(Topic ID: 64458)

Funhouse!? Club... (Fans welcome)

By mof

10 years ago


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There are 5,059 posts in this topic. You are on page 35 of 102.
#1701 4 years ago
Quoted from DonnieDarko:

Maybe this should be the new scary rudy?[quoted image]

cease-this-fuckery-all-the-political-whining-and-fighting-4653608 (resized).pngcease-this-fuckery-all-the-political-whining-and-fighting-4653608 (resized).png
1 week later
#1702 4 years ago

I just acquired a funhouse last weekend. Needs a lot of love!! It has some issues, at turn on it “bongs” 6 times, then when you press the start button it bongs another 5.

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#1703 4 years ago
Quoted from Randyg:

I just acquired a funhouse last weekend. Needs a lot of love!! It has some issues, at turn on it “bongs” 6 times, then when you press the start button it bongs another 5.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Congrats on the pick up. Should clean up pretty well, playfield looks in reasonable shape. Can’t help with the “bongs” sorry.

#1704 4 years ago
Quoted from Randyg:

I just acquired a funhouse last weekend. Needs a lot of love!! It has some issues, at turn on it “bongs” 6 times, then when you press the start button it bongs another 5.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The "bongs" mean the computer system has detected an issue with the machine. it is also known as a credit dot as it informs an operator that there is something wrong with the pin. It shows up with a period after the credits on the display. It should tell you where to start looking when you press the enter button behind the coin door.

I'm sure you already know this but your post was somewhat vague as to its meaning.

#1705 4 years ago

Pre-DCS Sound Board Games.
"Bong" definitions
1 - No issues...enjoy a game.
2 - U9 RAM failure.
3 - U18 ROM failure.
4 - U15 ROM failure.
5 - U14 ROM failure.

#1706 4 years ago
Quoted from Randyg:

I just acquired a funhouse last weekend. Needs a lot of love!! It has some issues, at turn on it “bongs” 6 times, then when you press the start button it bongs another 5.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

You have a beautiful playfield waiting for you under that mylar. Your machine has the typical insert lifting (the white around each insert is the tell tale) caused from bulb heat. Should you choose to remove the mylar (Google freeze spray method) you'll also need to flatten the inserts or the edges of the inserts get beaten to hell.
Instead of reiterating a method in my words, heres an excerpt from RGP from our good pal Cliffy. (Btw, if you LED that machine you'll want to add the GIOCD and LEDOCD boards.
Yes. Use a hair blow dryer or heat shrink gun on low to soften the glue from the bottom. You may be able to push the insert back down with your finger but likely not.

I did a post to RGP about this long ago, pasted here- This is my cold method.

Now place a sheet of wax paper over the insert on top and use a perfectly flat and smooth hunk of hardwood and a hammer. I use a nice smooth piece of oak block that's bigger than the insert by at least 50% and at least 3/4 inch thick. I just did a High Speed and I mean EVERY insert was lifted about 1/16th of an inch and some were even higher! I use a 10 ounce claw hammer (smooth flat faced, never a ball peen!) directly on the hardwood block, squarely over the insert and I whack that sonofab**** but good! WHAM! They get down pretty quick for the most
part but some take repeated beatings Scares the hell out of anyone within hearing distance. My neighbor came running across the court once. Thought I was pissed at the game and was beating it to death WHACK!

Yep it sounds like brute force and it is. I've never done any damage to inserts or playfields though. The hardwood block spreads the impact fairly evenly. Do NOT try this with a soft wood! And here's a tip I learned from my carpenter dad about hammering; wherever your eye is
focused is where the hammer will go, simple as that. Look at the block and swing Scary? You bet! But it works. Once they are down flat flip up the playfield and use some thin CA (super glue) to lock that sucker in place.
(Use this tech tip at your own risk. Your mileage may vary. This poster not responsible for damage done by people who cannot keep their eye on the block "

