As soon as it gets here I'll swap them out and report the result here.
Has anyone come across this before, and did swapping R23 & R24 correct it?
[quoted image]
Thanks!
-Paul

Yes, this has come up before, on RGP over 10 years ago. I tried posting a link but it wasn't working. When I went to RGP and searched for Funhouse resistors it was the first hit.

Boils down to, you already figured it out!

#1973 8 months ago

Anyone have a source for Rudy-specific parts. I need a crank arm, both eyelid plungers, sector gear, and jaw link. I have found a few of the pieces here and there but all. I would love to find new head/jaw/eye plastics but I'm guessing those don't exist. My Rudy is in fair structural shape but needs some help cosmetically. Has anyone painted Rudy? Does the paint hold up?

#1974 8 months ago

I need a crank arm, both eyelid plungers, sector gear, and jaw link.

all of these parts are available at marco

#1975 8 months ago
Quoted from zerbam:

I need a crank arm, both eyelid plungers, sector gear, and jaw link.
all of these parts are available at marco

You're right. I could swear that several of these were out of stock the last time I looked. They have all but one - eyes closed plunger. Said they would have it back in stock soon. Thanks!

#1976 8 months ago

Hi, finalizing some parts on a Funhouse restore, question on this bumper post on left side near the steps shooter. Just bought the correct post and related rubber sleeve from Marco.

Is the rubber bumper sleeve supposed to fit loose on the post so it spins? I have a second funhouse where the same rubber sleeve is loose where it can be spun as well.

Thank you!

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#1977 8 months ago
Quoted from Bravebluerx:

Hi, finalizing some parts on a Funhouse restore, question on this bumper post on left side near the steps shooter. Just bought the correct post and related rubber sleeve from Marco.
Is the rubber bumper sleeve supposed to fit loose on the post so it spins? I have a second funhouse where the same rubber sleeve is loose where it can be spun as well.
Thank you![quoted image]

I don't think a sleeve goes there, I believe that is intended to be bare metal. I think putting a sleeve there will mess with the STEPS plunger.

#1978 8 months ago

Looking at some other funhouse owner pics attached here, the sleeve is present. It is a narrower rubber sleeve so it doesnt interfere with the steps shooting lane. Just wondering if other folks have a sleeve that is tight or can be slightly spun

Quoted from Shredso:

I don't think a sleeve goes there, I believe that is intended to be bare metal. I think putting a sleeve there will mess with the STEPS plunger.

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#1979 8 months ago

I am getting rattles/rejects on the steps ramp quite often and I have a new ramp in there as of about a week ago. Looking at things from a low angle I can certainly see that post rubber causing interference. This game is reasonably new to me (maybe 6 months) so I’m not sure what that post is supposed to have. I put a sleeve on it to help players have some potential to nudge a ball from going out, but if it’s messing with the Steps 50% of the time it will have to go.

#1980 8 months ago

No post rubber.

#1981 8 months ago

Hi DesertT1, one thing to also look at which I ran into during my FH playfield swap is the angle position of the steps shooter rod. If the plunger tip is not straight on to the center or close to center on the ball it can spin it into the side rail and not straight up the steps. Also If the rubber sleeve of that post I referenced is too thick it can stick into the shooter lane too causing the ball to hit it.

Quoted from desertT1:

I am getting rattles/rejects on the steps ramp quite often and I have a new ramp in there as of about a week ago. Looking at things from a low angle I can certainly see that post rubber causing interference. This game is reasonably new to me (maybe 6 months) so I’m not sure what that post is supposed to have. I put a sleeve on it to help players have some potential to nudge a ball from going out, but if it’s messing with the Steps 50% of the time it will have to go.

#1982 8 months ago
Quoted from Shredso:

I don't think a sleeve goes there, I believe that is intended to be bare metal. I think putting a sleeve there will mess with the STEPS plunger.

Definitely no rubber there. By design.

I actually put some heat shrink tubing on this post during my restoration. I hated the clunk of the ball on the bare metal post. But you cannot fit a standard rubber there due to the steps ramp.

#1983 8 months ago
Quoted from Elicash:

Definitely no sleeve there. By design.
I actually put some heat shrink tubing on this post during my restoration. I hated the clunk of the ball on the bare metal post. But you cannot fit a standard rubber there due to the steps ramp.

I use Stern post sleeve there, a little narrower

#1984 8 months ago

Original game, original rubber.

Thin post sleeve goes there.