#1707 4 years ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

You have a beautiful playfield waiting for you under that mylar. Your machine has the typical insert lifting (the white around each insert is the tell tale) caused from bulb heat. Should you choose to remove the mylar (Google freeze spray method) you'll also need to flatten the inserts or the edges of the inserts get beaten to hell.
Instead of reiterating a method in my words, heres an excerpt from RGP from our good pal Cliffy. (Btw, if you LED that machine you'll want to add the GIOCD and LEDOCD boards.
Yes. Use a hair blow dryer or heat shrink gun on low to soften the glue from the bottom. You may be able to push the insert back down with your finger but likely not.
I did a post to RGP about this long ago, pasted here- This is my cold method.
Now place a sheet of wax paper over the insert on top and use a perfectly flat and smooth hunk of hardwood and a hammer. I use a nice smooth piece of oak block that's bigger than the insert by at least 50% and at least 3/4 inch thick. I just did a High Speed and I mean EVERY insert was lifted about 1/16th of an inch and some were even higher! I use a 10 ounce claw hammer (smooth flat faced, never a ball peen!) directly on the hardwood block, squarely over the insert and I whack that sonofab**** but good! WHAM! They get down pretty quick for the most
part but some take repeated beatings Scares the hell out of anyone within hearing distance. My neighbor came running across the court once. Thought I was pissed at the game and was beating it to death WHACK!
Yep it sounds like brute force and it is. I've never done any damage to inserts or playfields though. The hardwood block spreads the impact fairly evenly. Do NOT try this with a soft wood! And here's a tip I learned from my carpenter dad about hammering; wherever your eye is
focused is where the hammer will go, simple as that. Look at the block and swing Scary? You bet! But it works. Once they are down flat flip up the playfield and use some thin CA (super glue) to lock that sucker in place.
(Use this tech tip at your own risk. Your mileage may vary. This poster not responsible for damage done by people who cannot keep their eye on the block "

Can you do this with out taking parts of the playfield?

#1708 4 years ago
Quoted from Toads:

Can you do this with out taking parts of the playfield?

All of this can be done without component removal! Google freeze spray method - remove mylar. Google how to clean old glue residue off playfield.
How to level the inserts was already discussed in my previous thread. Enjoy that beautiful playfield underneath!

1 week later
#1709 4 years ago

I think I like the colored incandescent in the mirror. Everything else is led.

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#1710 4 years ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I think I like the colored incandescent in the mirror. Everything else is led.[quoted image]

I like how yours look. They have more of a Funhouse carnival feel to them. Mine are just frosted colored LEDs.

Where did you get those? Are they colored glass?

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#1712 4 years ago

Please leave those in when you deliver the game to me.

#1713 4 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

I like how yours look. They have more of a Funhouse carnival feel to them. Mine are just frosted colored LEDs.
Where did you get those? Are they colored glass?[quoted image][quoted image]

Buy the proper colored rubber caps and your game looks original again. Problem solved.

#1714 4 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Please leave those in when you deliver the game to me.

Do I get to pick one from your lineup?

#1715 4 years ago

I agree, I really like the look of those colored incandescents. Might be the first and only change I make to mine.

1 week later
#1716 4 years ago
Quoted from dmcinnes:

I’ll give J-B Weld a try then turn to brackets if it doesn’t hold. Thanks for the suggestions all!

Just to close the loop here, I finally tried J-B Weld on Rudy’s head frame and it did not hold. Going to have to see about brackets.

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1 week later
#1717 4 years ago

Does anyone have a list of what bulbs Funhouse uses? I see the lamps sheet in the manual, but that looks like it's just the inserts. I also can't seem to find a page listing the backbox bulbs.

1 week later
#1718 4 years ago

Check this out!!! Tried to take a video but could only figure out how to upload pics, but it’s a board that lights up every bulb of the funhouse sign. It does the old carnival theme patterns and a few other cool patterns too; plus it’s interactive with the game! Just wanted to share

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#1719 4 years ago

That's very interesting... can anyone guide pinballjohn as to how to do a video and post it here?

#1720 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballJon:

Check this out!!! Tried to take a video but could only figure out how to upload pics, but it’s a board that lights up every bulb of the funhouse sign. It does the old carnival theme patterns and a few other cool patterns too; plus it’s interactive with the game! Just wanted to share [quoted image][quoted image]

You can't upload videos, only post links to videos. Put it on YouTube and post the link to it.

#1721 4 years ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

You can't upload videos, only post links to videos. Put it on YouTube and post the link to it.

Got it, thanks!

#1722 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballJon:

Check this out!!! Tried to take a video but could only figure out how to upload pics, but it’s a board that lights up every bulb of the funhouse sign. It does the old carnival theme patterns and a few other cool patterns too; plus it’s interactive with the game! Just wanted to share [quoted image][quoted image]

Where can I get this?

#1723 4 years ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

Where can I get this?

It’s made my Arcade Upkeep. He only made a limited run, but they’re currently on his website

#1724 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballJon:

It’s made my Arcade Upkeep. He only made a limited run, but they’re currently on his website

Thanks! Can you post pics and comment on instillation ?

#1725 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballJon:

It’s made my Arcade Upkeep. He only made a limited run, but they’re currently on his website

Thanks. Which version is this in your video? The M3 or the M3X?

#1726 4 years ago

#1727 4 years ago

That's a super sweet mod, but $300 is a pretty fat chunk of change! I understand that's labor intensive, but he/she should offer a do it yourself kit for those of us that are capable (and cheap) lol

#1728 4 years ago

Hmmmmmmmmm.....I feel like this could be done.

EDIT: ahh, I see. They made a board rather than using the addressable LED's.

I must say this it's a pretty sweet effect, however, I'm thinking addressible LED's and a arduino/pi could accomplish the same thing for far cheaper.

#1729 4 years ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

Thanks! Can you post pics and comment on instillation ?

The installation was pretty straight forward. The instructions are clear and had detailed pictures so I can definitely say it was an easy process. I have the M3X board and am very happy with it! It’s certainly a quality product, no doubt about it.

1 week later
#1730 4 years ago

Anyone know where to find lighted hotdog and popcorn mods for FH?

#1731 4 years ago

I recently installed a new mod into my Fun House pinball machine. The mod which is called Fun House Motion Marquee is created by a pinball company named Arcade Upkeep. The mod version showcased in this video is called the M3X Deluxe Board which is the more expensive model.

Blog Post:
https://pinballsupernova.wordpress.com/2019/11/07/mods-fun-house-motion-marquee-mod-review-and-install-fun-house-pinball-video/

YouTube Video :

Funhouse Motion Marquee (resized).jpgFunhouse Motion Marquee (resized).jpgInstalled (resized).jpgInstalled (resized).jpgLight Pattern 1 (resized).jpgLight Pattern 1 (resized).jpgLight Pattern 2 (resized).jpgLight Pattern 2 (resized).jpgTesting Without Translite (resized).jpgTesting Without Translite (resized).jpg
#1732 4 years ago
Quoted from wiggy07:

I recently installed a new mod into my Fun House pinball machine. The mod which is called Fun House Motion Marquee is created by a pinball company named Arcade Upkeep. The mod version showcased in this video is called the M3X Deluxe Board which is the more expensive model.
Blog Post:
https://pinballsupernova.wordpress.com/2019/11/07/mods-fun-house-motion-marquee-mod-review-and-install-fun-house-pinball-video/
YouTube Video :
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

This looks amazing ! Kind of pricy though as I'd be watching the ball in play rather than the translite .

#1733 4 years ago

That is a very cool mod. I just wish they added a couple extra LEDs to finish the F in Funhouse. It looks like “Junhouse” in the video.

#1734 4 years ago
Quoted from pinster68:

That is a very cool mod. I just wish they added a couple extra LEDs to finish the F in Funhouse. It looks like “Junhouse” in the video.

It really does. I can't un-see that now!

#1735 4 years ago

Looks awesome. A lotta bucks, especially with shipping and the terrible dollar conversion.

#1736 4 years ago
Quoted from pinster68:

That is a very cool mod. I just wish they added a couple extra LEDs to finish the F in Funhouse. It looks like “Junhouse” in the video.

Thanks for watching the video. It could be the angle of the camera or the bulb needs to be bent to be placed in that area you are not seeing the lighting. Every dot in the Funhouse logo has a bulb to lighten it from the back of the translite.

#1737 4 years ago

At that price point, there should also be a board for the bulb lights on top of the ticket booth on the bottom right corner of the translite. I'll make my own, similar to what was done seven years ago with another Funhouse translite.

#1738 4 years ago
Quoted from knobstone:

At that price point, there should also be a board for the bulb lights on top of the ticket booth on the bottom right corner of the translite. I'll make my own, similar to what was done seven years ago with another Funhouse translite.

The flashing bulbs on the bottom right are really cool, but I’m not a fan of the clock. Also, it looks like it does one simple back and forth pattern, whereas the Arcade Upkeep one does multiple patterns and interacts with the game. Two very different comparisons at two different price points (I assume), but it’s all in what someone wants to pay for.

#1739 4 years ago

It is pretty damn cool. The additional colored LED's were a surprise. The price I understand sounds high, but pretty much most mods are made in small quantities and pricey. This is actually pretty advanced as far as mods go. Yes, people could take it as inspiration and make their own cheaper. To be honest, I find this much more interesting than the colored DMD's everyone goes on about.

As for the F, for those that don't own one, if you look at the translite, the F does not have 'lights' on the slash so adding LED's there would not look right.

Now I'm torn..I was considering the mirrored backglass, but I believe those 'lights' are mirrored, so this wouldn't work with it. Might be something to investigate.