20200413_163443 (resized).jpg
#1985 8 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Original game, original rubber.
Thin post sleeve goes there.
[quoted image]

The post is offset to allow for a thin sleeve there.

#1987 8 months ago

Nope. Check out the original flyer. No rubber. I think it is a Pat Lawlor thing. He has a couple other games with a post near outlane with no rubber. I believe Dialed In?

Edit: Beat me to it.

flyer (resized).jpg

#1988 8 months ago

The post i went with was #02-4057 and Marco Related sleeve #38-6556 which is slimmer and doesnt impede the lane but spins around the post. I could glue the sleeve to the post if it bothered me. Looks like just as i posted folks confirmed no sleeve on the post from the flyer nice work!

#1989 8 months ago

Meh...it works. Cliffy sleeve + few seconds on the grinder. Doesn't spin around, doesn't interfere with plunger.

15895878950227637326092841968018 (resized).jpg
#1990 8 months ago

Flyer is a pre-production proto.

Rubber was probably taken off during an adjustment phase.

Probably missing the intended rubber when photo was taken.

#1991 8 months ago

I found an old post from RGP. I'm surprised someone here hasn't opened a new one back in the day to put this argument to bed. Maybe we need a separate post, about the post.
https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/rec.games.pinball/OW1OocVb-10

#1992 8 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Flyer is a pre-production proto.
Rubber was probably taken off during an adjustment phase.
Probably missing the intended rubber when photo was taken.

Probably (as in 100% probability) not.

#1993 8 months ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

Probably (as in 100% probability) not.

The proto in the flyer is also missing the small flatrail, and instead, what looks like #6 lane guide posts and a small lane plastic?

Makes for a good clean photo though, and some interesting game play options.

Beautiful game.

As always they made the usual changes from proto to production after sample-game and durability testing.

I do like the idea of a yellow thin post sleeve there, might look cool.

Or as many have seen just remove the rubber, but then you cant nudge into the shooter lane without the rubber, avoiding the outlane.

#1994 8 months ago

Nice find on the google group discussion! Thanks everyone for the info

#1995 8 months ago

From Cliffy’s page for his colored post sleeves
75E5E9C4-8D14-4B6B-A71B-659280DDFE1A (resized).png

#1996 8 months ago
Quoted from Bravebluerx:

From Cliffy’s page for his colored posts too;[quoted image]

I do like the blue !

But the rubber does indeed stick out too much into the shooter lane.

I wonder if its a repro or just a different vendor, it looks like the small flatrail is drilled slightly off.
It should be aligned with the lane guide.

My game has the post way more offset.

You can see in my post #1984 that the post is way within the lane, even with the rubber on it.

Maybe relocate/bend the small flatrail to guide the ball around the rubber on that one.
Definitely a candidate for removing the post sleeve in a pinch.

#1997 8 months ago

I don't have these on my Funhouse, but I'm pretty sure these are slimmer than Cliff's.

Screen Shot 2020-05-16 at 2.52.38 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2020-05-16 at 2.53.19 PM (resized).png
#1998 8 months ago
Quoted from gutz:

Meh...it works. Cliffy sleeve + few seconds on the grinder. Doesn't spin around, doesn't interfere with plunger.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Bravebluerx:

From Cliffy’s page for his colored post sleeves
[quoted image]

Ok

Finally figured out this mystery.

The small flatrail is installed backwards in both of these cases.

My game has never been disassembled or even had the rubber replaced.

My picture on post #1984 clearly shows the small flat rail aligned with the lane guide on the shooter lane side.
Its also installed the reverse of the 2 games posted.

This backwards installation certainly makes a cutout in the ball path allowing the ball to hit the rubber on the post.

So, flip around the small flatrail and problem solved.

#1999 8 months ago

Question about the round jaw gear. Mine was looking pretty beat up so I ordered a replacement from The Pinball Wizard. It’s black as opposed the the stock white. It looks like it is a little too big. The gears jam up and don’t move freely.

Is this typical? Is the Marco version better about this?

#2000 8 months ago
Quoted from schwism:

Question about the round jaw gear. Mine was looking pretty beat up so I ordered a replacement from The Pinball Wizard. It’s black as opposed the the stock white. It looks like it is a little too big. The gears jam up and don’t move freely.
Is this typical? Is the Marco version better about this?

How does the replacement gear look compared to the old one?

It should be exact in all areas.

Otherwise if its the wrong one or you will have to adjust the motor location by reworking the mount.

Sounds like its the wrong gear.

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