#1740 4 years ago
Quoted from knobstone:

At that price point, there should also be a board for the bulb lights on top of the ticket booth on the bottom right corner of the translite. I'll make my own, similar to what was done seven years ago with another Funhouse translite.

Knobstone, thanks for the comments on the video. Nice alternative that you posted. I just read the few comments listed about the mod and also the one left by Zablon. I have to agree with Zablon and PinballJon, this mod seems different than the one you posted. Arcade Upkeep's mod has programmable light patterns, only 30-50 boards were produced, multiple LEDS had to be soldered into the board, multiple prototypes meaning more money was spent just for the creation of the mod, etc. Yes the mod is a bit pricey but the production of the mod is very professional. High quality mod, with years of thought behind it. All that costs money so I am sure Arcade Upkeep wants to make a profit and get back what was invested initially.

I purchased the two Mike D mods (AC/DC and Creature). Those mods were expensive but I know the mods were professionally made with a lot of planning and prototype work behind them.

Just as a side note, I paid full price for the mod and get no kick backs from Arcade Upkeep. I just give my professional (LOL) opinion about the products I review. This mod was well done and that is why I bought the mod with the idea to review it as I do with many of the mods that I purchase. Please let me know if you produce the mod you posted in the video, would like to see how it comes out. Thanks again for the comments.

#1741 4 years ago

Ever seen a Mylar pattern like this? Any idea what’s going on here?

45EA57EF-B462-44D9-A5A9-4CACF2F4182F (resized).jpeg45EA57EF-B462-44D9-A5A9-4CACF2F4182F (resized).jpeg
#1742 4 years ago
Quoted from spblat:

Ever seen a Mylar pattern like this? Any idea what’s going on here?[quoted image]

Looks like the Mylar has been bubbling for a while and the ball had made dimples in it.

#1743 4 years ago
Quoted from spblat:

Ever seen a Mylar pattern like this? Any idea what’s going on here?[quoted image]

Looks like someone heated a bubble with a blowdryer and overdid it a bit...

#1744 4 years ago

Anybody have a spare trap door assembly? My current full resto project is begging for a new one, and this item is proving difficult to find.

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#1745 4 years ago

just putting out here..I have a bunch of stuff from a project i didn't do - new cabinet decals, new backglass artwork, play field , full set original play field plastic set and a complete set of clear ramps. PM (playfield and decals etc are from IPB) thanks Bob

#1746 4 years ago
Quoted from Bc3:

just putting out here..I have a bunch of stuff from a project i didn't do - new cabinet decals, new backglass artwork, play field , full set original play field plastic set and a complete set of clear ramps. PM (playfield and decals etc are from IPB) thanks Bob

PM sent. Interested in the whole lot.
Thanks

#1747 4 years ago
Quoted from bbriese:

Anybody have a spare trap door assembly? My current full resto project is begging for a new one, and this item is proving difficult to find.[quoted image][quoted image]

I would message pinbits, even though their website says sold out they might be able to dig one up for you. Worth a shot.

1 week later
#1748 4 years ago
Quoted from wiggy07:

Review of the Funhouse Pinball Topper
In this video we review and show how to install a FunHouse topper created by Pedretti Gaming. The topper was purchased from Ministry of Pinball who is one of the distributors for the Pedretti Gaming Company.
Blog Post :
https://pinballsupernova.wordpress.com/2019/07/17/mods-funhouse-topper-install-review-and-overview-pedretti-gamings-fun-house-topper-video-install/
YouTube Video :

Hey Guys! Where I can get this Topper is US?

#1749 4 years ago
Quoted from legendpin:

Hey Guys! Where I can get this Topper is US?

Coin taker had them at the York pinball show Reach out to them. If coin taker does not have them reach out to ministry . I live in the US and it was fine for shipping

1 week later
#1750 4 years ago

I introduced a friend to Funhouse last night - a game he heretofore thought was just (and could only be) a video pinball.

One thing he said while playing was that it was virtually impossible for him to read the mirror. That made me realize that, because I have played the game so many times over so many years, I don’t actually ever read the mirror when I’m playing; I just know what feature is lit by its position on the mirror.

But reading the mirror is a legitimate concern for someone new to the game (and now for me since I’ll forever notice it every time I play.)

Has anyone done anything that improves the readability of the mirror? What might help do so? Tone down the brightness of bulbs in the mirror? Aim a spotlight at it? I certainly do not want to somehow “fog it up” as that would make it look more like a sign rather than a mirror.

Thoughts, suggestions, success stories?

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